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Bibendum 2010 Tasting - Part 2
Following on from part one, in which I focused on the sparkling and white wines, below are my notes on the red wines from Bibendum, shown recently at a tasting at the Hotel du Vin, in Glasgow.
There were lots of decent wines here, including some Burgundies with potential to provide attractive drinking from Domaine Roux, but the best offerings came from Spain in the shape of Bodegas Tabula, as well as from Portugal with the table wines of Quinta do Vallado. Further afield, from the likes of Katnook, St Hallett and Stonier, fans of high-quality Australian reds should find something to keep their tastebuds happy here. (5/5/10)
Tasting Notes - The Reds
Tasted in March 2010. Click
for stockists.
Domaine Roux Gevrey-Chambertin 2007: A very pale cherry red but an
interesting nose, full of bright and vibrant character, redolent of rosemary and
red fruits. The palate has some good substance, although a rather supple layer
of spicy fruit. A nicely styled wine although it needs time. 15.5+/20
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Château Lezongars (Premières Côtes de Bordeaux) 2005: Cabernet Sauvignon
63%, Merlot 37%. An attractive, evolving, very classically-styled nose here,
peppery and dusty, showing good maturity already. The palate has elegance and
restraint, with attractive crunchy-spicy fruit although with a slightly burnt
edge. There is still a little grippy tannin in the finish so this would benefit
from another year or so yet. Give it time. 15.5+/20
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Larose de Gruaud (St Julien) 2007: The second wine of
Gruaud-Larose. Cabernet Sauvignon 60%, Merlot 30%, Cabernet
Franc 5% and Petit Verdot 5%. Iron fruit on the nose here, dark and restrained,
lightly crunchy, tinged with violets. The palate has a lean elegance, well
composed but not particularly concentrated. It has a rather solid outer shell,
but I can't deny that it is attractively fresh and clean for the vintage. Just
over-priced, that's all. 15.5+/20
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Domaine le Cazal Minervois 2006: This is led by Carignan, with
Grenache and Syrah. Slightly cooked fruit on the nose here, with hints of dusty
undergrowth. The same character comes through on the palate which has a very
smoothly textured polish. Grip and tannin, but lightly raisined, with a white
pepper finish. It is not a style that appeals greatly. 14/20
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Domaine Lafage Special Reserve Charles Rennie Mackintosh 2008: A blend
of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan. Sweet Grenache fruit on the nose, dark, sweetly
ripe and slightly inky. Nice substance on the palate, olives and fruit, very
true to the variety in the same manner as the nose. Intense, quite spicy and
grippy in the finish, rich but really quite nicely poised. 15.5+/20
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Els Pyreneus Maury Grenat 2007: Grenache 100%, in 50cl bottles.
Intense and glossy fruit just as you would expect with the grenat style,
although it is a touch hot and reductive also. Sweet, lots of texture, bright
and peppery also, very much influenced by the variety. Good acids too though. It
has appeal, but is a touch straightforward. 15/20
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Dinastia Vivanco Rioja Crianza 2005: Tempranillo 100%, fermentation at
28ºC and 16 months in French & American oak. Dark, with slightly roasted red
fruits on the nose, with a soft but nicely composed palate and some rather juicy
fruit. Underneath though, a rather grippy tannic core, with some hot and spicy
elements to it as well. A nicely chunky style. 15.5/20
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Dinastia Vivanco Rioja Reserva 2004: Tempranillo 90%, Graciano 10%,
fermentation at 30ºC and 24 months in oak of which 50% was new. Evolved and
meaty on the nose, with elements of dusty, roasted fruit. Attractive, broad,
quite a substantial wine on the palate with a chalky acid core. Full,
characterful and yet vibrant. This will benefit from some cellar time. 16+/20
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Bodegas Tabula Damana 5 (Ribera del Duero) 2008: This is 96%
Tempranillo and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. A bright hue, slightly roasted fruits and
a touch meaty. Moderate texture, attractive style, almost juicy. Nice, ripe and
grainy tannins underneath too though, and there is a savoury edge also. Broad,
good acidity, lending it a bright and vigorous feel. 16.5+/20
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Quinta do Vallado Douro Tinto 2008: A blend of Touriga Nacional,
Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela, Tinta Barroca and Sousão. Rather
sweet and dark fruit on the nose, and the palate follows on with a softly
textured, rounded and polished feel. Plump charcoal-tinged fruit, and ripe,
velvety tannins. Certainly some appeal here. 16.5+/20
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Quinta do Vallado Douro Reserva 2007: A blend of Sousão and 20 other
varieties. dark fruits here, forest bonfires, sweet but crunchy and savoury too.
Lots of substance on the palate, but also a dry frame of acidity and ripe
tannins around the meat. Smoky, blue-tinged fruit, with a good, full-on texture.
Impressive. 17+/20
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Riva Leone Barbera 2007: Warm fruit on the nose, with a touch of
raisin and cinnamon. The palate has a nice substance, a good core of acid and a
run of ripe tannin. The fruit here seems more perfumed and is certainly
attractive, and laced with nuanced of cream and toffee, the latter element
coming to the fore on the finish. Good value for money here. 15/20
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Riva Leone Barolo 2005: A very pale but typical hue here, with good
deep and dusty fruit on the nose. Slightly high-toned, but overall very
appealing. A polished style on the palate, quite firmly composed, but filling
the mouth nicely. There is the expected tannin at the core, and an appealing
note of spice too. Good wine and again good value I think. 16.5+/20
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Castello Banfi Rosso di Montalcino 2008: Stones and seaweed on the
nose here, with a lightly gamey layer of fruit. Supple, although showing more
flesh than I expected from the nose, with good spice and peppery tannin. An
attractively composed wine, although those aromas certainly raise some concerns. 14.5+?/20
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Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2004: An attractive nose,
slightly meaty, appealing and firm. A very structured palate, quite upright,
with prominent acidity and soft tannin. There is minimal fruit showing here at
present, but a good substance and a slightly custardy finish. This has
potential but should be left well alone for the moment. 16-16.5+/20
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Bisceglia Aglianico del Vulture Terra di Vulcano 2006: Under screwcap.
There is some reduction
on the nose here, warm fruit, although with a welcome edge of freshness to it as
well. Good substance on the palate, plenty of texture and depth, supple with a
ripe core of tannins and a velvety, charcoaly layer of fruit. Nicely tannic
finish. Intriguing wine. 16/20
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Ceretto Barolo Zonchera 2005: A typical paling hue at the rim here, with a
dusty but rather solid layer of maturing fruit. Lovely substance on the palate,
a nice maturing texture and a good core of tannins. Very firm, vice-like grip
and fresh acidity, all rounded off by some very supple edges. This is very nice
wine indeed, with good potential for the cellar. 17+/20
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JVBILVM Pinot Nero/Syrah (Sicily) 2008: An unusual combination of
varieties, which on the nose offers up fresh fruit, although in a very dark,
distant style with a sweet and peppery edge which surely comes from the Syrah.
Nice substance on the palate, plenty of tannins, fresh but also with a touch of
charcoal alongside, and some savoury-gamey elements too. Good. 15.5+/20
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Grover Vineyards La Reserve (Nandi Hills) 2006: From 20 year-old
vines, with Michel Rolland as a consultant. A moderate depth of colour.
Restrained, slightly sweet fruit on the nose, with a leafy-berry character.
There is freshness on the palate, soft texture, and a low-tannin and low-acid
style. A nice effort. 14+/20
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Stonier Pinot Noir (Mornington Peninsula) 2008: Under screwcap. Nice fruit, with an
appealing and smoky density. Good depth on the palate too, although with a
rather open texture. Good spice and tannins behind it though, with crunchy
cranberry and smoky chocolate, with vibrant acidity. Really nice style here.
17/20
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St Hallett Old Block Shiraz (Barossa Valley) 2006: An old friend here,
in previous vintages at least. Dark and savoury on the nose, with intense
roasted spices. Lots of substance on the palate, dry but with a creamy
composition. Dark fruit complexity with a creamed edge, depth and style. Really
good potential for sure. 17+/20
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D'Arenberg The Laughing Magpie Shiraz/Viognier
(McLaren Vale) 2007: Under screwcap. Dark and rather
withdrawn fruit on the nose, and a more sweet and peppery character to it on the
palate. Soft, richly textured, sweet but with purity, conveyed by some pretty
aromatics and a good wedge of acidity. Rather hard tannin on the finish, but
there is some appeal here. 16+/20
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Katnook Prodigy (Coonawarra) Shiraz 2003: An intense nose here, slightly gamey
fruit, sweet but ripe but also with a savoury layer of complexity. Lots of
substance on the palate, a creamy weight of fruit, with good tannins at the
core. Very firm acids, quite imposing, and although there is plenty of flavour
the acids come through with a apple skin character on the finish. Overall
unfocused and loose-knit, very primary, this wine needs years to come together.
16-17+/20
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Estapor Venir Mezcla Tinto 2007: Sweet, open, slightly confected fruit
on the nose, and on the palate a mix of sweet fruit to match, together with a
hint of game. Dry butterscotch on the palate, roasted game, all very intense and
unintegrated. Certainly interesting to taste. 13/20
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- See part one for my Bibendum 2010 notes on the white, sparkling & sweet wines.
Part 1: 