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Vin de Pays from H & H Bancroft

My current tasting feature, the Beautiful South, showcases the AOC wines of the Languedoc (later Roussillon and Provence). My feature restricts itself to those producers that turn out quality wines of character under appellation regulations, but this is just one of two roads that are available to producers with a mind to quality. Others go down the vin de pays road, either because of the location of the vineyards, or just as likely because they find the appellation regulations too stifling.

Some top vin de pays wines focus on international varieties - Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, for instance. These wines can provide tasty drinking usually at a extraordinarily reasonable price. Others focus on varieties more commonly associated with the wines of the Mediterranean, such as Grenache - both red and white - whereas other seek to work with less well known varieties, such as the lovely white grapes of the Rhône Valley, Marsanne and Rousanne.

The wines detailed below were all tasted courtesy of H & H Bancroft, and are currently listed by them. These are an excellent selection of wines, both from the well known Vin de Pays d'Oc, as well as lesser known wine producing areas such as Vin de Pays de Cessenon and Vin de Pays Catalan. All of these wines would make excellent selections for Christmas parties - a change from the more usual indistinguishable New World wines. I have included prices (per case), including duty and VAT, and have also included wine-searcher links for transparency. For more information contact H & H Bancroft on 0207 232 5453. (16/12/03)

Vin de Pays from H & H Bancroft - Tasting Notes

Tasted in December 2003. Click for stockists.

Run by Bernard Julien, Domaine de Bachellery now comprises over 140 hectares, following the purchase of the nearby estates Domaine de Cabrials and Domaine de Bicarie. There is an interesting range of vin de pays wines to be found here - varieties such as Tempranillo and Gewürztraminer growing comfortably alongside the more usual Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Of the two I tasted I thought the Sauvignon Blanc to be quite lovely.

Domaine de Bachellery 'Cabrials' Sauvignon Blanc Vin de Pays d'Oc 2002: A pale golden hue with the barest hint of green. A lovely nose. Initially it offers up classic varietal aromas of grass and green fruits. Later though it develops a lot more individuality, with smoky, stony nuances, olive oil and green vegetables. Good freshness throughout on the palate, with considerable body and texture, helped no doubt by 13% alcohol. Smoky green flavours, backed up by good grip. This is delightful. I rarely rate this cépage so highly, especially at this price point. Star drinking. 16.5/20 (£59.40)

Domaine de Bachellery 'Cabrials' Cabernet Sauvignon Vin de Pays d'Oc 2002: A moderate colour here. Sweet berry fruit on the nose, with a slightly confected edge. Fairly well rounded plate though, with some noticeable tannins, especially in the finish. The fruit profile is berry and cherry, backed by good acidity. A rush of tannin in the finish. This has more structure than fruit or texture at present, although it may fatten up with a little more time in bottle. Drink now or over the next year. 15.5/20 (£59.40)

The Besinet and Pourthié families run Delta Domaines, a group of six estates led by Domaine du Bosc. There is quality and value to be found here. 

Pierre Besinet 'Le Bòsc' Chardonnay Vin de Pays d'Oc 2002: Quite a vibrant, pale golden wine. A ripe nose, with a touch of melon fruit, and a creamy-buttery edge. The palate is fresh and flavoursome, with ripe melon fruit. It's a touch creamy, but with good grip and fresh acidity. 15.5/20 (£57)

Pierre Besinet 'Le Bòsc' Syrah Vin de Pays d'Oc 2002: A good youthful colour. There are some attractive roasted fruits on the nose, with a perfumed sidekick. Good bitter-sweet fruit flavours on the palate, with a burnt, roasted nuance. There's sufficient texture and good structure in the mouth. Plenty of tannin in the finish. 15/20 (£57)

Here Frederic Roger turns out a range of good value vin de pays.

L'Enclos Domèque Chardonnay Vin de Pays d'Oc 2002: A pale golden wine. Good character on the nose, with the up-front tropical fruit profiles tempered with an interesting oatmealy edge. Plenty of weight on entry, with a fat, rich texture throughout the midpalate. What it lacks in acidity it makes up for with astringent grip. More citrus as well as tropical character on the palate. 15/20 (£63)

An up-and-coming Roussillon estate purchased by Pascal Verhaeghe, best known for his tenure of Château du Cedre in Cahors, but he has also enjoyed success in Roussillon, at Domaine Marcevol. The top white vin de pays 'Can Felix' is an unexpected delight.

Predal-Verhaeghe 'Can Felix' Vin de Pays Catalan 2001: A good colour here, a rich straw-gold. On the nose, there are pine kernels and citrus fruits, with aromatic notes of honeysuckle and acacia. A lovely weight on the palate, combined with a rich texture, makes quite an impression. A healthy 14.5% alcohol helps as well! This is balanced by a wealth of refreshing, slightly perfumed, acidic stone fruit. Delicious, savoury stuff. 16.5/20 (£90)

Denois buys in high quality grapes and makes, quite simply, high quality wine. The approach is very modern, but the result, with limited use of oak, is delightful. The Grande Cuvée range includes some lovely wines, using the classic varieties of the Languedoc and the Rhône.

Denois Grande Cuvée Vin de Pays d'Oc 2001: A blend dominated by Rousanne and Marsanne, with Chardonnay and Grenache Blanc. A pale, shimmering gold. Honey and bread, minerals and oatmeal on the nose. This is lovely. A full, rich character on the palate. It has grippy structure, fresh acidity and bags of individual flavour. Delicious. 16.5/20 (£117)

No surprises at the quality to be found here - proprietor Gerard Bergasse hobnobs with Crozes-Hermitage superstar Alain Graillot. The wines include a number of Saint Chinian cuvées as well as vin de pays.

Domaine de Viranel Trilogie Vin de Pays de Cessenon 2001: A good healthy colour. Plenty of promise on the nose, which has piles of burnt, sweet, caramelised Grenache cherry fruit, with notes of thyme. On the palate there are soft tannins and strong acidity, but a sweet rounded texture and plenty of mouthfeel. Very Grenache dominate, with notes of garrigue herbs alongside. Nice, rustic, slightly chewy fruit. 15/20 (£75)