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Château Pierre-Bise

I have had the honour of meeting Claude Papin, proprietor of Château Pierre-Bise and doyen of Anjou viticulture, many times now. Not only at the Salon des Vins de Loire in Angers and at his domaine at the heart of the Anjou vineyard, in a little hamlet also named Pierre-Bise just off the D54, but also at tastings in London. Most notably his London appearances included the wonderful Stars of the Layon event in 2010, a lunch-come-tasting at the RSJ restaurant in London where Papin poured his wines alongside those from Yves Guégniard and Vincent Ogereau, viticultural peers and, unless I am very much mistaken, good friends too.

My numerous meetings with Claude have tended to stick in my mind perhaps because they can be so challenging and yet, at the same time, so rewarding. It is not the language barrier, although I have to follow Claude's words with a greater degree of concentration than I do some other vignerons, but rather his rich and multi-layered philosophies on viticulture, all of which are interwoven with a deep and considered knowledge of the many different terroirs which he works. It can be hard work, but a meeting with Claude Papin will always leave you feeling enriched. And if you find his viticultural theories a little too confusing, you can always concentrate on simply tasting his wines. In recent years the style has become a touch more challenging I think, with even more of an experimental edge, but the quality certainly remains very high.

The Papin Philosophy

My first ever visit to meet Claude opened my eyes to the Papin philosophy. As I arrived he greeted me warmly; this was to his credit it seemed, as he later explained that the first visitors of the day had arrived whilst he was still sleeping. Years later, as I reflect on this meeting, I wonder where the fault lay; were the visitors wine-eager early-birds, or was Claude merely slumbering late, the after-effect perhaps of wine-fuelled festivities the night before? Of course it has to be the former; after all, we all know the vignerons of Anjou never, ever party hard and late. This too-early and perhaps rude awakening hadn't dampened Claude's enthusiasm, however, and he soon escorted me into the family kitchen. Here, seated at his dinner table and armed with pen and his pad of headed notepaper, Papin began my introduction to his philosophy of wine, one which I have continued to explore during the years that have since elapsed.

At the core of the Papin philosophy lie three components - terroir, polyphenols and botrytis, even for his dry wines. Claude, a former President of the Technical Institute of the Vine and of Wine, works hard to ensure that his wines are what he calls vins de terroir rather than vins de variété; that is to say they express some aspect of their origin rather than simple, grape-derived characteristics alone. Papin believes that the development of polyphenols in the wine makes a significant contribution to vinous complexity and the expression of terroir, and that botrytis also has an important role to play. To explain his theory on the interplay between botrytis, polyphenols and the preservation of terroir-based complexity Papin made some sketches for me on some notepaper at his kitchen table.

Paraphrasing somewhat, Claude explained that as grapes ripen the sugar concentration increases, but at a certain point they also reach physiological maturity, signified by the change in colour of the pips (from green to yellow-brown). This is an important point in the development of the grape, as physiological maturity influences the style and type of tannins and acidity in the final wine. At this time Claude hopes for the onset of botrytis infection; a rapid shrivelling of the grapes as a result of botrytis will result in a vin de terroir, but in contrast a slowly progressive botrytis infection will result in a vin de variété. One reason for this may be the cleaving of polyphenols - complex substances which allow the grapes to express complexity and terroir - by Botrytis cinerea. In the event of slow and prolonged infection this process is exhaustive, reducing the terroir expression the polyphenols would have brought to the wine, whereas a rapid onset of rot with timely shrivelling of the fruit would reduce the negative impact on make this event much less likely, preserving the terroir-derived characteristics in the wine. It is a fascinating concept; I'm not convinced that there is any evidence for these thoughts, but the concept as a whole seems plausible.

In the vineyard Claude does not follow a strict organic and biodynamic policy, favouring the use of a minimal amount of agrochemicals to treat diseases as required. In fact some of his practises are in stark contrast to selected tenets of organic viticulture; one such principle is working the soil, in which vignerons turn over the topsoil in the rows between the vines, using a plough drawn perhaps by a tractor, or possibly even a horse if the dedication and belief is there. The intent is two-fold; first, control of grass and weeds thereby removing the need for herbicides, and secondly by returning this surface vegetation to the ground from where it originated, the soils are enriched. As far as Claude is concerned, the process does more harm than good, first compacting the soil unnecessarily, even if horses are employed, then disturbing the layers of the soil, exposing deeper microbes and increasing their exposure to oxygen. This results in excessive microbial turnover and nitrogen production which, in Claude's opinion, is detrimental to the vine. As for the post-harvest processes, in the cellars the freshly-picked fruit is pressed using pneumatic equipment before fermentation in a mix of older wooden vessels and steel, avoiding the use of added sugar, enzymes or yeasts. The élevage also employs wood and steel, and in recent years Claude has been experimenting with longer élevages.

The Pierre-Bise Wines and Vineyards

To illustrate his arguments about terroir and wine during that first meeting, Claude and I drove up into the hills behind Château Pierre-Bise. Here we walked among the Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chenin Blanc vines, and enjoyed our vista over what Papin regards as three distinct mesoclimates. The shrivelled remains of a green harvest littered the ground, lying adjacent to the grass that runs between the rows. The vines desperately threw runners that clawed their way towards the sky; Claude does not believe in pruning the vine during active growth. And on the vines themselves hung bunches of tiny, developing grapes, hopefully carrying the characteristics of the terroir on which the vines grew.

This was just one vineyard from amongst Claude's 60 hectares of vines, of which 40 hectares are devoted to Chenin Blanc in the Anjou, Savennières, Coteaux du Layon and Quarts de Chaume appellations. The remaining 20 hectares is planted principally to the two Cabernets and Gamay. From this broad array of vineyards Claude produces an admirable portfolio of wines, white and red, dry and sweet, all of which have the potential to impress.

The best known white cuvée is the Anjou Haut de la Garde, sourced from a north to north-west facing vineyard on the south bank of the Loire with a mixed terroir of schist, sandstone and rhyolite, an igneous rock with a high silica content. Just across the river lie the vineyards of Savennières including the two crus Coulée de Serrant and Roche aux Moines, which have a similar terroir to the Haut de la Garde. At the top of the Haut de la Garde slope is Les Rayelles, source of the fruit for one of Papin's Coteaux du Layon cuvées, although the exact proportions of fruit that go into the sweet Layon as opposed to the dry Anjou depends on the vintage and the quantity of botrytised grapes.

Papin also produces a range of red wines from the two Cabernets and Gamay grown on schistous and carboniferous soils, bottled under the Anjou-Villages and Anjou-Gamay appellations. Some would argue that these are among the finest red wines in the Loire, and I would not argue against that point, although there is plenty of competition from further upstream. Nevertheless, although these wines have not been anointed with a more defining appellation such as Chinon or Bourgueil, they should not be ignored. The Anjou-Gamay can be particularly good, even if the Cabernets do tend to show a typical schisty spice that betrays their Anjou origins.

Alongside the sometimes formidable Anjou Haut de la Garde Papin's other great strength, as far as his dry wines are concerned at least, is his small array of Savennières cuvées. The first of these three wines that I ever tasted was the Clos de Coulaine, a cuvée wearing a rather plainer label than is usual for Pierre-Bise, and ascribed not to Claude Papin alone but the mysterious partnership of Papin-Chevalier. This small but important difference reflects the history of Pierre-Bise, and its proprietors Claude and Joëlle Papin, nee Chevalier - hence Papin-Chevalier. Through this union which took place in 1972 Claude acquired 30 hectares of vines brought into the family by Joëlle, and very soon afterwards, in 1974, he took over from his father at Pierre-Bise. Today the Papin family, Claude and Joëlle and their two sons René and Christophe, own a portfolio of vines in numerous communes and appellations; the vines of the Clos de Coulaine are not, however, included in this diverse assortment of vineyards. They do not originate from Joëlle's family (as might be assumed from the Papin-Chevalier moniker) but are in fact rented vines, and it is this that drives the distinction between the Clos de Coulaine and the other Pierre-Bise labels.

It was in 1992 that the Papin family began to rent vines in the Clos de Coulaine from the retiring François Roussier. The vineyard is located near the southern end of the appellation, which runs alongside the Loire in a south-west to north-east alignment. There are 4.5 hectares of Chenin Blanc vines here (as well as a similar area planted to Cabernet Franc) planted on deep, silty-sandy soils over sandstone and schist. The vines are fairly young, dating from the year Claude and Joëlle took on the vineyard, nevertheless the wines this site yields are of a fine quality totally in keeping with the rest of the Papin portfolio in my experience, and for that reason - although perhaps also for simplicity's sake - I hope you will forgive me if I continue to perpetuate my small confusion by referring to this wine as originating from Château Pierre-Bise rather than Papin-Chevalier.

This has been a fine and yet very affordable example of the appellation, very drinkable in its youth and yet with great potential for development in bottle, although they can go through a prolonged 'dead phase' when there is no pleasure to be gained through opening one. Despite rumours that this wine was to no longer play a part in the Pierre-Bise portfolio, I ascertained during a visit to the domaine in 2007 that this was not the case, and that Papin, for the time being at least, has maintained his lease here. These rumours followed Papin's acquisition of two other plots in the Savennières appellation, including a section of the Clos le Grand Beaupréau. This vineyard is part of the larger Moulin de Beaupréau vineyard (where Eric Morgat and Domaine Mosse own vines) which altogether covers just short of 16 hectares, 6.1 hectares being the Clos le Grand Beaupréau. The clos is in the ownership of Claude and his two comrades-in-arms, Yves Guégniard and Vincent Ogereau. Claude takes the largest chunk, 2.5 hectares, with Vincent looking after 2 hectares and Yves bringing up the rear with 1.6 hectares. The entire vineyard was previously exploited by Pierre Soulez, as recently as 2004; both Claude and Vincent took over sections he rented, beginning with the 2005 vintage, whereas Yves purchased his vines from Soulez. The vines here are older than those in the Clos de Coulaine, the soils sandy at the surface, with deeper seams of schist and phthanite, a sedimentary microcrystalline quartz rock (which, for the geologically curious, places it alongside flint as a type of chert). The wines that result can be impressive and, taken alongside those of Yves Guégniard and Vincent Ogereau, they make for fascinating comparative tastings

The same year Claude took on the Clos le Grand Beaupréau he also acquired a small plot of vines in the coveted cru Roche aux Moines. His first year with full responsibility for these vines throughout the entire growing season was therefore not until the 2005 vintage, a wine which - when I first tasted it during the summer of 2007 on visiting the domaine - was simply breath-taking in its freshness and its purity. This may of course reflect the exalted terroir, which is a mix of volcanic metamorphic rocks dominated by red schist but nuanced by areas of rhyolite, spilite and phthanite. This first vintage from this little vineyard will be fascinating to revisit in coming years, and thankfully I have more than a few bottles tucked away so that I may do so.

I once wrote that it was with his range of sweet wines from the Coteaux du Layon appellations that Château Pierre-Bise really entered the premier league of Loire estates. To hold that opinion now would be incorrect I feel, as Claude has already qualified with his trio of Savennières cuvées, especially the stunning wine from the Roches aux Moines cru. Nevertheless, an exploration of his sweet cuvées does allow something more of Claude's character to shine through, especially his deep understanding of the local soils and geology, and how this manifests in his range of Coteaux du Layon cuvées, each of which relates to a specific vineyard and terroir.

As I have already written, Claude resides in a small hamlet just off the D54, very close to Beaulieu sur Layon, and so it is no surprise that his portfolio of Layon cuvées have the Coteau du Layon Beaulieu appellation. There is one exception though, and that is Les Rayelles, a cuvée of extraordinarily rich potential made from fruit originating from the upper slopes of the Haut de la Garde vineyard, as explained in my account of Claude's Anjou cuvées above. The other wines are from Beaulieu vineyards though, there being a trio which begins with Les Rouannières, with a terroir largely of volcanic spilite, a rock known locally as pierre bise and which is embodied not only in the name of Claude's domaine, but also in the name of the hamlet where the Papin family reside. The Chenin vines planted in Les Rouannières produce what may well be Claude's greatest example of Coteaux du Layon, but there are also both Cabernets and Gamay, this vineyard being the source of the aforementioned Anjou reds.

Claude's next Layon climat is the Clos de la Soucherie, another fine source of Coteaux du Layon, in this case from a predominantly carboniferous terroir. In ancient times this land was a great forest, and today the bedrock here is rich in the lapidified remains of these trees, although the soils themselves are also in some areas peppered with more igneous rocks known as pierre carré. Finally in his Beaulieu trio is L'Anclaie, a vineyard which sits atop the slope above the Layon, leaving it more exposed to local winds and distancing it a little from the river mists which encourage botrytis. It has a complex terroir, very schistous with more of the aforementioned phthanite. Although many might regard Les Rouannières as the domaine's premier vineyard in the Coteaux du Layon appellation, these latter two sites have great capability and my experiences with the wines has on occasion been breathtaking.

After the village appellations of the Coteaux du Layon, such as Beaulieu and Rochefort, comes Chaume; although long classified as one of these special villages Chaume has always yielded a distinctive wine, and today as that truth slowly gains recognition from the INAO (despite the protestations of some) it seems appropriate to consider it alongside the Quarts de Chaume. Papin owns a number of vineyards in this important appellation, taking in much of the diverse terroir that exists here, including schist, spilite, phthanite, quartz and again some carboniferous soils. The wines can be stunning, especially with a suitable amount of bottle age. And just a little further downstream is the Quarts de Chaume of course, one of the two crus of the Coteaux du Layon, spread over a number of slopes not very far at all from the Papin residence. The vines in both appellations are of a good age, over 50 years old, and with their exposed positions they also experience more drying breezes, which no doubt contribute to rapid dehydration of the fruit and, if we adhere to Claude's philosophies, more complex wines as a result. Whatever the situation though, tasting these two wines quickly inform us that, as is the case with all the sweet wines in the Pierre-Bise portfolio, they are superb examples of the appellation.

The proof, as they say, is in the pudding, and after my sojourn in the vineyards on that first visit I returned with Papin to his house in order to taste the wines of Château Pierre-Bise, just as I have done with him many times since. As I worked my way through the range Papin exhibited another skill, as he entertained my three youngsters with some sleight of hand probably first used to entertain his own sons René and Christophe. They are now grown up (with children of their own) and taking an active interest in the family estate; nevertheless it was 2011 before I actually met them both. Christophe spends more time tending the vineyards, whereas René, who studied oenology in Dijon, is more likely to be found in the cellar. No tricks with disappearing corks, however, could distract me from Claude's wines; here is an impressive range indeed. Subsequent visits and tastings of the wines have served only to confirm my thought that Claude Papin, and Château Pierre-Bise, are truly leading lights in all of the appellations of Anjou. (18/9/03, updated 14/9/07, 19/3/09, 8/3/11)

Contact details:
Address: 49750 Beaulieu sur Layon
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 78 31 44
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 78 41 24

Château Pierre-Bise - Tasting Notes

Claude Papin fashions a broad portfolio of wines from across the Anjou appellations. In order to try and maintain a sense of order I have divided my tasting notes up within each vintage, beginning with Anjou (regardless of it being white or red) followed by Savennières (Clos de Coulaine, Clos le Grand Beaupréau then Roches aux Moines) and then the sweet wines of the Coteaux du Layon and Quarts de Chaume appellations. The Layon vineyards are presented in the following order; Beaulieu first (Rouannières, Clos de la Soucherie and L'Anclaie) then Rochefort (Rayelles) then Chaume and Quarts de Chaume. Where a wine has been tasted more than once the most recent note is presented first. Click to locate stockists.

Cabernet d'Anjou

Château Pierre-Bise Cabernet d'Anjou 2010: This has just been bottled. Carbonic maceration, if I understood Claude correctly, and there is 60-65 g/l residual sugar. The nose has a typically sweet and open style, smoky too. Sweet fruits. Good substance on the palate, although with a rather medicinal cherry streak. Good acids. In the finish some more savoury fruit character which I like. Full and sweet, although I wouldn't have thought as high as 60 g/l. Certainly interesting but not my style. From a 2011 Pierre-Bise update. 14/20 (January 2011)

Anjou Blanc & Rouge

Château Pierre-Bise Anjou-Villages Sur Schistes 2009: Dark and spicy black fruits here, fresh and lifted but with a very firm depth. Forest fruits, black cherry especially. Good substance on the palate, round and attractive, but with a good backbone of tannin. A drier structure showing in the finish and a creamed fruit character. Very ripe and almost chewy tannic core. Lots of lively acidity too. An attractive dark character, beautifully composed but with a very robust backbone to it. Needs time. From a 2011 Pierre-Bise update. 16-17/20 (January 2011)

Château Pierre-Bise Anjou-Villages Sur Spilite 2009: Rather more hedonistic fruit character on the nose here, with a very pure and bright style. And on the palate a softer and more supple style although with a very certain, precise and crunchy acidity coming in through the middle. More silky character to the tannins here, although they still have a very strong presence on the finish. Good substance to it. Very interesting potential. Needs time. From a 2011 Pierre-Bise update. 16-17/20 (January 2011)

Savennières

Château Pierre Bise Savennières Clos de la Coulaine 2009: A rather more dense style on the nose here, with a golden, dried-fruit character rather more apparent. This starts off with a soft and pillowy entry, but then firms up in the midpalate where the structure begins to dominate over the fruit, showing a good grippy frame and also a very precise, central core of acidity. The more golden, dried fruits still show here, but the richness and exuberant character is nicely kept in check by the structure. This is really lovely wine, broadening out beautifully. Long and grippy too. From a Loire 2009 tasting. 17/20 (January 2011)

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos de Coulaine 2009: Fermented approximately 50% en cuve and approximately 50% in wood. Malolactic fermentation 100%. Only just bottled. Fresh and clear, with a very clean style on the nose. Also very fresh and easy on the palate, initially at least, then showing a lot more structure in the midpalate, with a powerful acid backbone and a lot of grip. Firm and austere, despite my first impressions. A good and supple style, but powerful and definitely one that needs the cellar. Showing a tinge of baked apples in the background. From a 2011 Pierre-Bise update. 17/20 (January 2011)

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos de Coulaine 2009: This starts off with a surprisingly inexpressive nose, although it soon opens out to reveal some perfumed fruit character, presented in a stylish, well-defined manner. It has a very fine and supple feel in the mouth, with lots of polish and harmony. Quite spicy and peppery with notes of yellow plum-skin in the finish, where it shows a little more of its structure. Very good potential here. From an RSJ tasting. 16.5-17+/20 (September 2010)

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos le Grand Beaupréau 2009: Schist and siliceous terroir. Fermented approximately 50% en cuve and approximately 50% in wood. Malolactic fermentation 100%. More honeyed and mineral than Coulaine, with seashell and oyster clarity, showing a fresh, saline minerality. The same start on the palate, showing more substance in the middle, but not the overt power of the Coulaine. More controlled and composed, but still a huge structure and plenty of acid here. Good overall substance, lots of power, and a firm, austere finish. From a 2011 Pierre-Bise update. 17/20 (January 2011)

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos le Grand Beaupréau 2009: This is plainly much more structured than the Haut de la Garde, showing on this tasting a steely, stony, tightly coiled composition. The palate is restrained, with similarly tight fruit here, refined and mineral, with just the lightest touch of honeyed warmth. very good potential here. From a 2010 Pierre-Bise update. 16.5-17.5/20 (July 2010)

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Roches aux Moines 2009: The fermentation here is 100% in wood. Malolactic fermentation 90-95%. This shows very little on the nose, clearly a more reserved style, although there is still a very precise and direct style of fruit here. On the palate it is very much more reined in than the first two, showing a less angular character, more polished, with all of its corners shaved off. But there is still a very dense structure to it. Overall this has a beautiful style, and is just full of potential for the cellar. From a 2011 Pierre-Bise update. 17-18/20 (January 2011)

Coteaux du Layon & Quarts de Chaume

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Rouannières 2009: A very pure and precise character on the nose, quite reserved though, with a softness to the fruit. Lovely sweet style on the palate, a fine presence, also quite firm and structured underneath the fruit. Good minerality here cutting through it, but the acidity although at first subtle soon rolls up through the middle of the wine. A very dense and sweet style, all honey, quince and beeswax rather than the vibrancy of brighter vintages. Very good though, as it has the requisite acidity. From a 2011 Pierre-Bise update. 17.5/20 (January 2011)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Rochefort Les Rayelles 2009: A good depth of character here, golden honeyed fruit on the nose, clean and rich, with nuances of quince and honeyed tea. On the palate a very soft and broad style, then more acidity through the middle. An attractive minerally seam here and towards the finish a more savoury, reined-in style. There is plenty of grip to it, a good and tangible substance and extract too, bringing that mineral edge but the style has a rather soft acidity. Moderately long. From a 2011 Pierre-Bise update. 16.5/20 (January 2011)

Château Pierre-Bise Chaume 2009: Not so expressive on the nose, opening out to give notes of honey, with a brighter quince and mineral, herbal tea character. The palate has a fine elegance, showing a lovely wealth of sweet botrytised fruit and also a plenty of very classic acidity. Lots of savoury substance here, plenty of defining acidity too. This wine has a great presence on the palate, showing all the structure and depth it will need as it evolves in the cellar. From a 2011 Pierre-Bise update. 18.5/20 (January 2011)

Château Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume 2009: A more dense, golden hue here than the Chaume. The nose has more to give as well, a more quartzy, quincy, herbal and mineral style with lots of sweet suggestion. This is true on the palate which has a rich depth with a lot of appropriate texture and delightfully candied golden fruits. The complexity isn't here yet but the profound depth of character is. And there is good acidity backing it up although it is rather subdued at the start, perhaps somewhat subsumed by the pure substance of the wine, but in the midpalate it is much firmer. A good vein of spicy minerals here too. It culminates in a splendid finish with a lot of potential here. Fine. From a 2011 Pierre-Bise update. 18.5/20 (January 2011)

Anjou Blanc & Rouge

Château Pierre-Bise Anjou Blanc Le Haut de la Garde 2008: This version of the 2008 Haut de la Garde was bottled later than the norm, moving into cuve for a second year when the first wine was being bottled. It has a very clean nose, less caramelly than the first wine, with a more polished texture also. It still has the same austere structure but it also has a straighter and more defined feel to it. A great finish, showing lots of structure and good length. Seems quite grippy here too. This is impressive, and set for the long haul. From a 2011 Pierre-Bise update. 17/20 (January 2011)

Château Pierre-Bise Anjou Blanc Le Haut de la Garde 2008: From a vineyard that lies opposite the Roches aux Moines, but still 1 km distant - the valley itself is very wide at this point. Fermented in wood and cuve, the same for the élevage. I just love the character on the nose, all crunchy caramel-tinged fruit. Very fresh on the palate though, lots of minerality and substance here, with bright acidity too. Good grip, throughout especially at the finish. Showing a gentler style than the Savennières cuvées but not intrinsically soft; indeed, it seems remarkably austere and structured on this tasting. From a 2011 Pierre-Bise update. 17/20 (January 2011)

Château Pierre-Bise Anjou Blanc Le Haut de la Garde 2008: Fermentation partly en inox, partly in used oak, slowly over 8-12 months usually. It has that soft, warm, plump, ripe fruit character that it can show in youth, a sort of sweet dessert-apple aroma. This is certainly appealing. Rather soft on entry, broadening out in the midpalate, showing more ripe and soft apple character, cut through in the middle by a building minerality and nice acidity too. Fleshy but brought to life by its mineral core, so overall admirable, and this will get better in the cellar too I am sure. From an RSJ tasting. 16.5+/20 (September 2010)

Château Pierre-Bise Anjou Blanc Le Haut de la Garde 2008: Really attractive apples and pears on the nose of this youthful wine. It has an appealing lightness, slightly stony, leaning towards that papery style some young Chenin can show. On the palate good character, stony texture as the nose suggested, with a medium-weight body. Attractive wine. From a 2010 Pierre-Bise update. 15.5-16.5+/20 (July 2010)

Château Pierre-Bise Anjou Gamay Sur Spilite 2008: A really intensely coloured crimson hue, so bright and vibrant. Rather gamey on the nose, wild and warm, slightly stewed fruit character, very ripe I think. The palate has a lovely violet-floral edge though, with its dark, spicy, peppery fruit behind, and is certainly complex and interesting at the back of the palate. The structure of the wine consists of some ripe, almost chewy tannins which pepper the finish, with some soft acidity. Nice wine. From an RSJ tasting. 15.5-16+/20 (September 2010)

Château Pierre-Bise Anjou-Villages Schistes 2008: This wine has a layer of dark, concentrated but still very vibrant fruit on the nose, with a very spicy, schisty character to it. There is a suppleness to the texture, but also a spicy, clove-tinged Anjou-schist terroir element too, backed up by plenty of peppery acids. Fine and vigorous. And very Anjou. From an RSJ tasting. 15+/20 (September 2010)

Savennières

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos le Grand Beaupréau 2008: From a 2.5-hectare clos within the Savennières appellation (Claude has about 13 hectares in this appellation in total). A very fine nose, pure and stylish, with a wealth of lightly honeyed fruit, polished and creamy but without the overt sweetness of honey. A beautifully composed style on palate, supple and fairly rich, with a softer acid backbone than the Bergerie wines but this builds again in the midpalate. Overall this has plenty of style, with a good contrast between the soft fruit and the crisp mineral core. From an RSJ tasting. 17+/20 (September 2010)

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Roches aux Moines 2008: A denser, more defined and more mineral nose than the Grand Beaupréau. Pure, well-honed, mineral-tinged fruit on the nose, tighter in terms of style, but much more expressive in terms of aroma of pure fruit character. Fresh, broad, finely fruited, with a stony, mineral quality running right throughout the palate. Big, fleshy, but well-framed, with again great acidity coming through the middle and end. This is delicious with superb potential. From an RSJ tasting. 18+/20 (September 2010)

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Roches-aux-Moines 2008: This is clearly a step up from the Grand Beaupréau although it is a different vintage of course. The nose is well defined, with minerally-stony elements around the fruit, along with a little straw. On the palate it shows a much greater definition, sappy, pithy and bitter, a linear style giving fine structure to the substance. Tightly coiled, bright acidity, finely composed, a little austere even, with some depth, this is a very good wine which should be destined for the cellar. From a 2010 Pierre-Bise update. 17.5-18+/20 (July 2010)

Coteaux du Layon & Quarts de Chaume

Château Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume 2008: This vintage has a summery, mid-gold hue, and not the depth or richness of colour that we might expect from this appellation. The nose offers a very reserved character, with some nuances of honey sweetness, although this is a minor element in a complex array of straw, menthol, crunchy yellow plum and the zest of oranges and lemons. As the nose suggests not a majorly sweet wine on the palate, mid-gold fruits, with a sweet but also slightly bitter character. Structured, lightly crystalline, but more in the vein of sugar-coated sage than anything opulent. Nice grip. A little soft-focus in the finish. This needs time to show its best. One for the purist terroirists rather than the hedonists. From a 2010 Pierre-Bise update. 16+/20 (July 2010)

Anjou Blanc & Rouge

Château Pierre-Bise Anjou Blanc Le Haut de la Garde 2007: This has a rather more honeyed feel than the 2008, softer and quite well polished, attractive, with gently creamed yellow fruit. The palate has a big and impressive structure though, lots of minerality despite the aromatic plushness, and lots of acidity too. Good style here, with evolving polished and gentle maturity but with a very straight supporting structure. Top flight but it needs time. From a 2011 Pierre-Bise update. 17.5/20 (January 2011)

Château Pierre-Bise Anjou Blanc Le Haut de la Garde 2007: This is certainly more open and accessible than the 2008 tasted alongside, and against the apples and pears also evident here we have a touch of honey too, and overall this seems more attractive right now. A good, toothsome style on the palate, evolved and quite seductive, although softly textured. Good. From a 2010 Pierre-Bise update. 16.5+/20 (July 2010)

Château Pierre-Bise Anjou Blanc Le Haut de la Garde 2007: Good ripe fruit here, with a very rich and forward character. Quite firm and precise on the palate, peppery, rather stylish, with a fine midpalate texture. I sense some power beneath the pepper and spice here. This is good wine. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Savennières

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos de Coulaine 2007: This wine is not so expressive as the Haut de la Garde on the nose, but it expresses some dried fruit nuances. There is finesse on the palate; lively acids and a gentle structure although it has a good backbone overall. It is perhaps a touch diffuse today. Good potential though. An update from the 2009 Salon. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos le Grand Beaupréau 2007: This has a great nose, with lively, mineral Chenin character with a bright and appealing style. The palate is polished, gentle and integrated, with a little honey fatness. Broad, laden with minerality, stylish and fine, this wine needs to firm up a little but this may well come in bottle. This should be very good in time. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Roches-aux-Moines 2007: The Papin family own 2 hectares (out of 33 available) of the Roches-aux-Moines cru, with 1.3 hectares in production. Another impressive nose here, tinged with honey and caramel, with deep and complex layers of flavours. Fat but balanced, with a minerally midpalate structure and a fine, elegant composition throughout. Not up to my memories of the 2005 but certainly a lovely wine. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Coteaux du Layon & Quarts de Chaume

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Rouannières 2007: Like the Clos de la Soucherie tasted alongside, this wine shows a sweet and crystalline fruit character. The palate is impressive, perhaps rather more minerally and punchy than the Soucherie, although again very much a wine that depends more on passerillage more than botrytis. From a 2010 Pierre-Bise update. 16.5+/20 (July 2010)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Rouannières 2007: A very attractive nose, more withdrawn than the Soucherie, subtle, but still showing ripe, golden and honeyed characters. Showing more finesse though; good minerally acidity, notes of pepper, overall a fine character here. Although a little soft-focus towards the end it shows more definition. This could come very good. An update from the 2009 Salon. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Clos de la Soucherie 2007: This comes from a vintage renowned for delightfully sweet and crystalline wines formed more by passerillage than by botrytis, and this is the case here. Lovely fresh fruit on the nose, gently sweet and very supple, with good style. The palate shows good sweetness and fruit intensity. It has a fine long character though and is sure to develop some delicious secondary characteristics, given adequate time. From an RSJ tasting. 16.5+/20 (September 2010)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Clos de la Soucherie 2007: This has great character on the nose, full of sweet fruit. I don't find the botrytis I noted last time, and in fact this seems more raisined in character. This palate has a certain style, crystalline and defined, with perfectly honed fruit sitting within an appealingly fresh frame. This seems to have tightened up somewhat since my last tasting. From a 2010 Pierre-Bise update. 16.5+/20 (July 2010)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Clos de la Soucherie 2007: From a south-facing slope, this wine has a fabulous nose, full of botrytis, honey and enticing minerals. The palate is gentle and rounded, with a subtle minerality and moderate concentration, showing a nice acid backbone in the midpalate. A touch diffuse, but with very good potential. An update from the 2009 Salon. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu L'Anclaie 2007: This has a much more withdrawn character on the nose, and is certainly much more reticent than the preceding two wines. Nevertheless the palate is broad, creamy and grippy, structured and nicely textured, with lots of appropriate acidity underneath. This has very good potential. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Château Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume 2007: More character here, the nose being light and aromatic, full of honey and wild flowers, although still restrained and well-judged. Broad, concentrated and impressive on the palate, the sweetness nicely counterbalanced by the mineral character. Quite fat and dense. It has a lovely floral, orange peel edge to it too. Nevertheless even with good acidity and minerality this doesn't quite have the definition I would like. Still a very good wine, though. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Anjou Blanc & Rouge

Château Pierre-Bise Anjou Blanc Le Haut de la Garde 2005: A firm and characterful nose, rather meaty almost, mouthfilling and structured. It is deep, flavoursome and grippy, drily classic rather light and lively. It is very good. 16/20 (July 2007)

Savennières

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos de Coulaine 2005: A richly coloured wine, clear but with a certain golden hue, with just a faintest suggestion at times of an onion-skin tinge. The nose seems to have tightened up since my last tasting, concentrating down into a pure core of fruit with a very pithy-zesty style. It suggests great breadth and character. The palate kicks off in a very rich and expansive style, filing the mouth with its muscly, sinewy character, before revealing in the midpalate a huge seam of tangy grip and spice, with a white-pepper element to it. It shows more structure than last time, and a weighty substance that might reflect the wine's 14% alcohol, sitting behind some notes of stewed citrus fruits, baked apple (a little twist of oxidation here perhaps?) and some tightly-packed straw and a vanilla-tinged sweetness in the finish. But more than anything else it has a deep and structured style which I find very admirable even if somewhat muscular. From a Loire 2005 assessment. 17/20 (January 2011)

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos de Coulaine 2005: The wine has a good rich hue on inspection, and the nose has a similar richness. It carries aromas of dried fruits and straw, and a certain mineral funk that I find very appealing. The palate is beautifully fresh on entry, but immediately displays a broad, textured character with some botrytis influence to the fruit here. This is a wine of dry substance, of grip, of depth, although it remains fresh with good acidity and a rather light-footed presence despite the obvious weight. Very well defined, nicely poised, although in the finish it gives way to more muscle and spice. Great length though. A super wine that is deliciously approachable now but which will surely repay cellaring too. Really very good indeed. I will be looking forward to drinking the remainder of my lot over the coming years. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17+/20 (June 2008)

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos de Coulaine 2005: This wine remains in the portfolio despite suggestions that Papin would have given up the lease by now. A lovely quality here, a definite step up from the Anjou, regardless of how good it was. It has that textured, delineated body that seems to define the appellation, rich and long, well defined and yet expansive. Really very good indeed. 17+/20 (July 2007)

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos le Grand Beaupréau 2005: Another lovely example of the Savennières appellation, although presented in a different style to the Clos de Coulaine. It has fine definition and the same broad, impacting character that I would expect. Certainly the same level of quality, if not a little better. Very good indeed. 17+/20 (July 2007)

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Roche aux Moines 2005: An attractive pale golden hue here. The nose has that soft fruit quality that you find in high-class Chenin Blanc, a rather warm-autumnal edge to a layer of apples, pears and stone fruit, with exotic nuances at times, even a little hint of pineapple later on. And there is a broad hay-like aroma too, with a defined, crystalline edge, which together with the preceding fruit does give it a lifted edge. Alongside this warm and relaxed character there is a suggestion of a warm grip as well, and on the palate this manifests as a sweet, red-golden apple character, which although showing a very generous style at the core of the wine does also clearly display a rather light-footed frame of freshness, with a bright purity, which appears mostly at the very start before giving way to a very bitter grip through the midpalate. It is high-toned at times, also very brawny and powerful behind that perfumed layer of fruit, and into the finish it has great length. Clean and well set up, but in need of time to show its full potential despite the rather impressive composition seen here. From a Loire 2005 assessment. 18/20 (January 2011)

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Roche aux Moines 2005: In the glass it has a rich, straw-gold hue. The nose is a little different to how I remember it; previously lifted and pure, here it displays greater richness, with aromas of honey, overt botrytis, minerals, straw and firm, crystalline fruit. It is still pure in character, but with an undeniable force too. The palate is full, weighty, structured, grippy, firm and flavoursome, and again this is showing very differently to the shimmering elegance I recall last year. It has a slightly bitter character despite the richness, reflecting a raw structure and underlying grip. There is a gentle integration of components, with a sappy and light character on the midpalate which is more in keeping with my memories, with more unrefined elements towards the finish. Although showing differently today, there is still a huge amount of raw potential here, and excellent capability for cellaring. This should be fine given another five or ten years, although it may drink well beyond even that. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 18.5+/20 (June 2008)

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Roche aux Moines 2005: The first vintage for Papin with this Savennières cru. The nose here is just amazing, pure, well defined, lifted and fresh. It is unsurprisingly the same on the palate, a fabulous crystalline purity, with a mineral and honeyed yet dry character which is very, very seductive. Such vibrancy and character! This is simply grand, and certainly one I have added to my cellar. 19+/20 (July 2007)

Coteaux du Layon & Quarts de Chaume

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Rouannières 2005: Another example, but this one from spilite soils, a rock otherwise known locally as pierre-bise, of course. Rich, honeyed and pure, this is simply lovely. The same wealth of body and texture on the palate with a crisp, defining acidity to lift and balance. In terms of absolute quality, very little to separate these two cuvées. 18+/20 (July 2007)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu L'Anclaie 2005: One of Papin's many cuvées of Coteaux du Layon, this one from schistous soils. It has a lovely aromatic quality on the nose, with a rich, broad and mouthfilling character on the palate accompanied by fine acidity. Another cuvée just full of pleasure, and with such potential. Superb. 18+/20 (July 2007)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Rochefort Les Rayelles 2005: Tasted at the domaine, but this note also based on two subsequently consumed bottles. A rich orange-gold hue here, and a nose which as expected gives up aromas of honey, apricot and very overt botrytis. This has great texture, rich and viscous, minerally although this character is swamped a little by the texture of the wine, and the acidity feels low in the mouth. A seductive character though, towards opulent, with honeycomb and caramel flesh leading into a heady finish. Very long. Good wine. From a 2010 Pierre-Bise update. 17+/20 (July 2010)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Rochefort Les Rayelles 2005: This cuvée comes from the slopes at the top of the Haut de la Garde vineyard. Compared to the 2007s showed alongside it has more intensity, more botrytis, but also a little volatile acetone character. The palate has a good style, broad and sweet with soft acidity, although there is a nice freshness at the core. Certainly displaying more sugar than the 2007s reflecting the vintage, and the acidity is there. Very good indeed. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Anjou Blanc & Rouge

Château Pierre-Bise Anjou-Gamay Sur Spilite 2004: Gamay, most likely from the Rouannières vineyard. A ripe and vibrant colour. Roasted berry fruit, blackcurrant and liquorice, leather and tar. Medium bodied, a little silkiness on entry and throughout the midpalate. It reveals some coffee-tinged plum fruit character and a fine, grippy, tannic structure in the middle, with a minerally, bony and stony edge. A little austere on the finish, and bitterly interesting, with notes of nettles, green peppercorns and garden mint alongside a slightly caramelised meat finish framed by the overtly tannic structure. Really rather good, and set to improve in the cellar. 16.5+/20 (September 2006)

Coteaux du Layon & Quarts de Chaume

Château Pierre-Bise Chaume 2004: This wine has deepened a little in colour, and is taking on a wonderfully rich, lightly coppery, onion-skin hue. Delicate aromas drift from the glass, of thyme and oranges, with a fine minerality. there are even elements of white chocolate, with gentle touches of hazelnut, honey and nougat. Beautifully rich and creamy and yet nicely poised on entry, with a melange of oranges, caramel and honey-toasted nuts, this has a remarkable character. There is a freshness to it, a slightly dry structure which affords it great presence and poise, although the memory of this fades as the finish, characterised by citrus and nuts, lingers on and on. Brilliantly polished, with a seamless texture and not a hair out of place; this is a superb and complex wine which is very fine indeed for drinking now, but which will only get better I feel. From a tasting of Layons & Chaumes. 18.5+/20 (December 2009)

Château Pierre-Bise Chaume 2004: At last the INAO have settled on a sensible name for this appellation! This has lovely depth, with a broad, textured creamy-gritty palate that is very reminiscent of the 1996 which I tasted a year or two ago. This gives much pleasure now, and certainly has potential for the cellar too. Another one that I have added to the cellar. Fabulous. 18.5+/20 (July 2007)

Château Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume 2004: This has a fine, rich, rounded, balanced and very pure character on the nose. It has a fine definition on the palate and the structure and fresh acidity for some time in the cellar I think. Certainly full of potential, this wine may well surpass the Chaume of the same vintage, but for the moment I must confess that I prefer the former. Very good indeed. 18+/20 (July 2007)

Anjou Blanc & Rouge

Château Pierre-Bise Anjou-Villages Sur Spilite 2003: This was sold to me as Gamay, but any Loireophile worth his salt knows that Anjou-Villages can only be Cabernet. Once again this is most likely from the Rouannières vineyard. It has a vibrant hue, dark red at the core with a youthful, purple rim. Classic Loire nose, of fresh cherry stones with little nuances of tobacco and green peppercorns, with a firm, stony core. In character and flavour very reminiscent of wines from other schistous terroirs (mainly the Languedoc in my experience) on the palate, with a firm mineral detachment and wonderfully vibrant acidity, supporting some well delineated cherry-stone fruit with a little ripe raspberry joy on the finish. Wonderful style, so characterful, rounded off by a puckering, tannic finish. Really very good indeed, with good potential for the cellar. 17+/20 (September 2006)

Coteaux du Layon & Quarts de Chaume

Château Pierre Bise Chaume Premier Cru des Coteaux du Layon 2003: There is a moderate orange-gold tinge to the appearance of this wine. The nose carries aromas of peach and tangerine, and suggests a concentrated richness. Alongside come nuances of quince, herbal tea and orange fruit, all very captivating yet also rich, contrasting nicely against the subtle bitterness of it all, suggesting structure not simple sweetness. The palate shows a very fresh yet mellifluous style, quickly moving into a more liquorous character. There is lovely breadth and character, a finely textured palate, beautifully balanced grippy-orange pith, and a fine substance, tender and rich. An impressive wine here, with plenty of definition, acid and phenolic grip, although there is still a strong focus on its pure sweetness, up until the end when there is a minerally flourish giving more contrast and interest Very fine, and very long too. Super. From a Loire 2003 tasting. 17.5/20 (September 2011)

Château Pierre-Bise Chaume Premier Cru des Coteaux du Layon 2003: Bottled at a time when Chaume was obviously still enjoying this exalted status. A very rich colour marks this wine as potentially offering something very special, and indeed the nose would seem to support this notion, with fabulous aromas of botrytis, honey, quince and minerals. Fabulously rich and almost creamy on entry, then striding across the midpalate with a very consistent style, before rounding up in a firm, structured finish which needs time in the cellar to round off. Nicely balanced too, by some appropriate acidity. This has just lovely style and great character, and is drinking beautifully now and will do so over the next few years, and I think will produce something very interesting indeed if left in the cellar for a little longer than that. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17+/20 (September 2006)

Anjou Blanc & Rouge

Château Pierre-Bise Anjou-Gamay 2002: A cult wine in some circles. This was a barrel-sample drawn for me as there were no bottled stocks available for tasting. A touch cloudy still at this stage - to be expected. Plenty of raspberry and black berry fruit. Great depth of flavour on the palate, with tannins and structure. 16.5+/20 (August 2003)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Rouannières 2002: A mineral-laden nose. Richly textured on the palate, which has an impressive full, round, liquorous honey mouthfeel. Complexity comes in the form of crushed rocks, beeswax and boiled sweets. This is brilliant. 17.5+/20 (May 2004)

Coteaux du Layon & Quarts de Chaume

Château Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume 2002: A fabulous golden-orange colour here. Honey, quince and cinder toffee on the nose. Full, sweet and liquorous on the palate, with crisp acidity and wonderful balance. Incredible characterful wine. Excellent. 18+/20 (May 2004)

Savennières

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières 2001: An expressive nose, full of pure rock and mineral aromas. Beautifully pungent. A similar impression on the palate, underpinned by the complex mineral, straw that comes from this variety. Delicious. 16/20 (May 2004)

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos de Coulaine 2001: This has a welcoming, pale lemon-yellow hue. Warm hay and a touch of honey on the nose. Balanced, elegant, although showing plenty of body and alcoholic structure. It fans out through the midpalate, though, to really impress, with a complex array of flavours. Honey without sweetness, and straw too. Real character here. Tasted at Les Délices du Château in Saumur. 17+/20 (June 2004)

Coteaux du Layon & Quarts de Chaume

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Rouannières 2001: A golden hue, and for me probably the truest to the appellation in terms of the aromas on this tasting. There are some evocative and exuberant characteristics here, with bright, crystalline, herbal tea character, along with some richer notes reminiscent of honey-candied pineapple swirled with fresh cream. Good quincy botrytis substance too, which in combination with all the noble richness makes for a very special character. Bright and well defined on the palate, quickly broadening out and filling up into a fleshy substance through the middle of the palate, but maintaining a very fresh grit too, and as it progresses into the finish it continues with this very fine balance of substance, sweetness and acidity. I don't find any volatility (as previously noted with my last bottle) but there is certainly a stern, structured seam running through it. And around that, a wealth of sweet fruit flesh, with a delightful, tropical, mango-like twist. This is just delicious. From my 2001 Vintage Ten Years On tasting. 18/20 (December 2011)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Rouannières 2001: This has a delightful aroma, rather more expressive than the Clos de la Soucherie that preceded it. It gives a blast of pure, crystalline honey, with lots of quince-botrytis elements, then notes of herbal tea and a fine, rocky minerality. The palate starts of broad but very well defined and polished, and lusciously sweet. There is a little element of high-toned volatility running through it, but only at the level that provides interesting complexity, and on top of that I find a note of subtle, toasty, Maillard-like, golden-roasted meat. The finish is slightly organic, savoury and very, very long. From a tasting of Layons & Chaumes. 18+/20 (December 2009)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Rouannières 2001: A tinge of golden colour here. Gorgeous nose; smoky, stony, cordite-infused. Very organic, almost animalistic character. This is showing lovely development. Big, rich, sweet, luscious palate. Incisive acidity, which becomes apparent on the endpalate once the seductive texture has played its part. That organic, minerally character again. Lemons, oranges, botrytis? This is simply superb, and also shows great development compared to my tasting at the domaine. Great length. From a Loire Extravaganza tasting. 18+/20 (July 2005)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Rouannières 2001: Grown on spilite. More delicate than the previous wines, gently honeyed. Elegant balance of honey and mineral flavours, texture and acidity on the palate. Has a luscious texture. Great length. 18/20 (August 2003)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Clos de la Soucherie 2001: This wine has a slowly deepening hue here, taking on a slightly more golden-yellow tinge now. Aromatically this is delightful. with scents suggestion of quince jam, herbal tea and over it all a great sense of deep and evocative minerality. Behind this, a little high-toned nuance, honeyed but also sharply defined. The palate is immediately rich and broad, but never spreading out too much, remaining defined by soft but adequate acidity, lending the wine a very gentle, polished, slowly rolling feel. It has, as the nose suggested, apricot and quince jam, mixed with honey and herbal tea nuances, and a firm grippy minerally backbone. The end of the palate is really quite firm, allowing the sweetness through but showing a firm grip all around it. Long, bright and really nicely structured, although to be critical the acidity doesn't provide much of the definition here. All the same, this is a real pleasure. From my 2001 Vintage Ten Years On tasting. 17.5/20 (December 2011)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Clos de la Soucherie 2001: A good colour, fairly rich deepening lemon-gold. The nose is quite ethereal, with floral notes and honey. Sweetly textured on entry, rich throughout, with honey and beeswax through the midpalate, and a new caramel-citrus twist at the finish. Very long, firm and composed. A touch grippy at the end even. There is a little organic note in the middle, perhaps an evolving secondary note, but overall still very good indeed. From a tasting of Layons & Chaumes. 17.5+/20 (December 2009)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Clos de la Soucherie 2001: Elegant, fruit dominated nose, a touch ethereal, showing botrytis with a little exposure to air. Rich, apricot, honey, mineral character on the palate, matched by sufficient acidity. Mouth-coating, expansive, almost luscious feel. But has great balance. Shows some grip at the finish. Long, lingering presence. Delicious, with superb potential; should improve over the next 5-8 years. From a Loire Extravaganza tasting. 18+/20 (July 2005)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Clos de la Soucherie 2001: Grown on carboniferous soils. A lovely, floral, elegant nose. A fantastic palate - rich and honeyed, loaded with minerals, with tremendous texture and complexity. Botrytis in evidence. Beautifully balanced. 18/20 (August 2003)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu L'Anclaie 2001: This has a fine, honeyed, orange-gold hue in the glass, a tinge richer than its Pierre-Bise peers in this tasting. Aromatically it comes across very bright, with a nose of lemon freshness behind richer honey tones, and a fine crystalline, herbal tea nuance. Despite this suggestion of definition this is certainly showing a seductive richness though, with a luscious and fruit-rich character defined by the stony and laser-bright frame. Smoky, minerally, honeyed and textured on the palate, with quite a pithy nuance to the fruit. It seems rather fatter than I remember on this assessment, with intense nut elements suggestive of praline and almond paste, but with a lovely freshness and character all the same. Pithy bitterness contrasted against creamy sweetness here. Great length too. From my 2001 Vintage Ten Years On tasting. 18/20 (December 2011)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu L'Anclaie 2001: A rich orange-gold now, and a great nose, full of honey and beeswax, with elements of white chocolate, quince and nougat. A lovely palate, rich and layered, full of creamy quince and honey and very, very stylish. This is showing not only intensity, but also a fabulous balance of structure, and a lovely textural quality to the substance of the wine. This seems to have been more touched by botrytis than the Soucherie and Rouannières cuvées, and in the finish there is sweet oatmeal biscuit, honey and caramel. This is brilliant stuff, potentially a very long-lived and a wine I shall be happy drinking many years in the future I think. From a tasting of Layons & Chaumes. 18.5+/20 (December 2009)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu L'Anclaie 2001: Mid-golden hue. Quite classic nose, showing talc and mineral-infused citrus fruit, coated in honey. This comes through on the palate, which still demonstrates a very primary, oily, viscous, honeyed fruit palate, with a minerality like that on the nose, cut through with some fairly firm acidity. Whilst lovely to drink now, this is destined to be a long-lived cuvée. Will improve in bottle over the next decade with ease. Great quality here. From a Loire Extravaganza tasting. 18+/20 (July 2005)

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu L'Anclaie 2001: Grown on schist. Honey, botrytis and beeswax on the nose, with floral, acacia notes - this is brilliant. There's an amazing texture on the palate which has mineral and botrytis flavours to mirror the nose, and bags of texture. Wonderful, flavoursome, structured finish. I'm actually drinking another bottle as I type up these notes. 18/20 (August 2003)

Château Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume 2001: A delightfully rich hue here, certainly a shade deeper than the preceding Coteaux du Layon cuvées. The nose says it all really; it is heady, complex rather than sweet, with deep and bitter citrus fruit, yet it remains bright and aromatic. There are hints of almonds and sage, with also a very slight twist of volatility. Certainly complex, with some beautiful apricotty botrytis notes, like flower blossom. An amazing texture, rich and certainly creamy, with orange citrus fruits, with a bitter hint, but subtle when set against the substance of the wine. Lovely freshness. Not just sweet, lovely savoury seam to it here as well. Really fine development here, great structure, and massive length too. Superb. From my 2001 Vintage Ten Years On tasting. 18.5/20 (December 2011)

Château Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume 2001: This is a bright and yet deeply golden wine, which shows good evolution on the nose, where there are aromas of light toffee and honey, orange blossom, minerals, quartz, botrytis, apricot and more. But there is also something less tangible too, a seam of savouriness, more like oatmeal; it is fine and appealing. A beautiful palate ensues, tangerine brightness and sweetness combined, bright and acid-rich marmalade, full and creamy too, and full of crusted minerals like the nose. Brilliant, fresh and yet sweet, complex, overall a brilliant wine. Although a delight now, a little more than the three Layons tasted alongside, this wine absolutely demands to be cellared for a good few years yet. From a tasting of Layons & Chaumes. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 19+/20 (December 2009)

Château Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume 2001: Attractive, light-golden colour. Intense nose; chalky, mineral, botrytis character, with wild honey, honeysuckle and pepper. Sweet, impressive palate, with plenty of impact from the moment of entry. Lovely acidity, countering the rich, oily, viscous style. Minerally, organic, savoury yet seductive. Great length. Very good indeed, with great potential. 18.5+/20 (July 2005)

Château Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume 2001: This is a little muted on the nose. Nevertheless, the wine has plenty of texture and structure on the palate. Flavours of sweet orange marmalade, with complex notes and great acidity. It has plenty of botrytis but doesn't come across as very sweet on the palate. Another brilliant wine in the making. 18.5/20 (August 2003)

Anjou Blanc & Rouge

Château Pierre-Bise Anjou Blanc Le Haut de la Garde 2000: Fresh, clean, floral nose, with obvious notes of botrytis. Despite this it is very dry on the palate, with bags of character. There is a tannic structure unusual for a white wine, but it works very well. Great texture. 16.5+/20 (August 2003)

Château Pierre-Bise Anjou-Villages 2000: A Cabernet Franc - Cabernet Sauvignon blend grown on schist. Good fruit on the nose, with stony elements. Quite a sweet and ripe palate, but with plenty of structure. 15.5+/20 (August 2003)

Château Pierre-Bise Anjou-Villages 2000: A Cabernet Franc - Cabernet Sauvignon blend grown on a mixture of spilite and schist. This is more earthy, minerally and complex than the previous wine. Plenty of depth and structure. An excellent mouthfeel. 16/20 (August 2003)

Savennières

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos de Coulaine 2000: A rich but clean, mid-golden hue. The nose is delightfully vibrant, precisely fragrant rather than over the top. The fruit has a lightly dried character, sweet but not excessively so, vibrant too, like a little cube of desiccated pineapple. Later, there are gently presented elements of Chenin Blanc, a pillow of soft straw and a light seam of Demerara sugar. Despite this it has a fleshy but very dry quality on the palate, with a lovely purity to it, although with plenty of that dried yet minerally fruit and straw character. There is a rather firm grip at times, backed up by a fine, honeyed and velvety texture, and the acidity is perfectly integrated. My only issue is that there are moments when it seems to drop away in the midpalate, but this really is splitting hairs. Overall it has a lovely, almost marrowy substance and a nice length. Really good wine; I wish I had more! For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17/20 (March 2010)

Château Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos de Coulaine 2000: A rented plot. A lovely nose, honeyed and aromatic. Warm, round and mouthfilling on the palate. More elegance than the Anjou, with more complexity too. It still has structure though. 17+/20 (August 2003)

Coteaux du Layon & Quarts de Chaume

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Rochefort Les Rayelles 1997: This has a deeper and much richer hue than the preceding wines, both from 2007, partly the effect of age and partly the influence of botrytis in this vintage I would think. A great nose, honeyed with apricots, orange peel and plenty of spicy botrytis character. Really fat and fleshy on the palate, although well framed and with good grip underneath, giving the wine the necessary composition to just glide over the palate. An evocative style, showing lots of aromatic evolution now but well set up for many years in the cellar yet. From an RSJ tasting. 17.5+/20 (September 2010)

Coteaux du Layon & Quarts de Chaume

Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Chaume 1996: A fabulous, expressive nose, with lovely butter and toffee aromas. Splendid botrytis showing on the palate, with a blend of honey, toffee and quince. There are complex mineral notes, with simply fabulous acidity. This wine has decades ahead of it. Superb. 18.5+/20 (May 2004)