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D'Arenberg

The d’Arenberg Winery has its roots in 1912, when Joseph Osborn purchased Milton Vineyards in McLaren Vale. The business has remained in the family ever since, at first selling grapes to local wineries, but by 1928 they were vinifying the harvest themselves, following the construction of their own winery and cellars. It was the third generation, however, in the form of Francis d’Arenberg Osborn, who really made his mark on the world of wine. Under Francis’ leadership the business began to produce wines which consistently picked up awards and medals in both Australian and international wine shows. The fourth generation of the family, Chester d’Arenberg Osborn, is now chief winemaker, following in the footsteps of his father, who now fills the role of managing director.

Chester d'Arenberg Osborn The fourth generation of the family, Chester d’Arenberg Osborn, is now chief winemaker, following in the footsteps of his father, who now fills the role of managing director.

The d’Arenberg wines are produced from the fruit of two McLaren Vale vineyards, although this is complimented by the purchase of a large amount of fruit from local growers. The d’Arenberg vineyards are either dry farmed or minimally drip irrigated, with cover crops and regular manuring to improve the health of the soil. The family claim to use only minimal amounts of chemical sprays. For the top wines, vineyard practices such as pruning and harvesting are mostly performed by hand, although mechanical methods are employed for the lesser wines. This commitment to quality continues into the winery, where there is rigorous selection, gentle basket pressing and fermentation in oak for some wines.

The top cuvée at d'Arenberg is undoubtedly The Dead Arm, a 100% Shiraz. Dead Arm is an old name for "Eutypa dieback", a vine disease caused by the fungus Eutypa lata. The fungal infection causes cankers around old pruning wounds, resulting in stunted growth in those shoots above the infected area. Eventually this part of the vine fails to produce any new growth, whereas the unaffected parts of the vine continue to grow and bear fruit. Hence the vine appears to have a "dead arm". This cuvée is followed closely by Coppermine Road, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and Ironstone Pressings, a blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvèdre.

Then come a huge range of wines of which I will not list all. Notable bottlings, however, include the Laughing Magpie, a Côte-Rôtie inspired blend of Syrah and Viognier, and the Galvo Garage, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Excellent value can be found in the form of the Custodian Grenache, Twenty-Eight Road Mourvèdre, Footbolt Shiraz, Olive Grove Chardonnay, Noble Riesling and Vintage Fortified Shiraz. (19/2/02)

Contact details:
Address: PO Box 195, Osborn Road, McLaren Vale, South Australia 5171
Telephone: +61 (0) 8 8323 8206
Fax: +61 (0) 8 8323 8423
Internet: www.darenberg.com.au

D'Arenberg - Tasting Notes

Tasted in December 2007. Click to locate stockists:

D'Arenberg Ironstone Pressings (McLaren Vale) 1997: A more mature colour than on my last tasting, which was five years ago. The nose certainly has interest - roasted meats and liquorice, although with a strange, confected, cough-candy aroma. The fruit has a baked, macerated edge to it (storage has been impeccable) and there is a slightly hot, feral, gamey, earthy, old coffee-ground character too. Soft and creamy on the palate, a touch blowsy perhaps, rather velvety in texture though, broad, big and ripe. There are firm acids behind it all, and a hard layer of tannins too. Like the nose, the palate shows a sweet and meaty character. This is fascinating too taste, although it is not a wine I am particularly enjoying. It doesn't seem to have come together in a very harmonious fashion; in fact, it seems to be all over the place. A rather reserved score. From a tasting of the 1997 Vintage at ten years of age. 15?/20

D'Arenberg Coppermine Road (McLaren Vale) 1997: This wine has a dark, red-black core, with a cherry red rim. The nose has some very attractive mature Cabernet characteristics, but overlaid with notes of roasted meat, minty-sweet macerated fruit, rather high-toned liquorice character and beefy, coffee-ground notes again. There seem to be some stylistic similarities with the Ironstone Pressings which are dominating the intrinsic Cabernet elements that I would have expected to find. It is rich but softly composed on the palate, creamy but with some firm tannins in the midpalate and finish. It is a touch spirity and hot. Again, storage has been impeccable. A broad, huge, feral, minty fruit profile. Again, I don't think this wine has lived up to the potential I thought I saw five years ago. From a tasting of the 1997 Vintage at ten years of age. 15.5/20

D'Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz (McLaren Vale) 1997: And so to the famed Dead Arm. A very dark wine, and on the nose aromas of hot, dry, baked blueberries. It is rather port-like in character I think, and again I find rather meaty, feral characteristics, together with a spirity side. Rich, creamy, viscous even on the palate, laden with coffee flavour, a characteristic which has marked all three of these wines. But also it seems a little hot to me, and disjointed, with rather brutal acidity, culminating in a really bitter, acid-dominated finish. The midpalate shows some nice cinnamon touches, but there is a hollowness to it. Still a lot of tannin floating about, but I can't be convinced that this wine is going anywhere. However successful it was in its youth (and I certainly wrote about all three of these wines in a positive fashion), it seems a mess right now. Is it just my palate, or has age really down these three no favours? From a tasting of the 1997 Vintage at ten years of age. 14/20

Tasted in March 2007:

D'Arenberg d'Arry's Original Shiraz Grenache (Australia) 2004: Very dark, forward, obvious, lifted nose, but still laden with fruits. Sweet. Very richly and abundant in flavour, with dark, tarry fruit. Rather grippy. This achieves a better balance than the previous wine, there is plenty of ripe tannin and some acidity too. This will please many I think. Not quite my style though. From a Wine Society tasting. 14.5/20

Tasted in October 2002:

D'Arenberg White Ochre (South Australia) 2001: Predominantly Riesling but with a good dollop of interest from other white grapes. A fresh and vibrant nose, full of pears, stone fruit and a touch of pineapple. Rounded palate, fresh flavours, good acidity. Tasted at Pod. Good.

Tasted in February 2002:

D'Arenberg Red Ochre (South Australia) 1998: Sweet, dusty, chewy cherry fruit on the nose, with a touch of liquorice. Simple chewy cherry fruit on the palate, which is quite firm with plenty of alcohol. A touch vegetal and earthy. Great value wine. Good.

D'Arenberg Ironstone Pressings (McLaren Vale) 1998: This is a richly coloured red-purple wine. Brimming with blueberry fruit on the nose, backed up by chocolate and liquorice aromas, smoke and charcoal, and some new oak. The palate is true to form, with powerful blueberry and blackberry fruit, charcoal, smoke and spicy vanillin oak, and great structure. There are plenty of tannins, and although approachable now it will be better in a few more years. A strong backbone of acidity will keep it going. It finishes with a real punch. Impressive length. Very good, excellent potential.

D'Arenberg Ironstone Pressings (McLaren Vale) 1997: A gorgeous red-purple hue, plainly full of life. The nose is very expressive, although still somewhat dominated by the liquorice and coconut aromas of American oak. Sitting with this, though, there are piles of ripe, black fruits, some black pepper. With just a little air the Mourvèdre shows its stuff, with some gamy, wild animal aromas developing. It has a brilliant weight, with a good tannic structure which shows through on the end palate. Ripe blueberry and blackberry fruits again, although the fruit is less prominent in this wine, and there is a harder, coke and charcoal character to the mouthfeel, particularly through the endpalate. This is fantastic, delicious stuff . Very good, excellent potential.

D'Arenberg Ironstone Pressings (McLaren Vale) 1996: It's interesting to note that this wine is a blend of just Shiraz and Grenache, whereas the two subsequent vintages tasted above also included some Mourvèdre in the encépagement. The wine has a good red-purple hue, with still no real sign of age. The nose has sweet, tarry and spicy fruit, with some roasted herb and smoking charcoal nuances. It's deliciously mouthfilling on the palate, with a lovely body of fruit, backed up by firm, hard but ripe tannins. There are notes of curry spices and more smoke, as well as just sufficient acidity. Like so many of these wines, a great structure. Very good.

D'Arenberg Coppermine Road (McLaren Vale) 1997: This deep red-purple wine assaults the senses with an aroma of minty cassis when first opened. Some aeration reveals some deeper nuances, of cigar box, cedar and pencil-shavings. At first tannins dominate through the mid and endpalate, and there's also quite prominent acidity. It's only medium bodied though, with quite subdued cassis fruit, hiding behind all that tannin. After a few hours in the decanter, however, this wine really begins to strut its stuff. The fruit takes on a classic cigar box and polished cabinet edge, and whilst the tannins remain they are matched by the mouthfilling texture which really fattens up, and the acidity, thankfully, settles. This wine has significant potential. If drinking now decant for six hours minimum. Even better, cellar for five years or more. Very good, excellent potential.

D'Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz (McLaren Vale) 1999: Deep red-purple. Wow, what a nose! An intense, powerful concentration of aromas, with chocolate, berries, spice and oak. There's a touch of eucalyptus and some smouldering charcoal. The palate is a combination of power and structure. A massive wine, there is a pile of meaty flavours and ripe fruit backed by some already integrating tannins and correct acidity. This is another wine which, whilst approachable now, should be kept by those that do not like such tannic reds. Very good.

D'Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz (McLaren Vale) 1998: Very deep, dark and purple-black. This is the least expressive wine of this trio, being very closed at the moment. There are some hard fruit aromas on the nose, but little else apparent. The palate has superb structure, with strong tannins and fine acidity in balance. There's plenty of texture, with hard, youthful fruit which should go the distance. Although not showing its best tonight, this wine has promise. I suspect five to ten years in the cellar would do it justice. Very good, probably excellent potential.

D'Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz (McLaren Vale) 1997: Another deeply coloured wine, with a wonderfully expressive nose. Macerated berry fruit, chocolate, black pepper and cinnamon spice aromas on the nose. The palate is loaded with fruit, with more spice and pepper. There are ripe, structural tannins, with correct, balanced acidity. Despite a rich, mouthfilling texture, this wine even has a touch of elegance, and holds my interest well. Great length. Keep for three to five years before trying again. Very good, excellent potential.

Tasted in December 2000:

D'Arenberg Broken Fishplate Sauvignon Blanc (McLaren Vale) 2000: Very pale yellow wine. A light and somewhat grassy nose. The palate has astringent white fruit, and I find it quite unattractive. Poor.

D'Arenberg Olive Grove Chardonnay (McLaren Vale) 1999: A nose dominated by oak, but with some tropical fruit. The palate, unsurprisingly, is similarly dominated, but the oak has a good, creamy edge, and there are some good tropical fruits and lemony acidity. A big and fat texture overall. Fair.

D'Arenberg The Other Side Chardonnay (McLaren Vale) 1998: This wine has much less oak, with more apparent tropical fruit and coconut on the nose. The palate seems soft, with some spice and coconut, but the acidity seems harsh. Doesn't seem good value to me. Fair.

D'Arenberg The Custodian Grenache (McLaren Vale) 1998: Nice red purple hue in the glass. Aromas of raspberry, liquorice, white pepper. The palate seems quite light, with red fruits and some chocolate. The white pepper hallmark of Grenache persists. An attractive wine, although not up to the quality of the 1996. Good.

D'Arenberg The Ironstone Pressings (McLaren Vale) 1998: A deep purple-black colour. An intense nose, full of rich black fruit and some sweet oak. The palate is big, with aggressive tannins, masses of black fruits, and good acidity. This needs a few years to fully harmonise, but should be lovely. Very good.

D'Arenberg The Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon (McLaren Vale) 1998: Another similarly dark wine. Intense black fruit with liquorice overtones on the nose. Again a fruit packed palate, with good acidity and big, aggressive tannins. Needs time, but like the Ironstone should be worth it. Very good.

D'Arenberg Vintage Fortified Shiraz (McLaren Vale) 1998: A deep, purple-black, glossy looking wine. The nose, like the 1997, has masses of New World fruit, together with a hint of oil of oranges. The texture is creamy, with berry fruits and lovely spices. Good acidity, loaded with tannins. Another wine just a little too young for drinking. Very good.

Tasted in August 2000:

D'Arenberg Footbolt McLaren Vale (South Australia) 1998: A lovely nose of fresh blackberries with a dollop of oak. The palate doesn't quite live up to the promise. Medium bodied, subdued fruit. 15/20

D'Arenberg Custodian Grenache McLaren Vale (South Australia) 1997: Very appealing nose of spicy black fruits. On the palate this wine has excellent structure, with opulent fruit, firm tannins and pleasant background acidity. Quite spicy, with a classic Grenache 'white pepper' aspect to the palate - more so than the 1996. Would buy this - would happily keep a year or three. 16/20

D'Arenberg d'Arry's Original McLaren Vale (South Australia) 1997: A more subtle, muted nose to this Shiraz-Grenache blend. A more subtle palate, with nicely integrated black fruit and oak. Hints of shiraz black pepper this time! Pleasant. 15/20

Tasted in May 2000:

D'Arenberg Olive Grove Chardonnay (McLaren Vale) 1997: A rich gold hue, with thin legs. An oak dominated nose, with some buttery-creamy notes. Pleasant weight on the palate. Loads of creamy vanilla, spice, toffee and fudge oak-derived notes, overpowering the tropical fruit flavours. Soft acidity. Good.

D'Arenberg Custodian Grenache (McLaren Vale) 1996: A moderate colour intensity, with thin oily legs. Has an attractive burgundy-red hue. The nose has earthy and ripe red/black fruit aromas predominating, but with peppery nuances, spicy oak, and musk aromas. The palate has good weight and almost opulent fruit. Well integrated oak, and the tannins and acidity are balanced beautifully. Some white pepper on the finish. Nice length. Good.

D'Arenberg Noble Riesling (McLaren Vale) 1997: A rich orange hue. The nose is predominantly quince jelly, and this is obviously a botrytised wine, as the label suggests. An unctuous palate, lacking in acidity somewhat, but with good botrytis character. The rich finish leads into a pleasant length. Drinking this over the course of a few days, however, it developed lovely honeyed, tangerine fruit characteristics. Good.

D'Arenberg Vintage Fortified Shiraz (McLaren Vale) 1997: An intense, inky purple hue. The nose initially gives off ripe blueberry aromas, followed by blackberry fruit with a hint of black pepper. There is good, wafty spirit, and then something unusual - oil of oranges, like a rich orange liqueur. On the palate upfront black fruit, with a rich, full-bodied palate and a well balanced structure. A hint of oil of oranges again, and lemony acidity. Nuances of leather and spice provide a port-like resemblance, but this is unmistakably New World - and delicious with it. Very good.