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Château Durfort-Vivens
The history of Durfort-Vivens stretches back as far as the 12th century, when a property was first established here by the Durfort de Duras family. The Duras descendents held the seat for seven centuries, during which time they held great influence in the region, owning not only this château but also nearby Château Lamothe, now more commonly known as Château Margaux. In 1824, however, it was purchased by Monsieur de Vivens and the château was renamed Durfort-Vivens, and the estate was still in the ownership of the Vivens family when it was ranked as one of the five Margaux deuxièmes crus in the 1855 classification, drawn up for the Exposition Universelle de Paris, at the request of Emperor Napoleon III, by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce. The passage of the 20th century saw several more changes of ownership, with Durfort-Vivens first passing through the hands of some local négociants before its purchase by the Lurton family, major shareholders of Château Margaux. The wine was in fact made at Margaux, which lies adjacent to the Durfort-Vivens vineyards, until Lucien Lurton, who also owned Brane-Cantenac, took full control of Durfort-Vivens in 1961. Today the property remains in the hands of the Lurton family, who run a number of Bordeaux châteaux including Brane-Cantenac and Climens. Gonzague Lurton left his job in banking to take on the role of manager at Durfort-Vivens in 1992 when Lucien divided his estates between his children, a process that also saw Lucien's other son, Henri, take over at Brane-Cantenac. This may have been a crucial factor in the continuing development of this property, as Gonzague went on to construct a new chai and also to install new wooden and cement fermentation vats with temperature control in 1995 and 1996. These are crucial developments if the wines are to reach the standards expected of today's markets and consumers.
The Durfort-Vivens vineyards comprise 32 hectares in all, on the typical
gravelly soils of Margaux which date from the Quaternary period. Planting
density is 6666 vines/ha, and Cabernet Sauvignon dominates, accounting for 70%
of the vineyard, in keeping with that at other properties in Margaux. The
remainder is 20% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, and yields are typically 45
hl/ha. Harvest is by hand, and the subsequent vinification is temperature
controlled, as mentioned above, utilising a mixture of vat materials, including
cement, wood and stainless steel. Subsequently the wine goes into barriques
of which 40% are new each year. Gonzague Lurton has a direct hand in the
winemaking, along with oenologists Yves Glories and Jacques Boissenot. The
grand vin is Château Durfort-Vivens. The second wine was Domaine
de Cure-Bourse, but rejected fruit now goes into Segond de Durfort
and Relais de Durfort. More recent vintages have seen the introduction of
a new label, Vivens Rouge.
One aspect of this wine which has come in for criticism from several quarters in the past is the high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon, which has been as high as 82%. Some feel the wines would benefit from even less Cabernet Sauvignon - a number of nearby châteaux use as little as 40%. Having tasted an assortment of vintages over the years, I feel the wines lag behind what I would expect of a deuxième cru château. The 2004 was particularly good, from a vintage where the wines of Margaux seemed strong and unusually consistent across the board when I tasted them once in bottle, in 2006. I must confess I was a little taken aback by how attractive I found the wine, and I hope it signals bigger and better things from Durfort-Vivens. Looking back over previous vintages, such as the 2003, 2001, 1999, 1998 and 1995, I see a string of good wines, middle weights although with some notes of elegance and typicité here and there. In many cases they are nice wines. But I can not shake off the feeling that, put simply, Durfort-Vivens could do better. (3/2/04, updated 10/4/07)
Contact details:
Address: Château Durfort-Vivens, 33460 Margaux
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 88 31 02
Fax: +33 (0) 5 57 88 60 60
Internet:
www.durfort-vivens.com
GPS: 45.039955, -0.674222
Château Durfort-Vivens - Tasting Notes
Château Durfort-Vivens
(Margaux) 2010: The assemblage here is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26%
Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc. This wine has quite a dark, glossy and polished
hue. Very perfumed black fruits on the nose here, with lots of rich cherry
aromas, and a dense compote of rich and sweet red fruits, brightly presented but
laced also with notes of liquorice and toffee all suggestive of a slathering of
oak. Rather an alcoholic, whisky mash feel to the palate, residual fermentation
characters rather than anything more sinister I think. But it does have a rather
shell-like feel, sitting around a central core of fruit. There is a nice extract
to it in the finish, showing rather savoury fruit elements here, but I can't get
away from that character in the mouth. Difficult to call, this one. From my
Bordeaux 2010 primeur assessment.
15.5-16.5?/20 (April 2011)
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Château Durfort-Vivens (Margaux) 2009:
The blend this year is Cabernet Sauvignon 74%, Merlot 21%and Cabernet Franc 5%.
There is rather a restrained nose here, with chewy fruit, fairly dark and reticent
in character. A fairly bold substance, just a gentle touch of warmth
on the palate, but with a chalky edge to the fruit. Plenty of grip, good
acid core too, with a firm tannin-infused finish. Good. From my
2009 Bordeaux
primeur assessment. 16-17+/20 (March 2010)
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Château Durfort-Vivens (Margaux) 2008:
An attractive perfume on the nose here, all violets and gravel, crunchy and
fresh. The palate is soft and lacking in vigour although underneath the lean and
slightly oily substance there is a strong seam of grippy tannins, and there is
good acidity also. If this comes together nicely on the palate this may make for
an appealing bottle of wine as the aromatic profile is really quite attractive and very
typical of old-school Margaux. From a tasting of
2008 Bordeaux
at two years of age. 15.5+/20 (October 2010)
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Château Durfort-Vivens (Margaux) 2008: Rather brighter fruit on the
nose than some, with a pure and dense cherry fruit....with just a hint of
animal. Purity returns on the palate, with a plum skin and cherry stone
character, and a minerally, polished, elegant midpalate. Persistent, ripe,
attractive, with a little length. One of the better wines for sure. From my 2008 Bordeaux
primeur assessment. 16.5-17.5+/20 (April 2009)
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Château Durfort-Vivens (Margaux) 2007: A very interesting nose here, again displaying a darker array of fruits than
some other wines, and with some exotic spices on the side. Polished, slightly
hard outer shell, with red-black fruit within, alongside some spiced tannins and
a similarly spicy finish. Well composed, with some attractive points. From a
tasting of
2007 Bordeaux
at two years of age. 14.5+/20 (October 2009)
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Château Durfort-Vivens (Margaux) 2007:
There are aromas of rich fruit and some new oak here. Cool on entry, quite
stylish, with bright red-black fruits. This sample has a dry midpalate
extraction, with a drying, smoky, dark fruit finish. It certainly has the necessary
structure to develop. From my
2007 Bordeaux
en primeur assessment. 14.5-15.5+/20 (April 2008)
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Château Durfort-Vivens (Margaux) 2006:
Quite a darker style than Brane-Cantenac. The palate is firm and well composed.
Rather a solid structure but it does give the wine definition at least. Then a
slightly lean fruit character at its core, ripe chalky fruits, lots of grip in
fact, a little disparate but this could come together and age nicely. Dense
fruit, firm rather than lifted or expressive. Decent stuff. From a 2006 Bordeaux tasting
at four years of age. 15+/20 (November
2010)
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Château Durfort-Vivens (Margaux) 2006: Quite a depth of fruit on the nose here at first,
perfume, stony character quite true to the commune. Full, rounded, plump palate,
but a gentle texture, in general a middleweight. Rather firmer on the finish,
where there are notes of liquorice. Peppery tannin. Overall, an unusual style.
From my 2006 Bordeaux
assessment. 14.5-15.5/20 (April 2007)
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Château Durfort-Vivens (Margaux) 2005:
This wine is perhaps a little closed down on the nose, showing little in the way
of fruit character on the day, although there is some honeyed oak apparent. It
also seems a little spirity - I wonder what the alcohol content is?
Nevertheless, it has a lovely presence on the palate, with a fresh redcurrant,
cherry and cranberry style. The style is supple, soft, rounded, and overall it
is quite nicely put together, although it misses the vigour present in some
other wines. From my tasting of
2005 Bordeaux at two
years of age. 16+/20 (October 2007)
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Château Durfort-Vivens (Margaux) 2004:
A fine, exuberant and yet precisely defined nose with a lovely perfume; this
seems surprisingly good. No disappointment on the palate either, where there is
a very attractive, ripe style with a beautifully integrated tannin structure.
Perfumed, minerally, with fine acidity. This is very well put together. A real
success for Durfort-Vivens in this vintage. From my 2004 Bordeaux
assessment. 17.5+/20 (October 2006)
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Vivens Rouge (Margaux) 2004: A moderate concentration of colour.
Simply quite light on entry, although this builds to a supple creaminess through
the midpalate. It feels rather forced though, and lacks concentration of fruit.
This is decent at best, but seems like a good effort for a second wine. 14/20 (February 2007)
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Château Durfort-Vivens (Margaux) 2003: A suggestion of maturity on
examination; are the 2003s maturing more quickly than other vintages?
Nevertheless, this is another wine showing very well today. Some good typicité
on the nose, this has lost the chocolate and berry fruit it showed in 2005, and
now has more attractive, gravelly features with some restrained fruit. This
doesn't seem typical of the vintage. Nice texture and weight, supple, quite
rounded and soft, with just a soft tannic coating at the finish. In this respect
it is atypical, as it is missing the huge wall of tannins other wines possess,
but the acidity is still very low. A light, low-acid but firm wine, but a better
showing than last time. 15.5/20 (February 2007)
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Château Durfort-Vivens (Margaux) 2003: Creamy-berry fruit and white chocolate
nose. Lithe, supple, creamy edge to the attack, but completely loses it all
through the midpalate. Lacks presence, flavour, style and character. Although
the tannins are, in its favour, not over done. But not a success. From my
2003 Bordeaux
assessment. 15/20 (October 2005)
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Château Durfort-Vivens (Margaux) 2001:
More dark, dense fruit here, over a note of gravel, and the smoky
influence of oak which will settle with time. Unsurprisingly at this age
the palate is very primary, with pure blackcurrant fruit, with red fruit
and beetroot nuances. Nevertheless there is plenty of style and
structure here, with a backbone of ripe, approachable tannins. I think
this has the edge over the 1999. Should be drinking well soon although it may
close down first. 15.5+/20 (November 2003)
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Relais de Durfort (Margaux) 2001: Red fruits with a confected
note on the nose. Pleasant raspberry fruit on the palate, although
confected again. Lightweight, with little structure. 13.5/20 (November 2003)
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Château Durfort-Vivens (Margaux) 1999:
This has dense, smoky power on the nose. Very clean on the palate, with plenty
of firm, glossy black fruits and a good tannic structure. Exotic notes of
beetroot and violet perfume, with gravelly notes too. Good typicity for Margaux
fans. This should be a lovely wine in time. 15.5+/20 (November 2003)
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Château Durfort-Vivens (Margaux) 1998: A moderate, attractive depth of
colour. A fine nose, with a gravelly, floral perfume, and lots of Margaux
typicité. Very fresh, attractive, gentle palate, with nicely integrated tannins.
Very typical, good style, light but supple and attractive. Very much a wine of
the appellation (of the terroir, perhaps?). Quite ready now on the basis
of this tasting. 16.5/20 (February 2007)
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Château Durfort-Vivens (Margaux) 1995:
Initially there is a wealth of dark, dense fruit on the nose, but it
opens out in the glass to give something more recognisable as claret.
Showing some maturity, with some attractive perfume as well. Medium
weight on the palate. Good structure. Overall quite classically styled.
Like many other 1995s it is still somewhat angular at present and needs
another year or two in bottle. 15.5+/20 (November 2003)
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Château Durfort-Vivens (Margaux) 1988: A dense purple hue. Quite a stunning,
elegant, mature claret nose. The palate doesn't
disappoint, with a well rounded mouthfeel and smooth
texture. Soft tannins, balancing acidity, and soft
elegant fruit. Finishes well, if anything a little short
on the finish. From a Bordeaux
1988 blind horizontal tasting. 16.5/20 (May 2000)
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