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Chateau Larmande

The history of Chateau Larmande begins as long ago as the 16th century; records indicate that wine was produced here in 1585, and subject to inspections by local officials. It seems likely that the construction of the modest chateau at Larmande began the following century, as a foundation stone in the cellar bearing the date 1640 would suggest that this was when the property was built. During the centuries that followed the estate changed hands a number of times, initially under the direction of the Champagne family, subsequently passing to the Pion de Case and St Genis families in turn. The latter proprietors suffered the common fate of inheritance difficulties consequent upon the Napoleonic laws, and at the opening of the 20th century they sold out, the new owners being a partnership of the Meneret and Capdemourlin families. By happy circumstance Fernand Meneret married Alice Capdemourlin, so this relationship became one based on more than just business. Jean and Alice inherited the estate around the time of World War II, and they and their descendants ran the estate for another four decades, increasing the area under vine to 22.5 hectares. In 1990, however, it was sold by Jean Meneret, founder of the Association des Grands Crus Classés de St Emilion, to La Mondiale, an insurance group. The capital and investment required to purchase and successfully run a Bordeaux property of any repute, such as Larmande, is indicated by the number now owned by banks, financial institutions and other companies rather than families, and in this respect Larmande is no different to many other leading Bordeaux properties. As a consequence in poured the necessary funds for repair and restoration of the cellars, as well as the construction of a huge, new tasting room. The estate was already of a good size but under La Mondiale's direction more land was purchased, increasing the total area under vine slightly, to a total of 25 hectares.

The vineyards of Larmande lie a little over one kilometre to the north of the town of St Emilion itself, and are planted on a variety of terroirs, principally (accounting for 70% of the vines) on ancient sandy soils as is typical of much of the right bank, but with some more desirable but admittedly smaller zones of clay with flint (15% of the total) and clay with limestone (again, 15% of the total). The vines which are pruned in a double Guyot fashion have an average age of 30 years, and are predominantly Merlot, which covers 60% of the vineyard, with 30% Cabernet Franc and just 5% Cabernet Sauvignon making up the balance. Vineyard practices are sound, with ploughing to reduce weeds rather than using herbicides, and manual leaf-thinning and bunch-thinning during the season. The eventual harvest is also manual, employing about forty vineyard workers to complete the task, and the grapes go into small baskets to minimise damage before transport to the winery, where they are first sorted by hand. The fruit is then transferred in by conveyor belt to the destemming machine, before going over a second perforated, vibrating sorting table which eliminates small berries. Fermentation is temperature-controlled in stainless steel, in sixteen vats of varying sizes ranging from 74 to 136 hectolitres, and thus small aliquots of wine may be vinified separately according to plot of origin. The wine is macerated on the skins for between two and four weeks, and malolactic occurs both in vat and in oak barrel where the wine is aged for up to 18 months before release. The barrels are 60% new each vintage, the remainder being one year old. The resulting grand vin is Chateau Larmande, of which 9000 cases are typically produced each year. The second wine is Le Cadet de Larmande, although this appears to come from a specific 2.5 hectare plot obviously deemed to be of lesser quality, and is raised in two and three year old barrels. The process is overseen by oenologist Claire Thomas-Chenard, who may also be found presenting the wines of Larmande at tastings, and she may take advice from Michel Rolland who consults here.

The wines themselves are of very good quality, and the estate has in the past been regarded by some as the best of the Grand Cru Classé estates, this being the level at which the property has long been ranked in the St Emilion classification. This was the opinion of Clive Coates, who has also claimed that Larmande has been "...freely acknowledged, even by most of its rivals in the Saint-Emilion area, to be the best..." at this level. Certainly today there are other contenders for this crown, and the 2006 reclassification (although subsequently declared invalid in a French court following a legal challenge by several proprietors) saw two other properties, namely Troplong-Mondot and Pavie-Macquin elevated to the level of Premier Grand Cru Classé ahead of Larmande. And today, others may well choose Canon-la-Gaffelière, Monbousquet or others as their choice from the Grands Crus Classés. Nevertheless, the wines of Larmande are often of good quality, often good value too, and I have a number of vintages in the cellar which I am looking forward to opening. (11/3/04, updated 7/10/07)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Larmande, 33330 St-Emilion
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 24 71 41
Fax +33 (0) 5 57 74 42 80
Internet: www.chateau-larmande.com

Chateau Larmande - Tasting Notes

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Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 2009: A nose of sweet fruit here, notes of red cherry jam, with a rather warm and plump style. The same sweetness comes through on the palate, with sweetly grained fruit, notes of damson and peppery tannin. Good spice too. This has an attractive vigour and life. A good effort in this vintage. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 16.5-17.5+/20 (March 2010)

Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 2008: Dark and slightly charcoal-tinged, and on the palate a very cool, polished style of fruit, although it shows a little less sweetness than some. It has a good elegant substance, quite juicy, with a moderate texture. Red fruits at the edge, perhaps a rather leaner style, but certainly attractive. Lots of grip at the finish. A good effort. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (April 2009)

Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 2007: Rather hot and honeyed fruit on the nose here, with a soft, dark fruit profile. Fresher on the palate than I anticipated, although there is certainly a subdued quality to the fruit. There is substance, some tannin too, and a moderate texture. The tannins have a ripe feel to them. This has some pleasing qualities and it could be good with time. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15+/20 (October 2009)

Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 2007: A darker, more plummy style of fruit than many of the other wines on show today, but it has an appealing freshness too. This is matched by plenty of attractive acidity on the palate, matched with a full and gently creamy texture and a good bite of tannins. It is all nicely mixed together and is even a little flashy. A nice wine. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 2006: Delicious nutty oak here, with smoky nuances, and plenty of deep, fruitcakey, plummy fruit. Nice flesh on the palate, supple and well composed, with a gentle texture and a slightly nutty finish. Ripe tannins, nicely put together, not overworked. Good. From a tasting of 2006 St Emilion & Pomerol. 16+/20 (October 2008)

Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 2005: A very fine nose here, showing some lovely, pure plummy fruit, laced with a cherry-cranberry freshness. It has a moderate texture, and an appealing, moderately firm grip of tannin in the midpalate. There is a slightly bitter edge to the peppery fruit, with good acidity and a big layer of tannins beneath. I think it has the fruit and acidity necessary to cope with these, and I think this has very good potential. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 17-17.5+/20 (October 2007)

Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 2004: Slightly high-toned fruit here, with a slightly spirity, mint-tinged character to the nose. It has a very good start on the palate, with a harmonious nature and nicely judged texture. There are notes of spice and exotic flavours, rested on an elegantly presented rather than fleshy texture. It has good grip underneath, rich fruit and a fresh character. Overall this is really very good indeed. From a 2004 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 17+/20 (November 2008)

Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 2004: Sweet, buttery, characterful blackberry fruit. Creamy entry, full of summer fruits and a little plum. Svelte tannins beneath. Rather a persistent, silky presence on the palate, with fresh acidity. This is very good indeed, with great potential. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 17.5+/20 (October 2006)

Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 2002: A light and crisp combination of cherry and cranberry fruit here, reflecting the vintage I think. It has a nice presence on the palate, which is quite rounded and soft in style, with charcoaly tannins behind. It has nice acidity too, a hard charcoaly finish but decent length. It is rather a mixture of poorly knitted together components at the moment but this surely has some potential. 15+/20 (November 2007)

Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 2001: Another exotic but seemingly more delicate nose. This is the case on the palate, which is not particularly rich but has a lovely black fruit character, elegance and balance. There's plenty of tannin beneath it all. Also needs 7-8 years I think. 16.5+/20 (November 2003)

Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 2000: A good depth of fruit here. It still shows the faintest hint of nutty oak too, and overall the nose has a rather warm and open style. The palate follows in the same vein, showing a soft, warm, ripe layer of fruit with a touch of sweetness. There is a slightly chewy character to the tannins on the midpalate, but there is also nice acidity. Still a lot of ripe structure here, although it is well hidden. This should be left alone for many years yet. 17+/20 (November 2007)

Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 2000: This much more open and exotic on the nose than the 1999, with notes of Asian spices alongside the fruit. A rich and creamy palate, but with a good amount of firm, ripe tannins. Correct acidity. Very elegant, but with power. Lovely exotic flavour profile especially on the finish. Needs 7-8 years before approaching this one I think. 17+/20 (November 2003)

Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 1999: Somewhat closed on the nose, but there are notes of dark, exotic fruits. A lovely mouthfeel, rich but with an elegant, balanced acidity. There are, however, slightly dirty, woody notes in the background I find troublesome. Not cork taint. It suggests poor hygiene - dirty barrels for instance. I shall come to no conclusion today and would relish the chance to try again. Not rated. (November 2003)

Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 1983: Some density of hue here. Glorious mature colour. Sweet, ripe, warm, pepper-liquorice fruit with a floral and medicinal edge. Quite stylish. Soft, rounded palate, delicate, a little lacking in the midpalate. Tannins have all gone, but the wine is following too. Drying out. Drink up. From a Bordeaux 1983 tasting. 14/20 (February 2005)

Chateau Larmande (St Emilion) 1982: Another over-achieving property, Chateau Larmande regularly and reliably turns out desirable wines. This one also has a deep and mature colour. The nose is slightly sweaty, but with some sweet fruit, and obvious maturity and complexity. It's a touch vegetal, with some blackcurrant leaf, but also (somewhat surprisingly) it has notes of limes, lemons and other citrus fruits. The palate is not intense, but shows good structure, with medium body, a full and creamy texture, and nicely integrated tannins. This wine is delicious, and ready for current drinking. From a 1982 Bordeaux tasting. 17/20 (June 2003)