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Chateau de Pibarnon

The road up to the 13th Century bastide at Chateau de Pibarnon is almost as winding as that up to Domaines Bunan. I found my way onto it almost by chance, having driven up out of Bandol itself into the woods, determined to find somewhere secluded to stop and eat our picnic lunch. Eventually we located a suitable spot, no mean feat along these narrow tree-lined tracks, and right opposite our chosen stop was the sign pointing the way to Pibarnon. Just 1.5 km away. Well, it would be rude not to visit, wouldn't it?

The road opens out alongside the Pibarnon property, an impressive restored Provençal country house. This fine estate occupies a prominent position, possessing views across the Bandol vineyard, including the majestic sweep of vines that belong to Pibarnon, and then right down to the Mediterranean. This commanding position meant this was an obvious spot for a station on the Toulon-Paris optical telegraph system, and explains why this is now known as Télégraphe hill. But no such feature now marks the landscape; instead one can find beautifully manicured gardens, lush and green despite the baking heat. This luxurious residence has been home to Comte Henri de St-Victor since 1977, who purchased and subsequently restored the house, as well as re-energising and augmenting the vineyards, which were in disarray. Over the years the estate has expanded from 3.5 ha to over 50 ha, with the most significant development being the construction (using bulldozers) and planting up of the amphitheatre of vines known as the Théatre d'Epidaure.

This amphitheatre of restanques (terraces) runs up the hill opposite the house. Such terraces not only facilitate viticulture but also prevent erosion and improve water absorption, vital in this climate. Over blue marl and limestone bedrock lie soils which offer little nutrition to the vine, and contain many stones, broken fossils and even patches of sand. There is rigorous adherence to quality in the vineyard, including careful (and traditional) gobelet training, and green harvesting to keep yields at an average of 35 hl/ha. The red vines themselves are predominantly Mourvèdre, this grape dominating the red wine which is the only such wine produced by the chateau - no super-cuvées here (although there is a second wine, a vin de pays). In addition there is a fine rosé produced by the saignée method from young Mourvèdre and Cinsaut vines, as well as a white wine, produced from Clairette, Bourboulenc, Marsanne, Roussanne and Petit Manseng.

Inside the cellars I tasted a range of wines, including the latest white and pink, as well as a mini-vertical tasting of the red wine. Nothing disappointed. The white wine was as deliciously refreshing as the rosé. The reds all showed the characteristics of the vintage, but all had appeal. This is a great domaine. (1/11/05)

Contact details:
Address: 83740 La Cadière-d'Azur
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 94 90 12 73
Fax: +33 (0) 4 94 90 12 98

Chateau de Pibarnon - Tasting Notes

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2004

Chateau de Pibarnon Blanc 2004: From the Marsanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc and Ugni Blanc vines planted in 1992 opposite the chateau. A lovely nose; pineapple and roasted banana, stone fruit, in a very fresh style. Weighty, mouthfilling, with a creamy edge. Lovely presence of fruit on the palate. Not the minerality of a truly great white, but certainly delicious with a grippy, precise, slightly bitter quinine bite. Lovely. A second bottle drank later was just as fine. Drink now. 17/20 (August 2005)

Chateau de Pibanon Bandol Rosé 2004: The second of a couple of bottles I picked up in the UK for a bargain price. This wine still displays a fine, peachy hue, reminiscent of an autumn sunset, a little too deep and rich for the description of onionskin, but it is certainly a beautiful hue nevertheless. On the nose it remains very fresh and well defined, with notes of tangerine, strawberry leaf and peach, accompanied by a little vanilla. The palate is fresh, limpid, crisp, a little textured, and nicely rounded. Through the midpalate it develops a little creamy richness, whilst still displaying the delicious vibrant fruit acidity that makes this such good drinking on a hot summer (or spring) day. It even lingers a little on the finish, momentarily admittedly. What a complete, pleasing, well finished wine. All said this is very good indeed. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17/20 (April 2006)

Chateau de Pibanon Bandol Rosé 2004: This bottle purchased from Costco at a bin-end price of less than £6. It has more of a salmon pink hue now, less attractive than the fine onionskin colour seen last year. Still, an attractive nose, full of tangerine and peach notes with some incumbent, leafy red fruit. Very nice style on the palate, a little creamy vanilla alongside the fruits, and lots of presence; grippy tannic structure, and very good acidity. Lovely wine. Perfect for drinking in this hot summer weather. 17/20 (July 2006)

Chateau de Pibarnon Rosé 2004: A lovely onionskin hue here. Elegant and stylish nose, with aromas of orange and peach fruit, with some herbal notes. Clean, with good acidity, and a nice presence on the palate. Peachy perfume and pine kernel character. Just lovely. Without doubt one of the greatest rosés I have ever tasted. A second bottle drank later was just as fine. Drink now. 17/20 (August 2005)

Les Restanques de Pibarnon (VdP du Mont Caume) 2004: Pibarnon's second wine. Young vines. Good fruit on the nose; not long bottled which explains why the nose is still smothered in oak. Decent presence on the palate. Short finish. Good 15/20 (August 2005)

2003

Chateau de Pibarnon Bandol 2003: Just bottled four weeks prior to my tasting. A very hot vintage, as it was across all Europe. Confit cherry fruit. Rich, ripe, warm and mouth-filling character on the palate, backed by a body of ripe, supple tannins. Fairly low acidity, as one might expect. Nevertheless it has lovely style. It is difficult to predict how it will fair in the cellar, but it should give plenty of pleasure along the way. 17+/20 (August 2005)

2002

Chateau de Pibarnon Bandol 2002: A warm but wet vintage and harvest. Red fruit nose here, with some darker elements. Classic palate, loaded with tannin. The oak has been fully absorbed, and there is quite correct acidity. Very good structure. Great potential here. Needs 4-5 years. 16+/20 (August 2005)

2001

Chateau de Pibarnon Bandol Rosé 2001: A simply gorgeous colour, the orange-tinged pink of a summer sunset. Fresh raspberry and pear fruit on the nose. Lovely and impressive weight on entry, quite rich and mouthfilling, yet dry and structured, with fresh, zippy acidity. More summer flavours, blackcurrant leaves and apple notes. A fresh, clean finish, but with no length. Great rosé. 17/20 (March 2003)

Chateau de Pibarnon Bandol 2001: A lovely nose of cherry pie; sweet baked cherries with a sweet pastry nose. Classic style on the palate, with ripe fruit, medium body and a fine tannic structure. This is one that should do well in the cellar, and should drink very well indeed in 3-4 years. 17+/20 (August 2005)

1999

Chateau de Pibarnon Bandol 1999: Vigorous decant one hour before tasting. A youthful garnet colour. Initially this gives off classic Mourvèdre aromas of meat, blood and beef, on a layer of black cherry fruit. Medium bodied, with good fruit, and packed with tannins in the finish. Moderately high acidity. After 24 hours I retasted the wine - it was much softer, rounder and with more evident fruit. Needs three to five years in the cellar at least. 17+/20 (March 2003)