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Château Pichon-Baron

If you are in search of a true fairytale château, may I recommend that you start with Château d'Usse, near Bourgueil in the Loire Valley. This picturesque residence is widely regarded to have inspired Charles Perrault, author of La Belle au Bois Dormant, a tale better known to many as Sleeping Beauty. If these rather convincing credentials are insufficient there are a few others I would suggest, starting with my personal favourite Chenonceau, or perhaps the much-loved Azay-le-Rideau. This latter château was built in the 16th century by Gilles de Bertholet, treasurer to François I (although in truth it was a heavy modification of a pre-existing fort rather than a new construction), the result rather Italianate in style, charming and elegant, and topped off by four witch's hats, one for each corner turret.

But it is not just to the Loire we should look; Bordeaux also has its own version of the fairytale château, and here too there are several contenders. Although Château Palmer undoubtedly warrants a mention, the two châteaux that bear the name of the ancient Pichon vineyard would top the list of many Bordeaux savants. Château Pichon-Baron (the full title of which is Château Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville - I will stick with Pichon-Baron) is perhaps the strongest contender, the keen, conical roofs sitting atop their circular towers lending the building an almost magical feel. In fact there is something naggingly familiar about its appearance (shown above), especially those witch's hat turrets at either side. This familiarity is not coincidental; Château Pichon-Baron, built in 1851 at the behest of Raoul de Pichon-Longueville was, according to Clive Coates writing in Grands Vins (University of California Press, 1995), intentionally modelled on the aforementioned Azay-le-Rideau, long recognised as one of France's most important châteaux. Its reflection in the pool before it, a much more recent addition to the facade, does nothing to distract from its beauty and grandeur.

Pichon-Baron: A Rauzan Descendent

The seeds of the creation of the Pichon domaine, which split to form the two Pichon estates we know today, may be found in the late 17th century, when Jacques de Pichon-Longueville married Thérèse de Rauzan, daughter of Pierre de Mazure de Rauzan. Both Jacques and Thérèse were descended from influential and powerful stock; Jacques was the son of Bernard de Pichon-Longueville, himself the son of François de Pichon and Catherine de Bavolier. It was Jacques' father Bernard who had been ennobled with the Barony of Longueville when he married Anne Daffis de Longueville in 1646. And of Bernard's two children, the aforementioned Jacques and his brother François, the latter also took on through marriage the Barony of Parempuyre.

As for Thérèse, her family's authority stemmed from their extensive vineyard landholdings. They were not newcomers to viticulture, and even then - as is still the case today through the names Rauzan-Ségla and Rauzan-Gassies - they were best associated with the vineyards of Margaux. Nevertheless, in 1689 her father, Pierre des Mesures de Rauzan, had purchased several plots of vines further north in Pauillac, land which ultimately formed part of a dowry for Thérèse. Whereas Jacques brought his title and status to their union, Thérèse brought vines, and it was this dowry that was to be the foundation of the original Pichon vineyard. In later years these vineyards were augmented by the exchange of plots of vines with neighbouring Latour, and the wines produced on the estate quickly developed an excellent reputation, second only - at least within the boundaries of the commune - to its more illustrious neighbour. Nevertheless, it was the Rauzan vines that remained the core of the estate.

Pichon is Divided

Jacques de Pichon-Longueville died in 1731 and the property was inherited by his son, also named Jacques, and subsequently it passed through two more generations of the Pichon family, Jean-Pierre and then Joseph. Born in 1755, it was Joseph who held tenure during the French Revolution, which saw him incarcerated for a short period of time. He was also the last member of the Pichon family who held sway over all the vines, as upon his death the estate was divided between his children, creating the Pichon faux jumeaux that we know today. Of the five offspring, only one son remained; this was Raoul, who assumed the title of Baron, and would seem to be the heir apparent. Under new Napoleonic laws, however, the estate could not pass intact to a sole recipient, but must be divided between all possible heirs. And so two shares (amounting to 28 hectares of vines), one for Raoul and one for his late brother Louis, both came to Raoul, and thus the Pichon-Baron die was cast. The remaining three shares passed to the daughters, these vineyards forming the nexus of Château Pichon-Lalande.

Raoul de Pichon-Longueville had the old manor house demolished and a fine château (above) built in its place in 1851. Under his tenure the Pichon-Baron estate (and also Pichon-Lalande, for the two portions were run as a single business for several years after their supposed separation) was deemed to be of second growth quality in the 1855 classification. It seems that it was only upon his death in 1860 that the division was final, with one of the sisters taking the helm single-handed at Lalande, whilst Pichon-Baron passed to Raoul's cousin, another Raoul. By 1933, however, the family had run out of potential heirs, and the last surviving member sold the estate to the Bouteillier family. Under their management Pichon-Baron continued to enjoy a good reputation, the estate already having survived the succession of devastation that was mildew, Phylloxera, war and depression during the early 20th century. But the death of Jean Bouteillier in 1961 marked a decline in the Baron's fortunes. Jean's children were young and inexperienced, and there was a deficit of leadership and investment.

AXA Millésimes, Cazes & Seely

Through the 1970s and 1980s it was clear that the wines made at Château Pichon-Baron lacked the quality that is expected of a second growth. Fermentation temperatures were uncontrolled, macerations was excessively lengthy, and the wine was bottled in the courtyard with no control over the environment. This was the state of affairs when Jean-Michel Cazes (he of Lynch-Bages, and other properties such as Les Ormes de Pez) and AXA Millésimes became involved, with the purchase of the property completing in 1987. AXA Millésimes (an esoteric "viticultural investment" string in the bow of the insurance company AXA, with an impressive portfolio, including Suduiraut, Petit Village and Pibran) had huge capability for investment and it was no surprise that there were many changes at Pichon-Baron. The chai wasn't just renovated, it was completely rebuilt, using a design by architects Patrick Dillon and Jean de Gastines, after the pair won a competition for the best design. The new buildings (shown above and below) face each other across the pool in front of the château, and yet they do not detract from the grand château as, in a triumph of sensitivity in architecture, they are sunk into the ground. The cellars themselves extend beneath the pool in front of the château, the cool waters above helping to moderate the temperatures below. The château itself, always under-utilised, was renovated, although sadly it remains unoccupied. The result of this investment was a heady rise in quality, and under Jean-Michel Cazes and winemaker Daniel Llose the wines of Pichon-Baron soon began to challenge - and not infrequently usurp - those of Pichon Lalande. Previously, in my opinion, there had simply been no competition.

Today Pichon Baron is managed by Christian Seely, Jean-Michel Cazes having retired from this role in 2000. By this point, the reputation of Pichon-Baron had already been restored, with a string of admirable wines produced particularly during the latter years of the preceding decade. A newly equipped chai completed in 1991, a new bottling line and new practices in the cellars were the cornerstone of the improvements, although the march onwards did not stop there. It was to my disappointment that, on espying the château in late 2006, it bore a greater resemblance to a building site than a fairytale castle. But the château was untouched, the work concerned the cellars beneath the shimmering pool that lies in front of the château. More work, more improvements, more investment, and happily today the site has been returned to its uncluttered glory. Meanwhile Seely pushes the quality of the wine further and further. Stricter selection has been key to this, Seely looking to the historic heart of the estate, a central 40 hectares, as a regular source of the grand vin. He has introduced smaller fermentation vats, enabling the current winemaker Jean-René Matignon to perform small plot-by-plot vinifications. With continued commitment like this we should see more great wines from Pichon-Baron over the coming years.

Pichon-Baron: The Vineyards & Wines

The vineyards at Pichon-Baron cover 73 hectares of typical gravel (on an estate which totals 88 hectares), and are planted with 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot; this ratio reflects a recent increase in the area dedicated to Merlot and a slight reduction in Cabernet Sauvignon, but also the disappearance of Cabernet Franc, which once accounted for 5% of the vineyard. Harvesting is manual, and the fruit destemmed before fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks at 28°C to 30°C. The malolactic fermentation occurs in vat, after which the wine is transferred into French oak barrels (some may undergo the malolactic here instead) for up to 18 months, using 80% new and 20% one-year old (the use of new oak has increased a little in recent years), with racking every three months.

The grand vin is Château Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville, Pichon-Baron to you and me, with a typical production of 24000 cases. The second wine is Les Tourelles de Longueville, introduced with the 1986 vintage, of which 12000 cases are typically produced. Les Tourelles might be regarded a groundbreaking wine by some; in early 2007 it was revealed that a proportion of the second wine, those bottles intended for the on trade (restaurants and the like, not retail sales) would be bottled under a screwcap closure, rather than the traditional cork. For a deuxième cru, even if it is only the second wine, this was a bold and admirable move indeed. On my most recent visit to the château, however, the response to my question about how much Les Tourelles was committed to screwcap was "very little". Cork is still by far the dominant closure here, and what small amount goes under screwcap is destined for the UK market. I would not be surprised if this innovation, which I featured in my report on tasted 2004 Les Tourelles from under both closures, soon comes to an end.

I once thought of Pichon-Baron's style as being one of complete contrast to sibling Pichon-Lalande, which has enjoyed a very strong following for many years because of is sensual, seductive nature. Baron, meanwhile, was long reputed to have a more structured, reserved although not quite reticent style, the masculine counterpart to the more feminine Pichon-Lalande. Whereas elements of this remain true, I do not think it is today very apt to think of the wines of Pichon-Baron as being made in this sober, schoolmasterly image. Today they are more silky, more refined, more elegant, despite the fact that they remain focused on Cabernet Sauvignon, this variety accounting usually for more than 70% of the blend. The Merlot is destined more for Les Tourelles (often more than 50% Merlot), blended largely with the fruit of the Ste Anne vineyards, a section that lies further to the west near Château Batailley. So Pichon-Baron remains a very substantial wine, but today it comes with an undeniable charm as well; it is no surprise that these bottles have become immensely popular with lovers of good quality Bordeaux.

On a different level, Pichon-Baron has a special resonance with me, as this estate was the source of one of the first bottles of classed growth claret I ever purchased, the wine in question being the 1983 vintage, which I picked up at a price well under ten pounds per bottle. I must confess I wasn't very impressed when I drank it, this perhaps reflecting my own understanding of Bordeaux at the time as much as Pichon-Baron's somewhat less than enthralling performance during the 1980s, as I did enjoy another bottle rather more when I finally opened it over a decade later. More recent vintages, however, have shown much more character and depth. Of all the vintages from 1997 through to 2005 there isn't a real disappointment, with even the 1997 proving that there were some palatable wines made in this rather questionable year. But it is with the success of 2000, 2003 and 2005 that the real worth shines through, and years subsequent to this have given us yet more great wines. The 2008 was, when tasted at two years of age, one of very few true successes on the left bank in this vintage. Whereas the 2009 and 2010 reflect all the glory of these two great vintages. Roll on, Pichon-Baron! (26/2/04, updated 26/1/07, 1/6/11)

Contact details:
Address: Château Pichon-Baron, 33250 Pauillac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 73 17 17
Fax: +33 (0) 5 56 73 17 28
Internet: www.pichonlongueville.com
GPS: 45.176192, -0.75237

Château Pichon-Baron - Tasting Notes

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Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2010: Harvested from September 27th, starting with the Merlot, then the Cabernet Sauvignon on October 7th, finishing on the 18th. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon 79% and Merlot 21%. The pH is 3.7, slightly more acidic than the 2009 which was 3.8. The élevage will be 80% new oak, 20% one-year old. The nose here is very direct, intensely expressive, but also very pure and linear. There are notes of exotic black plums, black cherries, damsons too, but it is not soft or overly fruity in any way - it is all very tightly tucked in. A lovely very sweet and harmonious style here, with a remarkably welcoming feel to the fruit. The acidity starts to come through but the tannins remain very well hidden. Very harmonious, compellingly so. It seems quite effortless. At the finish the flavours linger, slowly disappearing, but the tannins although visible remain very silky and low-key. A remarkable effort which may make superb old bones given time. From my Bordeaux 2010 primeurs assessment. 18-19/20 (April 2011)

Les Tourelles de Longueville (Pauillac) 2010: The second wine of Pichon-Baron, this is 45% of the estate's production. The blend is Merlot 60%, Cabernet Sauvignon 40%, and the anticipated élevage will be in 50% new oak, 50% one-year old. Despite early trials there is less and less screwcap every year I am told; just a small percentage of production, for the UK market. Attractively refined on the nose here, rather grainy, cedary and spicy. It has a lovely presence on the palate, showing nicely tucked in flesh but with a lot of linear definition. Sweet, broad, but with a lovely direction, this has a really very supple tannic structure, and a nicely attuned grip here, poised rather than too firm. A really impressive second wine. From my Bordeaux 2010 primeurs assessment. 16-17/20 (April 2011)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2009: The fruit character here is quite different to its Pichon-Lalande sibling tasted alongside, being more solid and compact, and although there is a layer of oak apparent here it is dark and staid rather than too sexy. Although returning to it later there is an undeniable perfume here also. The palate is, as the nose suggested to me, supple and well-defined, allowing in some grippy elements in the midpalate, with a fine and lightly granular texture, and a supple finish. The structure here is very well hidden until the end, and has a svelte personality. A cracking wine. From a tasting of 2009 Bordeaux at two years of age. 19/20 (October 2011)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2009: An assessment of this wine after a further year in barrel. This has a good colour concentration. The nose is heavily marked by a rich, minty dark-chocolate character which surely relates to its time in oak. There is a lovely dark-fruit quality to it though, with some appealingly exotic elements already visible, include nuances of black olives, black tea and star anise. This same exotic richness comes though on the palate, which is beautifully seductive, with the dark flavours mirroring what was found on the nose accompanied by a firm, youthful blackcurrant fruit. A very polished composition, overall really stylish. Very long too. There is stunning quality here. Note though, this is not yet bottled. Tasted at the château. 18-19/20 (March 2011)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2009: This wine has a very dark crimson-black appearance, with a bluish rim. Impressive fruit on the nose, dense, with forest fruits, bright but ripe and rich, and redolent of cherries swirled with cream. Elegant fruit on the palate, very composed. The tannins are so well hidden! Gorgeous yet well defined, almost lush fruit profile but the wine has the structure to cope. Tannins show a little more towards the finish, but that is fine, otherwise they are well covered by a coat of ripe, velvety tannins. Blue-black fruit in the finish. A superb Baron, with the upper hand between the Pichons in this vintage to my palate. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 18-19+/20 (March 2010)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2008: The 2008 Pichon-Baron has rather a reserved nose, tightly reined in, although there is a good density of fruit character here with a good pile of Pauillac spice too. It certainly suggests substance. There is a gravity to it, and a slightly savoury element here as well. A wonderfully flattering style on entry, hitting the palate with a flourish of fruit before it broadens out, showing a more intense and spicy structure again. There is a great pile of tannin here but it is just peeping out from behind the fruit, giving great spicy substance to the body of the wine. Very dark and reserved. Well balanced but with texture and tannic structure in equal measure. Long and rather grippy here too. But it all hangs together very well. This will take 10-15 years minimum to come round but should be excellent. One of the few great wines of the vintage. From a tasting of 2008 Bordeaux at two years of age. 18.5+/20 (October 2010)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2008: Dark, substantial, slightly oaky fruit. Lots of substance on the palate here, with good depth and extract. Polished, with a ripe tannic core and rather firm acidity. This wine has a fine composition, weighty but elegant. Fine potential. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 17-18+/20 (April 2009)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2007: Grainy oak on the nose here, a touch of cedar too, with an exotic fruit style alongside. This is one of the few wines of the vintage to give real interest on the nose. The palate is supple and alluring, with a very well formed, elegantly stylish composition. At last a truly convincing wine! The tannins are appropriate and give a good backbone but do not step out of line at any moment, the acidity is bright but integrated , and the finish slowly fading. This is extraordinarily impressive for the vintage. It is perhaps just a touch dry in terms of composition on the midpalate, but that is no bad thing. From a 2007 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 16.5/20 (November 2011)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2007: Dense fruit, a little creamy oak, more expressive aromatically than Pichon-Lalande which I tasted alongside. An impressive palate for the vintage; supple and lightly creamy in terms of texture. A very appealing style, harmonious, with integrated tannins. Balanced, and overall showing very well. A good firm finish and even a little length. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 16.5+/20 (October 2009)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2007: At Pichon-Baron, 60% of the harvest went into the grand vin, higher than some other leading estates. Cabernet dominates, at 74%, the balance being Merlot. This has a very appealing nose, intense fruit, with a floral and aromatic character. Nicely textured, gently weighty, with good grip showing towards the finish. Firmly structured, not flattering, a touch austere rather than fleshy. Overall, though, good. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 16-17+/20 (April 2008)

Les Tourelles de Longueville (Pauillac) 2007: This is 62% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. A rather flashy, open, stylish nose here, showing pretty and attractive fruit. An appealing palate showing uncomplicated style, gentle flesh and a nice balance. Rather firm tannins showing just on the finish. This has a good quality. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 14-15+/20 (April 2008)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2006: Rather more dense than the Lalande with a more violet-tinged hue. Very well defined on the nose, dense and rather splendid in its definition, with elements of roasted fruits alongside a residual seam of toffee oak, all wrapped up in a very savoury, stock and hung-game layer. Quite a cool style on entry, the fruits very red and fresh in style, the definition admirable, the perfume deliciously appealing. There is some substance to it, a full layer of tannins and fresh acids, but all held together in a very reserved fashion. Impressive, tightly composed, appealing. This just has the edge on Lalande I think. From a 2006 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 18+/20 (November 2010)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2006: This has aromas of fresh fruit and vanilla ice cream on the nose, with exotic and vibrant raspberry fruit to the fore. Elegant entry, nicely balanced, with more of that sweet raspberry fruit wrapped up in fresh cream and vanilla ice cream. A lot of body and character here. Overall a balanced, elegantly structured wine with some finesse that has scored higher and higher each time I have tasted it. From a tasting of 2006 Bordeaux at two years of age. 17.5-18+/20 (October 2008)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2006: A wine on which I was perhaps overly hard when judging the barrel sample, in April 2007 - or at least it is showing much better now. Today this shows a pure, aromatic fruit, and also some integrated oak. Nice, fleshy, balanced, although with an austere structure underneath. It possess a very firm grip at the finish, and has a very powerful frame. This is really very good and deserves a higher score than my last one. From a Bordeaux 2006 assessment. 16.5-17/20 (April 2008)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2006: Attractive, vibrant red fruit, and a touch toasty on the nose. The palate has a very dry, reserved character, very firm, with moderate acidity and a little flesh, not quite enough to cover the tannins at present. Overall it is very backward today, and seems hugely tannic and yet lacking in the substance necessary to counterbalance this. This might be a problem. A disappointment for the AXA Pichon-Baron team, who have been on a roll recently. From my 2006 Bordeaux assessment. 14-15/20 (April 2007)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2005: Expressive, bright and sweet red fruit character, especially cherry and cranberry, on the nose. A rather refined style at the outset, quite lifted and light, showing a broader flesh through the midpalate, and a very elegant and pure substance. A fine balance here, a lightly poised and very stylish effort. Very smoothly polished tannin core, although with plenty of substance piled around it, albeit alongside some rather gentle and delicate fruit. A very good wine with fine potential, but not up to what I expected given Pichon-Baron's recently admirable track record. In view of this thought I returned to the wine later in the day, pouring from a fresh bottle. My opinion was unchanged. From a 2005 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 17-17.5+?/20 (November 2009)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2005: A bright and forceful nose here, showing crunchy fruit with a fresh, redcurrant and blackcurrant character with a dash of pepper. Very pure and typical Baron style on the palate as well, which has supple tannins, well covered with a fine texture, and a nice acid backbone. Very good indeed; elegant but with weight and excellent potential. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 18+/20 (October 2007)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2005: CS 65%, M 30%, CF 5%. A fine colour, rather vibrant and appealing. Classic dark fruit nose, with bramble notes, quite expressive when worked hard in the glass but otherwise this is giving little away today. Balanced and elegant, with ripe, polished fruit over a fine structure of ripe tannins. There are hidden complexities here, which will be more readily revealed with time. I think this could be very good indeed, but it needs time. From my 2005 Bordeaux en primeur tasting. 17-18/20 (April 2006)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2004: Slightly denser than Pichon-Lalande in this vintage, a touch more spice and a touch more fruit intensity on the nose. Full, elegant, creamy style on the palate, ripe with well composed tannins. A good vinosity and fine structure in the mouth, a touch masculine, with a dry structure beneath it all. It has a nutty, slightly raw finish but this should come together with time. Good length too. This has great potential for the cellar. From a 2004 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 17.5+/20 (November 2008)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2004: This is immediately expressive and exotic, and impresses from the very beginning. It has a nose full of spice and fruit, a very full style, fresh, with lovely acidity, and a nicely delineated style. Plump but with the necessary grip beneath. Ripe but tightly framed, this delivers a wonderful sensation. Very fine, and a higher score this time I note. From a tasting of 2004 Bordeaux. 17.5+/20 (April 2007)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2004: A newly opened bottle, reserved nose, a little brooding perhaps, but when the fruit emerges it shows a paradoxical, vibrant freshness. Very nicely balanced on the palate; a firmer structure, more muted than the other Pichon, more traditionally styled perhaps. Good acid structure, crisp and fresh, the tannins only rounding on the finish. This will be fine in the cellar. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 17+/20 (October 2006)

Les Tourelles de Longueville (Pauillac) 2004: The second wine of Pichon-Baron. From one of the 12000 bottles under screwcap. Of the two wines, one under screwcap and one under cork (both tasted blind) this has the fresher colour. A smoky and gamey nose, with a touch of iodine. Perhaps a touch reduced? Rounded, sweet, firm, with gentle fruit and good tannin. Not very vigorous. Good though. The bright colour and note of reduction suggests screwcap to me. From a tasting of Les Tourelles under screwcap and cork at the château. 15.5+/20 (April 2008)

Les Tourelles de Longueville (Pauillac) 2004: The second wine of Pichon-Baron. This wine, also tasted blind, turned out to be bottled under cork. It has a remarkably different colour considering these have only been in bottle a year or two. Although the colour is more advanced, it still has a smoky and gamey character on the nose, and is clearly in the same vein as the preceding wine, although it is perhaps less expressive. It seems a little more fleshy, a touch sweeter. It has clearly evolved differently, and is attractive. Ready for drinking very soon. From a tasting of Les Tourelles under screwcap and cork at the château. 15.5/20 (April 2008)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2003: A rather muted nose compared with Pichon-Lalande, although still showing exotic, perfumed and violet-infused black fruits with a roasted nut edge. Succulent, creamy, with firm tannins, quite well knitted together with the substance of the wine. Full, exotic, slightly brawny, but with good acidity. There is some finesse here, and overall it's a touch more exciting than young Pichon-Baron usually is. Lovely floral-tinged finish. A success! From my 2003 Bordeaux assessment. 17.5+/20 (October 2005)

Les Tourelles de Longueville (Pauillac) 2003: The second wine of Pichon-Baron. A very good depth of colour on inspection, and a nice nose, quite restrained in terms of exuberance, but what it does yield is interesting, with spicy, exotic, raspberry jam and confit cherry characteristics, some of which obviously reflect the character of the vintage. Fleshy, attractive, but dry and minerally, quite tightened up, with a seam of polished tannins. A lovely finish. There are layers of flavour here. Very nice, but not for drinking just yet to see it at its peak. From the 2007 CIVB tasting. 16.5-17+/20 (October 2007)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2002: A barrel sample. A dense, almost exotic nose, obviously very youthful. With it's rich, rounded and creamy texture, it's clear this wine still has plenty of baby fat. Good acidity and plenty of tannins in the background. This is one for the cellar - needs a decade or more. 16.5+/20 (November 2003)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2001: A dark, classically styled, black fruit nose. Again a touch of roasted nuts. Lovely texture. A touch light but it has elegance. There are appropriate tannins which need a little time - five years - and there is correct acidity. Delicious mix of red and black fruits. This is my kind of wine. 17+/20 (November 2003)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2000: A very dark, impenetrable colour. The nose is closed, but gives some notes of roasted fruit and roasted nuts. There's a lovely fat texture on the palate, but with plenty of tannin and acidity to back it up. Dark, brooding, fruit. A splendid effort. 18+/20 (November 2003)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 1999: This is rich, with a slightly rounded edge to the fruit, with appealing touches of cashew nuts and roasted herbs. A full, rich, rounded texture on the palate, with some fatness. Soft tannins and slightly low acidity. This is very enjoyable indeed. 17+/20 (November 2003)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 1998: This is closed on the nose. The palate at first offers chalky tannins with some texture. Nicely balanced, although simple, closed and backward at the moment, but it has potential. Underneath there is some good structure. Needs three to five years in the cellar. 17+/20 (November 2003)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 1998: What a fantastic nose - all cedar and cigar box, with pencil shavings and classically restrained blackcurrant fruit. Fine elegance on the palate, with firm and crisp tannins, great acidity and some power to the fruit. A drying, tannic finish. From an Oddbins tasting. 17+/20 (November 2001)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 1997: Obviously mature from inspecting the colour. Pleasant, mature fruit on the nose. Clean. A fat texture, with still a little unresolved tannin. Firm acidity. There is some sweet, pastille like fruit. For drinking over the next couple of years. A rare performance for this vintage. 15.5/20 (November 2003)

Les Tourelles de Longueville (Pauillac) 1997: The second wine of Château Pichon-Baron. This wine has a dark and appealing red colour, with just a surprising and somewhat worrying hint of mahogany. Clearly has elements of class on the nose, very typically Pauillac. Soft and rounded on the palate, it builds texture in the mouth. Subtle, balanced tannins and acidity, and lovely blackcurrant fruit. Just lacks a little concentration. From a Majestic press tasting. 15/20 (November 2001)

Les Tourelles de Longueville (Pauillac) 1988: From a half bottle. No need to decant. Good, mature colour. Classic left bank nose, with mature, gravelly, Cabernet fruit. Firm, savoury palate. Still rather upright tannins which will improve over the next three to four years. Good flavour though. Meaty, masculine, serviceable claret of quality but not finesse. Very good. Tasted at The Vintners Rooms. 16.5+/20 (February 2005)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 1983: Another moderately intense mahogany wine. A ripe berry fruit nose, opening up to reveal some smoky complexity. A little austere on the palate, with some unintegrated tannins and obvious acidity. Oriental spices and good fruit, with a creamy texture. Some length. From a Bordeaux 1983 blind tasting. 17.5+/20 (November 2000)

Château Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 1961: This has some lovely fruit on the nose, which is elegant, with a minerally red berry character. This is stylish and expressive, with a great depth. The palate is big, structured and impressive, still showing quite a bit of grip. This is another wine in this tasting which has a complete, rounded, style, although there is a bit of meatiness to it too. A fine, slowly fading finish. Great length. Really nice wine here. From a 1961 Bordeaux tasting. 18/20 (June 2007)