Ruggeri Argeo Prosecco Brut NV: A very pale wine, a sweet herby nose, with a stony-chalky minerality. Very dry on the palate, a fine herby-sweet style, but fairly dry despite that. A full-on but clean fruit character with a fun, fruity feel to it. 15.5/20

Ruggeri Prosecco Brut Quartese NV: Quite a grippy style here, minerally too. Lots of substance on the palate, with a minerally white fruit character. Broad and fresh, gently composed with some attractive appeal. 16/20

Ruggeri Prosecco Giallo Oro NV: A very firm nose here, stony, white rocks, suggestive of a very dry style. A lovely definition on the palate, stony lemon-citrus fruits, firm and indeed very dry. Its structure and substance moves it more into a category demanding food rather than a summer aperitif. The least pricy bottling and yet one of my favourites in this line-up. 16.5/20

Ruggeri Prosecco Riserva Giustino Bisol 2008: Sourced from a favourable hilltop position. Rather a broader sense of fruit on the nose, more expressive, white and yellow-gold fruits. Quite fleshy on the palate, but with a good chalky-volcanic minerality too. Indeed it is very broad, very attractive but with good depth. 16/20

Ruggeri Prosecco Santo Stefano NV: A single-vineyard wine, a small hillside site. Residual sugar 26 g/l. Creamed yellow fruit on the nose, fresh and broad, with a rather flashy touch from that residual sugar. A good breadth as suggested on the nose, and a nice balance of sugar and acidity. Altogether a very well-composed wine. 16.5+/20

Ruggeri Brut di Pinot Nero Rosé NV: Isabella Bisol explained how rosé wines are distinct from those made under the Prosecco DOC (which are of course made from Prosecco, so shouldn't be rosé). Residual sugar 10 g/l. This particular example has a faint pink colour, although the hue itself is quite bright. Not so expressive on the nose, but clean on the palate, firm too. A rather green style of fruit, vibrant, with a crisply fresh finish. 15/20

Anselmi San Vincenzo 2009: This wine made from Garganega has a fresh and lively nose, with a smoky minerality. The palate has a rather light feel, lean and steely, crisp and well-framed, with great acids and a lovely structure. Good wine, with vigour and a really appealing life. 16/20

Anselmi Capitel Foscarino 2008: From volcanic soils, this has an intensely minerally nose, crisp and stylish. A fine palate, broader and powerful yet fresher and more lively than the San Vincenzo. Good acidity, lovely minerality, this has a fabulous substance. 16.5+/20

Anselmi Capitel Croce 2007: This is from limestone soils, and after fermentation it is finished off in barrel. The character on the nose is more restrained, lightly honeyed. A firm and polished style on the palate, quite tight though, but substantial, overall very good. 16.5+/20

Anselmi Realda 2005: This is made from Cabernet Sauvignon. A surprisingly gamey nose, with a very warm, soft-focus feel to it. There are some appealing aromatic elements coming off the palate, the fruit showing a chalky edge here, the structure a soft-edged grip showing more through the finish. Interesting. 14/20

Anselmi I Capitelli 2006: The fruit for this sweet cuvée is dried for four months before fermentation. A golden hue, minerally with a savoury yet honeycomb character. On the palate, good acidity, lots of substance, creamy with very sweet fruit in a dried, pastille-like style. Hints of golden plum, savoury-bitter elements too. Good substance and balance here. 17.5+/20

Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2008: Fermented in steel, made - obviously - from Vernaccia. This exceedingly pale almost water-clear wine has a clean but vibrant and expressive nose. The palate is quite full and broad, although with a rather firm shell. Surprisingly despite the nose not a lot of character here. Good grip though. 14/20

Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva 2008: Here riserva indicates oak, the fermentation in medium-toast oak, half new and half used, followed by 12 months in oak before bottling. This seems like a heavy application of wood for such a delicate variety and indeed the nose smells of nothing but oak. The palate has a moderate texture at best, a rather hollowed-out substance and lots of oak. I don't think Vernaccia has the flesh for this sort of treatment. 13/20

Belguardo Vermentino di Maremma Toscana 2008: A small percentage of this is vinified in oak, otherwise it is all in steel. Aromatic and light-golden fruits on the nose. A freshly styled palate, rather unfocused although with a firm shell around light-fruit character. A dry grip. This may come together with time. 14.5+/20

Belguardo Bronzone Morellino di Scansano 2006: This is 100% Sangiovese. Sweet and intense fruit here, although it is still showing some oak. The palate has rich fruit but rather ill-defined edges, and grippy tannins with similarly soft edges. This needs some time in bottle to firm up, but could be good with time. 15.5+/20

Mazzei Poggio alla Badiola IGT Toscana 2007: This is a blend of Sangiovese (70%) and Merlot (30%), sourced from six different vineyards. Nice forward fruit on the nose, slightly smoky and plummy in style, with a soft palate. Dry, rounded at the edges, but a little more lean in the midpalate. Grippy finish. 15+/20

Mazzei Ser Lapo Chianti Classico Riserva 2006: This is 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot. This is distinguished from the Castello de Fonterutoli cuvée by site as this comes from two distinct vineyards. A slightly gamey style on the nose here, open and expressive. The palate has a lovely depth, grippy with supple fruit laid over the top. Gentle, slightly aromatic style. Good. Needs 2-3 years. 16.5+/20

Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2007: This is 90% Sangiovese, from any number of the 36 separate clones the Mazzei family have in their vineyards, the remaining 10% being Colorino, Malvasia, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Restrained smoky fruit on the nose, not very expressive. Good fruit style on the palate, still youthful and unintegrated but the substance, grip and acidity is there. A good style. Gentle, supple, fine grip. Potential here, but needs 2-3 years. 16.5+/20

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2006: This is made from fruit sourced from across all the Mazzei vineyards. A great depth of fruit on the nose here, very pure, with an intense and dark style. Soft and rather creamy on the palate, obviously young, but with a good composition. Midpalate grip, not showing overt oak despite its youth, through to lots of grip in the finish. Excellent potential here. 18+/20

Ridgeview Merret Bloomsbury 2007: A very clean nose as always here, with lean fruit. Softly styled on the palate, with a soft mousse alongside. A good substance to the style on the palate, open and youthful though, with good stony fruit on the finish. There is a little length here too. Good wine. 16.5+/20

Peller Family Estates Ice Cuvée NV: This is a rather conventional sparkling blend to start with, 65% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay, but surprisingly there is 15% Vidal Icewine, and the dosage is also using icewine. A smoky nose and flashy style, not overtly sweet but certainly a sugar-influenced character. A good mousse, lively, lots of candied and crystalline fruits. Sweet, with good acidity, this is certainly an interesting wine. 15.5/20

Peller Family Estates Vidal Icewine 2007: An intense, sweet crystalline fruit with notes of oranges. Balanced, creamy, more oranges on the palate swirled with praline richness. There is a savoury edge to it providing some interest, but also intense sweet character, like marmalade. Full and fat, and it doesn't possess the vibrant acidity I normally associate with the icewine style. Nevertheless, certainly an admirable effort. 17/20

Peller Family Estates Riesling Icewine 2007: Crystalline intensity on the nose here, citrus fruits with a touch of marmalade. Vibrant and fresh, vivacious, with a moderate acid balance. Full and fresh, and impressive style, with a well-integrated presence on the palate. Another admirable effort. 17/20

Peller Family Estates Cabernet Franc Icewine 2007: An interesting dusty-smoky, pale-red hue here. There is smokiness in terms of aroma too, soft red fruits with a crystalline style. Full and substantial on the palate, sweet and broad, with a good grippy substance underneath. It has some of the structural elements of a traditional red wine, but with plenty of sweet, tingling elements in the finish. Certainly an interesting experience. 16.5+/20