De Castellane Brut NV: The assemblage here is 40% Chardonnay, 30% each Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. A rather reticent and chalky nose, and a firm mousse on the palate. Rather chalky, lean, marked by very firm acidity. Decent weight here, but a very hard texture, and little to flatter the taster's palate. 14/20

Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Brut NV: This is 45% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay and 22% Pinot Meunier. Rich fruit here, smoky and desiccated in style. Good texture, a creamy substance, with a fine and yet very broad mousse. A stony edge to the texture which I find appealing, and overall a very good and approachable style tinged with a little nettle at the end. 16.5+/20

Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blancs Brut 1995: Pure Chardonnay, of course. A gorgeous nose here of baked oranges and biscuits, both smoky and walnutty. A full and creamy style, very bright and fresh. The definition is in keeping with the blanc de blancs style, and is not as evolved as the nose suggests, with just a little nuance of dried nuts. A lovely composition. 17.5+/20

Paul Buisse Les Nuages Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2009: Under screwcap. An intense Sauvignon character on the nose here, all yellow peppers and lemon cream. Quite a lot of substance on the palate though, with punchy bright fruit, all greengage and capsicum and yellow plum. Vibrant and tingly acid. Should be popular with all hardcore Sauvignon followers. 15.5/20

Paul Buisse Les Nuages Pinot Noir Rosé (VdP de Loire) 2009: Under screwcap lightly aromatic nose, with notes of watermelon and bubblegum. Raspberries and chalk on the palate, softly fleshy, with a low level of residual sugar (unlike so many Loire rosés!). It is at least interesting. 14.5/20

Clos Berger Vouvray 2008: This wine has a very soft style on the nose, with gently sweet yellow fruits. On the palate it is sec-tendre in style, softly composed but with a nice gritty fruit character. Vibrant acidity, overall elegantly done. 15/20

Domaine Jean Defaix Chablis 2008: Citrus peel, especially fresh orange on the nose here, with a ripe but chalky feel. A nice, gentle texture, rather svelte substance for a generic Chablis, nicely creamed citrus fruit too. Rather well composed, and with good grip. A good effort for the appellation. 16/20

Domaine Jean Defaix Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Léchet 2008: A very fresh style here, although the fruit profile is a touch reticent and dry in character. A good texture on the palate, well framed, upright, with good substance and definition. Nice core of acidity and a grippy, sour-fruit finish. 16-16.5+/20

Domaine Jean Defaix Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons 2007: Nice fruit here, very cleanly-styled, although with it has a touch of kiwi and is somewhat brushed with honey. A good broad style in the mouth, substantial, savoury, with a slightly peppery grip. An upright, very tight finish, nuanced with lemon and pineapple. Lovely potential here, but it needs time. 17+/20

Patrick Piuze Petit Chablis 2009: A lean nose here, showing rather grassy fruit. Gently textured, similarly lean on the palate, although in terms of texture and acidity it is at least approachable. Fresh, balanced, and in possession of some sweet fruit with a yellow plum character. A very decent effort for the appellation. 15/20

Patrick Piuze Petit Chablis Terroirs de Chablis 2008: Funky wax capsule here. A lightly smoky nose, full of yellow and green crunchy fruit. Nice freshness on the palate, lightly textured, with a soft and slightly chalky feel. Rather subdued acidity. Still very tight in the finish, overall very primary, but this should be good given time. 15.5+/20

Domaine Saint-Abel Rully Clos des Mollepières 2007: Rather reduced on the nose. Otherwise quite tight and a bit sweaty. A well-framed texture though, with yellow plum overlaid with fresh and grainy oak. A short finish. Rather difficult to judge in this condition. 15-16+?/20

Domaine Saint-Abel Mercurey Le Perrière 2008: A very pale hue here, and on the nose some smoky-crunchy fruit, with a firm beetrooty edge. Fresh, but soft and supple, with a nice fruit presence. Light, with very typical rather stolid fruit for Mercurey, although it does some brightness at the edges. 14.5/20

Domaine Roux Bourgogne Chardonnay Les Murelles 2008: A lightly creamed yellow fruit and vanilla-talc nose here, crunchy but with a sweetness to it as well. A very approachable texture on the palate, rather a bitter grip though, with notes of orange pith. Nicely framed but not exciting. 14/20

Domaine Roux Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumes 2008: This wine sees 14 months in oak. A slightly crisper nose in comparison with the generic Bourgogne here. A good substance on the palate, polished, very pure in character, with a lemon-greengage style of fruit. A structured wine, with a grainy substance. Still showing very primary fruit here but there is lovely potential. 16.5+/20

Domaine Roux St Aubin La Pucelle 2008: This wine sees 8 months in oak, 30% new. This shows through on the nose, which has a nice grainy character with some pure fruit alongside, although it has a slightly custardy element too. Nice fruits in the mouth, a gritty substance, and like the Chassagne still very primary. Fresh acids and good concentration though, and balanced too. This should be good. 16+/20

La Croix Vermentino Sauvignon Blanc (VdP d'Oc) 2009: Under screwcap. Rather watery fruit on the nose here, with a slightly green character. Good substance on the palate despite that, solid grip, very green fruit, with greengage and gentle notes of pepper. The style is certainly determined by Sauvignon Blanc here. 14.5/20

Laurenz V Friendly Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal) 2008: Under screwcap. A pale, green-tinged hue. fresh and herby fruit on the nose. Good flesh on the palate, pale white fruits. Intensely peppery, very typical of Grüner. Full of vibrant acidity. Good. 16/20

Laurenz V Silver Bullet Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal) 2008: An unusual 50cl bottle, under screwcap. Fresh, lightly mineral nose. Lovely plump fruit suggestions. A very precise start on the palate, softer and polished through the middle, with a good layer of creamy fruit. Nice substance too. Good. 16+/20

Etim Blanc (Montsant) 2008: Grenache Blanc 100%, under screwcap. A slightly reduced nose here, but lots of barrel notes too. Sweet barrel-ferment character, but also rubbery. A good firm substance though, plenty of texture, sweet, peppery and spicy. Could be really interesting but it is difficult to conclude anything when the wine is like this. No score.

Cuatro Rayas Viñedos Centenarios Verdejo (Rueda) 2009: From 10 year-old vines, this wine has a nice nose of fresh, lightly creamed but vibrant fruit with a leafy, yellow-green character. A touch of herby sweetness on the palate, but overall fresh, with good bite. A nice wine. 16/20

Bodegas Castro Martin A20 Albariño (Rias Baixas) 2008: A smooth but stony fruit character on the nose, and a vibrant, textured layer of sweet fruit on the palate to follow on. Polished, with moderate acidity, and a good, solid substance, and even a touch of grip towards the end. Nice wine. 16/20

Dinastia Vivanco Rioja Viura Malvasia 2009: An oaked blend of these two varieties. Fresh and lively fruit on the nose, with light green-tinged fruit. A nicely styled palate, fresh and gently textured, with good and vibrant fruit acids. Notes of capsicum and greengage. Vibrant, although with a softly fading finish. Good wine. 15.5/20

Bisol Jeio Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Brut NV: This is 90% Prosecco, 6% Pinot Bianco and 4% Verdiso. A very light and fresh nose here, with clean, white, floral fruits. Rather a bright style on the palate, only just off-dry, with a firm and dense character. Fresh, floral and pebbly as indicated by the nose, with lots of vigour and savouriness. 16/20

Bisol Crede Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Brut 2008: This is 85% Prosecco, 10% Pinot Bianco and 5% Verdiso. This has a really nice, bright, summery style on the nose, and a deeper quality of fruit, minerally with a crystalline white character. A lovely weight on the palate, broader, very fresh and yet with some good depth and minerals as on the nose. A really good style. 17/20

Bisol Jeio Rosé NV: This is a blend of Merlot and Pinot Noir. Stony red fruits on the nose, and a bright palate, crisp with good acidity. Chalky raspberry fruit, just a touch of ash. Very accessible, certainly with some savoury elements too. Nice summertime drinking. 15.5/20

Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio Dolomiti (Alto Adige) 2008: Under screwcap. Lean fruit on the nose here, with a fleeting touch of bacon fat which seemed to disappear as quickly as it had appeared. Nicely composed on the palate, good harmony, with a linear acidity cutting right through the middle. It slowly builds substance in the middle, but remains stony-fresh, with a harmonious finish. Very good. 16.5/20

Alois Lageder Chardonnay Pinot Grigio Biodynamic (Alto Adige) 2008: Demeter certified. Clean fruit on the nose here, good substance on the palate too, textured but also well-framed. Fresh, quite flavoursome, with a nice acid core. This keeps a good sense of harmony between flavour, structure and freshness. Very good. 16.5/20

Ceretto Langhe Arneis Blanc (Piedmont) 2009: Not a very expressive nose here, although it has a really nice style on the palate. The fruit has an appealing, slightly bitter citrus quality, and it is underpinned by plenty of tingling acidity. The texture is one of a softly polished shell of fruit. It is very primary at present, but it has admirable grip and vigour. 16.5/20

Riva Leone Gavi (Piedmont) 2009: A pale green hue here, and a very neutral chalky-fruit nose. The palate is fresh and herb-tinged, attractive, with fresh acidity and a nicely judged texture. Firmly underpinned. A good if rather understated style. 15.5/20

JVBILVM Pinot Grigio Zibibbo (Sicily) 2009: This has a perfumed, chalky, orange peel, rose petal and Turkish Delight character here - you can't complain about provision of aroma here! It has the same open character on the palate, with a soft richness, rather plump overall although there is some nice acidity hidden beneath. Certainly interesting and a must-try for lovers of perfumed, aromatic wines. 15/20

Villa dei Fiori Fiano (Sicily) 2009: Not a very expressive nose here, just a touch of polished stone. Lovely substance on the palate, textured, weighty, with an appealing savoury grip. Solid in the finish. This could be really very good. Good value too looking at Bibendum's trade price. 15.5/20

Graham Beck Brut (Robertson) NV: Cap classique method, 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir. Smoke and stone on the nose, very firmly styled. A nice, bright fruit on the palate, a very firm acid core, a punchy style with a vigorous, mouth-dominating mousse. Simple but well-framed and will make for nice, unfussy drinking. 15/20

Graham Beck Brut Rosé (Robertson) NV: Cap classique method, 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir. Lightly chalky fruit on the nose, very gentle in terms of character. A soft style is found on the palate, fresh, slightly leafy, with lots of acid backbone. Fresh and pleasing. 15/20

Grover Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc (Nandi Hills) 2009: Under screwcap. A fresh fruit nose here, full, with a slightly chewy and also herby character to it. The palate has a good composition, substantial but balanced, with a nice lemon-creamy texture. Gentle but undeniable acidity, and a spicy finish. A good effort. 16/20

Wither Hills Rarangi Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) 2008: Almost water-clear on inspection, with a rather grassy nose. Nicely textured, notes of lemon and face cream. Lots of capsicum, tomato leaf too. Elegant substance, but the flavours don't appeal here. 13.5/20

Petaluma Viognier (Adelaide Hills) 2006: Remarkably this still shows a trace of sulphur on the nose. Quite a fleshy palate, the effect of residual sugar I suspect, and perhaps hence the sulphur? Beneath there is a nice substance, good grip for the variety, with balanced and spicy acids. But it is very difficult to judge. The less sulphur-sensitive may find it drinkable, I am less interested. No score.

Stonier Chardonnay (Mornington Peninsula) 2008: Under screwcap. A nice, grainy, golden, butterscotch-oak nose here. Some substance on the palate, elegant definition, bright and delineated. Honey and cashew nut oak at present. This is classically composed with good appeal. Needs a little time to let the oak integrate but should be very good. 17+/20

D'Arenberg The Stump Jump (Barossa Valley) 2008: Under screwcap. This unorthodox blend of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Marsanne has a fresh green fruit character, a mix of smoke and kiwi. Very soft on the palate, fleshy, gentle acidity, light in character and lacking focus. 13/20

Valdivieso Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Lontue) 2008: Under screwcap. This has light and watery but somehow quite expressive fruit on the nose, with a light, chalky character. The fruit has moderate concentration on the palate, fresh and rather pithy in character, with peppery acidity. A nice substance here. 15/20

Valdivieso Eclat Botrytis Semillon (Lontue) 2007: From a half bottle. Lovely, honeyed pineapple and mango on the nose, with nuances of crystalline plum. Hugely sweet and very intense on the palate, with lots of texture as a result. Vibrant acidity. Impressive richness and fresh fruit flavour but not a lot of botrytis, and I find the substance a touch over the top. Good though. 15.5/20