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Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey
Unlike much of the Médoc, where some estates struggle to trace their history further back than a couple of centuries, there seems to be no such problem for many of the estates around Sauternes. Lafaurie-Peyraguey is a prime example, the origins of the estate and its name lost in the fog of history, which in this particular case estate stretches back at least seven centuries. The construction of a fortified keep in the 13th Century is perhaps the earliest indicator of the significance of the site, although this precedes the arrival of viticulture by a very long time indeed.
Although
no doubt once a vital military post by the 18th Century the chateau was perhaps
of less value than it once had been, and it was sold to Nicolas-Pierre de
Pichard, a local parliamentarian of considerable repute who also owned
Lafite, as well as a number of grand titles. None of
these did him any favours when the Revolution took hold, however, as he met his
end at the guillotine during the Terreur. The estate, then known as
Chateau Pichard, was sold as a national asset to two gentlemen named Lafaurie
and Mauros, although the former soon bought out the latter. It was Lafaurie, who
also owned a stake in nearby Chateau d'Arche, that established a reputation for
the wine of his estate, first known as Pichard-Lafaurie, then as
Lafaurie-Peyraguey (the origin of Peyraguey is uncertain). Previously a lowly
ranked estate, within half a century or thereabouts Lafaurie-Peyraguey was one
of the top names for Sauternes, achieving third place in the 1855 classification of Sauternes and Barsac
directly behind Yquem and
La Tour Blanche. Having guided
Lafaurie from fledgling estate to classed growth status, however, Lafaurie died,
leaving his property to his widow. She married a gentleman named Saint-Rieul-Dupouy,
and they sold the estate to Comte Duchâtel in 1865, proprietor of
Chateau Lagrange, who subsequently bequeathed it to
his widow. Upon her death the estate was divided, and the major part, including
the chateau and cellars, was acquired by Messieurs Farinel and Grédy in 1879,
and this portion continued on under the name Lafaurie-Peyraguey, and is
obviously the origin of the modern estate. A smaller section of vineyard was
cleaved off, and purchased by a Monsieur Grillon, and this formed the basis for
the neighbouring Clos Haut-Peyraguey. Lafaurie-Peyraguey, meanwhile, was in the
main run by the Grédy family. Despite its seemingly illustrious reputation
during the mid-19th Century, under their direction quality at Lafaurie-Peyraguey
seemed to peter off, and the commentators of the early 20th Century did not rate
the wine highly. No doubt the usual procession of oidium and phylloxera took
their toll. Against the backdrop of war and impending recession, the estate was
sold to the Cordier family in 1917, and they have maintained ownership through
to today. Under their aegis Lafaurie-Peyraguey has seen some considerable
success, particularly in the latter decades of the 20th Century. There have been
a few changes in the make-up of Lafaurie-Peyraguey along the way, most notably the
absorption of a 4.5 hectare vineyard which was originally part of Chateau d'Arche, but cleaved off following the Revolution and subsequently coming into
the hands of the Cordiers. This was a portion of vineyard named Vimeney
originally owned by Raymond Lafon and not, as some mistakenly believe, the part
once owned by the aforementioned Monsieur Lafaurie who was once part-owner of
d'Arche (although if it had been that
would have conveniently wrapped up a few loose ends).
The vineyard and chai have seen considerable investment from Cordier in recent years. Starting with the vineyard, this accounts for about 40 hectares of Bommes, one of the five communes which comprise the Sauternes appellation. There are three main plots, the first directly behind the chateau and contiguous with Sigalas-Rabaud, the other two lying adjacent to Clos Haut-Peyraguey and Chateau Guiraud. The soils are rich in gravel, much of which originated in the Pyrenees, with limestone beneath. Like Guiraud the vineyard here once included a large proportion of Sauvignon Blanc, up to 30%, but today this has been drastically reduced and Semillon now accounts for nearly the entire vineyard, with just 2% Sauvignon. The fruit is harvested by hand in multiple tries, with yields of up to 14 hl/ha, and then pressed using a traditional vertical press. Once fermented in glass-lined vats before transfer into wood, the entire harvest is today fermented in oak with temperature control, increasingly the norm across the appellation, and certainly standard practice in the most quality-conscious estates. It then goes into oak barrel for up to thirty months, of which one third are new each vintage. As well as the grand vin, Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey, there is also a second wine called La Chapelle de Lafaurie, as well as a dry white wine, Le Brut de Lafaurie.
The 1986 vintage was a turning point for Lafaurie-Peyraguey, one that indicated the estate was clearly on the up following the installation of Yannick Laporte as regisseur in 1983, replacing Pierre Patachon. Nevertheless, some commentators enjoyed the wines of Patachon's regime, and I was interested to see that Clive Coates had respect for the 1975 vintage, describing it as a 'major success'. It was drying out somewhat when I tasted it in 2002, but was certainly a wine of quality. The 1986, however, was a turning point not just for Lafaurie-Peyraguey but also for me, a wake-up call that told me I should be doing more than just appreciating Sauternes at tasting events from time to time, but actively seeking out, purchasing and drinking them. Ever since I have done so, and they now form a significant part of my cellar. Other more recent vintages are no less wonderful, with the 2001 and 2003 both stunning, and I look forward to similar wines from Lafaurie-Peyraguey in the future. (28/8/02, updated 1/6/06, updated 27/6/07)
Contact details:
Address: Bommes, 33210 Langon
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 11 29 00 (Domaines Cordier offices)
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 11 29 01
Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey - Tasting Notes
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Chateau
Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes) 2007: This has a bright and minerally nose, with good
complexity of fruit, and some depth. An elegant richness, slowly building
through the midpalate, supple but balanced with very firm acidity. A fine,
floral finesse and good botrytis, and a moderate length. Really lovely potential
here. From my 2007 Bordeaux
en primeur assessment. 17-18+/20
Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes) 2004:
A very reticent nose here today, showing a little flowery fruit and oak. Lovely
weight on the palate, huge texture, rolling across the palate, carrying and
honey and barley sugar character. Very big and rich style, with good acidity. A
lovely Lafaurie. From my
2004 Bordeaux assessment. 17+/20 (October 2006)
Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes) 2003: Rich nose, very suggestive of fatness
to come, with great floral-edged honey and botrytis aromas. Obviously youthful.
Huge weight on the palate, which is weighty, rich and creamy. This does have a
very fat, opulent style, but with correct acidity. Wonderful presence on the
palate, but it does need some time for the complexity to develop. From my
2003 Bordeaux
assessment. 18.5/20 (October 2005)
Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey
(Sauternes) 2001: A slightly deeper, richer, orange
tinged hue when compared with some other 2001s. Lovely nose, full of oranges and
barley sugar, honey and floral herbs. The palate has simply fabulous freshness,
with fine acidity carrying along a panoply of flavours, led by sweet orange
fruit with notes of orange blossom, honey and minerals. A delicious creamy
style, backed up by a little grip and that fine acidity for structure, complete
the picture. Overall this is wonderful wine, beautifully balanced, and just
dripping with pent-up potential for the future. From a
Sauternes 2001 assessment.
19+/20 (May 2006)
Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes)
1986: A favourite of mine, last tasted only eighteen months ago. A touch richer and darker than the
preceding wines. Power on the nose, which has intense aromas of syrupy
fruit, botrytis and oak. The fruit-laden palate confirms that this is
the biggest wine of the three, although again there is correct acidity.
This is lovely now, but I think many would prefer to wait for better
integration of the sugar, oak and acidity. And there is no rush, as this
is a classic vintage which will drink for a decade and more. 18.5/20 (August 2002)
Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes) 1986: In
the glass it has a fairly intense golden hue. A nose of pineapples,
botrytis and marmalade. Very smoky, perhaps reflecting
use of oak. The palate has more tropical fruit,
hazelnuts, angelica and apples. Rich, sweet and balanced.
A delicious length. From a
Bordeaux 1986 blind
horizontal tasting. 18.5/20 (February 2001)
Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes)
1981: A very similar colour here, but more evident sweetness on the
nose, which was redolent with honey and beeswax. This comes through on
the palate, which is full and rounded. There is great acidity, though,
which achieves a very correct balance. Drinking perfectly now. 18/20 (August 2002)
Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes)
1975: A middling golden hue. A lovely nose, clean, with pineapple
fruit, and a touch of wax and resin. The sweetness is still very
apparent, although less so than the subsequent wines. What was there was
kept in check by quite racy acidity. Lemon and orange marmalade
character, particularly towards the finish. 17/20 (August 2002)
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