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New Releases from Caiarossa

Those who have read and memorised the hundreds of Bordeaux profiles on this site - and I know that is everyone reading this - will be instantly familiar with the names of Eric Albada Jelgersma and Alexander van der Beek. Just in case, however, there are one or two unfortunate individuals who might not have done their homework properly, I will help you out. A quick look at my accounts of Giscours and du Tertre will reveal that this duo are responsible for the current good fortunes of these two estates. Jelgersma acquired the latter in 1995, and the former he manages although, at the time of writing, it remains in the ownership of Nicolas Tari.

All this might seem at first glance irrelevant to the Caiarossa estate, a Tuscan winery in the Val di Cecina which was established in 1998. Irrelevant, that is, until we take note of the names behind this biodynamic Italian venture; they are, of course, Jelgersma and van der Beek.

Jelgersma acquired the property as recently as 2004, also bringing in Alexander to manage the team looking after estate; and it is indeed an unusual estate, with a vineyard as varied as any I have ever heard of. On a heterogeneous mix of soils, ranging from chalky clay to stony, iron-rich sand, there are just short of a dozen varieties planted. One would expect Sangiovese, of course, reflecting the region, and it is not surprising considering the connections with Margaux, and the region's lengthy flirtation (more of a marriage now, I think) with Bordeaux varieties, to find Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and even Petit Verdot. But then comes Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and even Alicante. And there are white varieties too; Chardonnay, Viognier and Petit Manseng. What is more, the two wines tasted and assessed here clearly demonstrate that the team at Caiarossa are not afraid of a little unorthodox blending of these varieties.

The vineyard operation is clearly one looking for quality; there is hand harvesting, transport in small 15 kg crates, selection in vineyard and winery, destemming and fermentation in oak. The wine undergoes malolactic in oak which is used judiciously; there is a mix of small barrels and large casks employed, and only 35% new oak for the top wine, Caiarossa, which is a cellar selection, and two year-old barrels for Pergolaia, the second wine, which is largely Sangiovese.

At the time of writing only two wines have been released, both IGT reds, starting from the 2002 vintage. I recently had the opportunity to taste the latest releases from the estate, both from the 2004 vintage. In this case the Caiarossa, clearly the most impressive of the two wines, was 33% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc and 22% Sangiovese, with lesser roles for Petit Verdot (6%), Alicante (3%), Syrah (2%) and Mourvèdre (1%). The fruit was harvested at yields between 18 and 25 hl/ha and there was only 25% new wood used in maturation, both factors going some way towards explaining the pleasure offered by this wine. Pergolaia, meanwhile, was 95% Sangiovese, harvested at 20 to 40 hl/ha, and whilst very good was certainly overshadowed by the towering concentration of fruit offered by its bigger brother. (23/5/08)

New Releases from Caiarossa - Tasting Notes

Tasted in May 2008. Click for stockists.

Caiarossa Pergolaia (Toscana IGT) 2004: This cuvée is 95% Sangiovese, the remaining 5% a mix of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Fermented in oak. An intriguing array of aromas here, juicy and yet meaty, dusty and leathery, dry but with a little suggestion of cherry fruit sweetness. A nice fresh style on the palate, leathery but with well rounded, textured fruit. It is just a little high toned with good acidity and little in the way of tannin, although there is substance here. A juicy, interesting wine with plenty of organic complexity in terms of flavour, rounding up in a sour-sappy finish. Fairly short, but very good. 16/20

Caiarossa (Toscana IGT) 2004: This wine is a real blend of varieties, being 33% Merlot, 33% Cabernet (Sauvignon and Franc), 22% Sangiovese, 6% Petit Verdot, 2% Syrah, 1% Mourvèdre and - unusually - 3% Alicante, a grape perhaps most notable for having red flesh and juice. It has a fine, deep, vibrant colour. The nose has smoky fruit, presented in a dense, intense, slightly roasted style, with a little cola and cherry fruit. It is fresh and expressive. The palate is fleshy and rich, grippy, polished and very well composed, showing substance, grip and structure especially at finish. Despite its gentle application there is still some smoky oak here, but overall this has a delicious, slightly sappy, broad character. A little charcoaly, but fleshy and drinkable now, this is attractive wine. And it has potential to give more. 17.5+/20