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Bibendum 2010 Tasting - Part 2

Bibendum 2010

Notes from a 2010 Bibendum tasting:

Part 1: White Wines

Part 2: Red Wines

Following on from part one, in which I focused on the sparkling and white wines, below are my notes on the red wines from Bibendum, shown recently at a tasting at the Hotel du Vin, in Glasgow.

There were lots of decent wines here, including some Burgundies with potential to provide attractive drinking from Domaine Roux, but the best offerings came from Spain in the shape of Bodegas Tabula, as well as from Portugal with the table wines of Quinta do Vallado. Further afield, from the likes of Katnook, St Hallett and Stonier, fans of high-quality Australian reds should find something to keep their tastebuds happy here. (5/5/10)

Tasting Notes - The Reds

Tasted in March 2010. Click for stockists.

Burgundy

Domaine Roux Gevrey-Chambertin 2007: A very pale cherry red but an interesting nose, full of bright and vibrant character, redolent of rosemary and red fruits. The palate has some good substance, although a rather supple layer of spicy fruit. A nicely styled wine although it needs time. 15.5+/20

Bordeaux

Château Lezongars (Premières Côtes de Bordeaux) 2005: Cabernet Sauvignon 63%, Merlot 37%. An attractive, evolving, very classically-styled nose here, peppery and dusty, showing good maturity already. The palate has elegance and restraint, with attractive crunchy-spicy fruit although with a slightly burnt edge. There is still a little grippy tannin in the finish so this would benefit from another year or so yet. Give it time. 15.5+/20

Larose de Gruaud (St Julien) 2007: The second wine of Gruaud-Larose. Cabernet Sauvignon 60%, Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc 5% and Petit Verdot 5%. Iron fruit on the nose here, dark and restrained, lightly crunchy, tinged with violets. The palate has a lean elegance, well composed but not particularly concentrated. It has a rather solid outer shell, but I can't deny that it is attractively fresh and clean for the vintage. Just over-priced, that's all. 15.5+/20

Languedoc

Domaine le Cazal Minervois 2006: This is led by Carignan, with Grenache and Syrah. Slightly cooked fruit on the nose here, with hints of dusty undergrowth. The same character comes through on the palate which has a very smoothly textured polish. Grip and tannin, but lightly raisined, with a white pepper finish. It is not a style that appeals greatly. 14/20

Roussillon

Domaine Lafage Special Reserve Charles Rennie Mackintosh 2008: A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan. Sweet Grenache fruit on the nose, dark, sweetly ripe and slightly inky. Nice substance on the palate, olives and fruit, very true to the variety in the same manner as the nose. Intense, quite spicy and grippy in the finish, rich but really quite nicely poised. 15.5+/20

Els Pyreneus Maury Grenat 2007: Grenache 100%, in 50cl bottles. Intense and glossy fruit just as you would expect with the grenat style, although it is a touch hot and reductive also. Sweet, lots of texture, bright and peppery also, very much influenced by the variety. Good acids too though. It has appeal, but is a touch straightforward. 15/20

Spain

Dinastia Vivanco Rioja Crianza 2005: Tempranillo 100%, fermentation at 28ºC and 16 months in French & American oak. Dark, with slightly roasted red fruits on the nose, with a soft but nicely composed palate and some rather juicy fruit. Underneath though, a rather grippy tannic core, with some hot and spicy elements to it as well. A nicely chunky style. 15.5/20

Dinastia Vivanco Rioja Reserva 2004: Tempranillo 90%, Graciano 10%, fermentation at 30ºC and 24 months in oak of which 50% was new. Evolved and meaty on the nose, with elements of dusty, roasted fruit. Attractive, broad, quite a substantial wine on the palate with a chalky acid core. Full, characterful and yet vibrant. This will benefit from some cellar time. 16+/20

Bodegas Tabula Damana 5 (Ribera del Duero) 2008: This is 96% Tempranillo and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. A bright hue, slightly roasted fruits and a touch meaty. Moderate texture, attractive style, almost juicy. Nice, ripe and grainy tannins underneath too though, and there is a savoury edge also. Broad, good acidity, lending it a bright and vigorous feel. 16.5+/20

Portugal

Quinta do Vallado Douro Tinto 2008: A blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela, Tinta Barroca and Sousão. Rather sweet and dark fruit on the nose, and the palate follows on with a softly textured, rounded and polished feel. Plump charcoal-tinged fruit, and ripe, velvety tannins. Certainly some appeal here. 16.5+/20

Quinta do Vallado Douro Reserva 2007: A blend of Sousão and 20 other varieties. dark fruits here, forest bonfires, sweet but crunchy and savoury too. Lots of substance on the palate, but also a dry frame of acidity and ripe tannins around the meat. Smoky, blue-tinged fruit, with a good, full-on texture. Impressive. 17+/20

Italy

Riva Leone Barbera 2007: Warm fruit on the nose, with a touch of raisin and cinnamon. The palate has a nice substance, a good core of acid and a run of ripe tannin. The fruit here seems more perfumed and is certainly attractive, and laced with nuanced of cream and toffee, the latter element coming to the fore on the finish. Good value for money here. 15/20

Riva Leone Barolo 2005: A very pale but typical hue here, with good deep and dusty fruit on the nose. Slightly high-toned, but overall very appealing. A polished style on the palate, quite firmly composed, but filling the mouth nicely. There is the expected tannin at the core, and an appealing note of spice too. Good wine and again good value I think. 16.5+/20

Castello Banfi Rosso di Montalcino 2008: Stones and seaweed on the nose here, with a lightly gamey layer of fruit. Supple, although showing more flesh than I expected from the nose, with good spice and peppery tannin. An attractively composed wine, although those aromas certainly raise some concerns. 14.5+?/20

Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2004: An attractive nose, slightly meaty, appealing and firm. A very structured palate, quite upright, with prominent acidity and soft tannin. There is minimal fruit showing here at present, but a good substance and a slightly custardy finish. This has potential but should be left well alone for the moment. 16-16.5+/20

Bisceglia Aglianico del Vulture Terra di Vulcano 2006: Under screwcap. There is some reduction on the nose here, warm fruit, although with a welcome edge of freshness to it as well. Good substance on the palate, plenty of texture and depth, supple with a ripe core of tannins and a velvety, charcoaly layer of fruit. Nicely tannic finish. Intriguing wine. 16/20

Ceretto Barolo Zonchera 2005: A typical paling hue at the rim here, with a dusty but rather solid layer of maturing fruit. Lovely substance on the palate, a nice maturing texture and a good core of tannins. Very firm, vice-like grip and fresh acidity, all rounded off by some very supple edges. This is very nice wine indeed, with good potential for the cellar. 17+/20

JVBILVM Pinot Nero/Syrah (Sicily) 2008: An unusual combination of varieties, which on the nose offers up fresh fruit, although in a very dark, distant style with a sweet and peppery edge which surely comes from the Syrah. Nice substance on the palate, plenty of tannins, fresh but also with a touch of charcoal alongside, and some savoury-gamey elements too. Good. 15.5+/20

India

Grover Vineyards La Reserve (Nandi Hills) 2006: From 20 year-old vines, with Michel Rolland as a consultant. A moderate depth of colour. Restrained, slightly sweet fruit on the nose, with a leafy-berry character. There is freshness on the palate, soft texture, and a low-tannin and low-acid style. A nice effort. 14+/20

Australia

Stonier Pinot Noir (Mornington Peninsula) 2008: Under screwcap. Nice fruit, with an appealing and smoky density. Good depth on the palate too, although with a rather open texture. Good spice and tannins behind it though, with crunchy cranberry and smoky chocolate, with vibrant acidity. Really nice style here. 17/20

St Hallett Old Block Shiraz (Barossa Valley) 2006: An old friend here, in previous vintages at least. Dark and savoury on the nose, with intense roasted spices. Lots of substance on the palate, dry but with a creamy composition. Dark fruit complexity with a creamed edge, depth and style. Really good potential for sure. 17+/20

D'Arenberg The Laughing Magpie Shiraz/Viognier (McLaren Vale) 2007: Under screwcap. Dark and rather withdrawn fruit on the nose, and a more sweet and peppery character to it on the palate. Soft, richly textured, sweet but with purity, conveyed by some pretty aromatics and a good wedge of acidity. Rather hard tannin on the finish, but there is some appeal here. 16+/20

Katnook Prodigy (Coonawarra) Shiraz 2003: An intense nose here, slightly gamey fruit, sweet but ripe but also with a savoury layer of complexity. Lots of substance on the palate, a creamy weight of fruit, with good tannins at the core. Very firm acids, quite imposing, and although there is plenty of flavour the acids come through with a apple skin character on the finish. Overall unfocused and loose-knit, very primary, this wine needs years to come together. 16-17+/20

Mexico

Estapor Venir Mezcla Tinto 2007: Sweet, open, slightly confected fruit on the nose, and on the palate a mix of sweet fruit to match, together with a hint of game. Dry butterscotch on the palate, roasted game, all very intense and unintegrated. Certainly interesting to taste. 13/20