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Chateau Léoville-Barton
The wines of Anthony Barton, and most specifically those of Chateau Léoville-Barton, exist in a unique place; there are few wines held in such high regard by the press, the trade and consumer alike, whilst also maintaining a reputation for good value. Add in an amiable proprietor, of Irish descent, who has been outspoken on the matter of Bordeaux as a wine for giving pleasure - for drinking no less - rather than as a vehicle for investment, and you perhaps have something close to the perfect Bordeaux chateau.
The history of the Barton family in Bordeaux may by traced back to 1722, when Irishman Thomas Barton left his native Curraghmore for foreign shores, settling in Bordeaux. Here he established a wine trading company, this region being a natural choice for such a venture; not only is there a ready supply of fine wines, but also a major Atlantic seaport for shipping overseas. He enjoyed considerable success, and in 1745 was sufficiently flush to purchase Chateau Le Boscq in St Estèphe. Thomas remained in Bordeaux, actively buying and selling wine, and many of his descendents have been no less active in the wine trade. His grandson, Hugh Barton, was a notable figure both in the family history and in Bordeaux as a whole. With his partner Daniel Guestier he founded one of the region's best known and long-lived merchant businesses, Barton & Guestier, a name still in existence today. Although by now the Bartons were well settled in Bordeaux, they always maintained strong ties with their family in Ireland, to where Hugh fled when his position put him at risk of meeting the wrong end of the guillotine during the Revolution. At this time it was Guestier that looked after their business affairs, until Barton could safely return.
It was during the early 19th Century that Hugh really consolidated the family's position in Bordeaux, starting in 1821 with the purchase of Chateau Langoa-Barton, at that time known as Pontet-Langlois. Within a few years he had also acquired a portion of the great Léoville estate, which had been broken up following the departure of the Marquis de la Cases. Other family members that had not fled campaigned for the return of the estate, and much of it was indeed returned to the Marquis’ two children. That taken by the son, Jean-Pierre, was destined to become what we know today as Léoville-Las-Cases, whilst the portion that came to his daughter, Jeanne, was passed onto her daughter, who married Baron Jean-Marie de Poyferré; this is the part that is today known as Léoville-Poyferré. The third portion, however, was auctioned off, the purchaser being none other than Hugh Barton. It is said that Hugh wished to sell this on to the émigré Marquis, but as he was unable to produce sufficient funds Hugh Barton became the sole proprietor of this section of vineyards, and so Chateau Léoville-Barton was born. In truth there is no significant chateau or even a cellar for winemaking here, this being a cleaved off portion of a much grander estate, and so Hugh was forced to use his cellars at Langoa-Barton to make the wines of both properties. This is an arrangement that has continued over the subsequent years, as the chateau and vineyards were handed down from one generation to the next, ultimately to today's proprietor, Anthony Barton. At over 180 years this is the longest period of single-family ownership of any property in Bordeaux.
At the dawning of the 20th Century it was Bertram Hugh Barton that was running the business, both Langoa and Léoville-Barton, the latter now classified as a deuxième cru in the 1855 classification. In 1927 Bertram was killed in a hunting accident in Ireland, forcing his son, Ronald, who had joined the family firm only three years before, to take on the role of proprietor. Ronald took up residence in Bordeaux, although there was a brief hiatus in his tenure, as he was forced to flee the country during World War II. Barton's properties remained largely intact, however, thanks to Ireland's neutrality and the efforts of the Guestier family in protecting the estate from the occupying forces during his absence. Upon his return there was much work to be done to restore the estates to their former condition, however, and there was extensive planting of new vines. There was no modernisation in the cellar though; Ronald was a traditionalist, and unlike many of his neighbours he eschewed the new technologies that were gradually appearing across Bordeaux. Despite this, the wines made during his tenure were very well received, although in retrospect it may be that quality was not as high as it might have been.
Ronald Barton died
without an heir in 1986, but ready to take control was his nephew,
Anthony (right), the current proprietor. Anthony had already moved from
Ireland - where the family maintain a home at Straffan House - to Bordeaux in
1951. He had a clear interest in wine, and already had plenty
of experience under his belt when he took the reins of the family
properties. Anthony Barton has a noble aim - to maintain the high quality of both Langoa-Barton and
Léoville-Barton, to continue to produce wines in a classic
St Julien
style, and - importantly to the final consumer - to release them at a
reasonable price. Until recent vintages, Léoville-Barton has had a place
in the hearts of many claret drinkers as offering a combination of
remarkably good quality - the property is frequently referred to as one
of Bordeaux's super-seconds - with great value. With rising prices the
ratio is perhaps becoming less favourable, but quality remains extremely high nevertheless.
There are now 47 ha of vineyards at Chateau Léoville-Barton, lying close to the Gironde, sandwiched between the water and the huge expanse of vineyards belonging to Chateau Talbot. They have a typical St Julien terroir of gravelly soils over deeper clay. The vines are 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, the remainder being 20% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, reflecting the classic, Cabernet-dominated wine produced at Léoville-Barton. There are a significant proportion of old vines, another important influence on quality. As mentioned above, vinification is performed in the cellar at Langoa-Barton, as there is in fact no chateau at Léoville-Barton. Fermentation is in wooden vats, temperature controlled, with pumping over, with a maceration of about two weeks, depending on the vintage. The wine will spend up to 20 months in oak, 50% new each year, and is fined and filtered prior to bottling. This all occurs under the watchful eye of estate manager Michel Raoult together with Anthony Barton, and representing the next generation his daughter, Lilian. There are two principal wines produced, totalling about 20000 cases produced per annum. The grand vin is Chateau Léoville-Barton, the second wine is the frequently successful La Reserve de Léoville-Barton.
As I have already alluded in the profile, Léoville-Barton has appealed to many, including myself, not only on the grounds of quality but also on the good value. Anthony Barton was the claret drinker's dream proprietor - turning out fabulous wines which were sold at fair prices. In great vintages, such as 2000, Chateau Léoville-Barton would often have a prix de sortie several hundred pounds less than comparable wines from other highly regarded second growth estates. This practice was wholly admirable, and I applaud Anthony Barton for maintaining his philosophy of wine as a drink rather than a trading and investment vehicle. Sadly, however, there was a downside. I have heard unsubstantiated rumours that the practice was unpopular with neighbouring proprietors who appeared more than a little avaricious when their prices were contrasted with those of the Bartons. Secondly, Anthony lost out; brisk trading saw the asking price for a case of Léoville-Barton 2000 double within a few days; naturally, none of that money ever found its way back to those that made the wine. No doubt these were strong arguments in favour of a rather higher opening price come the next "vintage of the century", which was 2005. The high price will no doubt benefit the Bartons greatly, but the most obvious and unfortunate adverse effect is that some drinkers are priced out of the market. Criticism of this policy should not be levied against one specific proprietor, of course, but against all Bordeaux. But dealing specifically with Léoville-Barton, I look forward to drinking my 2001, 2002, 2003 and 2004 vintages in the future, and hope that they live up to my expectations, based on many fine experiences with vintages from the 1980s and 1990s. (10/4/01, updated 24/8/06)
Contact details:
Address: Chateau Léoville-Barton, 33250 St-Julien-Beychevelle
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 59 06 05
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 59 14 29
Internet:
www.leoville-barton.com
Chateau Léoville-Barton - Tasting Notes
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Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2008:
A different style to Langoa, with darker fruit, and more extraction I would
think. although it maintains a welcome freshness. Textured and dense on the
palate, although with some suppleness, but there is also a seam of ripe, well
matched tannins. Forceful yet harmonious, with a big rounded finish dominated by
tannin. As usual this wine is more backward than many of its peers in this early
stage of its life, but the potential and raw substance is all here. From my
2008 Bordeaux
primeur assessment. 17.5-18.5+/20 (April 2009)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2007: There is some sweet fruit showing on the nose here, but it is not the most
expressive nose. It has a reserved quality of aroma, and on the palate a very
cool, stony and detached presence. A very upright and firm composition, the
tannins hard but well hidden. Rather sandy fruit. Another classic, vin de garde
which has good potential. From my
2007 Bordeaux
en primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (April 2008)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2006: A dark layer of cherry fruit here, although presented in a reserved fashion,
with a dense macerated richness hidden behind the oak and the aroma of dusty
cabinets. Very rounded, supple entry, with lots of austere structure on the
midpalate. There is a pile of grip beneath, but it is never truly austere, and
it has fresh acidity. Certainly in need of some cellar time. From a tasting of
2006 Bordeaux
at two years of age. 17.5+/20 (October 2008)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2006: Attractive, open fruit,
strong, appealing, and even a little delicate perfume which is a tad surprising.
Nice weight, good texture, rather chalky tannins below which are not wholly
covered by the wine. Firm, fresh acidity, it has a lot of structure and
borderline sufficient fruit. It has some vivacity. It is for the long haul and
is probably good for it, but a note of caution here, this is not a great
Léoville-Barton. And will the price be right? From my
2006 Bordeaux
assessment. 16-17?/20 (April 2007)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2005: Immediately following the Langoa, big
brother Léoville shows a very dark, pure and dense yet also rather more reserved
nose. It is concentrated and pure, but also withdrawn. A very serious structure,
with a lovely grip of tannins which are well compensated for by rich texture and
extraction and a fine balance of dense, ripe fruit. This is superb quality and
although less flattering than Langoa on the day this is clearly a wine of great
significance which with appropriate time in the cellar will be truly great.
Excellent. From my tasting of
2005 Bordeaux at two
years of age. 19+/20 (October 2007)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2005: CS 75%, M 20%, CF 5%. A very, very
densely coloured wine, with a vibrant pink rim. Dense and complex nose, and yet
restrained, showing only some pickling spices and beetroot aromas. Supple fruit
on the palate, sitting quite distant from the firm, backward tannic structure.
The acidity is correct. At present this is a monolithic collection of wine
components in a glass, showing little finesse or appeal, but I think it is a
wine with a great future. May well warrant a score beyond the range I have
predicted today. From my
2005 Bordeaux en primeur
tasting. 17-18+/20 (April 2006)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2004:
There is a toasted edge to the bramble fruit here, with a chalky, rather bright
but reserved, restrained nose. Soft on the palate, as restrained as the nose
suggested, elegant but of substance. A very old-school composition, a firm core
of tannin surrounded by gently polished fruit, firm acidity, and plenty of
stone, mineral and pepper in the mouth. It terminates in a ripe, gritty, meaty
finish. Plenty of grip here, really very good indeed. From a
2004 Bordeaux tasting
at four years of age. 17.5+/20 (November 2008)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2004: A firm nose, with fine fruit, presented in a
reserved style, already quite unmistakeable despite this wine's young age. Some
good flesh on the palate, but here reserved and stylish also. Very appealing,
fresh, lively, with some delicious dark fruit. Very good indeed. Another
elevation in score here I see. From a tasting of
2004 Bordeaux. 17.5+/20 (April 2007)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2004: A good colour, with moderate
depth. Really rather classic claretty fruit on the nose, perhaps just a little
note of cherry that is a little incongruous, with a little oak-derived nutty
character too. Elegant style on entry, quite apparent and attractive balance,
with a lovely weight set against fresh acidity and a ripe structure. It is a
little reticent but gives some good flavours when worked hard. This has very
good potential, and simply needs time, probably 8-12 years. 17+/20 (April 2006)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 2003: Denser, more showy than the
Langoa.
Deeper, richer, darker damson fruit. And it's more supple on the palate, with a
balanced style, and a ripe, succulent character. It does also show a firmer core
of admittedly creamy tannins, however, although there is plenty of sweet, dark
black fruits. This has good substance and potential for the cellar. From my
2003 Bordeaux
assessment. 17+/20 (October 2005)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1999: This has a good colour, just
fading a little bit but this is quite appropriate for the vintage. Obvious
advancing maturity on the nose, with a bloody, beefy, iron nail character.
Rather severe style on the palate, very precise and perhaps even austere.
Hard-edged tannins, reserved, even brutal. There is some decent fruit, but I'm a
little concerned as to how this well pan out. Will there be anything of interest
left when the tannins have resolved? Nevertheless, there is appeal in parts.
16+/20 (April 2006)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St-Julien) 1998: This has a more classic,
elegant and restrained nose when compared with my memory of the 1996, the most
recent young vintage I have tasted, which was in April. The palate,
nevertheless, is soft and round, with a cassis character to the fruit. The soft
richness is underpinned by a good structure of dry tannins and balanced acidity.
16.5+/20 (November 2001)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1996:
A chance to reassess this wine which seemed opulent and atypical when
last tasted in April 2001. The colour is youthful although, unlike all
the other wines in this flight, it has the faintest tinge of maturity. A
classic nose - minerals and blackcurrant fruit, and an impressive palate
- dense, sweet, intense fruit. Lovely texture, ripe tannins and correct
acidity. This displays more typicity than when last assessed. Needs two
or three years in the cellar. Found hiding in a vertical tasting of Chateau
Léoville-Poyferré.. 18.5+/20 (January 2003)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1996: Similarly dense and dark, a feature that had me
mark these two wines as the pair of 1996s. Closed on the
nose. Strange, very sweet pastille fruit on the palate.
Good tannic structure, but not at all austere. Seems
opulent and a touch New World in style. Will be
interesting to see what happens to that sweet cassis
fruit. 18.5+/20 (April 2001)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1995: A deep, ruby garnet colour. The nose screams young
wine - ground coffee, toffee oak and ripe blackcurrant
fruit. On the palate some rich fruit with balanced
acidity and soft tannins which only really attack on the
finish. Delicious, and just about ready for drinking. 18+/20 (April 2001)
Chateau Léoville-Barton
(St Julien) 1994: A lovely colour in the decanter, showing some maturity
but still with depth and vibrancy. Quite a classic, reserved yet stylish nose,
with aromas of iron and claretty, charred meat, with a violet perfume too. Fresh
style on the palate, rich in character, but a touch of austerity that comes with
the vintage I think. It has sufficient flesh on its bones though, a firm texture
that matches nicely the backbone of well integrating tannin, which is certainly
further gone than my last tasting in 2005. Firm acidity. Very upright and
correct. Very good drinking from an occasionally under-rated vintage. From a
1994 Bordeaux tasting.
18+/20 (April 2007)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1994: The second bottle from my
case. Lovely colour still, midway between youth and maturity. A nose of maturing
fruit, with notes of iron filings and violet perfume, with a chalky, dusty edge.
The palate has advanced sufficiently since my last tasting; very approachable,
with a nicely plump midpalate, a suggestion of crystalline blackcurrant fruit,
underpinned by fine structure. Still shows a little wave of ripe tannins on the
finish, which probably still need three or so years to settle, but it is
drinking very well now. I will enjoy watching this over the next 10-15 years.
18+/20 (August 2005)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1994: The first from a case. A
dense colour, showing a little maturity, but with good colour right up to the
rim. A classic nose, with cedar, smoke and minerals perfumed with violets and
maturing fruit. Rich but fresh on the palate, with mineral-edged fruit, still
with a firm streak of tannins which need some cellar time to settle out. The
texture though is lovely, not quite sumptuous, but certainly ample. Needs five
years plus, and will easily drink for a decade at peak. 17+/20 (August 2004)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1994: A slightly darker wine, with a soft, ripe blackcurrant fruit
and coffee nose. A plump but more tannic palate with ripe blackcurrant
fruit. Rich texture, but again more tannic on the finish. Has potential.
17.5+/20 (April 2001)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1990: One of the paler wines in the flight, but still an appealing
purple-garnet colour. Open nose, with dense , blackcurrant cassis fruit.
Rounded structure on the palate, but with quite a prominent tannic
backbone, so much so that I initially wondered if this was the 1986
(until I got to the 1986, that is). Good acidity with plump raspberry
and blackberry fruit. Slightly tarry, sooty finish with all those
tannins. 18/20 (April 2001)
Chateau
Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1989: Wow! This wine has clear
elegance on the nose. There's a delightful presence of
mineral, restrained fruit. This impression is unchanged
with the palate, which has fantastic stony fruit, with a
beautiful structure. Elegant, soft tannins with balanced
acidity. Still seems a little primary, and undoubtedly
has some further potential yet. This is amazing wine,
showing very well tonight. From a
Bordeaux 1989 blind
horizontal tasting. 19+/20 (January 2002)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1989: Similar hue, but less dense. More open, with a
cedary, blackcurrant nose. This seems quite austere, and
somewhat hard, particularly on the finish. Still has some
unintegrated tannins. Stony, curranty fruit. Not
showing that well tonight. 16.5+?/20 (April 2001)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1988: A ruby garnet colour, even more open on the nose, with smoky,
weedy blackcurrant fruit, and some new oak. Packed with fruit on the
palate, with better integration of tannins. Elegant texture, medium
bodied, and balanced. More of that lovely weedy fruit, but despite this
my overall opinion is a rich, firm, evolved wine from a good vintage. 17/20 (April 2001)
Chateau
Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1988: Deep red ruby colour, with
tremendous legs coating the inside of the glass. Good
nose with a smoky tobacco notes. On the palate a
beautiful, elegant mouthfilling wine. Nicely textured
fruit, spice and a hint of black pepper. Finishes
beautifully with tremendous length. From a
Bordeaux 1988 blind
horizontal tasting. 18.5/20 (May 2000)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1986: Certainly this has the deepest colour of all
the wines in this flight. It is giving very little on the
nose, just a momentary hint of caramel oak, but otherwise
this is acting really dumb. On the palate it is big, rich
and very tannic. Seems very closed down. Those tannins
dominate the finish, typical of 1986. 16.5+?/20 (April 2001)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1985: A deep red hue with
a touch of tawny. Absolutely classic on the nose – intense mineral
fruit, with some notes of caramel. It still has plenty of fruit, lovely
tannins and pepper-like acidity. Elegant, medium bodied, and delicious.
Classically styled and structured. A touch more impressive than my last tasting
about eighteen months ago. From a
Bordeaux 1985 blind
horizontal tasting. 18.5/20 (September 2002)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1985: A similar colour here. Complex,
more curranty blackcurrant fruit this time. Again some
new oak. Soft but well structured on the palate. Firm but
integrating tannins, smoky and curranty fruit. Rich wine,
with a spicy, curranty, roasted herb, cigar-smoke finish. Good
complexity. 17/20 (April 2001)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1981: On the nose we have
some fruit with a lick of graphite, but this is spoiled
by a dirty, vegetal note which becomes more obvious and
woody with time. A corked wine. Nevertheless, fairly lush
on the palate, spicy and peppery, but marred by the musty
notes of TCA. Underneath there is good structure. The
finish is dirty and harsh. What a crying shame, this
would have been a wonderful wine. From a
Bordeaux 1981 blind
horizontal tasting. Not rated. (September 2001)
Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1961: Chateau bottled. A lovely,
mature, claretty appearance. The nose has a vibrancy, a meaty-minerally
character, deep and stylish, clearly very good quality. Rounded, complete,
stylish, with plenty of substance and texture. A slowly fading finish. This is
very good indeed and is certainly a challenger for top wine of this flight which
focuses on St Julien. 17.5/20 (June 2007)
Chateau Léoville-Barton
(St Julien) 1961: A second bottle, also chateau bottled. Shipped by
Avery's. An opportunity to test the maxim that at this age there are only great
bottles, not great wines. Unfortunately, this one was corked. Both of
these notes are from a 1961
Bordeaux tasting. Not scored.
(June 2007)
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