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Wines of New Zealand from Hellion Wines

The wines of New Zealand continue their ever-forward march; figures released in 2005 showed exports to be rocketing. An astonishing 55% increase overall saw neighbouring Australia take a huge quantity, as well as the USA and, of course, the UK, where these wines have been popular for many years now. And although many of these wines pouring out of New Zealand are the instantly recognisable Sauvignon Blanc, the big news is that many are not. The red wines are now increasingly available, and the quality can be exceedingly high. New Zealand winemakers are carving out a reputation for their country as a valuable source of flavoursome, structured and balanced wines, especially Pinot Noir from Central Otago and Marlborough, but also for Bordeaux blends. Below is just such a selection of wines from some of New Zealand's leading producers, from the portfolio of Hellion Wines (07765 47 22 63), a independent merchant operating in Lancashire. The three Pinot Noirs, pictured above, were fascinating to taste, and were of very high quality indeed. Jim's prices are included in brackets, and for transparency I have links to wine-searcher here also. The usual disclaimer; I write about wine, I don't sell it. I have no commercial connection or dealing with Jim regarding these wines. (26/7/06)

Wines of New Zealand from Hellion Wines - Tasting Notes

Tasted in July 2006. Click to locate stockists:

Waipara Springs Sauvignon Blanc (Canterbury) 2005: A 50/50 blend of estate fruit, partly fermented in used oak, and fruit purchased from a local grower, fermented in stainless steel. Bottled under Stelvin screwcap. An appealing nose, restrained rather than the usual flirty exuberance, rather grassy, with notes of capsicum and a creamy-mineral-talc streak. Lovely, fresh, lively fruit-dominated palate, mouthfilling, with all the green fruits backed up by crisp acidity. A well defined array of flavours, nicely framed by an appropriate fresh but weighty, cushioning texture displayed through the midpalate. A very good example of the style. For current drinking. 16.5/20 (£8.95)

Waipara Springs Riesling (Canterbury) 2004: Fermented in stainless steel, arrested to retain a little residual sugar, although on tasting this is sufficient to embody the wine with texture rather than obviously discernible sweetness. Bottled under Stelvin screwcap. Quite fine fruit on the nose, ripe rather Autumnal apple aromas, with lime and lemongrass on the nose. Very nicely defined palate, precise and crisp, opening out on the midpalate, although always showing a steely, reserved, lime fruit character. Good acidity; just a little body and tangibility on the finish, probably based on the residual sugar. Quite fine. I would drink this now, but no doubt it will keep very well for a few years. 17/20 (£8.95)

Waipara Springs Pinot Noir Premo (Canterbury) 2004: Made from fruit sourced from the Waipara Springs Estate vineyard, fermented and aged in French oak (20% new) for ten months. Bottled under Stelvin screwcap. Gorgeous colour, a vibrant cherry red, and a divine nose; at first it shows mainly fruit-driven characteristics, cherry and strawberry, but with a little time in the glass it reveals a complex array of chocolate and animal fur, with deeper, darker, ripe black cherry and blackcurrant aromas. And there is a little oak still evident as well. A great vibrancy on the palate, with fresh, acid-framed summer fruits, a rounded, velvety texture and fine extract. A warm, persistent finish rounds it off. This is simply excellent. Drink now, or cellar short-term. 18.5+/20 (£13.50)

Ra Nui Wairau Valley Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) 2005: A single vineyard wine, from the Roughan-Lee vineyard near Renwick, hand harvested in April 2005. Bottled under Stelvin screwcap. A crystal clear hue, with just a tinge of pale, pale, green straw. A quite classic nose, showing notes of gooseberry and grass, and these carry through onto the palate, where they mix very well with more tropical, citrus characteristics. Deliciously fresh acidity, which very nicely counterbalances the exuberant flavour and the alcohol, which is considerable at 13.8%, although this isn't blatantly discernible on the palate. In fact it may contribute to the big, characterful presence on the palate. Overall, very good. 17/20 (£8.95)

Ra Nui Wairau Valley Pinot Noir (Marlborough) 2005: A single vineyard wine, from the Baldy vineyard near Blenheim, hand harvested in April 2005. Bottled under Stelvin screwcap. A very dark, black cherry hue. The nose has a great vibrancy, with a huge depth of cherry fruit, and with little crunchy strawberry and raspberry elements too. In the background there lies a slightly meaty, furry mushroom complexity. Vivacious strawberry fruit on the palate, nicely extracted, weighty and solid, but with very crisp, youthful acidity providing a piercing freshness, carrying it all along. There is a slightly bitter, really rather welcome, cherry stone and pepper edge to it as well, which copes with food admirably. Even a little length on the finish. Very good. 17.5+/20 (£9.95)

Lowburn Ferry Skeleton Creek Pinot Noir (Central Otago) 2004: A tiny but high quality operation in Central Otago. A single vineyard wine (sourced from a different site to the 2003 vintage), and only 100 cases produced in this vintage. Bottled under Stelvin screwcap. A dark hue on inspection, slightly earthy, oxblood tones. A glorious nose, dark and smoky, with complex chocolate, paprika and meaty characteristics. The palate is packed with interest, with a quite full, rich, velvety yet slightly plump and welcoming texture underpinned by a seam of fine tannins and good acidity. A lovely intertwining of grippy structure and finesse here, carrying some gorgeous fruit and subtle notes of crème brulee. This is wonderful. Drink now, but will cellar nicely for a few years. 18.5+/20 For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. (£12.95)

Redmetal Vineyards Merlot Cabernet Franc (Hawkes Bay) 2004: Bottled under a twin-top cork. A fairly dense wine with a vivacious cherry red hue. More ready to immediately please on the nose than the basket pressed cuvée, which took a little while to open up, showing some perfumed, smoky plum alongside a little cherry, sweet tobacco and a good presence of stony minerals as well. Nice, relaxed body on entry, showing a firmer structure through the midpalate, but with appealing freshness and balance. Lovely fruit flavours here and through onto the finish. Has a grippy undercurrent, just breaking the surface on the finish, that makes this good with food, but a warm, caressing texture that makes it easy to drink solo as well. Very nice style indeed. For drinking now or short-term cellaring. 16+/20 (£8.95)

Redmetal Vineyards Basket Pressed Merlot Cabernet Franc (Hawkes Bay) 2004: This is in fact 95% Merlot, with just a 5% dollop of Cabernet Franc. The thing that appeals to me about this wine is, as with the 2003 tasted last year, the absolute restraint evident. There is an overarching minerality which seeps into every aspect of the wine, not quite dominating the nose which, after being initially rather tightly wound, relaxes after an hour or two in decanter to reveal fine plum, tobacco, chocolate and red cherry fruit with a little note of Dundee cake. The palate is quite firmly structured, although with a rounded, almost plump and almost seamless supporting texture. There are soft tannins, which coat the mouth on the endpalate, and a lovely, ripe extract. My only negative comment is that there is a quickly fading finish, but overall this wine is quite fine for drinking now, and shows clear potential for the cellar. 17+/20 (£13.95)