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Château Pavie

It is too easy, when thinking of this longstanding member of the Premier Grand Cru Classé estates of St Emilion, to focus not on the wine but on the controversy. The latter is something that has never been far from Pavie in recent years, consequent upon the acquisition of the estate by Gérard Perse in 1998, who has taken the domaine, and the style of the wine, in a very new direction. This, of course, is the source of the debate. There are those that admired the wines of the pre-Perse Pavie, but also those that found them lily-livered. The latter person is perhaps likely to enjoy the modern style brought about by Perse, whereas others simply find it all too turbo-charged, too steroid-dependent, to rate it highly. But here I am starting at the end, and already falling into the trap which I set out to avoid. First, let us look at the history of the estate, the vineyards, and the vinification.

Château Pavie: A History

The name Pavie, which would appear to be derived from pavies, describing the deeply coloured peaches that once grew on the site, first appears in Bordeaux texts during the middle of the 19th century, when the estate appears to have been through the hands of four separate owners, starting with Talleman, who held the most significant portion and produced the greatest quantity of wine, followed by Pigasse who also owned Larcis, and two gentlemen named Lafleur and Chapuis. As the years passed, however, the Pigasse portion contracted, particularly following the death of Adolphe Pigasse in 1868, an event which prompted his widow to sell off a number of plots of vines. Meanwhile, the Fayard-Talleman family - as they appear to be known at this time - had expanded their holding, consequently coming to own the majority of the estate. The creation of Pavie as we know it today, however, really comes about in the late 19th century when Ferdinand Bouffard arrives. He acquired not only the Fayard-Talleman vines, but also the small area still in the ownership of the Pigasse family, as well as a number of plots from other local families. Some plots were managed separately however, including those vineyards purchased from the Pigasse family, which subsequently gave rise to the vineyard known today as Pavie-Decesse, whilst other important sections were acquired by Bouffard's contemporaries, including the Chapuis portion which was the origin of today's Pavie-Macquin. Nevertheless, Bouffard had still pulled together a handsome estate, and he invested wisely, improving the vineyard by eradicating unsuitable varieties, refurbishing the cellar and, sadly, working tirelessly in a futile defence against the advance of phylloxera using chemical treatments, for which he was recognised by a local society with the award of a medal. Looking back with the benefit of many decades of hindsight it would seem to have been an accolade awarded on effort, rather than merit.

Although doubtlessly Bouffard is an important figure in the development of Château Pavie, his battle with phylloxera was hard, and during the early 20th century there was also war and widespread economic depression to contend with. Perhaps influenced by the times he sold the estate to Albert Porte in 1918, the new owner holding tenure during the opening years of World War II, before subsequently passed the vineyard on to Alexandre Valette, who also owned Troplong-Mondot, in 1943. With Alexandre's death in 1957, however, the family's holdings were divided, with the vineyard at Troplong-Mondot passing to grandson Claude and then to the next generation, Christine, while Alexandre's other grandson Jean-Paul Valette took over the management of the Pavie vineyard. Having been brought up in Chile, Jean-Paul only established himself in the château, hitherto uninhabited for much of the time, in 1967. It was during the Valette era that the modern-day controversy, or at least the groundwork for it, perhaps begins; certain critics, such as Clive Coates, rated the wines of the Valette era very highly, whereas others - Robert Parker included - could find little positive to say about them. This was nothing, however, when compared to the spat that would result from the actions of the new owner, Gérard Perse, following his acquisition of the estate in 1998.

Château Pavie: The Perse Era

Like one or two others that have arrived in Bordeaux in recent years, such as the Cathiards of Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Perse was a supermarket magnate who had acquired considerable wealth. Upon the sale of two chains of shops he began to look to Bordeaux, his intention being to buy an estate in keeping with his financial status. His aim was high, his sights were set on the right bank, and in 1993 he acquired Monbousquet, an estate situated to the south of St Emilion itself, followed in 1997 by Pavie-Decesse, which lies at the top of the côtes around the town. But it was the following year that he acquired in Pavie an estate with the potential that I think Perse really desired; a vineyard where, with the appropriate work and attention to detail the wines could, perhaps, challenge those of the very upper tier of the St Emilion classification which includes only two estates, Cheval-Blanc and Ausone. Perse began with the construction of a new cellar, as up until that moment the wines had been stored in the extensive limestone caves of the region and these were occasionally prone to collapse, the last time leading to the destruction of over fifty barrels of wine. There was refurbishment of the chai, with the installation of new wooden fermentation vats with temperature control to replace the concrete vats which had been in situ for six decades. There was a radical restoration of the château, and in the vineyards there was extensive uprooting and replanting where necessary, a considerable undertaking as 25% of the vines were missing. Work to fill in the gaps continues more than a decade after Perse made his purchase.

Château Pavie: Vineyards and Vinification

The vineyards in question include a mix of terroirs, in part thanks to their considerable size, the vines accounting for 37 hectares of the St Emilion vineyard, in part due to their position to the southeast of the town, running down the côtes (as shown below). At the top there is limestone, with clay and limestone on the slope, whereas at the bottom are a few hectares of the less desirable alluvial, gravelly, sandy soils. On the whole though the terroir is favourable, with most vines situated on the clay and limestone soils which are favoured over the gravel and sand, with a southerly aspect and good drainage.

The vines average over 40 years of age, and now that Perse has completed his replanting program they are dominated by Merlot which accounts for 60%, although there is a good proportion of Cabernet Franc at 30% and also Cabernet Sauvignon, which covers just 10%. Future plantings will focus on the Cabernets rather than Merlot. The vineyards were modified by means other than mere replanting though; in 2001 the Pavie vineyard absorbed the vines of neighbouring La Clusière, all 2.5 hectares, as well as 9 hectares of Pavie-Decesse. In addition, 6 hectares on the lower reaches of the Pavie slopes, on sandy soils, were declassified, a move which would no doubt bolster the quality of the wine but was perhaps also aimed at sweetening the INAO, who approved the reclassifications.

The vines are trained high to improve exposure of the fruit, and there is leaf thinning and a green harvest. Once harvested by hand, at a remarkably low yield of 30 hl/ha (almost half that under Valette) the fruit is sorted and transported to the top of the vat-room by conveyor belt, before fermentation on a plot-by-plot basis in temperature-controlled oak vats which replaced the previous cement cuves, and then a maceration for a short period of time. There follow the malolactic fermentations, then up to 24 months in oak, which is naturally 100% new each year (double that under Valette). During this period of time it is notable that the wine will undergo bâtonnage, the stirring of the lees, a Burgundian technique which may enrich the wine, and a practice which has reached a small number of Bordeaux estates of which Pavie is perhaps the best example. What is produced is Château Pavie, the grand vin, naturally bottled without fining or filtration, of which there are about 8000 cases produced per year.

So what of the wines? I am, I hope, permitted an opinion, although I sheepishly admit that I offer it tentatively and with some reservation. With a history of fervent disagreements between critics, which is erroneously interpreted by some as an indicator of a divide between the European and the American palate, it seems that the love or hate of Pavie has taken on a fervour more akin to religion than to wine. Those that rally to the banner of Pavie have an absolute belief that Perse is on the right path; they admire the richness with which the wine is today imbued, its concentration and its depth. They see Perse as a saviour of a superb St Emilion terroir, an outsider who has created one of the finest wines from Bordeaux from what must have been, by implication, a previously under-performing estate. Meanwhile, the opposite view is that the wine is today monolithic, heavy, stolid and unbalanced, lacking the elegance and freshness that some other Premiers Grands Crus Classés of St Emilion provide so readily, and which might have once been found under the aegis of Valette. Lines have been drawn, terse and occasionally derogatory words exchanged, and I am afraid the debate at one point seemed to be not about Pavie but more about absolute self-belief and the egos of the critics themselves, some of whom seemed to forget that the pleasure lies with the taster's experience of the wine, not in the wine itself.

I personally have enjoyed what little experience of Pavie I have had, which is considerably less than some others, but it is at least experience which has looked at Perse's first ever vintage, the 1998. It was a very good wine, rich in texture, but it was not my favourite wine when lined up in a horizontal tasting looking at all the St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé wines of the vintage, excluding Ausone. On the day I preferred Cheval-Blanc, Angélus and Figeac, and I rated Clos Fourtet just as highly. They were perhaps not so richly endowed, but richness does not guarantee pleasure. More recent vintages seem to have a touch more finesse to them, less robust than the 1998, but they are still dark, intense and sweetly concentrated wines. Pavie today is clearly in a very new style compared to what was to be found under Valette, and compared to many of its neighbours. Whether it is better than either, however, is a matter of personal opinion. (7/2/01, updated 31/10/07, 17/3/11)

Contact details:
Address: Château Pavie, 33330 St-Emilion
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 55 75 54
Fax: +33 (0) 5 57 24 63 99
Internet: www.vignoblesperse.com
GPS: 44.883223, -0.151395

Château Pavie - Tasting Notes

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Château Pavie (St Emilion) 2009: An assemblage consisting of Merlot at 70%, Cabernet Franc 20% and Cabernet Sauvignon 10%, alcohol 14.5%, yields 28 hl/ha. A dark core, and a crimson rim, brilliant colours here. Dark and smoky fruit, lots of oak already here, fermented in temperature-controlled wooden vats. Intensely rich in the mouth, a massive texture, beautiful tannins, just as massive as the texture, huge and creamy and yet velvety too. Not the harsh structure I was perhaps expecting. A good acidity to it too. This is a huge and idiosyncratic style of wine which will no doubt incite strong opinions, but I feel I must judge the wine on how it seems to me and how I think it should age; the wine under Perse is now establishing a track record although I confess I have only tasted a few vintages myself. This has the firm structure and balance to age well, and I think it is potentially great. Massive, but needs the cellar! From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 17.5-18.5+/20 (March 2010)

Château Pavie (St Emilion) 2006: A slightly darker purple-crimson hue than the preceding wines, and on the nose a density of Merlot fruit which mixes the characteristics of spicy, dark-fruited cake with dried plums. Not pruney though, there is a fresh fruit character to the intensity. Great creamy presence on the start, revealing more structure through the middle, but at all times the flesh and sweetness of the wine keeps the ripe, peppery tannins at bay. Plenty of the desired acidity too, There is definitely plenty of interest provided here, and the composition is very fine. Too forceful to be described as silky but the integration of texture and tannin is still admirable. Very long, upright, structured finish too. Excellent wine. From a 2006 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 18.5+/20 (November 2010)

Château Pavie (St Emilion) 2004: A very dense and glossy appearance here. The nose is appealingly aromatic, carrying the essence of freshly crushed blackberries, perhaps a little cherry, alongside which there is plenty of spice and aromatics derived from this wines time in oak, which exceeded 24 months. The palate is initially a little surprising, not showing a lot of flesh at first, but this fills out in the midpalate and it has all the rich, creamy texture here that you would expect. There is a wonderful depth of fruit, with a pickling-spice complexity that sings extract, quality and promise to me. Deep, structured, but harmonious, the tannins being firm and defined, but well covered with fruit. This has excellent potential. From a Bordeaux 2004 tasting. 18+/20 (November 2007)

Château Pavie (St Emilion) 1998: My first taste of post-Valette Pavie - Gérard Perse took control here in March 1998. Merlot 70%, Cabernet Franc 20%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10%. Yields are a very low 25 hl/ha. A dark, inky and yet vibrant colour. Very concentrated, with dark fruits on the nose. The palate is dense, concentrated, and rich. There is plenty of extract and texture here, not surprising in view of the bâtonnage employed. The fruit is rich and lovely, the tannins ripe and supple. Toffee and liquorice notes. The most dark, concentrated and textured wine here, but texture is not everything. From a 1998 St Emilion masterclass. 17.5/20 (May 2004)

Château Pavie (St Emilion) 1989: A deep mahogany red. Delightful and elegant fruit. Rich palate, with a creamy texture, an elegant vein of tannins, and good balanced acidity. A superb, structured wine. Ready for drinking now. 18/20 (February 2001)

Château Pavie (St Emilion) 1986: Plenty of elegant fruit on the nose. The palate has sweet, rich, caramel fruit, with tannins representative of the vintage. A touch leaner and harder than the Pavie 1989 - but that goes with the vintage. A sweet, caramel finish. Approachable now but will keep for a few years yet. From a Bordeaux 1986 blind tasting. 17.5/20 (February 2001)