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Champers Champagne
One of the most wonderful aspects of the wine scene in the UK is the continued
rise of small specialist merchants, small businesses which focus on importing
wines of quality and individuality which, thankfully, are produced in volumes to
small to appeal to the major retailers, notably the supermarkets and the
increasingly depressing multiples.
One such independent firm is Champers Ltd, which is home to Henry Speer. Henry imports a
small but well chosen selection of Champagnes, and although his list includes a
few well-known names (of quality, as it happens) such as
Pol Roger and Joseph
Perrier, it is refreshing to see less famous names featured. These include Esterlin, a respected Coopérative-Manipulant based in Mancy that has been
bottling its own Champagne since 1948, as well as Du Mont-Hauban and
Leclerc-Mondet. Du Mont-Hauban is a label of the Coopérative Vinicole de
Monthelon-Morangis (CM-830-001), based in Monthelon, whereas Leclerc-Mondet (RM-26171-01) in Trélou-sur-Marne is
home to Jacqueline Leclerc and her sons, and together they are capable of producing some
good quality wines.
Henry recently furnished me with some representative samples from his portfolio, featuring these latter two producers. The Champers Ltd prices are included in brackets, and for transparency I have links to Wine-Searcher here also. The usual disclaimer; I write about wine, I don't sell it. I have no commercial connection or deal with Henry and Champers Ltd regarding these wines. (28/6/07)
Champers Champagne - Tasting Notes
Tasted in June 2007. Click
to locate stockists.
Du Mont-Hauban Brut Sélection NV: A blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Meunier. It has an exuberant but
moderately sized bead. The nose is fresh and clean, with a mineral edge, and is
very bright and well defined. Fresh, lemony and crisp at first on the palate,
then showing more well defined stony, nettly characteristics. This is an
incisive wine, endowed with a beautifully fresh frame of acidity which is
balanced out by a broad, mouth-filling palate. This is an absolute pleasure to drink. For label images and more see my
Wine of the Week
write-up. 17/20
Du Mont-Hauban Cuvée Prestige Blanc de Blancs NV:
This is 100% Chardonnay, obviously, and has a pale lemon gold hue with a very
fine bead. The nose is elegantly floral and gentle, with little nuances of nuts
and mint. A very fresh youthful style on the palate, with a lovely, lifted
mousse. Gentle, just a little creamy, leafy and bright, this has a fresh,
lingering finish. Rather full, still with a little of the foaminess of youth but
I know this will settle down. Very good indeed, with certain potential. 17+/20
Leclerc-Mondet Brut Tradition NV: From a half bottle. This has a pale
straw-gold hue and a moderately fine bead. The nose carries a little citrus, and
has a little steeliness to it, with richer but very subtle elements of green
olive and brioche later on. The palate is fresh, clean, with slightly creamy
white fruit. Quite broad though, with a gentle mousse and an appealing,
caressing finish. A very pure style which is eminently drinkable. Very good.
16.5/20
Du Mont-Hauban Brut Rosé NV: Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier again. This
wine has a delightful salmon-pink sunset hue, with an almost non-existent bead
in the glass. Redcurrants and cream, with a leafy, green peppercorn edge,
dominate the fresh, clean nose. On the palate there is a lovely, quite lively
and creamy yet refreshing mousse, running alongside the bright, leafy, crisp and
acidic summer fruit flavours. This has an exuberant, precise, well defined style
which makes it a pleasure to drink. Really very good. 16.5/20
Leclerc-Mondet Brut Rosé NV:
From a half bottle. A very strong colour here, deep salmon pink, with a nicely
delicate bead. The nose is also firm and quite expressive, with a lot of
strawberry and even a hint of cherry character with a creamy suggestion. Really
attractive mousse on the palate, which serves to lift the wine which has a deep,
full flavour for a rosé. Slightly more leafy here, but still rather rich, firmly
structured and quite dense, with a little extract apparent through the
midpalate. Short on the finish, but appealing and good fun. 16/20
