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Chateau Musar

Chateau Musar was founded in 1930 by Gaston Hochar, although since 1959 it has been run by his two sons Serge and Ronald. Serge Hochar is the more prominent of the two, as although he is responsible for making the wine, he also finds time to travel the world to tastings and similar events. Ronald, a lawyer by profession, looks after the more mundane side of the business - distribution, marketing, book-keeping and so on.

Chateau Musar is located in an 18th Century castle in Ghazir, just fifteen miles north of Beirut, in Lebanon. This location, in a region that for many years was ravaged by civil war, placed demands on the Hochar family that most winemakers, fortunately, do not experience. The vineyards, which lie 30 miles east of Ghazir in the Bekaa Valley, were remarkably close to the frontline. Battle raged around the vines throughout the 1983 harvest, and Serge Hochar had to be smuggled in by small boat to make the wine. Similar conditions were endured in 1988 and 1989, and during the latter year both the Hochar family home and the Chateau Musar winery suffered direct hits from shelling. For a short while the wine cellars served a dual purpose, as they made excellent bomb shelters for the local people.

Alongside these troubles, Serge Hochar faces problems with which other vignerons may be more familiar. A distance of 30 miles between vineyards and winery mean that the freshly harvested grapes must endure a slow overland journey before hey are vinified. Maybe this contributes in some way to the style of Musar, particularly the oxidised white. The red Musar is more characterised by volatile acidity, which gives acetone-like aromas on the nose, which may resemble nail-polish remover or even polystyrene cement. Some regard this as a fault, whereas I am in the camp that regards this as typically Musar, and not a point of criticism.

The grand vin here is the red Chateau Musar, a blend which may include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsaut, Carignan, Grenache and Mourvedre. The wine is fermented in concrete, before spending one year in vat, then a year in French oak, before going back to vat for several years. Hochar believes his wine needs years - perhaps ten - before it is ready for drinking, and the wines are already some way towards that age when they are finally released onto the market. The white Chateau Musar is made from native varieties which include Merwah and Obaideh. It has an oxidised style that is too much for some.The wines first appeared on the UK market in 1979, when they were available for tasting at the Bristol Wine Fair. Too many tasters characterise them as Bordeaux-like, Rhône-like or Burgundy-like. It is clear that Musar is none of these things - it is unique. I accept that this wine can polarise opinion; some think it of high quality or at least good value, whereas others regard it is poor quality, faulty winemaking. I agree with the former with the red, but tend to fall in with the opposite camp where the white is concerned, but it is all down to personal taste. In addition there are a number of lesser cuvées which have been added to the range available on the UK market, some as recently as 2005. For a taste of Musar style, with less outlay and for earlier drinking, the wine to try is Hochar Pere et Fils, which is available as red, white and a rosé too. And there are a selection of second wines, the Cuvée Musar range, also red, white and rosé. (13/7/04, updated 26/7/05)

Contact details:
Address: Baroudy str., Sopenco bldg., BP: 281 Ashrafieh, Beirut
Telephone: +961 1-201828, 328111, 328211
Fax: +961 1-201827
Internet: www.chateaumusar.com.lb

Chateau Musar - Tasting Notes

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Chateau Musar Cuvée Blanc Reserve 2003: This is 100% Obaideh, an indigenous white variety, one component of the Chateau Musar Blanc. Rather sweaty nose, of stewed fruit. Soft and unfocused palate, showing oxidation. This has little appeal to my palate. 13/20 (May 2005)

Chateau Musar Blanc 'Hochar Pere et Fils' 2003: This is 100% Merwah, the other main component to Chateau Musar Blanc. Sackcloth nose, notes of animal feed. Again a soft and unfocused palate. Meaty elements. Again, this example has little appeal to my palate. 13/20 (May 2005)

Chateau Musar Cuvée Rosé 2003: Saignée method, blend of grapes, predominantly Cinsaut. Red fruit nose. Full bodied, rather simple palate. Plenty of grip and alcohol here, and a little tannic streak as well, through to the finish. Fair. 13.5/20 (May 2005)

Chateau Musar Rosé 'Hochar Pere et Fils' 2003: This is predominantly Cinsaut, with Grenache, saignée method again. Leafy red fruit nose. Softer palate than the Cuvée Rosé. More approachable. A little grip though. I think this one has just a little more merit, although there is little in it. 13.5/20 (May 2005)

Chateau Musar Cuvée Rouge 2003: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan and Cinsaut (more Cinsaut than the grand vin). Sees no oak. Softly spicy aromatics. Nice palate, showing some good flavour, peppered with the soft, earthy spiciness found on the nose. For early drinking. 14/20 (May 2005)

Chateau Musar 'Hochar Pere et Fils' 2000: Old vines, predominantly Cinsaut, but also Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Carignan. Good depth of fruit on the nose. Spicy oak. What it lacks in concentration, it makes up for with plentiful character. Spiced fruit. Good interest here. 15/20 (May 2005)

Chateau Musar Blanc 1999: The usual blend of Merwah and Obaideh. Deep golden colour; not necessarily a good sign. Meaty, oxidised style. Better structure than the previous two wines. Good grip. Apparent oxidation. It has some merit, but I find it not to my palate. 14/20 (May 2005)

Chateau Musar 1999: Very typical Musar hue, rich and red but with a little bricking. The nose starts off very volatile, with plenty of animally farmyard, then more appealing character, notes of leather, baked black fruits and cinnamon. The palate is soft at first, then there is more substance and grip, with plenty of spice, tannin and texture. This is rich, mouthfilling and structured, and although delicious now - after a couple of hours in a decanter - this will be fine drinking over the next 10-20 years. Classic Musar for Musar fans. From my 1999 vintage Ten Years On tasting. 17+/20 (December 2009)

Chateau Musar 1999: A good depth of colour here. Good, spicy fruit on the nose. Full palate, some concentration, a classic style, ripe and very spicy. This has more power and concentration than I expected. Very good, with the usual Musar potential for the cellar. 16.5+/20 (May 2005)

Chateau Musar 'Hochar Pere et Fils' 1999: Cherry red, with an orange-mahogany tinge out to the rim. Baked black cherry fruit, with warm spice and leather notes. On the palate it is warm, sweet and rustic, with a spicy, baked fruit character. Plenty of firm, peppery acidity which should keep this wine fresh for a few years, Nice tannic backbone. Ready now. 15/20 (July 2004)

Chateau Musar Blanc 1998: Again a rather hot nose, sweaty, with notes of stewed lemons. Soft. Very prominent oxidation again. I know this is what appeals about this cuvée to many, but I think the style is flawed. 13/20 (May 2005)

Chateau Musar 1998: Less dense than the 1999. Some good fruit on the nose, a classic style, but with less obvious spice. Moderate concentration on the palate, showing leather and carraway spice. This does not have the impact of the 1999. Good; will improve in the cellar. 16+/20 (May 2005)

Chateau Musar 1997: A really vibrant, reflective character in the glass, and a fairly typical Musar nose of rather furry fruit, exotic spices leather and a streak of volatile acidity. Rich with plenty of substance on the palate, rather nicely integrated though with well rounded edges. Deeply flavoured, creamy-oily character, and without doubt it has the longevity that Musar is capable of. Enjoy now and over the next decade or two. From a tasting of the 1997 Vintage at ten years of age. 17+/20 (December 2007)

Chateau Musar 1997: At the time of writing, the most recent vintage. Obvious volatile acidity on initial nosing, but this soon disappears behind some baked cherry fruit and leather, and classic gamy, animal notes. What lovely balance on the palate though - the wine positively glides. Good acidity, with some soft, ripe tannins which hardly show until the finish. There's a hint of creamy richness but overall what it has is elegance. Should drink well for five to ten years, and may well keep for longer. 16.5/20 (July 2004)

Chateau Musar Blanc 1996: Fairly deep yellow colour. The nose is heavily oxidised, and I wonder if I'm drinking Madeira for a moment. Similar heavy oxidation on the woody palate, with a medium body, and some sweet fruit towards the finish. Would be interesting if it was fifteen years old, but this level of oxidation in a four year old wine simply makes it difficult to drink. 13.5/20 (December 2000)

Chateau Musar 1996: Quite pale, maturing, orange-brown tinge with an oxblood core. Nose initially quite volatile, leathery, then pepper and tobacco, sweetly baked blackcurrant and raspberry fruit. Classic Musar. Full, rounded, nicely balanced. Still some grip. Good acids. Rustic, grippy edge on endpalate with some slightly spiky acidity here. Has certainly developed over the last two years, with a fuller texture and greater interest as far as flavour is concerned, but still shows the structure that will carry this along in the cellar for many years to come. From a 1996 vintage ten years on tasting. 16+/20 (December 2006)

Chateau Musar 1996: Pale cherry red hue, with little density even at the core, fading to a pink-orange rim. Classic Musar on the nose - leather, spice, the sweetness of baked fruit, game. Like the 1997 this wine slides across the palate with ease, with a silky, rounded mouthfeel and lovely, balanced acidity. Game and baked fruit flavours on the midpalate. It seems very approachable, and overall a light, elegant style, but judging by the mild tannic flourish on the finish this will benefit from a couple more years in the cellar - and then drink well for five years plus. 15.5/20 (July 2004)

Chateau Musar 1996: At best a moderate intensity of colour, fading to pink at the rim, cut through with a tawny note. A clean nose for Musar, with strawberry and cherry fruit, and a touch of polished leather. On the palate it is full bodied, with a warm, rounded texture. There's plenty of fruit, together with spice and leather character, and good tannins which creep up through the midpalate and give a spicy edge to the finish. There's barely a hint of the trademark Musar volatile acidity, which is only noticeable if you go looking for it. 15.5+/20 (July 2002) Label

Chateau Musar 1995: A fairly deep burgundy-oxblood hue, fading to a pink-orange rim. Classic Musar nose; sweet strawberry and cherry fruit, overlaid with leather, sweetly marinated and grilled meat, mushrooms and plenty of ethyl acetate Musar character. Dripping with ripe, sweet fruits on the palate, with a citrus-peel, cinnamon and coffee-tinged character, and a volatile finish, the palate is full-bodied with a firm structure and plenty of substance. This is a Musar set for the long haul. Very good indeed. From a 1995 vintage ten years on tasting. 17+/20 (December 2005)

Chateau Musar 1995: This is a fascinating example of how the memory can deceive. I have tasted both the 1995 and the 1996 before, but never together. Head-to-head the 1995 clearly takes it. This has a touch more depth of colour in the glass. Classic, full-blown, in your face Musar on the nose, with piles of volatile acids resembling a blend of polystyrene cement and acetone - this is for Musar-lovers only - although with time in the glass the intensity of aroma does lessen. Alongside are some roasted fruits, with touches of orange peel and cinnamon. Great substance on the palate, good extract, plenty of body and texture. Roast fruits and game, still with a ripe tannic shroud that will fall away soon. Balanced, but firm. Needs three to four years in the cellar but will then drink for a decade or more. 16.5/20 (July 2004)

Chateau Musar 1995: This wine has a good rich colour. Although it's not quite as deep and eye-catching as the 1994, it looks very good nevertheless. The nose is full of leather and spice, with a slightly tarry-edged blackberry fruit, and the hallmark Musar volatile acidity. Despite these classic aromas the palate still has a few surprises, with strong animalistic flavours, with roasted herbs and meat, together with some style and elegance coming from the fruit. This is great stuff - in fact, delicious! 16.5+/20 (April 2002)

Chateau Musar 1995: A deeply coloured wine, although not as dense as the 1994. Trademark volatile acidity is quite prominent on the nose, together with plenty of fruit. A nicely structured palate, with a good level of spicy black fruit and well integrated tannins which stand up well to the still prominent acidity. This has more volatile acidity than the 1994, but it is still a lovely Musar for those that follow this producer. Tasted at Viva. 16.5/20 (September 2001)

Chateau Musar 'Hochar Pere et Fils' 1995: Moderately coloured wine. Nose of cloves, cinnamon and spicy fruit. A definite family resemblance to the Château Musar, but with less complexity. A little thin on the forepalate, but it develops body, together with macerated fruit and spice. Sufficient acidity. Hint of leather on the finish. 14/20 (December 2000)

Chateau Musar 1994: Trademark Musar volatile acidity. It seems integrated, and there are good, meaty fruit aromas alongside it. Big and full bodied, like a mature Rhône, packed with so much spicy fruit, and a touch of Spanish leather. Full but integrated tannins. Good weight, fruit persisting through to the length. Undoubtedly still on the way up, although drinking fine just now. A second bottle tasted a few months later had much more prominent volatile acidity. Leathery black and red berry fruit on the nose, with an earthy background. Full bodied and richly textured, it has lots of fruit on the palate, with integrated tannins and strong acidity. More leathery notes, but not at all earthy, with a peppery edge. It has a wonderful length. This is a top Musar. 18/20 (May 2001)

Chateau Musar 1993: Tasted at home. Caution here; purchased unseen at auction, very clean labels, this is one of two bottles showing signs of seepage and slightly low fill. Good colour for Musar; pale but no browning. Classic nose; meaty, leather, cinnamon and cloves, roasted fruit, some volatility. No signs of oxidation. Lovely weight on the palate, with roasted meat flavour. A little coarsely put together, but certainly no significant damage. Nice freshness despite the rich, slightly oily feel. Firm finish, full of flavour. Will go another decade in the cellar, with certainty. 16.5+/20 (May 2005)

Chateau Musar 1993: Paler than the other wines here. A classic nose, definitely Musar, with roasted-stewed-burnt fruit, cloves, and a lovely, sweet, rounded edge. On the palate there is a full, sweet, rounded mouthfeel, with a polyphenol influenced character, but it has the fruit and structure to carry this. Still has some grip - a trace of tannin still remains - and there is plenty of acidity. From a 1993 Vintage ten year on tasting. 17.5/20 (December 2003)

Chateau Musar 1993: Just the faintest hint of tawny to this vibrant red-purple wine. On the nose, a medley of cloves and cinnamon spices, black pepper, black fruit, leather, oak and an acetone-like whiff of volatile acidity. The palate is delicately textured, with creamy black fruit and well integrated oak. Medium bodied, soft tannins and balancing acidity. Spicy notes pervade the palate through to the finish. Nice length. 16.5+/20 (December 2000)

Chateau Musar 1991: The once dense colour is continuing to fade here. The core still shows an oxblood hue, but the rim fades to a pink-orange reflecting fourteen years of ageing. A lovely nose, with dried meats - perhaps goat, Moroccan leather, a little rubber and some slightly volatile, macerated red fruit. Beautiful texture on the palate, which is full, mouthfilling and creamy. There is a slight acid sharpness lifting the palate, and a wealth of macerated fruits, leather and spice. A touch of tannin, and plenty of tingling spice, with a lemony edge, on the finish. This is absolutely splendid - one of the best Musars, along with the 1994 (when it's not corked), that I have tasted. 18/20 (July 2004)

Chateau Musar 1991: A pale mahogany colour, with a classically unusual nose, with leather, macerated berry fruit and a good lick of volatile acidity. This is classic Musar, easily identifiable on the nose. The palate has sweet, leathery fruit, with animal and farmyard nuances, and that VA is still quite evident. Tannins are nicely integrated. There's a fantastic sweet and spicy intensity of smooth fruit on the finish. Drinking beautifully. From a 1991 vintage ten year on blind tasting. 18+/20 (December 2001)

Chateau Musar 1989: A mature hue, showing the pallor of age, but still with decent density at the core. A lovely nose, full of meat and leather character, with macerated fruits, prunes, dates and a hint of cloves. The palate is impressive. It has a rich, supple, velvety texture, with plenty of sweetly mature fruit. A touch creamy, it still has some peppery tannins showing through the midpalate and finish. What a presence - delicious - and yet will still improve with another three to five years in the cellar. 18/20 (July 2004)

Chateau Musar 1988: A fabulous colour for sixteen years of age. Deep and rich, with an earthy density, although obviously it has the hue of maturity. The nose is sweet, meaty, complex, earthy and vegetal, with treacle toffee nuances. It is a little high-toned and lifted, and with time there are notes of leather and cloves too. Full palate, creamy and balanced, with a little spicy grip although otherwise it is completely ready. But it has the substance, frame and fruit to go for perhaps ten years yet. Even a little fat here alongside the slightly tangy mature fruit. 18.5/20 (July 2004)

Chateau Musar 1981: Unsurprisingly this is the most pallid wine, although it has a beautiful colour, with a brick-red core fading to an orange rim. The nose, initially a little reticent, yields to reveal sweet meats, camomile, liquorice and leather, and then a metallic and vegetal richness. Beautiful texture on entry, the midpalate loses its initial hollow streak to show a creamy svelteness. Great character, so typical of Musar, with meaty-leather flavour. You can sense a little extract and still a little grip, particularly in the finish which is stained with tannin. Still going strong at twenty-three years of age! Excellent. 18.5/20 (July 2004)