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Clos de la Coulée de Serrant
If there is a biodynamic hotspot in the Loire, this is it. Other top producers - Domaine Huet for example - have practised biodynamics for years, but none follow it so fervently as Nicolas Joly at Coulée de Serrant.
This close adherence to what some regard as an extreme method of viticulture
(agriculture in fact - the application of biodynamics is not limited to the
vine) seems at odds with Joly's previous employment as a high-flyer for the
Morgan Guaranty Trust, having previously graduated with an MBA from Columbia
University. Nicolas Joly returned to the family estate to help his mother, by that time a widow, in
1976. He started by going back to school, studying oenology in Bordeaux for two
years, before returning to take direct control of the vineyard and chai.
Things were to change at Coulée de Serrant, however, although Joly didn't at that time know it. The catalyst for this change was a book on biodynamic agriculture, by Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner, which Joly discovered in 1981. Nicolas Joly read the book on a skiing holiday and found it a life-changing experience. Within four years Coulée de Serrant was run on entirely biodynamic principles.
Nicolas Joly & Biodynamic Viticulture
For the uninitiated, biodynamics is essentially an extension of organic viticulture - but it is no small extension. Biodynamics is so much more than simple organic viticulture. Biodynamics recognises that wine is made in the vineyard, not the cellar, and that a vigneron must understand his soil before he can make great wine. Some of the core ideals of biodynamics involve enriching the vineyard and treating vineyard pests using methods that are 'in harmony with the vineyard'.
Those that practise biodynamics tell us that the application of intensive agricultural methods to a vineyard plot results in the death of soil micro-organisms. These micro-organisms keep the soil alive, and may have an important influence on the final wine. Followers therefore eschew herbicides, pesticides and fertilisers, although the use of Bordeaux mixture and sulphur is permitted. In addition, the soil may be enriched with manure. This may even be added in homeopathic quantities, having been diluted down many times. Nicolas Joly keeps a herd of rare Nantaise cattle for this very purpose.
Biodynamic vineyards are just as prone to pests such
as red spider mite and other bugs, snails, parasites and so on, as any other
vineyard. As pesticides are excluded, a popular choice of treatment is a plant infusion
sprayed on the vines. In fact when I visited Joly had just returned from
collecting plants in the hills, for the purpose of making such vine treatments.
Typical infusions used include nettle, camomile and dandelion, to name just a few. Other pests require more bizarre treatments. Joly's response to an infestation of rabbits was to burn a rabbit skin each year, the time of the burning determined by the alignment of the planets. The rabbits never returned - they obviously knew what was good for them. This treatment reveals one of the more unusual aspects of biodynamics - the importance of astrology.
Astrology is of great importance to those that practice biodynamic viticulture. As the sun passes through the various signs of the zodiac it is believed that it has a strong influence on plant growth and health. Water signs (Pisces, for instance) are favourable to vegetative growth, fire signs (Sagittarius, for instance) are favourable to growth of fruit, earth signs (eg. Capricorn) favour root growth - obviously - and air signs (eg. Gemini) favour flowers. Consequently the timing of routine vineyard and nursery practises such as planting out, pruning, weeding and so on are tailored to suit. The moon also has an influence on vineyard and cellar practises.
Working the vineyard 'in harmony with nature' is one thing. But some of Joly's beliefs are a little too much for even the most ardent follower of biodynamic principles. Nicolas Joly believes that the shape of the barrel is a strong influence on the developing wine - after all, it does strongly resemble the shape of an egg. His belief in the adverse effects of electrical pollution is another step too far for many.
If biodynamics is so strange, then why does it appeal to so many great wine
makers? It would seem that the reason is, whatever the mechanisms, biodynamics
works. Most producers move over in steps, committing only a small vineyard plot
initially. Impressed by the results - judged by the quality of the final wine -
producers move over entirely often within a few years. This is how
Zind-Humbrecht and Domaine Huet came to biodynamics, initial scepticism soon
giving way. Other high profile converts include Marcel Deiss (Jean-Michel
Deiss is a friend of
Claude Papin, another producer featured in this
Loire 2003 series), Bize-Leroy,
Chapoutier, Domaines Leflaive and Lafon. And there are many more.
Despite high prices, this estate has no trouble selling its wines - demand far outstrips supply. The estate produces several wines. There is a basic Savennières, sourced from 3 ha of vineyards including the Becherelle vineyard, as well as two examples of the Savennières crus Roches aux Moines and La Coulée de Serrant. These are the Savennières Roches aux Moines, from the Clos de la Bergerie, a 3 ha site and the Clos de la Coulée de Serrant, appellation Savennières Coulée de Serrant, a 7 ha clos considered by some to be one of France's great white wine vineyards. Both vineyards are situated in a small valley on the northern side of the Loire, and consist of schist, sandstone and granite. (14/10/03, updated 21/6/06)
Contact details:
Address: 49170, Savennières
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 72 22 32
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 72 28 68
Internet:
www.coulee-de-serrant.com
Clos de la Coulée de Serrant - Tasting Notes
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Nicolas Joly Savennières 2001: Fairly closed on the nose. Quite full bodied,
but giving little away on the palate. This will develop into a nice wine over
the next year or two. 15.5/20 (August 2003)
Clos de la Coulée de Serrant 2001: Again quite closed on the nose. Rich, more
structured, fuller on the palate. Like the basic Savennières this wine also needs
time. A glimpse of the pleasures to come is found on the finish, which fans out
to reveal a rich, warm array of flavours - freshly harvested straw or hay, with a suggestion of honey
richness. This bodes very well. 17.5+/20 (August 2003)
Nicolas Joly Savennières Becherelle 1998: Moderate depth of colour. A
powerful nose, crammed with mineral and cordite character, along with notes of
apple, honey, quince and fresh straw. Structured and balanced palate. Good grip
between plenty of warm straw and mineral flavour. Shows real balance through the
midpalate. Long, classy and displaying some elegance. A touch of toffee
richness, and a pleasingly persistent length. 17/20 (June 2004)
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