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Chateau Pierre-Bise
On the occasion of my first ever visit to Chateau Pierre-Bise, Claude Papin
greeted me warmly; it seems that this was to his credit, as he later explained that the first
visitors of the day had arrived whilst he was still sleeping. This early and
perhaps rude awakening hadn't dampened Papin's enthusiasm, however, and he soon
escorted me into the family kitchen. Here, seated at the family's dinner table
and armed with pen and his pad of headed notepaper, Papin
began my introduction to his philosophy of wine.
At the core of the Papin philosophy lie three components - terroir,
polyphenols and botrytis.
Papin, a former President of the Technical Institute of the Vine and of Wine,
works hard to ensure that his wines are what he calls vins de terroir
rather than vins de varieté; that is to say they express some aspect of
their origin rather than simple, grape-derived characteristics alone. Papin
believes that the development of polyphenols in the wine makes a significant
contribution to vinous complexity and the expression of terroir, and that
botrytis
also has an important role to play. Perhaps the most appropriate method to
explain the interplay between botrytis, polyphenols and the preservation of
terroir-based complexity is using Papin's own diagram (left), which he
sketched for me on some Pierre-Bise headed notepaper at his kitchen table. As
grapes ripen the sugar concentration (concentration sucres, along the x
axis) increases, but at a certain point they also reach physiological maturity (maturite
physiologique), signified by the change in colour of the pips (grain vert
to grain jaune). This is an important point in the development of the
grape, as physiological maturity influences the style and type of tannins and
acidity in the final wine. At this time Claude Papin hopes for the onset of
botrytis infection (debut botrytisation). Rapid shrivelling (vitesse
de flétrissement rapide) of the grapes as a result of botrytis will result
in a vin de terroir (T). By contrast, slow (lente) botrytis
infection results in a vin de variete (V). One reason for this may be the
cleaving of polyphenols, which allow the grapes to express complexity and
terroir, by
Botrytis
cinerea in the event of slow and prolonged infection. A rapid shrivelling
would make this event much less likely, preserving the terroir-derived
characteristics in the wine.
Terroir according to Papin:
- Local geology
- Water table
- Soil depth
- Soil type
- Aspect (to the sun)
- Exposure (to the wind)
To illustrate his arguments about terroir and wine Papin and I drove up into the hills behind Chateau Pierre-Bise. Here we walked among the Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chenin Blanc vines, and enjoyed our vista over what Papin regards as three distinct mesoclimates. The shrivelled remains of a green harvest littered the ground, lying adjacent to the grass that runs between the rows. The vines desperately threw runners that clawed their way towards the sky. Papin does not believe in pruning the vine during active growth. And on the vines themselves hung bunches of tiny, developing grapes, hopefully carrying the characteristics of the terroir on which the vines grew. From his seemingly ever-changing portfolio of vineyards Claude Papin produces an admirable array of wines, white, red and sweet, all of which have the potential to impress. The best known white cuvée is the Anjou Haut de la Garde, sourced from a north to north-west facing vineyard on the south bank of the Loire with a mixed terroir of schist, sandstone and ryolite, an igneous rock with a high silica content. Just across the river lie the most evocative names of Savennières which have a similar terroir, the two crus Coulée de Serrant and Roche aux Moines, and the famed Clos du Papillon vineyard. At the top of the Haut de la Garde slope is Les Rayelles, source of the fruit for one of Papin's Coteaux du Layon cuvées, although the exact proportions of fruit that go into the sweet Layon as opposed to the dry Anjou depends on the vintage and the quantity of botrytised grapes.
Papin's other great white cuvée in recent vintages has been his Savennières,
produced from the rented Clos de la Coulaine. This has been a fine and
yet very affordable example of the appellation, very drinkable in its youth and
yet with great potential for development in bottle, although they can go through
a prolonged 'dead phase' when there is no pleasure to be gained through opening
one. Despite rumours that this wine was to no longer take part in the
Pierre-Bise portfolio, I ascertained during a visit to the domaine in 2007 that
this was not the case, and that Papin, for the time being at least, has
maintained his lease here. These rumours followed Papin's acquisition of two
other plots in the Savennières appellation, including one in the cru
Roches aux Moines purchased in 2004. For this reason we can only anticipate
even greater expressions of the Savennières terroir from Papin, although
his first vintage with full responsibility for the vines throughout the entire
growing season on the Roches aux Moines plot was not until the 2005 vintage.
Having tasted the wine, it is breath-taking, and during my 2007 sojourn in the
Loire was the first wine I tasted in the three weeks that really took my breath
away.
Papin also produces a range of red wines from the two Cabernets and Gamay
grown on schistous and carboniferous soils, bottled under the
Anjou-Villages and
Anjou-Gamay appellations. Some would argue that these are among the finest
red wines in the Loire, and I would not argue against that point. These wines
have not been anointed with a more defining appellation such as Chinon or
Bourgueil, but this is not a good reason to ignore them. Nevertheless, it is
with his range of sweet wines from the Coteaux du Layon appellations that
Pierre-Bise really enters the premier league of Loire estates. Les Rayelles,
drawn from the same vineyard as Le Haut de la Garde, has already been discussed
above. The other vineyards and appellations of note are as follows:
- Les Rouannières: this is regarded by many as the domaine's prime vineyard, and here the terroir is largely volcanic spilite, a rock known locally as pierre bise and which gave its name to Papin's domaine. The Chenin vines here produce what is probably Papin's greatest example of Coteaux du Layon, but there are also both Cabernets and Gamay, this vineyard being the source of the aforementioned red wines.
- Clos de la Soucherie: another fine source of Coteaux du Layon, in this case from predominantly carboniferous soils although also with some areas peppered with more igneous rocks known as pierre carré.
- L'Anclaie: this vineyard sits atop the slope above the Layon, which leaves it more exposed to local winds and distances it a little from the river mists. It has a complex terroir, very schistous with associated chert, a sedimentary siliceous rock.
- Chaume: the leading commune of the Coteaux du Layon, Papin owns a number of vineyards in this important appellation, taking in much of the diverse terroir that exists here, including schist, spilite, chert, quartz and again some carboniferous soils.
- Quarts de Chaume: one of the two crus of the Coteaux du Layon, spread over a number of slopes not very far at all from the Papin residence. Like all the wines in the sweet portfolio, this is a superb example of the appellation.
The proof, as they say, is in the pudding, and after my sojourn in the vineyards on that first visit I returned with Papin to his house in order to taste the wines of Chateau Pierre-Bise. As I worked my way through the range Papin exhibited another skill, as he entertained my three youngsters with some sleight of hand probably first used to entertain his own sons René and Christophe. Both are now grown up and taking an active interest in the family estate; Christophe spends more time tending the vineyards, whereas René, who studied oenology in Dijon, is more likely to be found in the cellar. No tricks with disappearing corks, however, could distract me from these wines; here is an impressive range indeed. Subsequent visits only confirm my thought that Pierre-Bise is truly a leading light in all of the appellations of Anjou. (18/9/03, updated 28/9/06; 14/9/07)
Contact details:
Address: 49750 Beaulieu-sur-Layon
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 78 31 44
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 78 41 24
Chateau Pierre-Bise - Tasting Notes
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Chateau Pierre-Bise Anjou Blanc Le Haut de la Garde 2005: A firm and
characterful nose, rather meaty almost, mouthfilling and structured. It is deep,
flavoursome and grippy, drily classic rather light and lively. It is very good.
16/20 (July 2007)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos de la Coulaine 2005: This wine
remains in the portfolio despite suggestions that Papin would have given up the
lease by now. A lovely quality here, a definite step up from the Anjou,
regardless of how good it was. It has that textured, delineated body that seems
to define the appellation, rich and long, well defined and yet expansive. Really
very good indeed. 17+/20 (July 2007)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos du Grand Beaupréau 2005: Another lovely
example of the Savennières appellation, although presented in a different style
to the Clos de la Coulaine. It has fine definition and the same broad, impacting
character that I would expect. Certainly the same level of quality, if not a
little better. Very good indeed. 17+/20 (July 2007)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Savennières Roches aux Moines 2005: The first
vintage for Papin with this Savennières cru. The nose here is just
amazing, pure, well defined, lifted and fresh. It is unsurprisingly the same on
the palate, a fabulous crystalline purity, with a mineral and honeyed yet dry
character which is very, very seductive. Such vibrancy and character! This is
simply grand, and certainly one I have added to my cellar. 19+/20 (July 2007)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu L'Anclaie 2005: One of
Papin's many cuvées of Coteaux du Layon, this one from schistous soils. It has a
lovely aromatic quality on the nose, with a rich, broad and mouthfilling
character on the palate accompanied by fine acidity. Another cuvée just full of
pleasure, and with such potential. Superb. 18+/20 (July 2007)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Rouannières 2005:
Another example, but this one from spilite soils, a rock otherwise known locally
as pierre-bise, of course. Rich, honeyed and pure, this is simply lovely.
The same wealth of body and texture on the palate with a crisp, defining acidity
to lift and balance. In terms of absolute quality, very little to separate these
two cuvées. 18+/20 (July 2007)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Anjou-Gamay Sur Spilite 2004:
Gamay, most likely from the Rouannières vineyard. A ripe and vibrant colour.
Roasted berry fruit, blackcurrant and liquorice, leather and tar. Medium bodied,
a little silkiness on entry and throughout the midpalate. It reveals some
coffee-tinged plum fruit character and a fine, grippy, tannic structure in the
middle, with a minerally, bony and stony edge. A little austere on the finish,
and bitterly interesting, with notes of nettles, green peppercorns and garden
mint alongside a slightly caramelised meat finish framed by the overtly tannic
structure. Really rather good, and set to improve in the cellar. 16.5+/20 (September 2006)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Chaume 2004: At last the INAO have settled on a
sensible name for this appellation! This has lovely depth, with a broad,
textured creamy-gritty palate that is very reminiscent of the 1996 which I
tasted a year or two ago. This gives much pleasure now, and certainly has
potential for the cellar too. Another one that I have added to the cellar.
Fabulous. 18.5+/20 (July 2007)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume 2004: This has a fine, rich,
rounded, balanced and very pure character on the nose. It has a fine definition
on the palate and the structure and fresh acidity for some time in the cellar I
think. Certainly full of potential, this wine may well surpass the Chaume of the
same vintage, but for the moment I must confess that I prefer the former. Very
good indeed. 18+/20 (July 2007)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Anjou-Villages Sur Spilite 2003: This was sold to me as Gamay, but any Loireophile worth his salt knows that
Anjou-Villages can only
be Cabernet. Once again this is most likely from the Rouannières vineyard. It has
a vibrant hue, dark red at the core with a
youthful, purple rim. Classic Loire nose, of fresh cherry stones with little
nuances of tobacco and green peppercorns, with a firm, stony core. In character
and flavour very reminiscent of wines from other schistous terroirs
(mainly the Languedoc in my experience) on the palate, with a firm mineral
detachment and wonderfully vibrant acidity, supporting some well delineated
cherry-stone fruit with a little ripe raspberry joy on the finish. Wonderful
style, so characterful, rounded off by a puckering, tannic finish. Really very
good indeed, with good potential for the cellar. 17+/20 (September 2006)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Chaume Premier Cru des Coteaux du Layon 2003: Bottled at a time when
Chaume was obviously
still enjoying this exalted status. A very rich colour marks this wine as
potentially offering something very special, and indeed the nose would seem to
support this notion, with fabulous aromas of botrytis, honey, quince and
minerals. Fabulously rich and almost creamy on entry, then striding across the
midpalate with a very consistent style, before rounding up in a firm, structured
finish which needs time in the cellar to round off. Nicely balanced too, by some
appropriate acidity. This has just lovely style and great character, and is
drinking beautifully now and will do so over the next few years, and I think
will produce something very interesting indeed if left in the cellar for a
little longer than that. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week
write-up. 17+/20 (September 2006)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Anjou-Gamay 2002: A cult wine in some circles.
This was a barrel-sample drawn for me as there were no bottled stocks available
for tasting. A touch cloudy still at this stage - to be expected. Plenty of
raspberry and black berry fruit. Great depth of flavour on the palate, with
tannins and structure. 16.5+/20 (August 2003)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Rouannières 2002: A mineral-laden nose.
Richly textured on the palate, which has an impressive full,
round, liquorous honey mouthfeel. Complexity comes in the form of crushed rocks,
beeswax and boiled sweets. This is brilliant. 17.5+/20 (May 2004)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume 2002: A fabulous golden-orange colour here.
Honey, quince and cinder toffee on the nose. Full, sweet and liquorous on the
palate, with crisp acidity and wonderful balance. Incredible characterful wine.
Excellent. 18+/20 (May 2004)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Savennières 2001: An expressive nose, full of pure
rock and mineral aromas. Beautifully pungent. A similar impression on the
palate, underpinned by the complex mineral, straw that comes from this variety.
Delicious. 16/20 (May 2004)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos de la Coulaine 2001: Tasted at
Les Delices du Chateau in Saumur. This has a welcoming, pale lemon-yellow
hue. Warm hay and a touch of honey on the nose. Balanced, elegant, although
showing plenty of body and alcoholic structure. It fans out through the
midpalate, though, to really impress, with a complex array of flavours. Honey
without sweetness, and straw too. Real character here. 17+/20 (June 2004)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Clos de la Soucherie 2001:
Elegant, fruit dominated nose, a touch ethereal, showing botrytis with a
little exposure to air. Rich, apricot, honey, mineral character on the palate,
matched by sufficient acidity. Mouth-coating, expansive, almost luscious feel.
But has great balance. Shows some grip at the finish. Long, lingering presence.
Delicious, with superb potential; should improve over the next 5-8 years. From a
Loire Extravaganza
tasting. 18+/20 (July 2005)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Clos de la Soucherie 2001:
Grown on carboniferous soils. A lovely, floral, elegant nose. A fantastic
palate - rich and honeyed, loaded with minerals, with tremendous texture and
complexity. Botrytis in evidence. Beautifully balanced. 18/20 (August 2003)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu L'Anclaie 2001:
Mid-golden hue. Quite classic nose, showing talc and mineral-infused citrus
fruit, coated in honey. This comes through on the palate, which still
demonstrates a very primary, oily, viscous, honeyed fruit palate, with a
minerality like that on the nose, cut through with some fairly firm acidity.
Whilst lovely to drink now, this is destined to be a long-lived cuvée. Will
improve in bottle over the next decade with ease. Great quality here. From a
Loire Extravaganza
tasting. 18+/20 (July 2005)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu L'Anclaie 2001:
Grown on schist. Honey, botrytis and beeswax on the nose, with
floral, acacia notes - this is brilliant. There's an amazing texture on
the palate which has mineral and botrytis flavours to mirror the nose,
and bags of texture. Wonderful, flavoursome, structured finish. I'm
actually drinking another bottle as I type up these notes. 18/20 (August 2003)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Rouannières 2001:
A tinge of golden colour here. Gorgeous nose; smoky, stony, cordite-infused.
Very organic, almost animalistic character. This is showing lovely development.
Big, rich, sweet, luscious palate. Incisive acidity, which becomes apparent on
the endpalate once the seductive texture has played its part. That organic,
minerally character again. Lemons, oranges, botrytis? This is simply superb, and
also shows great development compared to my tasting at the domaine. Great
length. From a Loire
Extravaganza tasting. 18+/20 (July 2005)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Rouannières 2001:
Grown on spilite. More delicate than the previous wines, gently
honeyed. Elegant balance of honey and mineral flavours, texture and
acidity on the palate. Has a luscious texture. Great length. 18/20 (August 2003)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume 2001:
Attractive, light-golden colour. Intense nose; chalky, mineral, botrytis
character, with wild honey, honeysuckle and pepper. Sweet, impressive palate,
with plenty of impact from the moment of entry. Lovely acidity, countering the
rich, oily, viscous style. Minerally, organic, savoury yet seductive. Great
length. Very good indeed, with great potential. 18.5+/20 (July 2005)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume 2001: This is a little
muted on the nose. Nevertheless, the wine has plenty of texture and
structure on the palate. Flavours of sweet orange marmalade, with
complex notes and great acidity. It has plenty of botrytis but doesn't come
across as very sweet on the palate. Another brilliant wine in the making.
18.5/20 (August 2003)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Anjou Blanc Le Haut de la Garde 2000:
Fresh, clean, floral nose, with obvious notes of botrytis. Despite this
it is very dry on the palate, with bags of character. There is a tannic
structure unusual for a white wine, but it works very well. Great
texture.
16.5+/20 (August 2003)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos de la Coulaine 2000: A
rented plot. A lovely
nose, honeyed and aromatic. Warm, round and mouthfilling on the palate. More
elegance than the Anjou, with more complexity too. It still has structure
though. 17+/20 (August 2003)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Anjou-Villages 2000: A Cabernet Franc - Cabernet
Sauvignon blend grown on schist. Good fruit on the nose, with stony elements.
Quite a sweet and ripe palate, but with plenty of structure. 15.5+/20 (August 2003)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Anjou-Villages 2000: A Cabernet Franc - Cabernet
Sauvignon blend grown on a mixture of spilite and schist. This is more earthy,
minerally and complex than the previous wine. Plenty of depth and structure. An
excellent mouthfeel.
16/20 (August 2003)
Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Chaume 1996: A fabulous, expressive nose, with lovely butter and toffee
aromas. Splendid botrytis showing on the palate, with a blend of honey, toffee
and quince. There are complex mineral notes, with simply fabulous acidity. This
wine has decades ahead of it. Superb. 18.5+/20 (May 2004)
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