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Chateau Langoa-Barton
There are two Bartons in Bordeaux, Léoville and Langoa, and it is quite right to suppose that the two are related. Both are owned by the Barton family, and have been for nearly two centuries, the longest period of single-family ownership of any Bordeaux chateaux. In fact it is Langoa rather than Léoville to which this accolade should be accorded, the former having been purchased by Hugh Barton in 1821, five years before he also took on his portion of the dissolved Léoville estate.
The Barton family arrived in Bordeaux in the shape of Thomas Barton, who settled here and entered the wine trade, having left his native Ireland, as I have already described in my Léoville-Barton profile. Although Thomas purchased Chateau Le Boscq in St Estèphe it was his grandson, Hugh Barton, that purchased the two Barton properties proper. He started with Pontet-Langlois, acquired from Pierre-Bernard de Pontet (of Pontet-Canet); this is the estate we know today as Langoa-Barton. It is perhaps an oversimplification to think of Langoa as a mere corruption of Langlois, although it is a plausible explanation for the derivation of the name; alternatively goa may be derived from gué, a local name for the stream that runs alongside the property. Whatever the origins, however, the name wasn't the only thing that changed; Hugh set about expanding the vineyard, purchasing small plots of nearby vines in order to consolidate his position. This is how he came to be the owner of a portion of the Léoville estate, which remained separate from Langoa and does so to this day as Léoville-Barton.
It was Bertram Hugh Barton that was running the business at the opening of
the 20th Century, Langoa-Barton now classified as a troisième cru in the
1855
classification. In 1927 Bertram was killed in a hunting accident in Ireland,
forcing his son, Ronald (pictured right), who had joined the family firm only three years before,
to take on the role of proprietor. Ronald took up residence in Bordeaux,
although there was a brief hiatus in his tenure, as he fled the country during
World War II. The Barton properties remained largely intact, however, thanks to
Ireland's neutrality and the efforts of the Guestier family in protecting the
estate from the occupying forces during his absence. Upon his return there was
much work to be done to restore the estates to their former condition, and there
was extensive planting of new vines. There was not, however, modernisation in
the cellar; Ronald was a traditionalist, and unlike many of his neighbours he
eschewed new developments in winemaking. Despite this, the wines made during his tenure were
very well received, although in retrospect it may be that quality was not as
high as it might have been. One very significant shift that did come about under
Ronald's tenure, however, was a move to chateau-bottling in 1969, although this
was a step most
other Bordeaux proprietors had undertaken long before. Prior to this point the wines
had been bottled in the Barton & Guestier cellars in Bordeaux
Ronald Barton died without an heir in 1986, having married only in his eighth decade, but by this time his nephew, Anthony, the current proprietor, had taken control. Anthony had already moved from Ireland - where the family maintain a considerable estate at Straffan House - to Bordeaux in 1951. He had a clear interest in wine, and had been waiting in the wings for decades. Ronald ceded control of the two estates to him in 1983, just a few years before his death, and Anthony was already about the business of raising the quality of the wines. He now resides at the chateau on the Langoa estate, their being no such property associated with the Léoville-Barton vineyards. This building dates from 1758, and is largely original, comprising a single storey above ground, save for some second-floor bedrooms at either end, with some extensive cellars beneath. There is also a chai and cuvier, constructed in the 1820s probably at the request of Hugh Barton, where the wines of both Langoa and Léoville-Barton are made. The Langoa vineyards account for about 25 hectares, south of the Barton and Poyferré sections of the Léoville estate, lying between the villages of Beychevelle and St Julien. The terroir is typical of the Médoc, predominately gravelly soils over a deeper clay, planted with 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, the remainder Merlot (20%) and a little Cabernet Franc (6%). In the cellar the wine is mechanically destemmed and has a two week maceration before up to twenty months in oak, of which 50% is replaced each vintage. The wines are fined and filtered prior to bottling. The output (for Langoa only - the wines of Léoville-Barton are managed quite independently) is about 8000 cases, the grand vin being Chateau Langoa-Barton, the second wine Lady Langoa.
It is inevitable that the wines of Langoa and Léoville-Barton should be subject to comparison. They are essentially two distinct estates, but run by the same team using the same cellar, and so it is only natural to compare. It is generally regarded that Léoville is the greater of the two, the vin de garde, the "super-second", and in recent vintages the prices, so long held back by Anthony Barton, have climbed a little closer to what might be expected of a wine of such status. Langoa-Barton has always been more affordable, and has frequently been excellent. I clearly recall the 1985 which really stood out, alongside the superlative Rauzan-Ségla, when tasted blind in a Bordeaux 1985 horizontal. Since then I have always had considerable respect for Langoa, and paid no heed to those that ignore the wine in favour of the Léoville. It is important to stress that Langoa is not a second wine; any difference between them is down to terroir, and in some vintages the quality of the two wines is very close, although the style may differ, Langoa often showing a more feminine and approachable face. I have on occasion, 1985 being again the prime example, preferred the Langoa to the Léoville. In more recent vintages, this thread of absolute quality has not been lost; the 2005 is in my opinion the greatest Langoa-Barton produced, within my lifetime at least (I accept there are some vintages I have not tasted though). But it is supreme; if not a "wine of the vintage", then certainly it is in the leading pack. It is unfortunate for us that drink these wines that today, en primeur prices can so absolutely reflect this quality. Some other vintages tasted recently, such as the 1999, the 2004, have been difficult to accurately assess, and I look forward to future opportunities to revisit these wines. (28/4/04, updated 19/9/06)
Contact details:
Address: Chateau Langoa-Barton, 33250 St-Julien-Beychevelle
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 59 06 05
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 69 14 29
Internet:
www.leoville-barton.com
Chateau Langoa-Barton - Tasting Notes
Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 2007: A lifted and aromatic style, showing attractive peppery redcurrants. A
nice palate, rather stony, rather reserved, a vin de garde perhaps.
Rather classic, with light redcurrant fruit matching the nose. Leafy, and in
fact just a trace of green. Underneath, the firm grip of the vintage.
From my
2007 Bordeaux
en primeur assessment. 14.5-15.5+/20 (April 2008)
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 2006: A very open and evocative nose here, and the
palate turns out to be in a similar vein, quite rounded, plump, with good
flavour. Rather a chalky edge to it, but a nice texture too, and fresh acidity.
Not quite sufficient vigour to really excite me, but a good wine. It pales into
insignificance when you recall the immense success of 2005. From my
2006 Bordeaux
assessment. 15.5-16.5/20 (April 2007)
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 2005: This is immediately compelling. Here we
have very decisive aromatics, in a very pure and complex style, with a great
depth of very dark, complex fruit. And on the palate the wine shows itself to be
similarly impressive; it is pure and creamy, with a wealth of svelte, ripe
tannins which provide lovely substance and grip through to the finish, but which
sit very well with the fresh acids and elegant texture. Lifted, defined and with
excellent fruit complexity this is, as I have said before, the greatest Langoa I
have ever had the good fortune to taste. From my tasting of
2005 Bordeaux at two
years of age. 18.5-19+/20 (October 2007)
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 2005: A deeply coloured wine, although with a
bright crimson hue when it catches the light, and a vibrant pink rim. The nose
is very expressive, with some vibrant fruit immediately apparent. Sweet fruit on
the palate, carrying a lovely structure of ripe tannins, supple and attractive,
but not too creamy or overblown. This is quite fine, a wine exhibiting real
class and super St Julien style today. Certainly trumps its
Léoville sibling on
the day. Super potential here, easily superior to the 1985, my favourite vintage
of Langoa (until now I think). From my
2005 Bordeaux en primeur
tasting. 18-19/20 (April 2006)
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 2004: A red-purple hue in the glass.
A strangely unappealing nose, seeming a touch chemical and confected, perhaps a
little estery? The palate has a nice attack and presence, and is quite
pleasantly structured, if perhaps a little lean in terms of texture. And there
is rather a short finish. Not showing well today at all. Again, I'm reluctant to
pass definitive judgement here. 14-16?/20 (April 2006)
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 2003: A lovely, almost exotic dark fruit nose.
Quite captivating although hardly typical blueberry and blackberry aromas.
Succulent palate, good ripe fruit, with a firm core of tannins. Good acidity. A
little violet edge to the flavour. This is good claret - well done. From my
2003 Bordeaux
assessment. 16+/20 (October 2005)
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 2000: Dense, youthful, impressive
colour - as with so many of the 2000s. Toasty oak, blackcurrant oil, fruit gum
sweetness. On the palate, elegance and balance are in place, despite the wealth
of fruit, tannin and acidity. Concentrated. Brilliant. One for the cellar; may
well need something approaching two decades to show its best. 17+/20 (October 2004)
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1999: A deep and smoky feel here, with a meaty,
iron-clad, claretty style. Very traditional and pleasing. Attractive, bright and
fresh on the nose and the palate, but showing some pleasing flesh too. A little
plumpness, with bright red fruit, and a good tannic backbone. Precise, fresh
acidity, and a nicely integrated feel overall. This will make very good
drinking, and very good in the context of the vintage. Last time I sampled this
the bottle was riddled with a Bretty farmyardy character, not so here. A very good
experience this time. From a
Bordeaux tasting with
Bibendum. 16.5+/20 (April 2007)
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1999: Showing a fairly mature
colour. The nose is a melange of maturing fruit with farmyardy character and
what seems like a large dose of Brettanomyces. Nice midweight texture on the
palate, but with more dirty farmyard character alongside the sweet, blackcurrant
pastille fruit. Rather prominent, disjointed acidity too. Not to my taste at
all, and probably down to rampant Brett in the case of this bottle. I'm
reluctant to pass definitive judgement here. 13-15?/20 (April 2006)
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1998: A glorious, glossy, very pure
colour. Piles of fruit on the nose, with exotic notes and some oak still. Pure,
glossy mouthfeel, plenty of fruit and good tannin. Good concentration. Very good
balance. Perfectly decent wine for the vintage; lovely in fact. Needs ten years.
16+/20 (October 2004)
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1996: Very dark, dense and glossy.
Black fruit and violets on the nose. A massive palate; piles of structure, but
with plenty of fruit an texture. It has balance and a fresh, elegant fluidity.
Quite a classic style, typical of the vintage. Oak has yet to fully integrate.
Again, should make a superb wine. Needs five to eight years. 16.5+/20 (October 2004)
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1995: Beautiful nose here. A great
combination of mineral blackcurrant fruit, smoke and meat. Still some oak
evident here. Quite elegant on the palate; structured but quite fluid, with
plenty of tannin in the background. Nose seems very approachable but it needs
five years at least. With time it will be absolutely lovely though. 16+/20 (October 2004)
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1990: A very deep, dark,
red-mahogany. A classic and evolved nose full of secondary aromas; meat and
Bovril, leather armchairs, black bean and cough sweets. Lovely! Similar
character on the palate, with a treacle edge and good concentration. Firm,
although the tannins are well integrated and acidity nicely balanced. Lovely,
mature, fluid character. Beautiful texture. Complex and very interesting. This
is lovely. Surprisingly evolved for the 1990 vintage. 18/20 (October 2004)
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien)
1990: A better colour. Rich, purple wine. A perfumed,
stony nose, to me suggestive of St-Julien. Coffee and
toffee notes. Rich blackcurrant fruit palate, well
balanced, with nice smoky notes. From a
1990 vintage ten year on
blind tasting. 18/20 (December 2000)
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1989: Deep, glossy, quite homogenous
colour. Just a little pale at the rim. Maturing nose; a little vegetal and
complex, but still showing liquorice-edged super-ripe fruit. A sweet,
concentrated wine with very correct structure and fruit concentration. Rich and
impressive, although moderate length at most. Showing so much better than the
last bottle I tasted - which was corked. 17+/20 (October 2004)
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Chateau
Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1989: This wine is a touch inky on
the nose, and has a streak of TCA contamination.
This becomes more apparent on the palate, which although
firm and promising on entry, displays a characteristic
bitterness through the midpalate. Musty edge to what
fruit is there. I'm the only taster that seems concerned
about this wine, so I leave it for a while and return
later. My impression is unchanged. Clear potential, but
marred by cork taint. From a
Bordeaux 1989 blind
horizontal tasting. Not rated.
(January 2002)
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1988: Dense and mature hue, fading
to a pink-orange rim. Meaty, expressive nose, a little floral. Very concentrated
and still piles of tannin on the palate. Firm, structured, with a creaminess on
the endpalate. Bright, vivacious acidity. Beautiful length. Four years on from
my last tasting and this wine still has so much potential; needs five to ten
years before it approaches its peak. 17+/20 (October 2004)
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1988:
A richly coloured wine. Violets and black fruit on
the nose. The palate is a full-on attack of fruit, with
smoky elements and well integrated oak. Good tannins and
acidity. A little short on length. From a
Bordeaux 1988 blind
horizontal tasting. 17.5/20 (May 2000)
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1985: A deep, glossy, very mature
colour. Just a couple of years on from my last tasting and there is some
development here. Meaty menthol and a little iron filing note, but still with
sweet blackcurrant fruit-gum aromas. Big, sweet, all-pervading on the palate.
Concentrated, ripe, still loaded with primary fruit flavours. Thick, almost
viscous texture overlaying some significant tannins still. Moderate length.
Tasted blind didn't strike me as anything like the 1985 vintage; where's the
pure elegance they usually show? Nevertheless, very good indeed. 17.5+/20 (October 2004)
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1985:
This wine also has a youthful appearance, vibrant red, with just a
tawny rim demonstrating its advancing age. The nose is open and suggests
gorgeous, lush, sweet fruit. The palate doesn’t disappoint, although it
has a classic St Julien mineral and stone character. Medium bordering on
full bodied, quite classic in style although quite rich, with acidity on
the soft side. Integrated tannins. Lovely. From a
Bordeaux 1985 blind
horizontal tasting. 18.5+/20 (September 2002)
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1975: A
dark wine, cut through with a tawny hue, but richly coloured. Fading a
little around the rim. Fairly classic on the nose, with a seam of
restrained fruit, which is impressive for a wine of this age. The palate
has a quite full and rounded texture, and is perhaps a touch tight. Some
tarry, woody fruit, with spice towards the finish. Still a little
tannin, and correct acidity. From a
Bordeaux 1975 blind
horizontal tasting. 16/20 (August 2002)
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1970: A dense colour. It has a sweet, fruit-gum nose
along with notes of meaty stock and some gamy, vegetal aromas. A wonderful
palate follows. It is sweet, rich and silky, and perfectly integrated. Balance
and elegance in abundance. A slowly ebbing finish and good length. What a
fabulous display from this wine, at 34 years of age.
18.5/20 (April 2004)
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