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Chateau Larmande
The history of Chateau Larmande begins as long ago as the 16th Century;
records indicate that wine was produced here in 1585, and subject to inspections
by local officials. It seems likely that the construction of the modest chateau
at Larmande began the following century, as a foundation stone in the cellar
bearing the date 1640 would suggest that this was when the property was built.
During the centuries that followed the estate changed hands a number of times,
initially under the direction of the Champagne family, subsequently passing to
the Pion de Case and St Genis families in turn. The latter proprietors suffered
the common fate of inheritance difficulties consequent upon the Napoleonic laws,
and at the opening of the 20th Century they sold out, the new owners being a
partnership of the Meneret and Capdemourlin families. By happy circumstance
Fernand Meneret married Alice Capdemourlin, so this relationship became one
based on more than just business. Jean and Alice inherited the estate around the
time of World War II, and they and their descendants ran the estate for another four
decades, increasing the area under vine to 22.5 hectares. In 1990, however, it
was sold by Jean Meneret, founder of the Association des Grands Crus Classés de St
Emilion, to La Mondiale, an insurance group. The capital and investment required
to purchase and successfully run a Bordeaux property of any repute, such as
Larmande, is indicated by the number now owned by banks, financial institutions
and other companies rather than families, and in this respect Larmande is no
different to many other leading Bordeaux properties. As a consequence in poured the necessary funds for repair and restoration of the
cellars, as well as the construction of a huge, new tasting room. The estate was
already of a good size but under La Mondiale's direction more land was purchased, increasing the
total area under vine slightly, to a total of 25 hectares.
The vineyards of Larmande lie a little over one kilometre to the north of the
town of St Emilion itself, and are planted on a variety of terroirs,
principally (accounting for 70% of the vines) on ancient sandy soils as is
typical of much of the right bank, but with some more desirable but admittedly
smaller zones of clay with flint (15% of the total) and clay with limestone
(again, 15% of the total). The vines which are pruned in a double Guyot fashion
have an average age of 30 years, and are predominantly Merlot, which covers 60%
of the vineyard, with 30% Cabernet Franc and just 5% Cabernet Sauvignon making
up the balance. Vineyard practices are sound, with ploughing to reduce weeds
rather than using herbicides, and manual leaf-thinning and bunch-thinning during
the season. The eventual harvest is also manual, employing about forty vineyard
workers to complete the task, and the grapes go into small baskets to minimise
damage before transport to the winery, where they are first sorted by hand. The
fruit is then transferred in by conveyor belt to the destemming machine, before
going over a second perforated, vibrating sorting table which eliminates small
berries. Fermentation is temperature-controlled in stainless steel, in sixteen
vats of varying sizes ranging from 74 to 136 hectolitres, and thus small aliquots of
wine may be vinified separately according to plot of origin. The wine is
macerated on the skins for between two and four weeks, and malolactic occurs
both in vat and in oak barrel where the wine is aged for up to 18 months before
release. The barrels are 60% new each vintage, the remainder being one year old.
The resulting grand vin is Chateau Larmande, of which 9000 cases
are typically produced each year. The second wine is Le Cadet de Larmande,
although this appears to come from a specific 2.5 hectare plot obviously deemed
to be of lesser quality, and is raised in two and three year old barrels. The
process is overseen by oenologist Claire Thomas-Chenard, who may also be found
presenting the wines of Larmande at tastings, and she may take advice from
Michel Rolland who consults here.
The wines themselves are of very good quality, and the estate has in the past been regarded by some as the best of the Grand Cru Classé estates, this being the level at which the property has long been ranked in the St Emilion classification. This was the opinion of Clive Coates, who has also claimed that Larmande has been "...freely acknowledged, even by most of its rivals in the Saint-Emilion area, to be the best..." at this level. Certainly today there are other contenders for this crown, and the 2006 reclassification (although subsequently declared invalid in a French court following a legal challenge by several proprietors) saw two other properties, namely Troplong-Mondot and Pavie-Macquin elevated to the level of Premier Grand Cru Classé ahead of Larmande. And today, others may well choose Canon-la-Gaffelière, Monbousquet or others as their choice from the Grands Crus Classés. Nevertheless, the wines of Larmande are often of good quality, often good value too, and I have a number of vintages in the cellar which I am looking forward to opening. (11/3/04, updated 7/10/07)
Contact details:
Address: Chateau Larmande, 33330 St-Emilion
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 24 71 41
Fax +33 (0) 5 57 74 42 80
Internet:
www.chateau-larmande.com
Chateau Larmande - Tasting Notes
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Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 2007:
A darker, more plummy style of fruit than many of the
other wines on show today, but it has an appealing freshness too. This is
matched by plenty of attractive acidity on the palate, matched with a full and
gently creamy texture and a good bite of tannins. It is all nicely mixed
together and is even a little flashy. A nice wine. From my
2007 Bordeaux
en primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (April 2008)
Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 2005: A very fine nose here, showing some lovely, pure
plummy fruit, laced with a cherry-cranberry freshness. It has a moderate
texture, and an appealing, moderately firm grip of tannin in the midpalate.
There is a slightly bitter edge to the peppery fruit, with good acidity and a
big layer of tannins beneath. I think it has the fruit and acidity necessary to
cope with these, and I think this has very good potential. From my tasting of
2005 Bordeaux at two
years of age. 17-17.5+/20
(October 2007)
Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 2004: Sweet, buttery, characterful blackberry fruit.
Creamy entry, full of summer fruits and a little plum. Svelte tannins beneath.
Rather a persistent, silky presence on the palate, with fresh acidity. This is
very good indeed, with great potential. From my
2004 Bordeaux
assessment. 17.5+/20
(October 2006)
Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 2002: A light and crisp combination of cherry
and cranberry fruit here, reflecting the vintage I think. It has a nice presence
on the palate, which is quite rounded and soft in style, with charcoaly tannins
behind. It has nice acidity too, a hard charcoaly finish but decent length. It
is rather a mixture of poorly knitted together components at the moment but this
surely has some potential. 15+/20
(November 2007)
Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 2001: Another exotic
but seemingly more delicate nose. This is the case on the palate, which is not
particularly rich but has a lovely black fruit character, elegance and balance.
There's plenty of tannin beneath it all. Also needs 7-8 years I think.
16.5+/20
(November 2003)
Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 2000: A good depth of fruit here. It still
shows the faintest hint of nutty oak too, and overall the nose has a rather warm
and open style. The palate follows in the same vein, showing a soft, warm, ripe
layer of fruit with a touch of sweetness. There is a slightly chewy character to
the tannins on the midpalate, but there is also nice acidity. Still a lot of
ripe structure here, although it is well hidden. This should be left alone for
many years yet. 17+/20
(November 2007)
Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 2000: This much more
open and exotic on the nose than the 1999, with notes of Asian spices alongside
the fruit. A rich and creamy palate, but with a good amount of firm, ripe
tannins. Correct acidity. Very elegant, but with power. Lovely exotic flavour
profile especially on the finish. Needs 7-8 years before approaching this one I
think. 17+/20
(November 2003)
Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 1999: Somewhat closed on the nose, but
there are notes of dark, exotic fruits. A lovely mouthfeel, rich but with an
elegant, balanced acidity. There are, however, slightly dirty, woody
notes in the background I find troublesome. Not cork taint. It suggests poor
hygiene - dirty barrels for instance. I shall come to no conclusion today and would
relish the chance to try again. Not rated. (November 2003)
Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 1983: Some density of hue here. Glorious
mature colour. Sweet, ripe, warm, pepper-liquorice fruit with a floral and
medicinal edge. Quite stylish. Soft, rounded palate, delicate, a little lacking
in the midpalate. Tannins have all gone, but the wine is following too. Drying
out. Drink up. From a Bordeaux
1983 tasting. 14/20
(February 2005)
Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 1982: Another
over-achieving property, Chateau Larmande regularly and reliably turns out
desirable wines. This one also has a deep and mature
colour. The nose is slightly sweaty, but with some sweet fruit, and obvious
maturity and complexity. It's a touch vegetal, with some blackcurrant leaf, but
also (somewhat surprisingly) it has notes of limes, lemons and other citrus fruits. The palate is not intense,
but shows good structure, with medium body, a full and creamy texture, and
nicely integrated tannins. This wine is delicious, and ready for current
drinking. From a 1982 Bordeaux
tasting. 17/20
(June 2003)
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