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Champers Champagne

One of the most wonderful aspects of the wine scene in the UK is the continued rise of small specialist merchants, small businesses which focus on importing wines of quality and individuality which, thankfully, are produced in volumes to small to appeal to the major retailers, notably the supermarkets and the increasingly depressing multiples. One such independent firm is Champers Ltd, which is home to Henry Speer. Henry imports a small but well chosen selection of Champagnes, and although his list includes a few well-known names (of quality, as it happens) such as Pol Roger and Joseph Perrier, it is refreshing to see less famous names featured. These include Esterlin, a respected Coopérative-Manipulant based in Mancy that has been bottling its own Champagne since 1948, as well as Du Mont-Hauban and Leclerc-Mondet. Du Mont-Hauban is a label of the Coopérative Vinicole de Monthelon-Morangis (CM-830-001), based in Monthelon, whereas Leclerc-Mondet (RM-26171-01) in Trélou-sur-Marne is home to Jacqueline Leclerc and her sons, and together they are capable of producing some good quality wines.

Henry recently furnished me with some representative samples from his portfolio, featuring these latter two producers. The Champers Ltd prices are included in brackets, and for transparency I have links to Wine-Searcher here also. The usual disclaimer; I write about wine, I don't sell it. I have no commercial connection or deal with Henry and Champers Ltd regarding these wines. (28/6/07)

Champers Champagne - Tasting Notes

Tasted in June 2007. Click to locate stockists.

Du Mont-Hauban Brut Sélection NV: A blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Meunier. It has an exuberant but moderately sized bead. The nose is fresh and clean, with a mineral edge, and is very bright and well defined. Fresh, lemony and crisp at first on the palate, then showing more well defined stony, nettly characteristics. This is an incisive wine, endowed with a beautifully fresh frame of acidity which is balanced out by a broad, mouth-filling palate. This is an absolute pleasure to drink. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17/20 (£13.75)

Du Mont-Hauban Cuvée Prestige Blanc de Blancs NV: This is 100% Chardonnay, obviously, and has a pale lemon gold hue with a very fine bead. The nose is elegantly floral and gentle, with little nuances of nuts and mint. A very fresh youthful style on the palate, with a lovely, lifted mousse. Gentle, just a little creamy, leafy and bright, this has a fresh, lingering finish. Rather full, still with a little of the foaminess of youth but I know this will settle down. Very good indeed, with certain potential. 17+/20 (£19.58)

Leclerc-Mondet Brut Tradition NV: From a half bottle. This has a pale straw-gold hue and a moderately fine bead. The nose carries a little citrus, and has a little steeliness to it, with richer but very subtle elements of green olive and brioche later on. The palate is fresh, clean, with slightly creamy white fruit. Quite broad though, with a gentle mousse and an appealing, caressing finish. A very pure style which is eminently drinkable. Very good. 16.5/20 (£7.50)

Du Mont-Hauban Brut Rosé NV: Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier again. This wine has a delightful salmon-pink sunset hue, with an almost non-existent bead in the glass. Redcurrants and cream, with a leafy, green peppercorn edge, dominate the fresh, clean nose. On the palate there is a lovely, quite lively and creamy yet refreshing mousse, running alongside the bright, leafy, crisp and acidic summer fruit flavours. This has an exuberant, precise, well defined style which makes it a pleasure to drink. Really very good. 16.5/20 (£15.75)

Leclerc-Mondet Brut Rosé NV: From a half bottle. A very strong colour here, deep salmon pink, with a nicely delicate bead. The nose is also firm and quite expressive, with a lot of strawberry and even a hint of cherry character with a creamy suggestion. Really attractive mousse on the palate, which serves to lift the wine which has a deep, full flavour for a rosé. Slightly more leafy here, but still rather rich, firmly structured and quite dense, with a little extract apparent through the midpalate. Short on the finish, but appealing and good fun. 16/20 (£8.45)