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Chateau Léoville-Barton

The wines of Anthony Barton, and most specifically those of Chateau Léoville-Barton, exist in a unique place; there are few wines held in such high regard by the press, the trade and consumer alike, whilst also maintaining a reputation for good value. Add in an amiable proprietor, of Irish descent, who has been outspoken on the matter of Bordeaux as a wine for giving pleasure - for drinking no less - rather than as a vehicle for investment, and you perhaps have something close to the perfect Bordeaux chateau.

The history of the Barton family in Bordeaux may by traced back to 1722, when Irishman Thomas Barton left his native Curraghmore for foreign shores, settling in Bordeaux. Here he established a wine trading company, this region being a natural choice for such a venture; not only is there a ready supply of fine wines, but also a major Atlantic seaport for shipping overseas. He enjoyed considerable success, and in 1745 was sufficiently flush to purchase Chateau Le Boscq in St Estèphe. Thomas remained in Bordeaux, actively buying and selling wine, and many of his descendents have been no less active in the wine trade. His grandson, Hugh Barton, was a notable figure both in the family history and in Bordeaux as a whole. With his partner Daniel Guestier he founded one of the region's best known and long-lived merchant businesses, Barton & Guestier, a name still in existence today. Although by now the Bartons were well settled in Bordeaux, they always maintained strong ties with their family in Ireland, to where Hugh fled when his position put him at risk of meeting the wrong end of the guillotine during the Revolution. At this time it was Guestier that looked after their business affairs, until Barton could safely return.

It was during the early 19th Century that Hugh really consolidated the family's position in Bordeaux, starting in 1821 with the purchase of Chateau Langoa-Barton, at that time known as Pontet-Langlois. Within a few years he had also acquired a portion of the great Léoville estate, which had been broken up following the departure of the Marquis de la Cases. Other family members that had not fled campaigned for the return of the estate, and much of it was indeed returned to the Marquis’ two children. That taken by the son, Jean-Pierre, was destined to become what we know today as Léoville-Las-Cases, whilst the portion that came to his daughter, Jeanne, was passed onto her daughter, who married Baron Jean-Marie de Poyferré; this is the part that is today known as Léoville-Poyferré. The third portion, however, was auctioned off, the purchaser being none other than Hugh Barton. It is said that Hugh wished to sell this on to the émigré Marquis, but as he was unable to produce sufficient funds Hugh Barton became the sole proprietor of this section of vineyards, and so Chateau Léoville-Barton was born. In truth there is no significant chateau or even a cellar for winemaking here, this being a cleaved off portion of a much grander estate, and so Hugh was forced to use his cellars at Langoa-Barton to make the wines of both properties. This is an arrangement that has continued over the subsequent years, as the chateau and vineyards were handed down from one generation to the next, ultimately to today's proprietor, Anthony Barton. At over 180 years this is the longest period of single-family ownership of any property in Bordeaux.

At the dawning of the 20th Century it was Bertram Hugh Barton that was running the business, both Langoa and Léoville-Barton, the latter now classified as a deuxième cru in the 1855 classification. In 1927 Bertram was killed in a hunting accident in Ireland, forcing his son, Ronald, who had joined the family firm only three years before, to take on the role of proprietor. Ronald took up residence in Bordeaux, although there was a brief hiatus in his tenure, as he was forced to flee the country during World War II. Barton's properties remained largely intact, however, thanks to Ireland's neutrality and the efforts of the Guestier family in protecting the estate from the occupying forces during his absence. Upon his return there was much work to be done to restore the estates to their former condition, however, and there was extensive planting of new vines. There was no modernisation in the cellar though; Ronald was a traditionalist, and unlike many of his neighbours he eschewed the new technologies that were gradually appearing across Bordeaux. Despite this, the wines made during his tenure were very well received, although in retrospect it may be that quality was not as high as it might have been.

Ronald Barton died without an heir in 1986, but ready to take control was his nephew, Anthony (right), the current proprietor. Anthony had already moved from Ireland - where the family maintain a home at Straffan House - to Bordeaux in 1951. He had a clear interest in wine, and already had plenty of experience under his belt when he took the reins of the family properties. Anthony Barton has a noble aim - to maintain the high quality of both Langoa-Barton and Léoville-Barton, to continue to produce wines in a classic St Julien style, and - importantly to the final consumer - to release them at a reasonable price. Until recent vintages, Léoville-Barton has had a place in the hearts of many claret drinkers as offering a combination of remarkably good quality - the property is frequently referred to as one of Bordeaux's super-seconds - with great value. With rising prices the ratio is perhaps becoming less favourable, but quality remains extremely high nevertheless.

There are now 47 ha of vineyards at Chateau Léoville-Barton, lying close to the Gironde, sandwiched between the water and the huge expanse of vineyards belonging to Chateau Talbot. They have a typical St Julien terroir of gravelly soils over deeper clay. The vines are 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, the remainder being 20% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, reflecting the classic, Cabernet-dominated wine produced at Léoville-Barton. There are a significant proportion of old vines, another important influence on quality. As mentioned above, vinification is performed in the cellar at Langoa-Barton, as there is in fact no chateau at Léoville-Barton. Fermentation is in wooden vats, temperature controlled, with pumping over, with a maceration of about two weeks, depending on the vintage. The wine will spend up to 20 months in oak, 50% new each year, and is fined and filtered prior to bottling. This all occurs under the watchful eye of estate manager Michel Raoult together with Anthony Barton, and representing the next generation his daughter, Lilian. There are two principal wines produced, totalling about 20000 cases produced per annum. The grand vin is Chateau Léoville-Barton, the second wine is the frequently successful La Reserve de Léoville-Barton.

As I have already alluded in the profile, Léoville-Barton has appealed to many, including myself, not only on the grounds of quality but also on the good value. Anthony Barton was the claret drinker's dream proprietor - turning out fabulous wines which were sold at fair prices. In great vintages, such as 2000, Chateau Léoville-Barton would often have a prix de sortie several hundred pounds less than comparable wines from other highly regarded second growth estates. This practice was wholly admirable, and I applaud Anthony Barton for maintaining his philosophy of wine as a drink rather than a trading and investment vehicle. Sadly, however, there was a downside. I have heard unsubstantiated rumours that the practice was unpopular with neighbouring proprietors who appeared more than a little avaricious when their prices were contrasted with those of the Bartons. Secondly, Anthony lost out; brisk trading saw the asking price for a case of Léoville-Barton 2000 double within a few days; naturally, none of that money ever found its way back to those that made the wine. No doubt these were strong arguments in favour of a rather higher opening price come the next "vintage of the century", which was 2005. The high price will no doubt benefit the Bartons greatly, but the most obvious and unfortunate adverse effect is that some drinkers are priced out of the market. Criticism of this policy should not be levied against one specific proprietor, of course, but against all Bordeaux. But dealing specifically with Léoville-Barton, I look forward to drinking my 2001, 2002, 2003 and 2004 vintages in the future, and hope that they live up to my expectations, based on many fine experiences with vintages from the 1980s and 1990s. (10/4/01, updated 24/8/06)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Léoville-Barton, 33250 St-Julien-Beychevelle
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 59 06 05
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 59 14 29
Internet: www.leoville-barton.com

Chateau Léoville-Barton - Tasting Notes

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Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2008: A different style to Langoa, with darker fruit, and more extraction I would think. although it maintains a welcome freshness. Textured and dense on the palate, although with some suppleness, but there is also a seam of ripe, well matched tannins. Forceful yet harmonious, with a big rounded finish dominated by tannin. As usual this wine is more backward than many of its peers in this early stage of its life, but the potential and raw substance is all here. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 17.5-18.5+/20 (April 2009)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2007: A very attractive nose here, partly the sweetness of the oak but also the fruit, presented in a clean, reserved, restrained style. Polished, with a smooth outer shell on the palate, with gentle fruit. A lifted style, with roast herb elements, and a gentle linear finish. A little substance towards the end as well. This will come good with time, but as always is one for the classicists. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 16+/20 (October 2009)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2007: There is some sweet fruit showing on the nose here, but it is not the most expressive nose. It has a reserved quality of aroma, and on the palate a very cool, stony and detached presence. A very upright and firm composition, the tannins hard but well hidden. Rather sandy fruit. Another classic, vin de garde which has good potential. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2006: A dark layer of cherry fruit here, although presented in a reserved fashion, with a dense macerated richness hidden behind the oak and the aroma of dusty cabinets. Very rounded, supple entry, with lots of austere structure on the midpalate. There is a pile of grip beneath, but it is never truly austere, and it has fresh acidity. Certainly in need of some cellar time. From a tasting of 2006 Bordeaux at two years of age. 17.5+/20 (October 2008)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2006: Attractive, open fruit, strong, appealing, and even a little delicate perfume which is a tad surprising. Nice weight, good texture, rather chalky tannins below which are not wholly covered by the wine. Firm, fresh acidity, it has a lot of structure and borderline sufficient fruit. It has some vivacity. It is for the long haul and is probably good for it, but a note of caution here, this is not a great Léoville-Barton. And will the price be right? From my 2006 Bordeaux assessment. 16-17?/20 (April 2007)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2005: Much less expressive on the nose compared to Langoa, but certainly in possession of great purity, with fine and reserved black fruit character. Dark, heady, roasted-herb perfume, it is actually very expressive but it is also clear that this character lies on top of a much more solid and substantial wine with much deeper foundations. The palate is glorious; immediately expansive and yet tightly composed at the same time. Aromatic, perfumed, yet rich and creamy, but linear and well framed. I know I have preferred the remarkable Langoa in previous tasting but Léoville-Barton is beginning to show its breeding now. Brilliant. From a 2005 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 19+/20 (November 2009)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2005: Immediately following the Langoa, big brother Léoville shows a very dark, pure and dense yet also rather more reserved nose. It is concentrated and pure, but also withdrawn. A very serious structure, with a lovely grip of tannins which are well compensated for by rich texture and extraction and a fine balance of dense, ripe fruit. This is superb quality and although less flattering than Langoa on the day this is clearly a wine of great significance which with appropriate time in the cellar will be truly great. Excellent. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 19+/20 (October 2007)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2005: CS 75%, M 20%, CF 5%. A very, very densely coloured wine, with a vibrant pink rim. Dense and complex nose, and yet restrained, showing only some pickling spices and beetroot aromas. Supple fruit on the palate, sitting quite distant from the firm, backward tannic structure. The acidity is correct. At present this is a monolithic collection of wine components in a glass, showing little finesse or appeal, but I think it is a wine with a great future. May well warrant a score beyond the range I have predicted today. From my 2005 Bordeaux en primeur tasting. 17-18+/20 (April 2006)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2004: There is a toasted edge to the bramble fruit here, with a chalky, rather bright but reserved, restrained nose. Soft on the palate, as restrained as the nose suggested, elegant but of substance. A very old-school composition, a firm core of tannin surrounded by gently polished fruit, firm acidity, and plenty of stone, mineral and pepper in the mouth. It terminates in a ripe, gritty, meaty finish. Plenty of grip here, really very good indeed. From a 2004 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 17.5+/20 (November 2008)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2004: A firm nose, with fine fruit, presented in a reserved style, already quite unmistakeable despite this wine's young age. Some good flesh on the palate, but here reserved and stylish also. Very appealing, fresh, lively, with some delicious dark fruit. Very good indeed. Another elevation in score here I see. From a tasting of 2004 Bordeaux. 17.5+/20 (April 2007)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2004: A good colour, with moderate depth. Really rather classic claretty fruit on the nose, perhaps just a little note of cherry that is a little incongruous, with a little oak-derived nutty character too. Elegant style on entry, quite apparent and attractive balance, with a lovely weight set against fresh acidity and a ripe structure. It is a little reticent but gives some good flavours when worked hard. This has very good potential, and simply needs time, probably 8-12 years. 17+/20 (April 2006)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2003: Denser, more showy than the Langoa. Deeper, richer, darker damson fruit. And it's more supple on the palate, with a balanced style, and a ripe, succulent character. It does also show a firmer core of admittedly creamy tannins, however, although there is plenty of sweet, dark black fruits. This has good substance and potential for the cellar. From my 2003 Bordeaux assessment. 17+/20 (October 2005)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1999: This has a good colour, just fading a little bit but this is quite appropriate for the vintage. Obvious advancing maturity on the nose, with a bloody, beefy, iron nail character. Rather severe style on the palate, very precise and perhaps even austere. Hard-edged tannins, reserved, even brutal. There is some decent fruit, but I'm a little concerned as to how this well pan out. Will there be anything of interest left when the tannins have resolved? Nevertheless, there is appeal in parts. 16+/20 (April 2006)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St-Julien) 1998: This has a more classic, elegant and restrained nose when compared with my memory of the 1996, the most recent young vintage I have tasted, which was in April. The palate, nevertheless, is soft and round, with a cassis character to the fruit. The soft richness is underpinned by a good structure of dry tannins and balanced acidity. 16.5+/20 (November 2001)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1996: A chance to reassess this wine which seemed opulent and atypical when last tasted in April 2001. The colour is youthful although, unlike all the other wines in this flight, it has the faintest tinge of maturity. A classic nose - minerals and blackcurrant fruit, and an impressive palate - dense, sweet, intense fruit. Lovely texture, ripe tannins and correct acidity. This displays more typicity than when last assessed. Needs two or three years in the cellar. Found hiding in a vertical tasting of Chateau Léoville-Poyferré.. 18.5+/20 (January 2003)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1996: Similarly dense and dark, a feature that had me mark these two wines as the pair of 1996s. Closed on the nose. Strange, very sweet pastille fruit on the palate. Good tannic structure, but not at all austere. Seems opulent and a touch New World in style. Will be interesting to see what happens to that sweet cassis fruit. 18.5+/20 (April 2001)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1995: A deep, ruby garnet colour. The nose screams young wine - ground coffee, toffee oak and ripe blackcurrant fruit. On the palate some rich fruit with balanced acidity and soft tannins which only really attack on the finish. Delicious, and just about ready for drinking. 18+/20 (April 2001)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1994: A lovely colour in the decanter, showing some maturity but still with depth and vibrancy. Quite a classic, reserved yet stylish nose, with aromas of iron and claretty, charred meat, with a violet perfume too. Fresh style on the palate, rich in character, but a touch of austerity that comes with the vintage I think. It has sufficient flesh on its bones though, a firm texture that matches nicely the backbone of well integrating tannin, which is certainly further gone than my last tasting in 2005. Firm acidity. Very upright and correct. Very good drinking from an occasionally under-rated vintage. From a 1994 Bordeaux tasting. 18+/20 (April 2007)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1994: The second bottle from my case. Lovely colour still, midway between youth and maturity. A nose of maturing fruit, with notes of iron filings and violet perfume, with a chalky, dusty edge. The palate has advanced sufficiently since my last tasting; very approachable, with a nicely plump midpalate, a suggestion of crystalline blackcurrant fruit, underpinned by fine structure. Still shows a little wave of ripe tannins on the finish, which probably still need three or so years to settle, but it is drinking very well now. I will enjoy watching this over the next 10-15 years. 18+/20 (August 2005)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1994: The first from a case. A dense colour, showing a little maturity, but with good colour right up to the rim. A classic nose, with cedar, smoke and minerals perfumed with violets and maturing fruit. Rich but fresh on the palate, with mineral-edged fruit, still with a firm streak of tannins which need some cellar time to settle out. The texture though is lovely, not quite sumptuous, but certainly ample. Needs five years plus, and will easily drink for a decade at peak. 17+/20 (August 2004)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1994: A slightly darker wine, with a soft, ripe blackcurrant fruit and coffee nose. A plump but more tannic palate with ripe blackcurrant fruit. Rich texture, but again more tannic on the finish. Has potential. 17.5+/20 (April 2001)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1990: One of the paler wines in the flight, but still an appealing purple-garnet colour. Open nose, with dense , blackcurrant cassis fruit. Rounded structure on the palate, but with quite a prominent tannic backbone, so much so that I initially wondered if this was the 1986 (until I got to the 1986, that is). Good acidity with plump raspberry and blackberry fruit. Slightly tarry, sooty finish with all those tannins. 18/20 (April 2001)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1989: Wow! This wine has clear elegance on the nose. There's a delightful presence of mineral, restrained fruit. This impression is unchanged with the palate, which has fantastic stony fruit, with a beautiful structure. Elegant, soft tannins with balanced acidity. Still seems a little primary, and undoubtedly has some further potential yet. This is amazing wine, showing very well tonight. From a Bordeaux 1989 blind horizontal tasting. 19+/20 (January 2002)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1989: Similar hue, but less dense. More open, with a cedary, blackcurrant nose. This seems quite austere, and somewhat hard, particularly on the finish. Still has some unintegrated tannins. Stony, curranty fruit. Not showing that well tonight. 16.5+?/20 (April 2001)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1988: A ruby garnet colour, even more open on the nose, with smoky, weedy blackcurrant fruit, and some new oak. Packed with fruit on the palate, with better integration of tannins. Elegant texture, medium bodied, and balanced. More of that lovely weedy fruit, but despite this my overall opinion is a rich, firm, evolved wine from a good vintage. 17/20 (April 2001)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1988: Deep red ruby colour, with tremendous legs coating the inside of the glass. Good nose with a smoky tobacco notes. On the palate a beautiful, elegant mouthfilling wine. Nicely textured fruit, spice and a hint of black pepper. Finishes beautifully with tremendous length. From a Bordeaux 1988 blind horizontal tasting. 18.5/20 (May 2000)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1986: Certainly this has the deepest colour of all the wines in this flight. It is giving very little on the nose, just a momentary hint of caramel oak, but otherwise this is acting really dumb. On the palate it is big, rich and very tannic. Seems very closed down. Those tannins dominate the finish, typical of 1986. 16.5+?/20 (April 2001)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1985: A deep red hue with a touch of tawny. Absolutely classic on the nose – intense mineral fruit, with some notes of caramel. It still has plenty of fruit, lovely tannins and pepper-like acidity. Elegant, medium bodied, and delicious. Classically styled and structured. A touch more impressive than my last tasting about eighteen months ago. From a Bordeaux 1985 blind horizontal tasting. 18.5/20 (September 2002)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1985: A similar colour here. Complex, more curranty blackcurrant fruit this time. Again some new oak. Soft but well structured on the palate. Firm but integrating tannins, smoky and curranty fruit. Rich wine, with a spicy, curranty, roasted herb, cigar-smoke finish. Good complexity. 17/20 (April 2001)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1981: On the nose we have some fruit with a lick of graphite, but this is spoiled by a dirty, vegetal note which becomes more obvious and woody with time. A corked wine. Nevertheless, fairly lush on the palate, spicy and peppery, but marred by the musty notes of TCA. Underneath there is good structure. The finish is dirty and harsh. What a crying shame, this would have been a wonderful wine. From a Bordeaux 1981 blind horizontal tasting. Not rated. (September 2001)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1961: Chateau bottled. A lovely, mature, claretty appearance. The nose has a vibrancy, a meaty-minerally character, deep and stylish, clearly very good quality. Rounded, complete, stylish, with plenty of substance and texture. A slowly fading finish. This is very good indeed and is certainly a challenger for top wine of this flight which focuses on St Julien. 17.5/20 (June 2007)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1961: A second bottle, also chateau bottled. Shipped by Avery's. An opportunity to test the maxim that at this age there are only great bottles, not great wines. Unfortunately, this one was corked. Both of these notes are from a 1961 Bordeaux tasting. Not scored. (June 2007)