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Chateau Langoa-Barton

There are two Bartons in Bordeaux, Léoville and Langoa, and it is quite right to suppose that the two are related. Both are owned by the Barton family, and have been for nearly two centuries, the longest period of single-family ownership of any Bordeaux chateaux. In fact it is Langoa rather than Léoville to which this accolade should be accorded, the former having been purchased by Hugh Barton in 1821, five years before he also took on his portion of the dissolved Léoville estate.

The Barton family arrived in Bordeaux in the shape of Thomas Barton, who settled here and entered the wine trade, having left his native Ireland, as I have already described in my Léoville-Barton profile. Although Thomas purchased Chateau Le Boscq in St Estèphe it was his grandson, Hugh Barton, that purchased the two Barton properties proper. He started with Pontet-Langlois, acquired from Pierre-Bernard de Pontet (of Pontet-Canet); this is the estate we know today as Langoa-Barton. It is perhaps an oversimplification to think of Langoa as a mere corruption of Langlois, although it is a plausible explanation for the derivation of the name; alternatively goa may be derived from gué, a local name for the stream that runs alongside the property. Whatever the origins, however, the name wasn't the only thing that changed; Hugh set about expanding the vineyard, purchasing small plots of nearby vines in order to consolidate his position. This is how he came to be the owner of a portion of the Léoville estate, which remained separate from Langoa and does so to this day as Léoville-Barton.

Ronald Barton of Chateau Langoa and Leoville-BartonIt was Bertram Hugh Barton that was running the business at the opening of the 20th Century, Langoa-Barton now classified as a troisième cru in the 1855 classification. In 1927 Bertram was killed in a hunting accident in Ireland, forcing his son, Ronald (pictured right), who had joined the family firm only three years before, to take on the role of proprietor. Ronald took up residence in Bordeaux, although there was a brief hiatus in his tenure, as he fled the country during World War II. The Barton properties remained largely intact, however, thanks to Ireland's neutrality and the efforts of the Guestier family in protecting the estate from the occupying forces during his absence. Upon his return there was much work to be done to restore the estates to their former condition, and there was extensive planting of new vines. There was not, however, modernisation in the cellar; Ronald was a traditionalist, and unlike many of his neighbours he eschewed new developments in winemaking. Despite this, the wines made during his tenure were very well received, although in retrospect it may be that quality was not as high as it might have been. One very significant shift that did come about under Ronald's tenure, however, was a move to chateau-bottling in 1969, although this was a step most other Bordeaux proprietors had undertaken long before. Prior to this point the wines had been bottled in the Barton & Guestier cellars in Bordeaux

Ronald Barton died without an heir in 1986, having married only in his eighth decade, but by this time his nephew, Anthony, the current proprietor, had taken control. Anthony had already moved from Ireland - where the family maintain a considerable estate at Straffan House - to Bordeaux in 1951. He had a clear interest in wine, and had been waiting in the wings for decades. Ronald ceded control of the two estates to him in 1983, just a few years before his death, and Anthony was already about the business of raising the quality of the wines. He now resides at the chateau on the Langoa estate, their being no such property associated with the Léoville-Barton vineyards. This building dates from 1758, and is largely original, comprising a single storey above ground, save for some second-floor bedrooms at either end, with some extensive cellars beneath. There is also a chai and cuvier, constructed in the 1820s probably at the request of Hugh Barton, where the wines of both Langoa and Léoville-Barton are made. The Langoa vineyards account for about 25 hectares, south of the Barton and Poyferré sections of the Léoville estate, lying between the villages of Beychevelle and St Julien. The terroir is typical of the Médoc, predominately gravelly soils over a deeper clay, planted with 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, the remainder Merlot (20%) and a little Cabernet Franc (6%). In the cellar the wine is mechanically destemmed and has a two week maceration before up to twenty months in oak, of which 50% is replaced each vintage. The wines are fined and filtered prior to bottling. The output (for Langoa only - the wines of Léoville-Barton are managed quite independently) is about 8000 cases, the grand vin being Chateau Langoa-Barton, the second wine Lady Langoa.

It is inevitable that the wines of Langoa and Léoville-Barton should be subject to comparison. They are essentially two distinct estates, but run by the same team using the same cellar, and so it is only natural to compare. It is generally regarded that Léoville is the greater of the two, the vin de garde, the "super-second", and in recent vintages the prices, so long held back by Anthony Barton, have climbed a little closer to what might be expected of a wine of such status. Langoa-Barton has always been more affordable, and has frequently been excellent. I clearly recall the 1985 which really stood out, alongside the superlative Rauzan-Ségla, when tasted blind in a Bordeaux 1985 horizontal. Since then I have always had considerable respect for Langoa, and paid no heed to those that ignore the wine in favour of the Léoville. It is important to stress that Langoa is not a second wine; any difference between them is down to terroir, and in some vintages the quality of the two wines is very close, although the style may differ, Langoa often showing a more feminine and approachable face. I have on occasion, 1985 being again the prime example, preferred the Langoa to the Léoville. In more recent vintages, this thread of absolute quality has not been lost; the 2005 is in my opinion the greatest Langoa-Barton produced, within my lifetime at least (I accept there are some vintages I have not tasted though). But it is supreme; if not a "wine of the vintage", then certainly it is in the leading pack. It is unfortunate for us that drink these wines that today, en primeur prices can so absolutely reflect this quality. Some other vintages tasted recently, such as the 1999, the 2004, have been difficult to accurately assess, and I look forward to future opportunities to revisit these wines. (28/4/04, updated 19/9/06)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Langoa-Barton, 33250 St-Julien-Beychevelle
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 59 06 05
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 69 14 29
Internet: www.leoville-barton.com

Chateau Langoa-Barton - Tasting Notes

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2007

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 2007: A lifted and aromatic style, showing attractive peppery redcurrants. A nice palate, rather stony, rather reserved, a vin de garde perhaps. Rather classic, with light redcurrant fruit matching the nose. Leafy, and in fact just a trace of green. Underneath, the firm grip of the vintage. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 14.5-15.5+/20 (April 2008)

2006

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 2006: A very open and evocative nose here, and the palate turns out to be in a similar vein, quite rounded, plump, with good flavour. Rather a chalky edge to it, but a nice texture too, and fresh acidity. Not quite sufficient vigour to really excite me, but a good wine. It pales into insignificance when you recall the immense success of 2005. From my 2006 Bordeaux assessment. 15.5-16.5/20 (April 2007)

2005

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 2005: This is immediately compelling. Here we have very decisive aromatics, in a very pure and complex style, with a great depth of very dark, complex fruit. And on the palate the wine shows itself to be similarly impressive; it is pure and creamy, with a wealth of svelte, ripe tannins which provide lovely substance and grip through to the finish, but which sit very well with the fresh acids and elegant texture. Lifted, defined and with excellent fruit complexity this is, as I have said before, the greatest Langoa I have ever had the good fortune to taste. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 18.5-19+/20 (October 2007)

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 2005: A deeply coloured wine, although with a bright crimson hue when it catches the light, and a vibrant pink rim. The nose is very expressive, with some vibrant fruit immediately apparent. Sweet fruit on the palate, carrying a lovely structure of ripe tannins, supple and attractive, but not too creamy or overblown. This is quite fine, a wine exhibiting real class and super St Julien style today. Certainly trumps its Léoville sibling on the day. Super potential here, easily superior to the 1985, my favourite vintage of Langoa (until now I think). From my 2005 Bordeaux en primeur tasting. 18-19/20 (April 2006)

2004

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 2004: A red-purple hue in the glass. A strangely unappealing nose, seeming a touch chemical and confected, perhaps a little estery? The palate has a nice attack and presence, and is quite pleasantly structured, if perhaps a little lean in terms of texture. And there is rather a short finish. Not showing well today at all. Again, I'm reluctant to pass definitive judgement here. 14-16?/20 (April 2006)

2003

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 2003: A lovely, almost exotic dark fruit nose. Quite captivating although hardly typical blueberry and blackberry aromas. Succulent palate, good ripe fruit, with a firm core of tannins. Good acidity. A little violet edge to the flavour. This is good claret - well done. From my 2003 Bordeaux assessment. 16+/20 (October 2005)

2000

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 2000: Dense, youthful, impressive colour - as with so many of the 2000s. Toasty oak, blackcurrant oil, fruit gum sweetness. On the palate, elegance and balance are in place, despite the wealth of fruit, tannin and acidity. Concentrated. Brilliant. One for the cellar; may well need something approaching two decades to show its best. 17+/20 (October 2004)

1999

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1999: A deep and smoky feel here, with a meaty, iron-clad, claretty style. Very traditional and pleasing. Attractive, bright and fresh on the nose and the palate, but showing some pleasing flesh too. A little plumpness, with bright red fruit, and a good tannic backbone. Precise, fresh acidity, and a nicely integrated feel overall. This will make very good drinking, and very good in the context of the vintage. Last time I sampled this the bottle was riddled with a Bretty farmyardy character, not so here. A very good experience this time. From a Bordeaux tasting with Bibendum. 16.5+/20 (April 2007)

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1999: Showing a fairly mature colour. The nose is a melange of maturing fruit with farmyardy character and what seems like a large dose of Brettanomyces. Nice midweight texture on the palate, but with more dirty farmyard character alongside the sweet, blackcurrant pastille fruit. Rather prominent, disjointed acidity too. Not to my taste at all, and probably down to rampant Brett in the case of this bottle. I'm reluctant to pass definitive judgement here. 13-15?/20 (April 2006)

1998

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1998: A glorious, glossy, very pure colour. Piles of fruit on the nose, with exotic notes and some oak still. Pure, glossy mouthfeel, plenty of fruit and good tannin. Good concentration. Very good balance. Perfectly decent wine for the vintage; lovely in fact. Needs ten years. 16+/20 (October 2004)

1996

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1996: Very dark, dense and glossy. Black fruit and violets on the nose. A massive palate; piles of structure, but with plenty of fruit an texture. It has balance and a fresh, elegant fluidity. Quite a classic style, typical of the vintage. Oak has yet to fully integrate. Again, should make a superb wine. Needs five to eight years. 16.5+/20 (October 2004)

1995

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1995: Beautiful nose here. A great combination of mineral blackcurrant fruit, smoke and meat. Still some oak evident here. Quite elegant on the palate; structured but quite fluid, with plenty of tannin in the background. Nose seems very approachable but it needs five years at least. With time it will be absolutely lovely though. 16+/20 (October 2004)

1990

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1990: A very deep, dark, red-mahogany. A classic and evolved nose full of secondary aromas; meat and Bovril, leather armchairs, black bean and cough sweets. Lovely! Similar character on the palate, with a treacle edge and good concentration. Firm, although the tannins are well integrated and acidity nicely balanced. Lovely, mature, fluid character. Beautiful texture. Complex and very interesting. This is lovely. Surprisingly evolved for the 1990 vintage. 18/20 (October 2004)

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1990: A better colour. Rich, purple wine. A perfumed, stony nose, to me suggestive of St-Julien. Coffee and toffee notes. Rich blackcurrant fruit palate, well balanced, with nice smoky notes. From a 1990 vintage ten year on blind tasting. 18/20 (December 2000)

1989

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1989: Deep, glossy, quite homogenous colour. Just a little pale at the rim. Maturing nose; a little vegetal and complex, but still showing liquorice-edged super-ripe fruit. A sweet, concentrated wine with very correct structure and fruit concentration. Rich and impressive, although moderate length at most. Showing so much better than the last bottle I tasted - which was corked. 17+/20 (October 2004)

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1989: This wine is a touch inky on the nose, and has a streak of TCA contamination. This becomes more apparent on the palate, which although firm and promising on entry, displays a characteristic bitterness through the midpalate. Musty edge to what fruit is there. I'm the only taster that seems concerned about this wine, so I leave it for a while and return later. My impression is unchanged. Clear potential, but marred by cork taint. From a Bordeaux 1989 blind horizontal tasting. Not rated. (January 2002)

1988

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1988: Dense and mature hue, fading to a pink-orange rim. Meaty, expressive nose, a little floral. Very concentrated and still piles of tannin on the palate. Firm, structured, with a creaminess on the endpalate. Bright, vivacious acidity. Beautiful length. Four years on from my last tasting and this wine still has so much potential; needs five to ten years before it approaches its peak. 17+/20 (October 2004)

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1988: A richly coloured wine. Violets and black fruit on the nose. The palate is a full-on attack of fruit, with smoky elements and well integrated oak. Good tannins and acidity. A little short on length. From a Bordeaux 1988 blind horizontal tasting. 17.5/20 (May 2000)

1985

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1985: A deep, glossy, very mature colour. Just a couple of years on from my last tasting and there is some development here. Meaty menthol and a little iron filing note, but still with sweet blackcurrant fruit-gum aromas. Big, sweet, all-pervading on the palate. Concentrated, ripe, still loaded with primary fruit flavours. Thick, almost viscous texture overlaying some significant tannins still. Moderate length. Tasted blind didn't strike me as anything like the 1985 vintage; where's the pure elegance they usually show? Nevertheless, very good indeed. 17.5+/20 (October 2004)

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1985: This wine also has a youthful appearance, vibrant red, with just a tawny rim demonstrating its advancing age. The nose is open and suggests gorgeous, lush, sweet fruit. The palate doesn’t disappoint, although it has a classic St Julien mineral and stone character. Medium bordering on full bodied, quite classic in style although quite rich, with acidity on the soft side. Integrated tannins. Lovely. From a Bordeaux 1985 blind horizontal tasting. 18.5+/20 (September 2002)

1975

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1975: A dark wine, cut through with a tawny hue, but richly coloured. Fading a little around the rim. Fairly classic on the nose, with a seam of restrained fruit, which is impressive for a wine of this age. The palate has a quite full and rounded texture, and is perhaps a touch tight. Some tarry, woody fruit, with spice towards the finish. Still a little tannin, and correct acidity. From a Bordeaux 1975 blind horizontal tasting. 16/20 (August 2002)

1970

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1970: A dense colour. It has a sweet, fruit-gum nose along with notes of meaty stock and some gamy, vegetal aromas. A wonderful palate follows. It is sweet, rich and silky, and perfectly integrated. Balance and elegance in abundance. A slowly ebbing finish and good length. What a fabulous display from this wine, at 34 years of age. 18.5/20 (April 2004)

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