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Domaine Huet

The history of Domaine Huet l'Echansonne is not a long one, which is perhaps surprising when one considers that no account of Vouvray, and perhaps of all the wines of the Loire, would be complete without discussion of Victor Huet, his son Gaston, the third generation in the shape of Noël Pinguet, and the portfolio of vineyards that they have tended over the years. It was Victor Huet and his wife that set the seed that grew into the domaine as we know it today. Originally from Paris, where his father owned a bistro, and a veteran of World War I, Victor moved to the clean air of the country to alleviate the respiratory symptoms he experienced as a result of exposure to gas in the trenches. His wife spotted the house that was to become theirs, and Victor spotted the accompanying three hectares of vines, the Haut Lieu vineyard. His original intention had been to take up forestry, but now there was a new calling. Thus, in 1928, Domaine Huet was born.

From Victor to Gaston, to Noël

Victor's son, Gaston, was born in 1910, and went on to lead as eventful a life as I think one could wish for. Having been interned as a prisoner of war during World War II, he boosted morale in the camp by organising wine dinners with what meagre provisions they were given, helped by bottles posted into the camp from outside. When finally released, however, he was a weak and shrunken man, who nevertheless had the grit to walk home across France to his native Vouvray. This gives some clue to the metal of the man who went on to become mayor of Vouvray only a short while later in 1947, who is credited with forcing the diversion of a new TGV line, which until his intervention was about to plough straight through the Vouvray vineyards, eventually taking on the mantle of Conseiller Général of Indre-et-Loire, vice president of the local growers syndicat, and Loire representative on a number of INAO committees.

With the passing of the years it is natural for the vigneron to look to the next generation to take on the family domaine, but Gaston's son, Jean, was not interested, following his chosen career of photography instead. And so it was his son-in-law, Noël Pinguet, stepped up to the plate. In the latter years of Gaston's life the two worked together, coaxing even higher quality from an already exalted collection of vines. An important step was the conversion to biodynamic viticulture, a change instigated by Pinguet who wished to move away from the dependence on chemical vineyard treatments, pesticides and herbicides. He met up with Nicolas Joly of Clos de la Coulée de Serrant, and was interested enough to switch over a trial portion of the vineyard, with Gaston's agreement, to biodynamic methods in 1988. The results were such that by 1990 the whole estate was cultivated according to the teachings of Rudolf Steiner, making Huet one of the earliest converts to the technique. In 2002 Gaston Huet died, leaving Pinguet to run the domaine alone; he remains the estate's keeper but no longer owner, as in 2003 he accepted financial backing from the famed Tokaji producer István Szepsy and a Chinese-American financier Anthony Hwang. Pinguet retained control over the winemaking, but also took 20% of the shares in the company, so he has maintained a financial as well as viticultural foothold.

The Huet Vineyards

During his tenure of the estate Gaston expanded the family's holdings considerably. Victor's original Haut Lieu estate saw more planting, broadening out so that today it covers 9 hectares, and there were new purchases, most notably Le Mont, an 8 hectare vineyard purchased in 1957, and the Clos du Bourg (left), a 6 hectare site purchased not long afterwards, in 1963. These three vineyards are the core of the Huet domaine, each yielding rich fruit and an array of styles, from sec (typically 3 - 5 g/l) and demi-sec (typically 10 - 20 g/l) to moelleux and moelleux premier trie (typically over 30 g/l, generally 60 - 100 g/l for the latter). In very recent vintages use has also been made of the Vodanis vineyard, where a sec is produced. The commonly encountered vintage is the 2001, when Domaine Huet rented the vines and had control over the entire process from harvest through to bottling. There was none produced in 2002, and in 2003 newly arrived investor Anthony Hwang stated that the quality was insufficient for Domaine Huet, and that there would be no more wines from Vodanis; this perception that the wine never lived up the name of Huet may be why some bottles in the UK market were simply labelled Domaine de Vodanis, with no mention of Domaine Huet anywhere to be seen, although the label design was unmistakeably Huet. That 2001 was the one and only vintage seemed to have been confirmed when I visited the domaine that year, but on subsequent visits I see there are also 2003 and 2004 vintages of Vodanis available. Whereas the 2001 has always been listed with the Domaine Huet wines, namely those from the three exalted vineyards listed above, the 2003 and 2004 are listed under the Sélection Noël Pinguet, where Domaine Huet effectively acts as a négociant rather than actually making the wine. This is another side to the Huet coin; alongside these more recent vintages of Vodanis, there is also a sparkling Cuvée l'Echansonne Vouvray Brut, Chinon from Domaine Philippe Pinard and Tokay from Domaine de Királyudvar.

Each of the three core Huet vineyards contains a balance of young and old vines, in fairly exact proportions; 15% between 1 and 10 years, 35% between 10 and 30 years and 50% between 30 and 50 years. It is the differing terroirs of the three sites that determines the style and quality of the wines. The 9 hectare Haut Lieu vineyard is the Huet original, and here a layer of a heavy, brown clay together with and a little limestone, up to four metres at its deepest, makes the wines rounded, supple and approachable. The next acquisition, Le Mont, lies on the slopes of the Loire, and here the soils are more stony, with less clay which is also of a different, greener character, mixed with some silica. It is the 6 hectare Clos de Bourg that is generally regarded as the greater of the three main vineyards. It is a true clos (walled vineyard), on the slopes of Vouvray above the village church. There is considerable history behind this site, records indicating its existence as long ago as the 7th Century when it was owned by the collegiate church of St Martin de Tours. The site consists of a shallow layer of soil, 1 metre in depth, over solid limestone rock. The vine roots work their way quickly through such comparatively shallow soils, penetrating the limestone beneath; as a consequence the site is preferred for its solid, structured, age-worthy wines.

The Wines of Domaine Huet

The Huet grapes are hand harvested, which enables picking by successive tries – each trie being a separate pass by the workers through the vineyard. This enables the selection of only the best bunches of nobly rotted grapes. Naturally the first pass through the vineyard, fermented and bottled as première trie, is of the highest quality and therefore commands the highest price. The wines undergo temperature-controlled fermentation in 225 and 600 litre oak barrels as well as 3000 litre stainless steel vats. The wines are racked and sulphured to arrest the ferment when the balance between sugar and alcohol is right. There is no malolactic fermentation to maintain freshness. Naturally the style depends on the vintage as well as the terroir, with the best years such as 1989 and 1947 being defined by great wines of marvellous longevity, but the vineyard also makes its mark. Those of the Clos du Bourg tend towards richness, with demi-sec and sweeter being the norm in many vintages, whereas those from other vineyards will tend more towards a sec style. The première trie wines from the Clos de Bourg, in a good vintage, are among the most sought after wines of the Loire, and rightly so; such wines, and many others from Huet, can be found in my cellar.

Looking at more recent years, I encountered the Huet 2007 vintage in the least expected of places, at the Biodyvin tasting hosted by Chateau Fonroque during the Bordeaux 2007 primeurs. The Huet team regards the 2007 as better than the 2006, although they were not well endowed with sweet wines, and there were certainly no première trie wines. Each of the three vineyards yielded a demi-sec, but Clos de Bourg was the only moelleux. I though the three wines I tasted there - sec from Le Haut Lieu and Clos de Bourg, and the aforementioned moelleux, were delicious, and I would certainly agree that they were superior to the rather less focussed and rather floral wines from the 2006 vintage which I tasted at the domaine in the summer of 2007. For more punch and impact, however, the wines from 2005 seem to take some beating, and those I have tasted seem well set up for the cellar. The same is true, perhaps to a slightly lesser extent, of the 2004 vintage and also the highly regarded 2002 vintage. Before I finish, it would be a great shame to overlook the sparkling wines from Huet, which today are among the best of the appellation. I have a great penchant for the vintage Pétillant Vouvray, which in the 2002 and 2000 vintages has been fine. (2/10/03, updated 12/12/06, 26/9/07, 30/4/08)

Contact details:
Address: 11, rue de la Croix Buisée, BP 34, 37210 Vouvray
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 47 52 78 87
Fax: +33 (0) 2 47 52 66 74
Internet: www.huet-echansonne.com

Domaine Huet - Tasting Notes

Organising such an array of tasting notes, with so many different styles and vineyards involved, can be difficult. Eventually I decided, within each vintage, to order my notes by style rather than origin, starting with sec, then demi-sec and finally moelleux. Click to locate stockists.

Latest notes:

Older notes:

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Sec 2006: An incredibly perfumed nose here, this is in a very open and feminine place right now. It has just a light trace of minerality. On the palate, it is very soft and relaxed, and doesn't possess the structure I would have hoped for. I would like to taste this again before passing judgement, but on this tasting it seems rather inconsequential. 14-15+?/20 (July 2007)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Sec 2006: Another very perfumed nose, although a touch less pungent than the Haut Lieu. It also displays more substance and depth on the palate, with a firmer, less feminine style. The influence of the vineyard, I would say. It is preferable, but again I am not sure as to the absolute quality. 15-16+?/20 (July 2007)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos de Bourg Sec 2005: A limpid appearance, and a transfixing yet very primary nose, redolent of fresh pear juice, cut with minerals and cream. But in the palate it is patently dry despite the richness which does carry through from the nose, but the wine never loses focus or precision. There is a fabulous depth of flavour, tangible, almost floury extract and body, and an impressive length for a finish. This is very, very impressive, and should perform wonderfully in the cellar. 18+/20 (November 2006)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos de Bourg Demi-Sec 2005: This is pleasing, not so expressive, rather it is gentle, subdued, perhaps a touch closed on the nose. It has a lovely presence on the palate though, textured and delineated, with a good weight, structure and substance. The character and interest will come with time in bottle. Lots of potential here I think. 17.5+/20 (July 2007)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Moelleux 2005: Again, although not showing too much aromatically here, this wine has all the necessary texture and weight for cellaring. It is broad, correct, stylish, integrated and nicely balanced. The more interesting aromatics and characteristics will return with time I think. 17.5+/20 (July 2007)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Sec 2004: This has a rather less exuberant nose than the 2006 version. There is a much more appealing minerality to the fruit, and less perfume. The palate is full, broad and rather grippy, although not hugely vivacious. Of the sec cuvées tasted here I like this wine most, although comparison with the 2006s in their embryonic state is perhaps invalid. 16.5+/20 (July 2007)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Sec 2004: Listed as of the Haut Lieu vineyard. This was a popular choice at the table, coping well with a wide range of choices for the first course. Very fresh and minerally on the nose, with a similar character on the palate, flavoursome and lithe, with a good broad presence on the palate. Tasted at The Witchery. 17/20 (March 2007)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Clos de Bourg 2004: A fine nose, of minerals, pears, herbs and nettles, with little hints of richness in the shape of capsicum and lemon meringue. Overall though, fresh and vibrant. Richly composed palate, with great depth. Fresh and pithy, very structured, rounded and complete. This has a fine, grippy presence on the palate and has potential aplenty for the cellar. 17.5+/20 (November 2006)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant 2002: This is in fact my first taste from a half-case I acquired at the domaine last year. The bottle lets out just the faintest phhut with the release of the cork, an effect of the lower pressure pétillant style of course. The wine itself has a rich golden hue, and a small to moderate sized bead. It is a pleasure to behold, but this is nothing compared to what is gained from the aroma, which is vibrant, aromatic and full of typicity. Here we have a wine that is unmistakeably Vouvray, full of chalky, powdery, almost sherbetty mineral quality, together with notes of golden fruits. The palate is broad and characterful, spreading across the mouth on contact, stimulating the taste receptors with its array of lemony, powdery, chalky character all wrapped up in a creamy, gently effervescent richness. And under it all, the firm stab of acidity that will carry the wine along for a decade or two in the cellar, developing and softening as it does so. My only concern is, despite appreciating the joys of older Vouvray, this has a lot of youthful pleasure to give now. And it is much better than my cursory note from the summer of 2007 suggests (although the score says enough, I think). For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 18+/20 (May 2008)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant 2002: This has much more impact than the non-vintage bottling. An attractive, earthy minerality, stony and less floral. Full palate, lots of presence, and a delicate pétillance. Much better. 17.5/20 (July 2007)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Sec 2002: This is a clean, mineral wine on the nose. Currently very tight on the palate, but with racy acidity. This will develop more character and weight with time. 16+/20 (August 2003)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Sec 2002: Predominantly mineral aromas on the nose, like crumbled, chalky rocks - a terroir note perhaps - with a touch of classic wet wool to round it out. A faint tingle of dissolved carbon dioxide on entry. Otherwise it's round, mouthfilling, but very bright and minerally on the palate. Quite rich, but cut through by a firm citrus acidity. Clearly shows the quality of the 2002 vintage. 16.5+/20 (August 2003)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Demi-Sec 2002: Very expressive on the nose. On the palate this is fuller and richer than those from Le Mont. Nevertheless it has poise and balance also. Another stunner from the 2002 vintage. 16.5+/20 (August 2003)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 2002: Aromas of melons over stones on the nose. A lovely palate – it has poise and elegance rather than power. It is full, expressive, and has a wealth of fruit. The complexity will come with time. Balanced acidity. This is a lovely wine for drinking over the next decade whilst waiting for other wines from what is obviously a great vintage to mature. 16.5+/20 (August 2003)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos de Bourg Moelleux Première Trie 2002: Giving little on the nose but fruit and mineral nuances and an obvious purity. A fabulous weight and texture on the palate. Much more flavours than the nose would suggest, and exquisitely balanced. This is brilliant. What a vintage! One for the cellar. 18+/20 (August 2003)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Vodanis Sec 2001: As noted previously, the label actually says 'Domaine de Vodanis' without any mention of Huet. A lovely nose, more evolved now, rocky, stony and mineral. Quite classic, a little funky, certainly expressive, quite bright and pervasive on the nose. Firm and lively acidity at the core, very well delineated, a rather masculine structure, with piles of flavour, with some forceful texture wrapped around that. A lot of impact, perhaps not the most elegantly presented wine but it is but certainly full of character and appeal. A touch creamy and yet incisive, with firm acids on the finish. Still lots of cellar potential here. 16+/20 (July 2007)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Vodanis Sec 2001: The label actually says 'Domaine de Vodanis' without any mention of Huet, but the design is unmistakeable. It is a vineyard they rented for two years, and I previously tasted this wine at the domaine in 2003. As noted then, this is actually a sec tendre wine (4-15 g/l residual sugar), so it carries a little more around the middle than many a sec. Not much on the nose - as with last time. A little mineral. But the palate has evolved. Slightly creamy. Full, almost sensual texture on midpalate. Mineral-apple element. Very good. 15.5/20 (April 2005)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Vodanis Sec 2001: Not giving much on the nose – quite closed. Fairly full and rich on the palate, probably reflecting sugar concentration – this is in fact a sec tendre wine (4-15 g/l residual sugar, rather than 3 - 5 g/l which is the norm for sec wines). There’s some good minerality, although no great character otherwise. But I suspect this will come with time. 16+/20 (August 2003)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Sec 2001: Open, expressive nose. Fresh palate, with a full, rounded mouth-feel. Some mineral flavours. It remains somewhat tight and needs more time yet. 16+/20 (August 2003)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Demi-Sec 2001: Very expressive nose, with aromas of blood oranges and lots of mineral nuances. A characterful palate, full of orange fruit, backed up by appropriately fresh acidity. Nicely balanced. This is lovely. 16.5+/20 (August 2003)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec 2001: Expressive nose, full of minerals and bright, slightly waxy, floral elements. Full, rounded, with firm acidity on the palate. Still has the faintest spritz of carbon dioxide. Very flavoursome. Lovely weight, probably derived from the residual sugar. 16.5+/20 (August 2003)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant 2000: This doesn't quite have the depth of character of the 2002, which I prefer, but it is good. It is less aromatic and less broad, but has an appealing structure on the palate with floral streak, and it fades slowly in an attractive finish. 17/20 (July 2007)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant 2000: A very soft phhutt on opening, and a very gentle foam when poured into the glass. A pale lemon-golden hue, and quite a tight bead. Surprisingly, quite a bready-biscuity edge to the aroma, although with more classic mineral notes and nuances of white flower petals following this up. A lovely palate though, soft and divinely caressing, gently building in texture through the midpalate, before a complete and slowly fading creamy finish. Full, fruity, rather fun, not terribly complex but wonderfully flattering and very well made. I suspect it will last some time, but as long as the 1987? Who knows? Very good indeed now though. 17+/20 (November 2006)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Demi-Sec 2000: Very fresh and aromatic on the nose. Clean, well-flavoured palate with good acidity. There is a touch of roundness at the edges. 16+/20 (August 2003)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant 1999: This has a fairly rich golden colour, and despite the pétillant designation it has quite a coarse bead. This quickly fades, however, leaving just one or two streams of tiny bubbles. There's a good nose, which is classic Chenin Blanc, with a fresh and honeyed (although not sweet), wet wool nose. Bright fruit on the palate, and good freshness. The acidity is prominent. Just a touch bready. 16.5+/20 (September 2002)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Mousseaux 1999: there is a little rubber on the nose here, alongside some mineral fruit. On the palate it has a much broader, much firmer mousse than the pétillant wines. Lots of character, and some hopefully temporary funky characteristics. Very firm. Good, but the two pétillant vintages are the better wines I think. 16.5/20 (July 2007)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Sec 1999: Classic nose, led by aromas of wet wool and crumbled, chalky rocks, with a prominent cordite, gunflint-like note as well. Firm, structured, and quite grippy on the palate. Strong, peppery, tingly acidity which would keep this wine going for some time in the cellar. Medium bodied, with more mineral and stone fruit flavour. Clean finish, good length. 16+/20 (August 2003)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Moelleux 1997: Honey and beeswax on the nose, with toffee notes and mineral complexity. A real cornucopia of flavours on the palate, which has honey, toffee, a waxy candle-like note and orange-blossom fruit. Lovely complexity leading into a crescendo of a finish. This was a brilliant vintage and I think this wine will yet improve. 17+/20 (August 2003)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Moelleux Première Trie 1997: This has an appealing, mid-gold hue, pure but not excessively or worryingly deep in colour. The nose has a number of classic Chenin traits, showing a warm, woolly character, with faint traces of honey and toffee that I suspect may become a little more apparent with further bottle age. Rich and quite direct and defined on entry, before showing a broad and yet firmly structured character through the midpalate, with good texture cut through most decisively by a classically styled acidity. Little notes of richness on the finish. Lovely balance, and great length. It still has quite a tight core on the palate, and this wine clearly has a lot of potential for the future. I am glad I have the best part of half a case left to see how this one goes - it should be great. From a tasting of the 1997 Vintage at ten years of age. 18.5+/20 (December 2007)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux Première Trie 1996: A fascinating illustration of how a bottle is treated can affect the quality. Two bottles of this included in the tasting; this one the first, sourced from a UK merchant. It has a bright and shimmering yellow-gold hue, and a nose of powdered rocks, firmly mineral, smoky even, with a honey and lemon layer of fruit behind it all. What the palate offers is broad and well balanced; a fine layer of minerally, stony fruit set in a texture that is rounded and creamy, but clearly matched by the fine pervasive presence on the palate and a firm, somewhat peppery undercurrent of acidity. This shows very precise, well defined, rather firm structure with a nuance of melon-edged fruit, both components that suggest this will cellar well and show fine depth and complexity in the future. Impressive, with a very typical chalky, honeycomb style, and great potential. The second bottle was purchased at the domaine in 2003 and stored by me ever since, and it shows quite differently, with a fabulously intense golden hue, with a firm, deep, characterful nose that already hints at the great complexity and varied array of aromas and flavours that this wine will offer over the coming years. There is a profound, smoky, lemon-butter and thyme nose, with a firm minerality too, which is simply delightful. The palate has a similarly forthright structure, so much more defined and precise, with streamlined lemon and mineral acidity, carrying forward a fine array of musky, smoky, beeswax, straw and hay flavours. This is simply divine, I am slightly at a loss for words to describe its deep finesse. Lovely, delineated finish and considerable length. This should do well in the cellar for a decade, and perhaps much, much longer. From a 1996 tasting, ten years on. The first merited 18+/20, the second easily 19+/20 (December 2006)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux Première Trie 1996: This wine displays considerably less approachability and maturity than the Haut Lieu Première Trie 1993. Full of beeswax and honeycomb flavours on the palate, balanced by a fresh lemony acidity. Fantastic weight and texture. Needs time. 18+/20 (August 2003)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 1995: This older wine shows more obvious maturity on the nose – but it was not such a great vintage. On the palate it is a little one dimensional, but it has a pleasurable dense sweetness which is balanced by good acidity. 16+/20 (August 2003)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Sec 1993: A moderately rich, golden hue. Lots of honey and complex Chenin character on the nose, and a little suggestion of botrytis too? An interesting possibility for what is obviously a dry wine, made from vineyards harvested in tries. There is plenty of complexity, a funky mix of straw, minerals and organic aromas all presented in a very integrated fashion. Bone dry on the palate, slightly sour acidity, rich but not through sweetness, through depth and flavour. Golden straw. It hangs together well, but is bordering on unbalanced. Nevertheless, enjoyable with this in mind. 15.5/20 (July 2007)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Moelleux Première Trie 1993: Paler than the Tokay, obviously, but still a very rich colour for the Loire. The nose has honeycomb, smoke, butter, bay, and stony minerals. On the palate there are piles of fresh acidity carrying forth a raft of intense, minerally, slightly honeyed fruit with notes of bottle age. Lovely intensity and acidity. This is brilliant. Needs another five to eight years at least. From a 1993 Vintage ten year on tasting. 18.5+/20 (December 2003)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Moelleux Première Trie 1993: The only single-vineyard sweet wine from this vintage (there was a Cuvée Constance). Great interest here – a smoky, fatty nose, with minerals and stones thrown into the pot as well. Developing wonderful complexity on the palate which has notes of toffee and orange fruit, balanced out by perfect acidity. Brilliant. 18.5+/20 (August 2003)

Domaine Huet Cuvée Constance 1993: A remarkably rich colour for any wine from Vouvray, belying the intensity of this nectar. The nose is remarkable, characterised by aromas of rich golden syrup, with a whispering seam of botrytis which has a curiously dry suggestion, as does the nutty, caramel nuances that follow on. This is deep, complex and multi-facetted. The palate has an impressive, broad character, with plenty of substance, rich but yet not opulently sweet as indeed the nose suggested; rather it is impressively layered and textured. This has a fine presence on the palate, built on depth and quality rather than a flattering layer of sugar, and I like the wine all the more for it. It is complex, with hidden depths that cry out to be explored. Although not the greatest Cuvée Constance by a mile, and certainly not the greatest vintage, this is a pleasure all the same. Great length too. Fine, drinking now, although there is no particular hurry. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 18/20 (July 2007)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Demi-Sec 1989: Moderate depth of colour, a straw-gold hue. Very appealing on the nose, with aromas of coffee, honeycomb, wet wool and toffee. Moderate, elegant weight on the palate, with plenty of interest. Quite a bit of grippy structure alongside the rich, rounded flavours, but leading into a grippy, almost dry finish, although it gives a more full, rounded impression at slightly warmer temperatures. Great length. The one thing it lacks is concentration through the midpalate. This would go very well with many foods. Ready now, but should drink well for years. 16.5/20 (April 2005)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Brut 1987: Quite a solid cork. A very soft fizz, generating just a little foam when poured, and a very fine but persistent bead. Quite a rich and golden hue. The nose is quite evolved and expressive but needs a little agitation to get it going, giving off some powdery, minerally, rocky character. Quite a lovely style on the palate, full with rich Chenin flavour, but cut through with super acidity. Talcy notes. Very complete, rounded body, with a creamy edge to the midpalate, and certainly holding up very well; this should go for years in the cellar yet. Esoteric and very characterful. 17.5/20 (November 2006)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Demi-Sec 1985: In the glass the wine has quite a deep, rich, golden colour, rather more than I might have expected for a demi-sec. This is perhaps an indicator of the condition of the wine, however, which although initially a little muted then begins to show notes of baked apples which reveals a touch - fortunately just a touch - of Madeirisation. But there are some lovely notes of mature Chenin too, aromas of funk and wool, and this wine still has much to offer. The palate also suggests that it is time to drink up - as judged by this particularly dusty bottle anyway - as it is quite dry. It has a considerable weight and certainly hasn't dried out, with a good texture, good grip, and firm fresh acidity, all nicely integrated and it will be some time before this wine falls apart. But there is no sweetness, although it has a broad palate, with more funky, appley notes like those on the nose, and there is still some length. With roast pork it worked very well indeed, coping very nicely with the apple sauce too. But I'm glad this was my one and only bottle of this, as I would be worried about any other bottles left lingering in the cellar. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17/20 (February 2007)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 1985: I give credit to domaines that hold on to mature vintages and offer them for tasting. This richly coloured wine has aromas of beeswax and creamy lemon meringue pie. Good structure on the palate, nicely flavoured, with good sweetness still. There is a bitter twang in the finish, but overall this wine is wearing very well at eighteen years of age. 17/20 (August 2003)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Moelleux 1962: An impressive, mature, fairly deep, burnished golden hue. On the nose it offers aromas of straw, quince and dried apricots, developing into a more nutty, toffee-honey-fruit wet wool profile with air. In the background there is a faint seam of apply madeirisation, but thankfully this is not a strong feature here or on the palate. A good texture on entry, quite rich, weighty, with lively, almost tingling acidity. It loses this texture and weight through the midpalate though, and the acidity seems a little disjointed here. Nevertheless the mineral-edged, wet wool Chenin flavours persist. It has dried out somewhat - in fact it is quite dry, certainly so on the finish. As it receives more air it opens out to develop a more full, fleshy, almost creamy texture, although still kept serious by that firm acidity and dryness. Positive finish and great length. On this evidence this is unlikely to improve further - drink up. 18/20 (August 2003)

Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant NV: Current release. Very fresh and mineral, quite pretty on the nose, lightly floral. Fresh and delicate on the palate, a light pétillance (obviously), quite complete and attractive. Not the substance of the vintage wines, though. 15/20 (July 2007)

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