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Schlumberger

The Schlumberger family originated in Souabe (a region on the border of Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg) in Germany, although as early as the 16th Century one member, Claus Schlumberger, had (albeit temporarily) settled in Guebwiller, where Domaines Schlumberger is now based. Claus found the strict rule of the Abbés de Murbach untenable, however, and he swiftly relocated to Mulhouse. Over the years that followed there was much interaction between the two branches of the family, and after Claus' death subsequent generations also settled in Mulhouse, including Peter Schlumberger in the late 18th Century. It was Peter's son, Nicolas, that was responsible for establishing, perhaps unwittingly at first, what would become the largest family owned domaine in Alsace. Nicolas was an industrialist, and in 1810 he inaugurated a textiles factory in Guebwiller. Following the Revolution, the rule of the Princes Abbés had been broken, and many properties and estates were broken up and sold off. He purchased a tract of land for his new factory which included 20 hectares of vineyards, an acquisition that has perhaps been of more benefit to his descendants than any of his industrial ventures.

Nicolas had nine children, of which one in particular, Jean Schlumberger, took the greatest interest in the family business after his father's death in 1867. From him the vineyards passed to his son Ernest, and then his grandson, also Ernest. The younger Ernest married a German cousin, Christine Schlumberger, and had two daughters, Anne and Clarisse. It is this branch of the family to which we owe most, as Ernest devoted his life to his vineyards, replanting extensively following the devastation of Phylloxera, and increasing the vineyard holdings which then stood at 40 hectares up to 110 hectares, a figure very close to that owned by the family today. The contribution made by these two generations is today celebrated in the Schlumberger nomenclature, the three top cuvées being named after Christine, Anne and Clarisse. With the death of Christine in 1971 control of Domaines Schlumberger fell to Clarisse's sons, Eric and Alain Beydon-Schlumberger, but since then the mantle has already passed onto the next generation. Today Domaines Schlumberger is in the hands of the delightful Séverine Schlumberger.

With the largest vineyard holdings of any domaine in Alsace, it seems unlikely that Domaines Schlumberger should also be one of the more reliable producers of the region. Yet they are, despite harvesting over 120 hectares of vines each year, including over 50 hectares in four Grands Crus; Kitterlé, Saering, Kessler and Spiegel. Most remarkably, the vineyards provide Schlumberger with 100% of their harvest, the family buying in no fruit or unfinished wine from other growers. They range in altitude from 250 to 380 m, and run up very steep hillsides with a gradient of up to 50% in places, which has been ameliorated by the terracing implemented by Ernest Schlumberger. It also necessitates the use of animals to work the land, rather than agricultural machinery, and the family keep four horses with this exact purpose in mind. The soils, light and sandy with a pink sandstone base, are planted with grass between the rows of vines, and the harvest is manual with yields between 47 and over 60 hl/ha.

The portfolio of wines opens with the generic Princes Abbés range, which incorporates all the usual Alsace varieties, from Pinot Blanc to Pinot Noir. These may include fruit from young vines within the Grands Crus, but are largely sourced from Schlumberger's lieux-dits, namely Bux, Bollenberg and Schimberg. Notable wines include the Pinot Blanc, which is predominantly Auxerrois rather than Pinot Blanc per se, and the Pinot Noir, 40% of which is sourced from vines planted on a sandy-limestone terroir in Grand Cru Saering. There are also the Riesling Vent d'Est and S de Schlumberger cuvées, the former a more fruit driven, modern style than the more traditional Princes Abbés Riesling, the latter an edelzwicker-type blend, using fruit from the lieux-dits Schimberg and Bux, as well as young vines from the Grand Cru vineyards. The S de Schlumberger is a fine example of the style, but the quality really steps up with the wines made exclusively from Grand Cru vines, which includes Saering (Riesling), Spiegel (Pinot Gris), Kessler (Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer) and Kitterlé (Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer). The pinnacle, however, is reached with the Schlumberger Collection, which comprises four wines, all Grand Cru, two Pinot Gris and two Gewurztraminer;

• Cuvée Christine: named for Séverine's great-grandmother, a vendange tardive (November is typical) Gewurztraminer sourced exclusively from Grand Cru Kessler.
• Cuvée Anne: named for Séverine's grandmother, a sélection de grains nobles, again Gewurztraminer sourced exclusively from Grand Cru Kessler.
• Pinot Gris Vendange Tardives: a cuvée just crying out for an eponymous name in my opinion. This is a vendange tardive wine sourced from Grand Cru Kessler.
• Cuvée Clarisse: famed for Anne's sister, Séverine's great aunt. This is also a sélection de grains nobles, this time made from Pinot Gris sourced from Grand Cru Spiegel. It is rarely produced, with just five vintages to date, these being the 1964, 1989, 1997, 1998 and 2000.

With 120 hectares of vines it might be reasonable to expect there to be some sacrifice of quality for the sake of quantity, but I would not agree with this offhand assessment. I have had several chances to taste through the Schlumberger range now, and have consumed some bottles at home with dinner. There is good quality here. Admittedly it is the late harvest and botrytised wines that provide the truly exceptional high points, but there is also good character throughout much of the rest of the range, and the portfolio provides a strong varietal sense as well as being readily identified as typical of Alsace. What is more, with Séverine Schlumberger in charge I would expect things to continue in a positive fashion at Schlumberger. (3/1/02, updated 25/1/07)

Contact details:
Address: 100 rue Théodore Deck, 58501 Guebwillewer
Telephone: +33 (0) 3 89 74 27 00
Fax: +33 (0) 3 89 74 85 75
Internet: www.domaines-schlumberger.com

Schlumberger - Tasting Notes

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Domaines Schlumberger Gewurztraminer 'Fleur' 2004: Very, very typical Gewurztraminer on the nose, which has a pungent, soapy, perfumed character. A soft, soapy, Turkish Delight palate too, rather unfocused and lacking the concentration and structure to match the aromatics. I've never been a fan on lesser Gewurztraminers and this is no exception. 12/20 (November 2006)

Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Blanc 'Les Princes Abbés' 2004: Quite fresh, minerally nose, with a touch of floral fruit. Really quite characterful for a Pinot Blanc. Nicely styled palate, fresh and a little fleshy, with clean, crisp acidity. A nice wine, and a dramatic improvement on the 2003 which I didn't enjoy at all. 15/20 (November 2006)

Domaines Schlumberger Riesling 'Les Princes Abbés' 2004: An attractive nose, a little petrolly, and a little floral. Nice and clean although a touch confected on the palate, a little medicinal too, and some floral fruit. Unusual. Not my favourite generic Riesling. 14/20 (November 2006)

Domaines Schlumberger Riesling Grand Cru Saering 2004: Pungent and minerally nose here, with a good floral character and even a little lychee which is unusual for a Riesling , but not at all unattractive. In fact I find it very appealing. Youthful but well rounded palate, with soft acidity and a rather floral perfume coming through. This has a really nice style, and should cellar well. 16+/20 (November 2006)

Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Blanc 'Les Princes Abbés' 2003: Soft nose. Rounded palate, fairly indistinct flavour. Moderate acidity. Unremarkable. 13/20 (November 2004)

Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Gris 'Les Princes Abbés' 2003: An appealing nose but not really very open, but it has a nice, fruit salad character. Full, attractively styled palate, with moderate acidity which is a saving grace in this vintage. Full and rather peppery, I find this to have a rather attractive appeal. 15+/20 (November 2006)

Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Gris Grand Cru Kitterlé 2002: A very appealing nose here, plenty of fruit salad character with some notes of bacon. A full, textured and rather weighty palate, very expressive and displaying lots of varietal character like that on the nose. A touch of residual sugar helps to flesh it out to give an appealing, rounded mouthfeel. This is very nice indeed. 16.5+/20 (November 2006)

Domaines Schlumberger Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Kitterlé 2002: A good nose here, redolent of honey poured over lychees, and notes of bacon and pepper. The palate is rather full, stylish and well rounded. There is a little grip as backbone which deserves merit, but this is still rather soft and lacks direction, although it has a creamy appeal and some very typical perfume. Good. 15.5+/20 (November 2006)

Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Gris 'Les Princes Abbés' 2001: Somewhat closed nose. Some soft, tropical fruit. Pepper and spice nuances to the fruit on the palate. But it lacks balance, grip and impact. Unfocused. Shows nicely on the finish though. Perhaps it needs some bottle age to sharpen up. 13.5/20 (November 2004)

Domaines Schlumberger Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Kessler 2001: Very classic nose; perfume and lychees. A soapy, Turkish delight character on the palate, which is soft and slightly oily, and with quite insensible acidity. A very common style but not how I like Gewurz' - more acidity, focus and balance please. 14/20 (November 2004)

Domaines Schlumberger Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Kitterlé 2001: A less obvious nose. Fat, oily palate, but showing greater minerality and acidity than the Kessler. Still plenty of typical perfume though, with lovely weight, and nice orange and lychee flavour. Good. 15.5/20 (November 2004)

Domaines Schlumberger Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive Cuvée Christine 2001: A late harvest cuvée from the Grand Cru Kessler vineyard, usually sourced (as in this instance) from Plot 45. This has an appealing concentrated nose, full of lychees, honey and rosepetals. Full and sweetly textured on the palate, but delicately balanced and appealingly perfumed. Very attracive. Precisely composed and such delightful poise. Good length too. Very good indeed. 17+/20 (November 2006)

Domaines Schlumberger Gewurztraminer 'Les Princes Abbés' 2000: A fairly pale colour. Great varietal typicity on the nose, which is very musky and perfumed, with aromas of orange peel and lychees. On the palate there is typically low acid, with nice weight, a touch of spice and burnt bacon nuances. Nice lychee and blood orange fruit, and pleasing spice on the finish. An instructive example of this variety. 15.5/20 (January 2003)

Domaines Schlumberger Riesling Grand Cru Saering 2000: Great typicity on the nose, with classic steel and rock Riesling notes. Moderate concentration on the palate, Firm, very classic style, with some minerality. Softens out and shows a lack of focus past the midpalate though. Drink over the next few years. 14.5/20 (November 2004)

Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Gris Grand Cru Spiegel 1999: Closed nose. Nice weight here. A little oily nuance to the texture, which is present in spades. Good tropical fruit, very typical Pinot Gris. Will be lovely in 3-5 years. 16+/20 (November 2004)

Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Gris Grand Cru Kitterlé 1998: Much more perfume on the nose compared with the 1999 Spiegel, and more depth too I feel. Rich, again a little oily. Really good concentration for what is a weaker vintage. Good pepper and spice nuances. Very good. 16.5+/20 (November 2004)

Domaines Schlumberger Riesling Grand Cru Saering 1998: A pale golden wine. The nose belies the structure that awaits on the palate, as it carries aromas of minerals and glorious fruit with a citrus and honey edge. The palate has lovely weight which persists through to the finish. There's a tightness to the wine, with fresh acidity, but some great fruit. On the endpalate it really relaxes into a more open, obvious, fruit rich wine, with a honeyed streak. This note of honey lingers on a tasty length. 16.5+/20 (January 2002)

Domaines Schlumberger Gewurztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles Cuvée Anne 1998: Minerality here. Orange scents. Rich, huge, oily palate. Beautiful texture, and appreciable acidity too. Complex flavours, notes of tangerine juice. Great finish. Weighty stuff indeed. Drink over the next ten years. 18+/20 (November 2004)

Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Gris Grand Cru Kitterlé 1997: This is a richer and deeper colour than the Edelzwicker wine. The nose carries aromas of tropical fruit, and seems more meaty than the previous wine. On the palate, great fruit sits with an oily richness suggestive of residual sugar, although this is not a dominant feature. There is fine acidity, supporting the fruit through to a strong finish. Very clean. Overall, a good value example of Grand Cru Pinot Gris. 16/20 (January 2002)

Domaines Schlumberger Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Kessler 1997: A moderately coloured golden wine, the nose here carries aromas of smoking, gently frying bacon, bananas and plenty of spice. Great weight with low acidity on the palate, fairly typical for Gewurztraminer. Fat and slightly oily, with a sizeable amount of residual sugar, and a creamy edge. Plenty of flavour at the right temperature, mirroring the aromas found on the nose. There is some power on the finish, with plenty of spice. 16/20 (January 2002)

Tasting notes are ordered by date of tasting, most recent first. I have tried to indicate whether it is a tasting of a new release, or of a wine I have cellared.

Domaines Schlumberger Le "S" de Schlumberger NV: Current release. A lovely nose, full of lychee and elderflower freshness, seemingly dominated by Gewurztraminer although the wine is in fact a multi-vintage blend led by Pinot Blanc, with Riesling and Gewurztraminer playing second fiddle. Fresh, slightly fat on entry, with moderate acidity. More like Pinot Blanc on the palate, with fresh white fruits and less of the perfume evident on the nose. Clean, slightly oily finish, with a short bitter-quinine length. Exuberant, typically Alsatian, and deliciously easy to drink, especially on a summers day. 16.5/20 (June 2003)

Domaines Schlumberger Réserve NV: Current release. This has a very fresh nose that seems to be packed with fruit. No surprises with the palate then, which is also packed with dry fruit, with just some suggestion of richness towards the finish. There is a light texture, with a splash of spice to the fruit. This is a simple but delicious wine - the epitomy of what a good Edelzwicker wine should be. Excellent value for money. 15/20 (January 2002)