Home > Trade Tastings > Two from Emilio Valerio

Two from Emilio Valerio

I receive many samples, but few arrive at my door in such a convoluted fashion as these two from Emilio Valerio. It all started with an unsolicited offer to taste the wines, from Björn Steinemann of Pompaelo Wines. If this rings any bells, it might be because I have already written of the farce that ensued on my blog, in my post on PR from Pompaelo Wines.

To recap for those unfamiliar with the story, or who don't want to click through to the blog entry above, I decided this was one unsolicited offer I would respond to. Although Spain isn't a wine nation I cover in any detail at all on Winedoctor, other than the occasional mature Rioja, I did have my eyes opened to the wines of Navarra at the 2008 Edinburgh tasting, and I was quite taken with the story behind this wine, which involves biodynamic cultivation of a multitude of tiny plots on the Montejurra, mountain slopes which overlook the town of Dicastillo in Tierra Estella, in what was once the ancient kingdom of Navarra.

To cut a long story short, Pompaelo Wines then refused to send samples, citing a number of confused reasons. It wasn't until Emilio Valerio himself contacted me (as I wrote here) that the situation became clear; Pompaelo Wines wouldn't be sending any samples because they didn't have any, and Emilio and his team were certainly not working with them. Thankfully, his commercial manager, the very helpful Xabier Sanz Larrea, then sent over a couple of bottles for me to taste. And I'm very glad that he did.

With that convoluted introduction out of the way, it's only right that we look at this project in a little more detail before we actually get to the wines. Emilio Valerio Martínez de Munlain, to give him his full title, is a local jurist who has more than 25 years experience as a legal prosecutor, with a particular interest in environmental issues. With a family estate that dates back more than six centuries, Emilio was eager to safeguard the biodiversity and viticultural heritage that lay on the slopes around Dicastillo, his home town. For his project he takes fruit from 50 small vineyards, all of which are tended in an ecologically sensitive fashion. A snippet from Emilio's own literature does much to explain his philosophy

Emilio Valerio: "We oppose the standard practices of mass production, man-made chemicals and environmentally traumatic methods that characterize the production of so many wines sold throughout the world today. We employ no-till farming, agrobiology and homeopathic agricultural techniques to our own lands. We protect the natural equilibrium, microorganisms and mineral composition of our soils."

The vineyards (and olive groves, another facet of the project) are situated at an altitude between 400 and 1000 metres, with soils of clay and limestone, peppered with areas of sand and limey gravel. The vines are an esoteric blend of varieties, 15 in total, red and white, with an average age of 35 years. The red wine, Viñas de Amburza, is dominated by Garnacha (Grenache of course), Graciano, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; the fruit is hand-harvested, and each small plot sees a micro-vinification in either cement, steel or oak, prior to blending and ageing in a mix of new and used French barrels.

Emilio and Xabier sent over two vintages to try, the 2005 and 2006. With such a fantastic story behind the wines - reminiscent, as I have written elsewhere, of Thierry Puzelat's work in Touraine protecting a multitude of tiny backyard plots that would otherwise be grubbed up - I really didn't know what to expect. Would the quality reflect the noble aims behind the wine, or would Emilio Valerio, impassioned and honourable as he clearly is, ultimately be let down by the contents of the bottle? Happily it would seem that, despite the project having been born out of environmental concerns, there is also much attention to the quality of the final product. These were two good wines, the 2006 very serviceable (I suspect it would benefit from more time in bottle), but the 2005 is giving exceptional pleasure right now, and I confess I found it difficult to put down my glass. (20/11/09)

Two from Emilio Valerio - Tasting Notes

Tasted in November 2009. Click for all stockists.

Emilio Valerio-Laderas de Montejurra Viñas de Amburza (Navarra) 2006: A cuvée made from multiple small plots of vines, using biodynamic methods. The average vine age is 35 years, the varieties Graciano, Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon. The harvest is manual, fermentation in wood and cement and then into French oak for 11 months. Dark in the glass, with dark, tightly coiled, plum skin fruit with very aromatic notes of warm Mediterranean herbs, especially sage, and a hot, stony element. Nicely textured on entry, polished, although with a lean core travelling through the middle, with tight and dry tannins at the centre, surrounded by a layer of lean, cherry stone fruit. Structured, dry, mouth-watering with a pithy finish. Rounded, soft-edged, but certainly a good mouthful, although certainly drily tannic and in need of some sympathetic food. 15.5+/20

Emilio Valerio-Laderas de Montejurra Viñas de Amburza (Navarra) 2005: A great colour in the glass, dark but also vibrant. The aromas presented on the nose are just delightful; it is packed with smoky black cherries, with a sense of creaminess. Rich with notes of plum skin, cherry stone and spiced blackberry, overall this is very nice. The palate is just fabulous, very well judged it seems, with a good layer of fruit alongside a rich but gentle, well delineated flesh. Good sappy fruit character, never plump or fat though, just deliciously composed, sweet and savoury, defined and structured, with a ripe and perfectly integrated seam of tannin in the middle. Good, black cherry, red cherry and cranberry fruit, and a tannin-tinged finish. Really excellent wine by any standards, this has a lovely detached freshness which I adore. Delicious wine! 17+/20