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Chapoutier

Chapoutier, like Delas, has a long history of wine production in the Rhone Valley. The two have both undergone something of a transformation in recent decades. At Delas there was a marked improvement in quality following the appointment of Jacques Grange as winemaker by parent firm Roederer. The family firm of Chapoutier underwent a similar shift in style and quality just a decade or two earlier.

Chapoutier predates Delas, having been established in 1808 by Polydor Chapoutier. The firm was passed from father to son and in the mid-twentieth century Max Chapoutier was at the helm. In 1977 he retired, and responsibility for managing the family business fell to his sons, Michel and Marc. At first little changed, but as time moved on the Chapoutier brothers realised that the world of wine was changing around them; consumers wanted better quality, and they would pay for it. Michel and Marc Chapoutier grabbed the bull by the horns. Marc continued to manage the business and distribution, whereas Michel took on the responsibility for the vineyards and cellar.

The huge shift in quality that came about is largely attributed to Michel. As is the case with many top winemakers Michel Chapoutier believes that great wine is made in the vineyard, not in the cellar, and so it is here that some of the most dramatic changes were made. Chapoutier favours low yields, and eschew the use of cultured yeasts. Most significantly, the domaine subsequently went entirely biodynamic. In the cellar, the handling of grapes was altered, with some cuvées undergoing 100% destemming, early temperature control during fermentation, long cuvaison and separate vinification according to terroir. The press wine - frequently a source of harsh tannins - is not used. In order to make the whites more approachable in their youth aliquots of each wine undergo separate vinifications with one third in barrel, enamel and inox vats.Most importantly, the Chapoutier put an end to the excessive fining and filtration previously employed, and the top cuvées are now bottled without any fining or filtration at all. And for many appellations Chapoutier introduced super-cuvées, from selected parcels of old vines, some of which are of extremely high quality. Achieving this level of quality wasn't something they managed alone, however, as there was much input from none other than Jacques Grange, he who was later to be instrumental in reversing the fortunes of Delas Freres.

Overall, the Chapoutier style is intended to be approachable young, but with the structure to age. One aspect of the Chapoutier style that has come in for criticism is their use of oak. Michel in fact reduced the period of ageing in oak from two years to eighteen months, but of the barrels used up to one third are new, which can make for a very oaky impact on the wine. Ihave spotted Chapoutier wines in blind tastings purely based on the amount of unintegrated new wood dominating both the nose and palate. Although this might be acceptable in precocious youth, I have also found this in more mature cuvées at an age where I would have expected the oak to have integrated, and it is my personal feeling that Chapoutier should reign in their use of oak somewhat.

Chapoutier owns plots that occupy a significant proportion of the hill of Hermitage, in a number of vineyards, including Les Bessards, Greffieux, Chapelle, Méal, Muret and Chante-Alouette. From these plots come a number of red and white Hermitage cuvées. The whites can be fabulous and include Chante-Alouette, l'Ermite, Le Méal and De l'Oree. The red cuvées include Pavillon, La Sizeranne, l'Ermite, Le Méal and a young vines cuvée Mûre de Larnage. There is also a Vin de Paille - a sweet wine made from dried grapes. In addition Chapoutier owns vines in Cote Rotie - source of La Mordorée and Les Bécasses, Crozes Hermitage - source of the excellent Les Varoniéres as well as Les Meysonniers, St Joseph - source of red and white Les Granits cuvées. Most other wines of the northern Rhone are made from purchased fruit. Outside the northern Rhone, Chapoutier also own the Bernadine vineyard in Chateauneuf du Pape. Chapoutier also has a presence in Tricastin, Provence, Roussillon and even Australia in the form of Mount Benson wines. (10/2/04)

Contact details:
Address: 18 avenue du Docteur Paul Durand, 26600 Tain l'Hermitage
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 75 08 28 65
Fax: +33 (0) 4 75 08 81 70
Internet: www.chapoutier.com

Chapoutier - Tasting Notes

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Chapoutier Condrieu 2002: A delicate nose, with floral peach and apricot fruit. Quite a firm entry, with good acidity, but some slightly confected apricot fruit. Overall a lightweight wine. 15/20 (November 2003)

Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonniers 2001: This has sweet, liquorice-edged black fruits on the nose. The palate is a touch lean, but has some nicely rounded black fruits. Plenty of tannic structure but a hollow midpalate. Lacks flesh. Perhaps it will fatten out in bottle. 15+/20 (November 2003)

Chapoutier St Joseph Deschants 2001: There is more style here than in the Meysonniers. Black fruits on the nose. Elegant, balanced palate, rich in fruit, and with some good ripe tannins. Fleshy texture and moderate acidity. For drinking now, and enjoying. 15.5/20 (November 2003)

Chapoutier Hermitage Chante-Alouette 2000: A restrained nose, but some hints of honey richness. Good weight and grip on the palate, and plenty of honey and nut mineral flavours. This is a big, powerful wine, with plenty of potential for improvement. 16+/20 (November 2003)

Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie Les Becasses 2000: Not a lot on the nose here. Some roasted, red and black fruits on the palate, with elegance and balance. No great typicity though. Decent tannins, firm acidity. Needs three to five years. 16+/20 (November 2003)

Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie Les Becasses 2000: Moderate depth of colour. Buttery edged fruit on the nose. Good balance and fruit, pleasant texture, spicy tannins. No length. Tasted alongside wines of the subsequent vintage in a Northern Rhône 2001 tasting. 16+/20 (January 2003)

Chapoutier Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne 2000: Restrained nose. Lovely texture and weight on entry, leading into a creamy midpalate. Rich in dark black fruits and ripe tannins, with roasted nut flavours alongside the fruit. This has really fattened up since I tasted it in January 2003 when I hardly rated it at all. 16.5+/20 (November 2003)

Chapoutier Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne 2000: A better colour. Soft, round buttery fruit on the nose. On the palate, some aromatic fruit with a fair amount of tannin and acidity. Lightweight. Tasted alongside wines of the subsequent vintage in a Northern Rhône 2001 tasting. 15+/20 (January 2003)

Chapoutier Coteaux du Tricastin La Ciboise 2000: A dark, ruddy coloured wine, although not very dense. Very rustic nose, with some macerated plum fruit. Fairly light on the palate, maybe even a touch dilute. Has a low level of somewhat aggressive tannins and warming, spicy alcohol, both of which show on the finish. Seems a little disjointed. Nice roasted plummy fruit though. The colour suggests a little barrel ageing has occurred, unsurprisingly for Chapoutier, and this would be supported by the mouthfeel. 14/20 (May 2003)

Chapoutier Chateauneuf du Pape La Bernadine 2000: A sweet, fruity, Grenache influenced nose here. Good density and richness on the palate here, with some sweet, exotic roasted fruits, and a touch of liquorice. Rounded, appealing texture, soft acidity. 16+/20 (November 2003)

Chapoutier Domaine des Beates Coteaux d'Aix en Provence Terra d'Or 2000: Wonderful colour. Dark, black crunchy berry fruits with a cigar box edge. Full texture on the palate, rich in depth of flavour, balanced, with buttery oak. Sharp but correct acidity and moderate tannins. Tasted alongside wines of the subsequent vintage in a Southern Rhône 2001 tasting. 16.5+/20 (January 2003)

Chapoutier Domaine des Beates Coteaux d'Aix en Provence Terra d'Or 1999: Again a great colour. Closed on the nose I think, with just a hint of ripe fruit. Certainly closed on the palate - all texture and little in the way of fruit at present, but this will change. Plenty of spicy tannins. Some interest on the finish. Tasted alongside wines of the 2001 vintage in a Southern Rhône 2001 tasting. 16+/20 (January 2003)

Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Petite Ruche 1998: A vivacious purple colour, and an enticing nose of raspberry and blackberry fruit, with a suggestion of jammy richness. Not at all jammy on the palate however, rather good extract, a delicious mouthfeel, summer berry fruit flavours and sharp, fresh acidity. Finishes cleanly, the overall impression being greatly superior to that of the 1997. 15.5/20 (June 2000)

Chapoutier Chateauneuf du Pape La Bernadine Blanc 1998: An attractive white fruit nose, with a smoky edge. Round, moderately rich fruit. Fat texture, good weight. From a Portland Wine tasting. 15/20 (December 2000)

Chapoutier Condrieu 1997: A delightfully aromatic nose of peaches, pine kernels and lemon sherbet. A lean, elegant palate, with nutty complexities, apple and apricot fruit. Nicely balanced. From a Portland Wine tasting. 16.5/20 (December 2000)

Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Petite Ruche 1997: Decent red-purple colour. Nice nose of raspberry and blackberry fruit, and Syrah pepper. On the palate it is quite light, with some attractive fruit, pepper and spice. Soft tannins, acceptable balance. Pleasant, but uninspiring. 15/20 (June 2000)

Chapoutier St Joseph Deschants 1996: Nice colour. A smoky Grenache nose, with hints of tobacco and tar. Medium bodied, with good fruit, and obvious tannins. Needs more time. From a Portland Wine tasting. 15/20 (December 2000)

Chapoutier Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne 1996: An attractive, meaty-mature aroma from the bottle immediately it is opened, but when poured into the glass for tasting more awkward volatile notes dominate, with lots of ethyl acetate and vinyl-like aromas. But there is good Northern Rhône character, with a meaty, beefy note together with the sweet but restrained blackberry-bramble jelly note of Syrah fruit. The palate is rather firm, masculine perhaps, still a little abruptly presented rather than being a wine full of feminine wile. There is grip and structure, although perhaps with a rather transparent texture and lack of concentration of flavour, lending it a rather obvious backbone of alcohol. I think I am being very critical. Good wine, though. From a 1996 vintage ten years on tasting. 16+/20 (December 2006)

Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie 1996: Lovely bright red-purple hue. Good fruit on the nose, with an attractive, perfumed edge. A medium, elegant weight, some very soft but not quite fully integrated tannins, and good fruit. Really should be given more time. From a Portland Wine tasting. 16+/20 (December 2000)

Chapoutier Banyuls Vin Doux Naturel 1996: A cherry red hue, with a marked tawny colour belying a decent amount of wood ageing. Nose has spicy cloves, a medicinal note, some Grenache fruit and an orange-lemon hint of acidity. The palate has good body and more medicinal fruit. Perhaps a little lacking in acidity. Nice warming finish. 15/20 (June 2000)

Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Les Varonniers 1995: A dark, inky, serious looking wine. Fantastic, expressive nose, loaded with dark, smoky fruit. Seems a touch light on entry, but it quickly fattens up through the midpalate. A big, structured wine, well integrated and balanced, although there is a firmness to the acidity. A weight of smooth, glossy fruit. Approachable now but really needs time - three years in the cellar. Even more impressive than my last tasting. From a 1995 Northern Rhône blind tasting. 19/20 (March 2003)

Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Les Varonniers 1995: This is Chapoutier's second vintage of his top Crozes-Hermitage cuvée, the first being 1994. A red purple hue, with a massive amount of fruit, some toffee oak and smoky notes. A little austere on the palate, lots of toffee oak but with an equal abundance of fruit. Very tannic, it needs more time in bottle. From a Rhône blind tasting. 18.5+/20 (January 2001)

Chapoutier Cornas 1995: A moderately dark, clearly maturing wine. Notes of smoke and meat on the nose, with a cinder toffee character denoting the use of new oak. Quiet ungiving on the palate. Rock-hard tannins and firm acidity, although there is a healthy presence of sweet, ripe, creamy fruit. Hard, tannic, drying finish. It may come together quite well I feel. Needs three to five years in the cellar. From a 1995 Northern Rhône blind tasting. 16.5+/20 (March 2003)

Chapoutier Gigondas 1995: A good, mature-red hue. Not giving too much on the nose, although there is some herby fruit. On the palate at first it seems quite firm, but soon fleshes out to show a sweet, rounded texture. A good structure, with lovely ripe tannins underpinning the fruit. A sweet, herby flavour. A complete wine. From a 1995 Southern Rhône tasting. 16/20 (February 2004)

Chapoutier Chateauneuf du Pape La Bernadine 1995: Less dense than the previous wines. Roasted fruits on the nose. Balanced and even elegant on the palate. Sweet, burnt character on the palate. Possibly a little dilute though. Ready for drinking now. From a 1995 Southern Rhône tasting. 15/20 (February 2004)

Chapoutier Cornas 1994: A purple wine, also with some tawniness to the hue. This has toffee fruit and some floral notes on the nose. A big and full wine on the palate, with plenty of ripe tannins. A great texture is backed up by ripe black fruits, oak, and strong acidity. A lovely wine set to improve. From a 1994 Northern Rhône blind tasting. 17+/20 (February 2002)

Chapoutier 'Gauntley's of Nottingham Reserve' Cornas 1991: Here's another wine which isn't quite what it seems at first glance. Although it bears the easily recognisable Chapoutier label, and has clearly been bottled for UK merchant John Gauntley, I have it on authority that the wine was sourced solely from the vineyards of Louis Verset, brother to Noel. Acidic fruit on the nose, but with blackcurrant and small berry fruits. Somewhat fuller on entry, and quite well balanced. Smoky, mature, and full of ripe tannins and rich fruit. A creamy mouthfeel, but a shorter finish. From a 1991 Northern Rhône blind tasting. 17/20 (November 2002)

Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie 1990: This has a perfumed orange peel nose, perhaps a little more suggestive of Côte-Rôtie, although it develops some funky, vegetal notes in the glass. On the palate, however, this is another soft and rich wine which doesn't have the elegance of this appellation at its best. Soft tannins. From a 1990 Northern Rhône blind tasting. 14.5/20 (May 2001)

Chapoutier Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne 1990: A somewhat stinky, vegetal nose here. Then the stacks and stacks of new oak hit me.A big, austere wine, with lots of body but no hard tannins. Firm texture, lovely fruit. The oak doesn't seem to dominate the palate as it does the nose, but it is still there. From a 1990 Northern Rhône blind tasting. 16.5+/20 (May 2001)

Chapoutier Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne 1988: A fairly pale, red-tawny wine. There are some high toned aromas, matched by plentiful acidity on the palate. Nevertheless, it has a rounded, creamy texture, and a powerful tannic kick on the endpalate. Good fruit. From a 1988 Northern Rhône blind tasting. 16/20 (July 2002)

Chapoutier Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne 1988: A small amount of light sediment on decanting. A rich, red-purple hue, fading to an orange-pink rim, with no tawniness at all. The nose initially has smouldering charcoal and then grilled Cumberland sausages, but after five minutes in the glass gives off a blast of classic, Northern Rhone rubber. The nose then really closes up, leaving just rich, smoky fruit and a touch of that rubber. On the palate, sweet, spicy black fruit sits with black pepper and smoke, with fine, integrating tannins and balanced acidity. A rich mouthfeel. Finishes with a slightly hot, spicy note. Good length. Although ready for drinking, this wine is just reaching peak and will last years yet. 17/20 (December 2000)