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Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral

The Bages plateau, named for the family that owned this land in the 16th century, lies between the towns of Pauillac, to the north, and St-Julien-Beychevelle, to the south. Just a short walk through the vineyards to the south of Pauillac is the village of Bages itself, situated on a gravelly rise which although not of great altitude, in this coastal landscape of gently rolling gravel mounds it affords as good a view over the Gironde as you are likely to find. Closely dotted around there are numerous chateaux and vineyards that clearly declare this rare vantage point as their home; Lynch-Bages, Croizet-Bages, Cordeillan-Bages, Haut-Bages-Averous and, of course, Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral. The prefix Haut describes the estate's position at the top of the plateau, very close to the highest point of the commune, whereas Libéral tells us a little of the chateau's originators.

The Libéral family established this as their home in the 18th century, and consequently gave their name to the estate. They were courtiers, buyers and sellers of wines, broking deals between lordly vignerons and the market. As such they had great knowledge of the wine business, and I suspect may have accumulated some wealth along the way, allowing them to purchase this land, and to gather together a small collection of vineyard plots in the commune of Pauillac. Clearly by the mid-19th century the wine had a presence and a track record on the place, as the 1855 classification saw it ranked as a Cinquième Cru Classé.

Despite this promise over the ensuing century the property fell into a state of neglect, not an uncommon tale in this region at the time, compounded by vineyard disease, war and economic depression. It was not until 1960 that there was any sign of hope, when the property was purchased by the Société Civile Charreules, an operation under the control of the famous Cruse dynasty. Unusually, during the decade that followed some of the Haut-Bages-Libéral vineyards that adjoined those of Pontet-Canet were cleaved off, and incorporated into the latter estate, which was also under Cruse ownership at the time, but otherwise this change of ownership was a step in the right direction. There was at least investment, as the new owners replanted some of the vineyards, and erected winery buildings and installed new equipment, although in part this was in response to the need to begin chateau-bottling rather than to ratchet up the quality.

The Cruse family sold Pontet-Canet following the scandal of the early 1970s, and in 1982 Haut-Bages-Libéral went the same way. Competition to purchase the property, which has vineyards adjacent to some of the most famous in the commune, was stiff, but the eventual winner was Jacques Merlaut, who added the chateau and estate to his expanding portfolio of properties that went under the title of the Taillan Group. He already owned Chasse-Spleen, and to these two the family subsequently added Gruaud-Larose, Ferrière, Citran and La Gurgue; these are now under the control of Merlaut's granddaughter, Claire Villars, and all the properties have enjoyed her dynamic, revitalising presence.

The three vineyards of Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral are, for the most part, ideally situated within the commune of Pauillac. The largest lies just across the road from the vineyards of Chateau Latour, with only a country lane defining where first growth ends and fifth growth begins, and another plot lies close by, slightly further south, just adjacent to Pichon-Lalande. Both these vineyards are a short distance south of the town of Pauillac, and are just a stones throw from the banks of the Gironde. The third plot, however, lies further inland on the Bages plateau, adjacent to Grand-Puy-Lacoste. No doubt the increasing age of the 28 hectares of vines at Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral, following the replanting of the Cruse era, has also contributed to the gradual improvement exhibited by the wine over the last few decades. The average age is now about 35 years, and older vines are replaced individually rather than en masse. As is the norm with the classed growth properties of the left bank, Cabernet Sauvignon dominates (80%), with some accompanying Merlot (17%) and some Petit Verdot (3%). The harvest is manual, and fermentation is in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats before going in to oak (40% new each year) for sixteen months. Claire Villars, with oenologist Alain Sutre, has continued to make improvements during her tenure, introducing a lengthy cuvaison and malolactic en barrique; many of these new processes were intended to soften the impact of the wine, which had a reputation for being somewhat hard and muscular, particularly in its youth. Today, production of the grand vin, Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral, stands at around 9000 cases per annum, with 6500 cases of the second wine, La Chapelle de Bages.

Haut-Bages-Libéral is one of those worthy fifth growth Pauillac wines, like Haut-Batailley and one or two others, that offer good value to those in the know. It has been a rather burly style over the years, but in more recent vintages such as the 2002, 2004 and 2005 there is a more attractive, lifted style, with a caressing character, which I certainly find appealing. What is more, in the right vintage it still remains very good value. (24/7/02, updated 28/11/06)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral, 33250 Pauillac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 58 02 37
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 59 29 82
Internet: www.hautbagesliberal.com

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral - Tasting Notes

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Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) 2009: A very blue-crimson rim. The nose here is very open, perfumed with crunchy fruit, all with a bright and crystalline character. Bright and rather confected fruit on the palate though, with sweet raspberry, wild strawberry and violet. Good ripe tannins, with the firm but velvety style that characterises the vintage. The fruit profile is very different to what I expect though. The acidity is more subtle than in some other wines too. It could make for some appealing drinking at the right price, it just depends what happens to those unusual aromatics. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 16-17+?/20 (March 2010)

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) 2008: A vibrant and open nose here, with cherry, raspberry and cream. Fresh and vibrant, well defined, but also polished and rounded. A nice delineating seam of acidity and well coated tannins, with a rich substance, makes this a success. Very good potential here indeed. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 16.5-17.5+/20 (April 2009)

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) 2007: Solid and slightly feral fruit on the nose here, fairly reserved, dark, and slightly hot. A palate with a little substance, nicely gentle fruit, and some rather raw tannins behind. Loose-knit. Overall this doesn't make a very positive impression on me. Short finish too. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 14+/20 (October 2009)

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) 2007: An appealing nose, although the fruit is somewhat dominated by the oak at present. Rather a gentle character to the palate at first, soft and supple, but with a firm grip beneath. There is not a lot of flesh or texture. Obvious tannic structure. Short. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 13.5-14.5+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) 2006: Rather muted but attractive fruit on the nose. Light on the palate, quite elegant, and fresh. It has a little depth and a firmness to what fruit there is here. It is decently composed, but lacking in impact. At best, nice. From my 2006 Bordeaux assessment. 14.5-15.5/20 (April 2007)

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) 2005: This has a very vibrant raspberry fruit, bright and direct in character, but with a creamy edge to tone it down. The palate is textured and fills out nicely with a raspberry cream character, in a slightly flashy fashion. This is a very ripe, supple style, with soft midpalate tannins building to a large presence at the finish. The acid is veering towards the low end. It shows the warmth of the vintage a little in its structure, but nevertheless there is plenty here to commend. Very good. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 16.5+/20 (October 2007)

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) 2005: CF 72%, M 28%. A good colour. Very expressive nose, showing notes of raspberry and tar, with a floral edge. There is character and interest here. Soft, sweet, creamy toffee ice cream here. Good weight. Rather a ripe, caressing style on the palate, with supple tannins and fine acidity. This wine is certainly hanging together very nicely. Easily the best of the few HBL vintages I have tasted, this is an excellent effort that could provide some very good value. From my 2005 Bordeaux en primeur tasting. 16.5-17.5/20 (April 2006)

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) 2004: Initially this seems very firmly shut for business, but it is possible to coax a little dark fruit aroma from the glass. Lovely texture on the palate though, with moderate acidity, and a fat, rounded style. There is a huge amount of ripe tannin peeking out from behind some attractive, ripe black fruits; this clearly has really good potential, and should not only be lovely to drink but should also be very good value. 16.5+/20 (April 2006)

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) 2003: Good, youthful and fresh fruit on the nose, still with some nutty oak. Ripe and rounded fruit on the palate, and here we have ripe, supple, slightly meaty tannins nicely knitted into the fruit and texture that this wine possesses. A supple mouthfeel, firm fruit and a lovely style. A success for Clare Villars. Very good potential. From my 2003 Bordeaux assessment. 16.5+/20 (October 2005)

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) 2002: There's an attractive style on the nose here; it is perhaps a little muted, although nothing like as closed as the 2004, but there are some appealing, ripe, rather toasty black fruits. Fresh and balanced on the palate, with plenty of texture though, framed by some firm, upright tannins and a streak of crisp acidity. A very pleasing presence; another well made wine from Clare Villars with plenty of potential for the cellar, and offering good value. 16.5+/20 (April 2006)

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) 1996: A deep purple wine, full of the joys of youth on the nose. Gloriously intense fruit aromas, intertwined with ground coffee and toffee. Unsurprisingly, the palate is sweet, round and nicely textured. It has surprisingly approachable tannins despite its youth, bags of fruit and appropriate acidity. Drink 2005 onwards. 17.5+/20 (July 2002)

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) 1995: A deep purple wine, obviously different from those that have preceded. Sweet black fruits and ground coffee on the nose. No surprises on the palate, which has a sweet, full and rounded texture, plenty of fruit and approachable tannins. Good acidity. Drink 2004 onwards. 17+/20 (July 2002)

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) 1994: Fine moderately deep colour, pink-claret rim, little age apparent, rather like my last note which was a few years ago now. Cedary, open, peppery, sweet smoky cherry fruit, plump warm and welcoming. Full, mouthfilling, broad and warm on entry. Harder midpalate, still some slightly angular structure, but much more balanced and approachable than last time. Much more rounded, more composed wine. Really nice with food. Lovely freshness throughout. As previously noted it lacks a little flesh and substance, but this is a nice drinker's claret. From a 1994 Bordeaux tasting. 16+/20 (April 2007)

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) 1994: A great colour for ten years of age, with a dense core, fading only at the extreme rim, with a peripheral tinge of dusky pink-red maturity. A classic nose - perhaps the most enjoyable aspect at present - with cedar, cigar box, black cherry and minerals. The palate, though, is stern, although drinking it over several days I certainly watched it soften up. Good black cherry flavour, a little lacking in flesh although it does fatten up. There is still tannin and this wine, from my cold cellar, has some maturing to do yet. 15.5+/20 (June 2004)

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) 1989: It's always fascinating to see the procession of aromas that come from a mature wine, and in this respect the Haut-Bages-Libéral doesn't disappoint. It kicks off with a little note of rotting meat at first, but so many wines do show elements of bottle stink after nearly twenty years under a cork. And even at this point, there are notes of perfumed fruit, and indeed the wine really opens out over an hour or so, revealing rather classic elements of violets and rusty metal, with notes of damp coffee grounds. It is perhaps three hours of so after first opening that it hits its apogee, impressive for a wine of this age I think. The palate has a lovely substance to it; there is still a really delightful backbone of dry tannins, supporting a gentle flesh of fruit, and nicely balanced out by fresh acidity. It has elegance, a sappy, mature fruit finish, and a little length. It hasn't the firm definition of a great wine - the structure is doing well to keep a rounded, showy midpalate in check I think - but it is certainly very good drinking. For that, and for those moments of perfumed delight, it deserves a good score. I look forward to my last bottle - without rushing - as this wine has held up well. From a 1989 vintage twenty years on tasting. 17.5/20 (November 2009)

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) 1988: A dense, deep red wine, cut through with a mahogany streak. Some sense of tannin on the nose, which has a hard, sooty edge alongside exotic black bean aromas. There's good weight on the palate, with firm, prominent tannins overlying plummy, slightly pruney fruit. A good rounded, creamy texture and plenty of acidity. Spicy tannins dominate the finish. Approachable, but really another wine in need of time. 17/20 (July 2002)

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) 1986: This is a dark red wine with an emerging tawny edge. Tobacco and fruit character on the nose. The palate, however, is dominated by tannin, typical of this vintage. There's still good fruit, sweet tobacco flavour and a rounded, creamy texture. Fine acidity. Clean finish. Needs time. 17/20 (July 2002)

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) 1986: Again a dark, youthful looking wine. The nose is obviously classic Pauillac - restrained blackcurrant fruit with a firm lick of pencil lead. The palate is stacked with tannins, but has plentiful fruit and is richly textured. Again, the tannins are prominent on the finish. Good length. From a Bordeaux 1986 blind horizontal tasting. 17/20 (February 2001)

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) 1982: A dark wine, with a tawny, mahogany hue. Obvious power on the nose, still offering up a good amount of fruit, with touches of elegant, floral, violet aromas. The quality of the vintage shows through on the palate, which has firm, rounded tannins, lovely fruit still with a sweet edge, cigar box and floral character and correct acidity. The quality persists through to the finish, which has sweet fruit and tobacco. 18/20 (July 2002)