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Old World Classics from Cadman Fine Wines

It took a couple of years of running this site for me to realise that it is impossible to write about every aspect of wine based on your own knowledge. The world of wine today is simply too broad, and it continues to broaden; there are simply too many countries, too many wineries, too many regional controversies for one writer to cover them all in the appropriate detail. And so today I have more focus on the site. Although I try to taste widely, I certainly focus today on Old World rather than New, and on France more than Italy, Germany or Spain. Bordeaux is a strong area of interest, but the Loire is perhaps my specialist subject. With this approach, I hope to bring something useful and also, in the case of the latter region, something unique to this site; to my knowledge there is no other online source of information on the Loire to match what I offer here.

The approach of Cadman Fine Wines is perhaps similar; the focus here is classic styles from classic regions, with Bordeaux and Tuscany featuring heavily. What is delightful about the list, however, is that it avoids being another carbon-copy rundown of each region, listing only the famous names with exorbitant prices. There are lesser known efforts too; wines classified as Rosso di Toscana and Côtes de Bourg alongside the Chianti Classico and the Pomerol. It is a refreshing approach, delivered in a stylish fashion; the website is elegant, user-friendly and quick.

I recently tasted a selection of wines sent up from Cadman Fine Wines, and before I continue I must disclose that Cadman is at the time of writing a sponsor of the site. Nevertheless, the wines here have been reviewed without prejudice; my opinions are not influenced by this relationship. This might be most obvious with the wines of Christian Veyry, a graduate of the Rolland school who not only vinifies at his own estate but also consults at a number of others, and many of these wines are to be found on the Cadman list. The style will have appeal to many, but the voluptuous fruit and low acidity did not win favour with this palate; it is simply a matter of taste, however, as the wines are clearly well made and will please many. Other wines I found to be very good indeed, and two in particular were really excellent, namely the Fattoria di Soprgenti Scirus and my previous Wine of the Week, the 2005 Reverdy Sancerre.

The Cadman prices - many of which are currently reduced - are included in brackets, and for transparency I have links to wine-searcher () also. Finally, another disclaimer. This is a site for presenting wine opinion; it is not a wine store. I don't sell wine, and I earn no commission from these reviews. (25/3/08)

Old World Classics from Cadman Fine Wines - Tasting Notes

Tasted in March 2008. Click to locate stockists:

Franck Bonville Cuvée Sélection Blanc de Blancs NV: This cuvée is purely Chardonnay, sourced from Grand Cru vineyards around Avize. This wine has an attractive, straw coloured appearance, and a good bead. The aromas of fresh white fruit are the most obvious, but there are also little notes of nuts, of dried fruits. There is a lovely, complete, rounded, vinous character on the palate, with a touch of creaminess, although it is not overly rich thanks to the very firm acidity and lively, popping mousse. Dried fruits, a touch of seductive honey, and a very firm finish. Some nice length. Very good. 17+/20 (£19.99)

Domaine Baron Touraine Sauvignon 2006: An attractive hue, a pale straw colour. On the nose, lots of lovely character, and a richness of aroma, which is dominated by notes of blackcurrant leaf, gooseberry and even notes of yellow capsicum and minerally smoke. Similarly, plenty of interest on the palate, which shows a depth of flavour matched by texture, substance and acidity. Nice complexity, citrus and a little touch of caramel but without the sweetness, but plenty of depth. A good presence and a slightly bitter grip to the short, peppery finish. Impressive for an appellation that would be disregarded by many. Very good, punching way above its weight. 17/20 (£6.99)

Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Terre de Maimbray 2005: A fairly pale hue, nothing out of the ordinary. The nose, though, does offer something quite special; although it carries the fresh, grassy, gooseberry fruit of the Sauvignon Blanc there is also an evident seam of minerality, like gunpowder or powdered rocks. This is a wine of considerable aromatic depth and interest. The palate has a fresh vibrancy that I adore, with a firm weight and presence in the mouth. Through the midpalate it maintains this fresh, mineral acidity and it stays lively to the finish, where it lingers a little while. This is a wine of character which is delicious for drinking now, but which will surely improve over a year or two in the cellar. Excellent. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 18/20 (£11.49)

Chateau Saransot-Dupré Blanc (Bordeaux) 2005: This is 60% Semillon and 40% Sauvignon Blanc. It has a straw-coloured appearance and a moderate depth of colour, and on the nose although initially fresh and lemony it soon rounds out to a more typically Semillon style, with a little honeyed toast with a background aroma of dried white fruits. There is some grip on the palate, perhaps reflecting a little oak ageing, and moderately fresh acidity. A nice substance, rather full and rounded but never flabby or too unfocused. The flavours are interesting, with little tinge of straw and minerals to the fruit on the midpalate. Nice wine. 16/20 (£8.99)

Chateau Saransot-Dupré (Listrac) 2004: Merlot predominates this Cru Bourgeois Supérieur, despite this being a left bank wine. A nice colour here, quite vibrant, plenty of red pigment persisting. The nose should appeal to fans of old-style Bordeaux, showing some attractive crunchy fruit, with a cherry and smoky blackcurrant profile, with a firm, green peppercorn edge. A good weight on entry, a little touch of flattering richness, then a more classic, firmer, crunchy, leaner style through the midpalate. It has plenty of substance but an attractive, reserved texture. A good core of tannins which are ripe, nicely balanced out by the fruit, only coming to dominate by the end of the palate, a feature which will pass as the wine ages. This certainly has potential for the cellar, but is ready to go now with an hour or two decant. 16.5+/20 (£10.50)

Chateau Bel-Air La Royère (Blaye) 2003: An interesting cuvée here; this wine, made by Xavier and Corinne Loriaud with advice from consultant Christian Veyry, incorporates 25% Malbec in the final blend, which is otherwise dominated by Merlot. It has a rich and opaque, youthful red-black hue. The nose offers aromas of warm, unfocused fruit; it has a dark character, and a feral, warm vintage feel. The wine on the palate is broad, full-bodied, grippy and tannic, although there is an appealingly seamless texture. A low acid style, with a little hardness under the elegant texture. Lots of ripe, rounded, slightly chewy tannins on the finish. Good, but a very particular style with a somewhat brawny edge. 15/20 (£17.49)

Chateau les Ricards (Premières Côtes de Blaye) 2005: A deep and rich, youthful hue on inspection, this is predominately Merlot but with a not insignificant 20% Malbec included. The nose is delightful, showing plenty of bright, blackcurrant and black pepper aromas, with a touch of cream, all very lifted and well defined. It is fresh, lively, full of direction and verve. On the palate it has a similarly fresh style, rather detached and appealing, with moderate acidity and a nicely balanced composition. There is a good grip from the midpalate onwards, and a rather grippy and slightly bitter, although appealingly sappy finish as a result, which I find very appealing. Lots of crunchy fruit throughout, and overall it has vigour and definition; this is a real success. I think this is very impressive. 17+/20 (£9.99)

Chateau Veyry (Côtes de Castillon) 2004: This is Christian Veyry's work. A very dark, concentrated hue on inspection. There is an appealing seam of exotic pepper and spice, with charcoal, roast coffee beans and plum on the nose. It takes an hour or so to really open out, but when it does so it is a delight to experience. There is good substance on the palate too, backed up by good tannins, plenty of dark, charcoaly fruits and more. It has a good grip, but what it misses is acidity, a defining framework to give the wine some direction, definition, vigour, to balance out the rich texture and tight grip. Good, easy drinking, although not one for my palate I think. 14.5/20 (£16.49)

Chateau Louvie (St Emilion) 2005: Another wine from Christian Veyry, a Grand Cru St Emilion, and a similarly dark hue when the wine is poured into the glass. Like the Côtes de Castillon there is plenty of evident richness on the nose here, which is crammed with dark plum fruit sprinkled with white pepper and minerals. The palate is very soft, rich and creamy on entry and it broadens out to coat every part of the mouth through the midpalate, showing notes of bitter coffee, super-ripe blackberry and plum fruit and under the fat texture and seam of ripe tannins which poke out at the finish. This is a ripely finished wine, with exotic notes of smoke and cherry. But although there is plenty of grip, like the former wine it has too little acidity for my palate. Nevertheless, a real crowd-pleaser that would go down a storm with many, I am sure. 15/20 (£12.49)

Fattoria le Sorgenti Chianti Colli Fiorentini Respiro 2005: This is the Le Sorgenti entry-level wine, made from 98% Sangiovese and 2% Trebbiano, sourced from the Ferrari family's La Sala vineyard. Aged in steel, with microbullage. Bottled under agglomerate cork. A good colour in the glass, not opaque, but dense and bright. This is a wine which needs a little time to show its best though - after an hour or so the nose moves from charcoal tinged fruit to one with more depth, plums and cherries. Really bright character on the palate, firm acidity and quite some grip revealed once it opens up. With a good structure, and still with that charcoal character under it all, this will be good for midweek drinking with food. 16+/20 (£8.99)

Fattoria le Sorgenti Gaiaccia (Rosso di Toscana) 2004: This is 70% Sangiovese, with the remainder Merlot. This has a really deep yet vibrant colour in the glass, deeply pigmented right out to the rim. The nose is certainly seductive; showing bright, rich, chocolate-tinged plum fruit, with a residual seam of honeyed, peppery oak. Soft, creamy, rich but nicely framed on the palate; just as seductive as the nose, but with a full seam of ripe, svelte tannins and nice acidity to the fore. Lots of deep, plush fruit, in an attractive and flattering style. Really very appealing, a flashy wine that even I admire. It has a short finish, but nevertheless this one will be a real crowd-pleaser. 16.5+/20 (£12.15)

Fattoria le Sorgenti Scirus (Rosso di Toscana) 2003: This wine, 60% Cabernet and 40% Merlot, has a lovely, vibrant, deep hue. On the nose, aromas of smoky coffee, crunchy raspberry and cranberry fruit, presented in a rich, forward and expressive style that does nothing to suggest the excessive heat of the vintage. The palate is very fine, rich and creamy, very concentrated, textured and voluptuous. But underneath there is acidity and structure, bite and grip, with wonderful, bramble, raspberry and blackcurrant fruit. Lots of extract and substance here, and a rich depth on the end of the palate. This is big and impressive but fresh and structured, and finely textured. Not complex now but this will come with time I think. Excellent. 18+/20 (£24.99)