Henriot Brut Souverain NV: The base vintage is 2005 here, and the assemblage typically 45% Chardonnay and 55% Pinot Noir and Meunier. Reserve wines account for 30% of the blend, and the wine spends three years on its lees. Lemon-tinged minerally fruit on the nose, and a supple style on the palate. Quite ripe in form. Touched by biscuit and apple, gently creamed. Good grip and acid and mousse here, good substance too. A very complete package. 17/20

Henriot Blanc de Blancs NV: This cuvée accounts for 10% of the house's output, and in this instance is based on the 2004 vintage. It includes 40% reserve wines, and has seen four years on its lees. A fresh and stony style on the nose. with faintly crystalline fruit. A softer, slightly more fleshy style than the straight non-vintage, with honey and nutty elements coming from the reserve wines. A very gentle mousse. A really admirable style here. 17.5+/20

Henriot Brut Rosé NV: As with the straight non-vintage, the base vintage is 2005 here, and the assemblage typically 45% Chardonnay and 55% Pinot Noir and Meunier, but with the addition of 10% still Pinot Noir from Mailly. Reserve wines account for 30% again, and the wine spends three years on its lees. A peachy hue in the glass, fresh with creamed fruit and bitter raspberry. Precise but gentle mousse, a nice grippy style. Very good. 16.5/20

Henriot 1996: This is 52% Pinot Noir and 48% Chardonnay, no Pinot Meunier at this level. Mostly grand cru, but does have a little premier cru in the mix. Disgorged in 2006. Crunchy honeycomb on the nose here, Brazil nuts, roasted apple and caramel, clearly an evolving wine. Still very fresh though, with a sappy-sour feel to the fruit and a tighter finish. Very good indeed. 18+/20

Henriot Cuvée des Enchanteleurs 1996: This is 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay, more Pinot-heavy than is usual for Enchanteleurs, 100% grand cru, sourced from six villages. Unusually this cuvée is not put into bottle for the second fermentation until a year after the vintage, to improve the quality of the blending process. Disgorged in 2006. Quite tight on the nose, but it is a freshly opened bottle. More honeyed notes with time, attractive, broad, elegant and then quite nutty style. Quite deep, with an oxidative character (despite what must be eight years on the lees) with notes of polished wood and nut. Evolved, bold but elegant, structured, with nicely integrated acidity. Just a touch fat too. This is still very youthful in terms of structure, but it will drink well soon I think. 18-18.5+/20

Henriot Demi-Sec NV: Not a commonly shown cuvée, and I don't think production amounts to a large volume. The base vintage is 2005, 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, with 30 g/l residual sugar. Golden yellow fruits, fat and smoky, minerally too, although there is also a trace of sulphur in the background too. Lovely style on the palate, soft praline notes, creamy richness, full and broad. This is impressive - a demi-sec I actually like, with a full mouth-feel rather than simple sweetness. 16.5+/20

Trimbach Pinot Blanc 2007: This is in fact 30% Pinot Blanc and 70% Auxerrois (as in Alsace Pinot Blanc may be used as an umbrella-term for these two varieties as well as Pinot Gris and even Pinot Noir). A pale to clear hue. Cleanly herby and youthful on the nose, soft and supple on the palate, full with a low acid feel to it. Nice example of the style. 14.5/20

Trimbach Riesling 2008: A young wine, but from a vintage described as "close to 1990 in terms of structure" by Jean Trimbach. Chalky and lightly herby on the nose, fresh and certainly more defined than the Pinot Blanc. Supple and gentle fruit on the palate, clean and even with a touch of grip. A good, serviceable, straightforward wine. 15/20

Trimbach Riesling Reserve 2007: From 40 year-old vines on clay-limestone terroir in Ribeauville. A definite step up from the previous cuvée here, with a strong showing of honeyed fruit on the nose, although some of this may be the vintage of course. Supple and quite substantial on the palate, more body here, structured too. Altogether more impressive, this would do well in the cellar for a few years. 16+/20

Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile 2004: Sourced from grands crus Geisberg and Osterberg, says Jean Trimbach, the vines having an average age of 50 years, with the oldest up to 70. A bright and fresh nose here, limes and minerals in abundance, with a well-balanced and elegant substance. A grainy depth, supple and with plenty of appeal for the future. Excellent potential here. 18.5+/20

Trimbach Pinot Gris Réserve 2006: Smoke and minerals here, certainly some attractive fruit. On the palate, a lovely, broad and supple flavour, with an attractively soft minerality to match that noted on the nose. Fleshy and yet quite dry, this has a very appealing style and I think it should be quite popular. 16/20

Trimbach Pinot Gris Réserve Personelle 2002: This is sourced from grand cru Osterberg. The aromas here are wonderful and evocative, kicking off with honey, then cream, then orange peel. A substantial palate, creamed fruit, fleshy and balanced. It has a bitter grip to it which I like. Overall broad, defined and very impressive. 17.5+/20

Trimbach Gewurztraminer 2007: This is the entry-level for this variety, and it has a very typical style on the nose, a soapy perfume that sings Gewurztraminer which I don't find immediately appealing. The palate is pretty nice though, not overly blowsy, with a welcome grip to it. Certainly very feminine though, and heavily perfumed. 14.5/20

Trimbach Gewurztraminer Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre 2004: Sourced from grand cru Osterberg, the first vintage of this for a few years, as there was no 2002 or 2003. Beautiful white fruit on the nose here, reserved and well-framed, a world away from the blowsy entry-level wine. The palate is supple and stylish, with a gentle but certain structure. Well-framed, straight, although with a creamed fruit softness. A velvety composition with a touch of residual sugar. Lovely. 17.5+/20

Trimbach Gewurztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles 2001: Residual sugar 100 g/l here. Sourced from grand cru Osterberg. Honeyed stone and minerality here, lovely sweetness, golden fruits. It doesn't have an overt Gewurztraminer perfume; there are some notes of rose petals but also an appealing savoury tone in the background. A fine and broad palate, a sweet substance, lots of grip too though. Firm and very stylish. Delicious. 18+/20

Yves Cuilleron Viognier VdP des Collines Rhodaniennes 2009: Not yet bottled. 100% Viognier, half fermented in steel and half in old barrels. Very floral on the nose, perfumed, with a chalky sweetness. A softly-styled palate, some gentle grip to it, with a hint of pine kernels. More taut in the finish, quite spicy here too. There is structure to it but it is very unintegrated at present. Needs a little time to come together I think. 15-16+/20

Yves Cuilleron Condrieu La Petite Côte 2008: Fermented in old barrels, bottled June 2009. A wonderfully expressive nose, with hints of honeycomb, the scents of lilac, with sweet fruit reminiscent of tangerine and peach. Supple, nicely styled, good substance, gentle but defined. A spicy grip, good acids, evocative aromatics, and overall very fine. 17+/20

Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Les Chaillets Vieilles Vignes 2008: Sourced from vines aged between 30 and 60 years, this sees one-third new oak, the rest older, but fermentation is entirely in wood. A denser wine, seemingly more withdrawn, lilac again, pine kernels, apricots. A rather warm feel to it, but still very well defined. Some good substance to it, a really nice presence overall. An excellent composition, and good length too. 17.5+/20

Yves Cuilleron St Joseph Les Pierres Sèches 2007: Fermented in steel and after a couple of weeks into old oak for 18 months. Sweet Syrah fruit on the nose here, fresh and slightly smoky, although with a touch of rubber. Clean, well-framed, supple and light-footed body. Fresh fruit, a good stony lift to it, just a touch more gamey through into the finish. An attractive wine. 16.5+/20

Yves Cuilleron Côte Rôtie Bassenon 2006: Fermented in steel and after a couple of weeks into oak, 50% new, for 18 months. Includes 10% Viognier. There is a matt hue developing here already, and the nose is gamey with notes of roasted cherry fruit. Supple fruit on the palate, plenty of substance underneath though. A softly composed finish, ripe tannins, quite grippy, with firm structure to the finish. Seems quite open and evolved in some respects though. Good. 17+/20

Domaine de la Janasse Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2008: Mostly Grenache Blanc, but also Roussanne, Viognier and Bourboulenc. Fermented in steel. A very clear, transparent appearance, with a nose of paper, stone and green herbs. Very typical style on the palate, soft, supple, clean, with a nice grip. Gentle substance and a nice grippy finish. 15+/20

Domaine de la Janasse Viognier VdP de la Principauté d'Orange 2008: This is 30% fermented in oak, then aged for six months. Pale and lacking expression on the nose, rather papery. A nice substance on the palate though, with tangerine and peach fruit. Rather light-footed, with a good tingling seam of acidity. An appealing wine. 15.5/20

Domaine de la Janasse Côtes du Rhône 2008: This is mostly Grenache with Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsaut and Carignan. A clean hue. A very gamey style on the nose, sweet cherry, nicely styled and supple. Good Grenache character, softly structured, quite a stylish presence of fruit. Good character. 16/20

Domaine de la Janasse Terre d'Argile 2008: A blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache, one-third of each. A fairly typical nose here, sweet cherry and glossy fruit, very reminiscent of a Châteauneuf in terms of style. A nice, appealing character on the palate, fresh and balanced, not over-the-top. A supple tannic grip, and a good fruit substance. Could be good value. 16+/20

Domaine de la Janasse Terre de Bussière VdP de la Principauté d'Orange 2006: This vin de pays cuvée is 40% Syrah, 40% Mourvèdre, 10% Grenache and 10% Cabernet Franc. A surprisingly maturing hue here, with liquorice fruit and smoke on the nose. Supple and grippy, quite tannic still, with a nice substance too. Spicy-gamey fruit. Despite the style I can't see it going anywhere from here, but it certainly has some appeal at present. 15/20

Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Tradition 2008: This is 70% Grenache and 15% each Syrah and Mourvèdre. Not that expressive on the nose, although it does relax into a youthful liquorice and cherry character. Supple fruit on the palate, with a rather confit style. Rather grippy too, to say the least. Good but it does have a very typical style of fruit that doesn't thoroughly appeal. 16.5+/20

Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 2008: This cuvée is 70% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre, with 10% Syrah, the vines aged 80-100 years. Ripe, with smoky cherry fruit. A good supple quality, perhaps a touch more savoury than the other wines here. A good grip and structure to it, lots of tannins, and a less confit style of fruit here too. Still a very big wine though, with a very full-on character. Good. 17+/20

Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Chaupin 2005: This cuvée is 100% Grenache and comes from a single vineyard which Isabelle Sabon describes as having colder soils which do better in warmer vintages. The nose has the scent of charred and smoky wood, charcoal even, with a sweet, raisined and pruney style of fruit. A big sweet and creamy texture, with liquorice and cough mixture alongside the baked fruit. This doesn't appeal to me. 14.5/20

Domaine la Roquète Châteauneuf du Pape 2005: Stony cherry fruit and a touch of tobacco on the nose here. On the palate a good substance, grippy and with supple fruit. The texture is fairly gentle, fleshy rather than powerful with a good presence in the midpalate carrying through right to the finish. This is measured, with freshness, and it certainly has appeal. 17+/20

Domaine la Roquette Châteauneuf du Pape 1998: An older wine here, from before the estate was renamed Roquète. An interesting nose, certainly evolved in keeping with this wine's maturity, with hints of tea leaf and liquorice. A fresh composition on the palate, supple and certainly mature with hints of undergrowth alongside the very evolved fruit, but not without good substance. This is really appealing, and is ready now. 17.5/20

Domaine la Roquète Châteauneuf du Pape l'Accent de la Roquète 2006: A super-cuvée from the Bruniers, this is 90% old-vine Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre, raised in 30-hectolitre used oak casks. A rich fruit nose, sweet and ripe, certainly  concentrated, not in the slightest bit confit or jammy. The palate has a supple, velvety substance and a charcoaly, tannic grip which I like. Good acids, and a long, grippy finish with a savoury twist. 17+/20