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Wines of New Zealand from Hellion Wines

One of the more interesting news stories I have read during the last year concerned a prediction from consultant Richard Smart delivered at the first ever World Sauvignon Congress in Graz, Austria, in August 2008. Discussing the variety's potential in northern Europe, Smart opined that a continued rise in average temperatures would open up new regions to Sauvignon Blanc, with a particular nod given to both England and Denmark. At first glance the concept may seem ridiculous, but his comments are in my opinion certainly worthy of some attention. After all, the wine industry has a strong history of change; it is only a decade or two since the English wine scene was seemingly dominated by charming eccentrics and enthusiastic amateurs planting German hybrids in polytunnels. As an 'industry' it was worthy of ridicule; not so today, though. English wines are of increasingly good quality, led perhaps by sparkling styles made exclusively using Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

There are parallels with this story in New Zealand, a country once considered too chilly for viticulture where many planted Müller-Thurgau rather than more noble varieties. Then came success with Sauvignon Blanc, and to a lesser extent Chardonnay and other white varieties, and it was acknowledged by the wine industry and wine writers that some of these wines were excellent.....but of course it was too cold for reds, they said. And now in more recent years we see not only excellent Pinot Noir but also a handful of delightful Bordeaux-style blends and even Syrah. And once again I have been fortunate enough to take another small peek at some of these wines courtesy of Jim Ledwith of Hellion Wines (07765 47 22 63). And, tellingly, these samples included not only Sauvignon Blanc, which I am sure will be associated with New Zealand for many centuries yet, but also examples of all of the other varieties and blends mentioned above.

The Hellion Wine prices are included in brackets, and for transparency I have links to wine-searcher also. As usual I would like to make clear that I have no commercial connection or deal with Jim regarding these wines. (14/1/09)

Wines of New Zealand from Hellion Wines - Tasting Notes

Tasted in January 2009. Click to locate stockists.

Waipara Springs Sauvignon Blanc (Canterbury) 2008: As with last year this has been fermented in stainless steel, and bottled under stelvin. This is a very pale wine, with a huge and characterful nose. There is a lot of green fruit character, with asparagus, yellow and green capsicums, but their is also a feel of fine minerality. The palate has depth and a lovely textural quality, in fact it feels almost almost chewy at times. Certainly this is rich, mouth-filling, clean and steely in definition, yet ripe and rich in body and substance. Lots of ripe pepper at the finish. Overall a wine possessing delicious weight, great acidity and really stunning quality. A fine, gentle, narrow spear of acidity just at the fore keeps it all fresh. Lovely. 17.5+/20 (£9.99)

Clearview Estate Reserve Chardonnay (Hawke's Bay) 2007: Bottled under stelvin. The fruit here is sourced from 20-year-old vines plus some newer plantings. At harvest there was some skin contact for 40% of the wine, and half was fermented in oak, mostly French. On the nose it is delightfully aromatic, with tropical fruits, nuances of mango, pineapple and stone fruits, but very much in a punchy rather than blowsy fashion. It has a lemony edge too. The palate has good grip, good fruit and good substance, and despite the fermentation it does not have overpowering oak character. Rich but not overdone, with nice acidity and a good balance, this wine has some vigour. Towards the end it has richer notes, with a little butterscotch oak note after all, but it is certainly subtler than I expected. Very fresh and more than a touch savoury, with some length too, and a slightly bitter note which I really like. This is in my opinion one of the best New World Chardonnays to have crossed my palate in a long time. 17+/20 (£24.99)

Mondillo Pinot Noir (Central Otago) 2006: Hand harvested, and aged in French oak for 12 months, and bottled under stelvin. A well-coloured, ruby-cherry appearance in the glass, and on the nose plenty of macerated cherries mixed with will polished oak. The palate is rich, but well defined and fairly fresh, although here it does display that oakiness in a clear fashion. nevertheless a rather elegant layer of fruit, fresh and framed by firm acidity, with not a hint of blowsy, over-ripe fruit to be seen. really rather firm and with a touch of grip on the finish, provided by a flurry of tannins. Attractive, firm, but at present definitely marked by oak too. Very drinkable taking that into account, and I suspect it will improve in the short-term too as the oak integrates. That crisply upright fruit is what makes it so good to drink. 17-17.5+/20 (£24.99)

Waipara Springs Premo Pinot Noir (Waipara) 2007: Hand harvested, aged in French oak for 18 months, and bottled under stelvin. This darkly coloured wine has an intense nose, with bright and zingy cherry fruit counterbalanced by oak-derived aromas of smoke, charcoal and coffee grounds, along with deeper Pinot characteristics, little nuances of beetroot, thyme, chocolate and plum. The palate reflects this two-pronged beginning, with a creamy-round layer of fruit immediately offset by a stab of laser-like acidity which only builds through the midpalate, cutting through all the smoky residue, oaky tannin. This is an impressive wine, one of deep concentration and character rather than lifted or ethereal. Nevertheless it gives bags of pleasure. 17.5+/20 (£14.99)

Clearview Estate Enigma (Hawke's Bay) 2006: This is a Merlot dominated blend, with Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc making the balance. A vibrant and glossy appearance in the glass, dark and youthful, with a bright, cherry-pink rim. On the nose rather stylishly reserved fruit, cranberry and smoke, lightly charcoaly tar and plum. A deliciously elegant palate, starting off lean, then showing weight and texture through the midpalate, although it is never fat or overdone, and it never loses the lean edge that keeps it bright, fresh and slightly sour on the palate. It has, to my palate, a delicious composition. Ripe fruit lies underneath it all, ripe and well hidden tannins, and attractive although muted acidity. A lovely, violet-tinged wine which has a very classic stance. A touch savoury at the finish, and a good length too. Very good indeed. 17+/20 (£25.99)

The Aurora Vineyard Syrah (Bendigo) 2007: Although it doesn't seem that long since I first encountered the 2006 vintage, it was in fact October 2007, so it is a pleasure to now be presented with the 2007 vintage. The fruit starts off very sweet and bright here, and the wine needs a little air contact to settle down into something more approachable. But it keeps its bright and primary nose of blackberry crumble, spiced with black pepper. On the palate it has some substance at first, before displaying a more overt structure in the midpalate; there is firm, rather savage acidity, with a little green apple skin character, before a sappy-sour finish. There is some good character here, and plenty of life. Pepper and plums, in a punchy frame. I found the previous vintage rather more harmonious and flattering, but this is a good wine all the same. 16+/20 (£16.99)