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Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey
Unlike much of the Médoc, where some estates struggle to trace their history further back than a couple of centuries, there seems to be no such problem for many of the estates around Sauternes. Lafaurie-Peyraguey is a prime example, the exact origins of the estate lost in the fog of history, which in this particular case estate stretches back at least seven centuries. The construction of a fortified keep in the 13th Century, using stone quarried from nearby Ciron, is perhaps the earliest indicator of the significance of the site, although this precedes the arrival of viticulture by a very long time indeed.
The earliest records that make reference to this estate were made in the early 17th Century, when the land was owned by Sieur Raymond Peyraguey, a member of the rural bourgeois set who settled in Bommes. There is no news on how Peyraguey fared with his vinous venture, however, for the next mention is more than a century later. Although no doubt once a vital military post by the 18th Century the chateau was perhaps of less value than it once had been, and it was acquired in 1742 by Baron Nicolas-Pierre de Pichard, a local parliamentarian of considerable repute who also owned Lafite and Coutet, as well as a number of grand titles. Under his direction the estate moved towards ordered viticulture, and he oversaw the construction of dedicated winemaking facilities. None of his titles, land or achievements did him any favours when the Revolution took hold, however, as he met his end at the guillotine in 1794 during the Terreur. The estate, including a 30 hectare expanse of vines by then known as Chateau Pichard-Peyraguey, was first leased to a local named Vignon, before being sold as a national asset in 1796 to two gentlemen named Lafaurie and Mauros, although the former soon bought out the latter. It was Lafaurie, who also owned a stake in nearby Chateau d'Arche, that established a reputation for the wine of his estate, first known as Pichard-Lafaurie, then as Lafaurie-Peyraguey. Previously a lowly ranked estate, within half a century or thereabouts Lafaurie-Peyraguey was one of the top names for Sauternes, a favoured tipple of King Alphonso XII of Spain, and was ranked third place in the 1855 classification of Sauternes and Barsac directly behind Yquem and La Tour Blanche.
Having guided
Lafaurie from fledgling estate to classed growth status, however, Lafaurie died,
leaving his property to his widow. She married a gentleman named Saint-Rieul-Dupouy,
and they then sold the estate to Comte Duchâtel in 1865, proprietor of
Chateau Lagrange. Duchâtel found himself in charge of a
slightly contracted estate, the area under vine having shrunk to 27 hectares. He wasted
no time, funding an extensive refurbishment, restoring the entranceway which was part of the original 13th
Century keep, and remodelling the chateau and buildings, and he is thus
responsible for much of the appearance of the estate today. Upon his death the
property passed to his granddaughter, Charlotte de Trémoille, who before long
sold off the estate. The major part, including
the chateau and cellars, was acquired at auction by the négociants Messieurs Farinel and Grédy in 1879,
and this portion continued on under the name Lafaurie-Peyraguey, and is
obviously the origin of the modern estate. A smaller section of vineyard was
cleaved off, and purchased by a Monsieur Grillon, and this formed the basis for
the neighbouring Clos Haut-Peyraguey. Lafaurie-Peyraguey, meanwhile, was in the
main run by the Grédy family. Despite its seemingly illustrious reputation
during the mid-19th Century, under their direction quality at Lafaurie-Peyraguey
seemed to peter off, and the commentators of the early 20th Century did not rate
the wine highly. No doubt the usual procession of oidium and phylloxera took
their toll. Against the backdrop of war and impending recession, the estate was
sold to Désiré Cordier in 1917, and the Cordier family maintained ownership through
to 1984. Under their aegis Lafaurie-Peyraguey has seen some considerable
success, particularly in the latter decades of the 20th Century. There have been
a few changes in the make-up of Lafaurie-Peyraguey along the way, most notably the
absorption of a 4.5 hectare vineyard which was originally part of Chateau d'Arche, but cleaved off following the Revolution and subsequently coming into
the hands of the Cordiers. This was a portion of vineyard named Vimeney
originally owned by Raymond Lafon and not, as some mistakenly believe, the part
once owned by the aforementioned Monsieur Lafaurie who was once part-owner of
d'Arche (although if it had been that would have conveniently wrapped up a few loose ends).
In 1984 the Cordier Group vineyards were acquired by the Suez Group, a French
multinational primarily with interests in energy supply. The owners, now known
as GDF Suez as a consequence of several mergers, have not been afraid to invest
in their Bordeaux property. The chateau, cellars and vineyard have all seen
significant work, new climate-controlled cellars have been installed, building
on the investments of the Cordier family. Starting with the vineyard, this accounts for about 41 hectares
of Bommes, one of the five communes which comprise the Sauternes appellation.
There are three main plots, the first directly behind the chateau and contiguous
with Sigalas-Rabaud, the other two
lying adjacent to Clos Haut-Peyraguey and Chateau Guiraud. The soils are rich in
silica and gravel, much of which originated in the Pyrenees, with limestone beneath. Like
Guiraud the vineyard here once included a large proportion of Sauvignon Blanc,
up to 30%, but today this has been drastically reduced and Semillon now accounts
for nearly the entire vineyard, with just 8% Sauvignon Blanc and 2% Muscadelle.
The vines have an average age of 40 years. The fruit is harvested
by hand in multiple tries, with an average yield of 18 hl/ha depending on
the harvest, and then pressed first using a pneumatic press, and then using four traditional vertical presses
for the second and third pressings. Once fermented in glass-lined vats
before transfer into wood, the entire harvest is today fermented in French oak
barriques, 30% new each year, with
the temperature controlled to between 17 and 23ºC. It is then aged in
barrique for between 18 and 30, with a racking every 3-5 months as guided by
tasting. As well as the grand vin, Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey (approximately 5500
cases per year) there is also a second wine called La Chapelle de Lafaurie (typically 2000 cases per year).
The 1986 vintage was a turning point for Lafaurie-Peyraguey, one that indicated the estate was clearly on the up following the installation of Yannick Laporte as régisseur in 1983, replacing Pierre Patachon, and perhaps influenced by new direction from GDF Suez. Nevertheless, some commentators enjoyed the wines of Patachon's regime, and I was interested to see that Clive Coates had respect for the 1975 vintage, describing it as a 'major success'. It was drying out somewhat when I tasted it in 2002, but was certainly a wine of quality. The 1986, however, was a turning point not just for Lafaurie-Peyraguey but also for me, a wake-up call that told me I should be doing more than just appreciating Sauternes at tasting events from time to time, but actively seeking out, purchasing and drinking them. Ever since I have done so, and they now form a significant part of my cellar. Other more recent vintages, under director and oenologist Eric Larramona are no less wonderful; both the 2001 and 2003 look stunning, and the 2007 has the same potential. Lafaurie-Peyraguey's future is bright. (28/8/02, updated 1/6/06, 27/6/07, 31/10/08)
Contact details:
Address: Bommes, 33210 Langon
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 76 60 54
Fax: +33 (0) 5 56 76 61 89
Internet: www.lafaurie-peyraguey.com
Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey - Tasting Notes
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Chateau
Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes) 2008: A rather stylish layer of crystalline lemony
fruit here, underneath fresh honey. Great acid core on the palate, vibrant with
building sweetness, structured and harmonious. Crisp and appealing definition.
This is a nice effort considering the vintage. From my 2008 Bordeaux
en primeur assessment. 16-17+/20
(April 2009)
Chateau
Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes) 2007: This has a bright and minerally nose, with good
complexity of fruit, and some depth. An elegant richness, slowly building
through the midpalate, supple but balanced with very firm acidity. A fine,
floral finesse and good botrytis, and a moderate length. Really lovely potential
here. From my 2007 Bordeaux
en primeur assessment. 17-18+/20 (April 2008)
Chateau Lafaurie Peyraguey (Sauternes) 2006:
Vanilla and flower petals on the nose, and an appealing depth on the palate. Fat
and fleshy, with a perfumed, heady, citrus sweetness. there is some oak evident,
and overall this is a big and impressive wine, although there is good acidity
backing it up. This has a good style, with everything nicely put together. From
my tasting of
2006 Sauternes at
two years of age. 16+/20 (October 2008)
Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes) 2004:
A very reticent nose here today, showing a little flowery fruit and oak. Lovely
weight on the palate, huge texture, rolling across the palate, carrying and
honey and barley sugar character. Very big and rich style, with good acidity. A
lovely Lafaurie. From my
2004 Bordeaux assessment. 17+/20 (October 2006)
Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes) 2003: Rich nose, very suggestive of fatness
to come, with great floral-edged honey and botrytis aromas. Obviously youthful.
Huge weight on the palate, which is weighty, rich and creamy. This does have a
very fat, opulent style, but with correct acidity. Wonderful presence on the
palate, but it does need some time for the complexity to develop. From my
2003 Bordeaux
assessment. 18.5/20 (October 2005)
Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes) 2001: A slightly deeper, richer, orange
tinged hue when compared with some other 2001s. Lovely nose, full of oranges and
barley sugar, honey and floral herbs. The palate has simply fabulous freshness,
with fine acidity carrying along a panoply of flavours, led by sweet orange
fruit with notes of orange blossom, honey and minerals. A delicious creamy
style, backed up by a little grip and that fine acidity for structure, complete
the picture. Overall this is wonderful wine, beautifully balanced, and just
dripping with pent-up potential for the future. From a
Sauternes 2001 assessment.
19+/20 (May 2006)
Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes)
1986: This seems to have a much richer, more orange-golden hue than my first bottle. Having
said that, memories fade with time, and reflecting on them can also lead to
unintentional embellishment, and so even though I mention it I wouldn't put too
much significance on this apparent deepening of colour alone. There is, however,
also obvious development on tasting the wine, and so perhaps my memory is less
fragile than I might think. The
nose has clearly moved on since my last experience. In fact it starts off with
the barest whiff of oxidation, which shows on the nose at first but seems to
fade, or perhaps with a little time I was just seeing past it, and on the
palate it only really shows at the finish. The palate still has plenty of
sweetness, with a more roasted fruit character, and a richer, botrytis-laden,
marmalade-tinged character. Underneath it all there is good acidity and a considerably
spicy grip, which is particularly firm at the finish. My first impression was
one of disappointment, but returning to this wine after 24 hours I was happier;
that questionable early aroma had disappeared, leaving a wine with a rich and
harmonious character on the palate, soft and sweet rather than laser-like, but
nevertheless giving plenty of pleasure. Venerable as it is, I have to admit that this bottle - which of course may not
be representative - is showing some features that hint at early decline.
Fortunately it came good in the end, but sadly it isn't up to the level of
previous bottles, and my score reflects that. See my
Wine of the Week
write-up for label images and more. 17/20 (January 2009)
Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes)
1986: A favourite of mine, last tasted only eighteen months ago. A touch richer and darker than the
preceding wines. Power on the nose, which has intense aromas of syrupy
fruit, botrytis and oak. The fruit-laden palate confirms that this is
the biggest wine of the three, although again there is correct acidity.
This is lovely now, but I think many would prefer to wait for better
integration of the sugar, oak and acidity. And there is no rush, as this
is a classic vintage which will drink for a decade and more. 18.5/20 (August 2002)
Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes) 1986: In
the glass it has a fairly intense golden hue. A nose of pineapples,
botrytis and marmalade. Very smoky, perhaps reflecting
use of oak. The palate has more tropical fruit,
hazelnuts, angelica and apples. Rich, sweet and balanced.
A delicious length. From a
Bordeaux 1986 blind
horizontal tasting. 18.5/20 (February 2001)
Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes)
1981: A very similar colour here, but more evident sweetness on the
nose, which was redolent with honey and beeswax. This comes through on
the palate, which is full and rounded. There is great acidity, though,
which achieves a very correct balance. Drinking perfectly now. 18/20 (August 2002)
Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes)
1975: A middling golden hue. A lovely nose, clean, with pineapple
fruit, and a touch of wax and resin. The sweetness is still very
apparent, although less so than the subsequent wines. What was there was
kept in check by quite racy acidity. Lemon and orange marmalade
character, particularly towards the finish. 17/20 (August 2002)
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