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Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne
When I first profiled Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne I was writing about one of St Emilion's Grand Cru estates, which are of course legion. The title Grand Cru rather suggests a grand estate perhaps producing a rarefied wine, but they are often nothing of the sort. As such the ranking is a misnomer at best, at worst misleading, and one must search carefully for a 'grand' wine from amongst the Grands Crus. In the case of Grand Corbin-Despagne, however, the Grand Cru classification has been only a temporary hiatus for the estate, which had been demoted from the superior rank of Grand Cru Classé in the 1996 revision of the St Emilion classification. A regularly revised classification, the 2006 review of the rankings, based on the ten vintages from 1993 to 2002, saw Grand Corbin-Despagne up at the higher level once again. This was swiftly followed, however, by another setback when the whole classification was nullified consequent upon legal action by a group of proprietors who, unlike Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne, were demoted. In late 2007 this decision was subsequently overturned, so today Grand Corbin-Despagne's achievements are suitably acknowledged by the estate's new ranking.
The
history of Grand Corbin-Despagne extends as far back as 1655, when local records
describe the baptism of a child born to Pierre Despagne and his wife Lyson
Raynaud. It was over a century later, however, that the family become
inextricably linked with this property. The Corbin estate had in the Middle Ages
been a very considerable size, and having belonged to the Black Prince it was
graced with buildings dating from at least the 14th Century, and in the near
proximity only Figeac was a more significant estate. Its division led to the
proliferation of St Emilion estates which include Corbin in the title, of which
there are at least five, including Grand Corbin-Despagne. Louis Despagne,
born in 1789, settled in the region near his grandfather's land which he tended
as a share-cropper in 1812, subsequently establishing the family vineyard on
what was once part of the Corbin estate. Louis died in 1845 and the domaine
came to his son, who in 1852 enlarged the property considerably with the
purchase of another 20 hectares of vines, bringing the size of the estate to the
26 hectares which it covers today. By this time the estate was already known as
Grand Corbin-Despagne,
and the wines were of good quality, as evinced by the armfuls of awards
picked up at various exhibitions in Paris around the turn of the century. With
the passing of time the estate was passed down to the next generation, and
throughout much of the 20th Century it has been Paul Despagne who has been in
charge; now, at the beginning of the next century, it is his descendants who run
the property. Although there a number of family members involved, François Despagne (above) heads the team. It was with François that I tasted
most of the wines
documented below.
The vineyards lie to the northeast of the more desirable gravel sites which
play host to Figeac and
Cheval-Blanc, and some distance away from the
limestone plateau and côtes where most of the Premier Grand Cru Classé estates are
located. Outside of these two areas the soils are often dominated by alluvial
sand, and Grand Corbin-Despagne is no exception, although there are some
elements of clay and also some crasse de fer, pockets of iron-rich soils. The vines
average about 40 years of age, and are as you might expect dominated by Merlot
which accounts for 75% of the vineyard, with 24% Cabernet Franc and a meagre 1%
of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. The planting density is the usual 6000
vines/ha. Harvesting is done by hand, allowing sorting in the vineyard, but the
fruit is sorted again as it enters the winery. Fermentation is
temperature-controlled in stainless steel vats installed in 1978, with a
maceration of up to 30 days, before going into oak (50% new each vintage) for
between 12 and 18 months. Before bottling there is an egg white fining. There
are two wines that result, the grand vin Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne,
which is largely Merlot reflecting the vineyard, ranging from 75% up to 87%,
with the remainder Cabernet Franc. There may also be a little Cabernet Sauvignon
included. The second wine is Petit Corbin-Despagne, essentially a young
vines cuvée, comprising 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc. This wine sees no
oak. All told the production amounts to between 6500 and 8500 cases.
Having tasted some recent vintages, representing both Grand Cru and Grand Cru Classé eras, it is clear that the wines here are of good quality. I do not think that the property will ever climb any higher than Grand Cru Classé in the local classification as the terroir is against it, but nevertheless the wines are solid and well made, with a very gentle, supple, elegant style. They are certainly attractive and representative examples of the appellation, worth seeking out and buying provided the price is right. (1/1/04, updated 6/12/07)
Contact details:
Address: 33330 St Emilion
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 51 08 38
Fax +33 (0) 5 57 51 29 18
Internet:
www.grand-corbin-despagne.com
Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne - Tasting Notes
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stockists:
Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne (St Emilion) 2004: A soft and gentle
nature here, with stylish but not exuberant fruit. After a soft introduction it
shows a rather firm midpalate, but with a rounded and reserved composition.
Underneath there is a gentle layer of tannins, and also fresh acidity. I think
this will develop into a rather svelte style of wine. Good. 16+/20 (November 2007)
Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne (St Emilion) 2003: A gentle nose here,
not so expressive, perhaps a little closed, which is a touch surprising for 2003
- most other wines of the vintage I have tasted recently have been quite open
for business. Hard and muscular in character, but not fleshy, it has a tight and
compact style with a layer of tannins beneath. Showing a ripe structure on the
finish. An altogether, nicely composed wine considering the vintage, so in that
respect it is good. 16+/20 (November 2007)
Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne (St Emilion) 2002: There is a rather
woody character to the fruit on the nose here, but with a good depth taking into
account the vintage. Nicely textured, perhaps rather leaner than other vintages,
but the wine still shows a rounded, complete and harmonious style which is
typical of Grand Corbin-Despagne. Good fruit too, with a decent layer of tannins
below. Good. 15.5+/20 (November 2007)
Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne (St Emilion) 2002: A barrel sample, due
for bottling in May 2004. Exotic Asian spice and a glossy black fruit nose. Good
weight on the palate, with a fine, balanced texture. Ripe, spicy tannins in the
background. Lovely structure. Needs five to six years plus in the cellar.
15.5/20 (November 2003)
Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne (St Emilion) 2001: This seems rather
closed down on the nose at present, but is more open and relaxed on the palate.
It is softly textured, perhaps a touch more creamy than some older vintages,
with a nice depth. Quite a harmonious composition. Fine substance and fruit, and
more open on the finish than some of the other wines. Nicely done. 16.5+/20 (November 2007)
Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne (St Emilion) 2001: There is lovely
character here; dark fruits with roasted elements and spicy fruitcake. Lovely
elegance on the palate, very balanced with correct acidity. There's a nice
tannic backbone, especially on the finish, but this is another surprisingly
approachable wine. Needs four to five years in the cellar. 16.5+/20 (November
2003)
Petit Corbin-Despagne (St Emilion) 2001: François Despagne tells me
that this is a blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc, and sees no
wood. A dark, spicy fruit cake nose. Lots of character here. Good weight on the
palate, with fair texture and plenty of tannin. Acidity on the low side.
Impressive for a petit vin. 15/20 (November 2003)
Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne (St Emilion) 2000: A really good depth
of colour here, and a wealth of fruit on the open and welcoming nose. On the
palate it has texture, substance and a lovely composition of fruit. This is a
nicely harmonious style, but underneath there is also a little richness and
depth, more than in other vintages of Grand Corbin Despagne. Needs cellaring for
a few years yet. 17+/20 (November 2007)
Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne (St Emilion) 2000: Merlot 78%, Cabernet
Sauvignon 1%, Cabernet Franc 21%. An excellent, dark, rich fruit nose. Despite
this there is stylish balance on the palate, with slightly creamy fruit. Correct
acidity, a touch on the low side, and plenty of tannin. Surprisingly
approachable now but may close down yet. Drink probably five to ten years from
now. 17+/20 (November 2003)
Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne (St Emilion) 1999: This has a nice and evocative character on the nose, with an open and
stylish presence. The palate is supple, with red, curranty fruit over a rounded
and rather soft body, which hides nicely a layer of ripe, almost gritty tannins
beneath. A good acidic backbone, and a full character. This, for the vintage, is
really rather nice, and is certainly drinking now. 16.5+/20 (November 2007)
Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne (St Emilion) 1999: Merlot 81%, Cabernet
Franc 19%. Less flattering than the 1998 on the nose. Just some restrained
fruit. Lean black fruit with spice on the palate, with some nice aromatic
elements. There's still some tannin, but fairly low acidity. A lighter style
which should drink sooner than the 1998. Give it three years. 16.5+/20 (November
2003)
Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne (St Emilion) 1998: Merlot 78%, Cabernet Sauvignon 1%, Cabernet
Franc 21%. Dark fruits, spice and nuts on the nose. Rich, almost creamy fruits,
with a lovely balanced palate. Delicious nut edge to the fruit. Still some
tannin there - needs three to four years. 16.5+/20 (November 2003)
Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne (St Emilion) 1997: Merlot 87%, Cabernet Franc 13%. A difficult
vintage with half the crop deselected. An evolving nose. Mature pencil lead and
spice. Some fat and texture on the palate. Balanced, although still a little
tannin that needs to resolve. Approachable now, but may improve over the next
year or two (at most). 15+/20 (November 2003)
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