Home > Producer Profiles > Rhône Profiles > Chapoutier

Chapoutier

At one time not that long ago Chapoutier, today one of the Rhône Valley's big-name négociants and most successful wine empires, was nothing more than a failing family enterprise, heavily in debt. That the business survived through to today is due solely to the efforts of one Chapoutier scion, Michel, who bought out all his siblings, cousins, maiden aunts and other family members who held shares. With full and complete control of the business (bringing, it should be noted, all the risk and responsibility as well as all the potential rewards) he then set to work turning things around. And not only did the business survive, it thrived. It must have been a tremendous uphill struggle for Michel at first, who was only 26 years old when he took the reins; but when I met him in May 2011 - sadly the first time I have come face-to-face with the man, now 47 years old - it was perhaps apparent why he succeeded. Indeed, why it was perhaps inevitable that he would succeed. If the energy emitted by Michel in one day could be harnessed and fed into France's national grid, the government could decommission one of their more aged nuclear power stations in an instant.

Those two days spent with Michel Chapoutier (pictured right) - and various other members of his team - were a roller coaster ride of vinous experiences. We started with a late-night open-air dinner atop the hill of Hermitage, at the property where Michel's grandfather, Marc, used to entertain his mistresses, the evening topped off by magnum after magnum of Champagne (Larmandier-Bernier, Pierre Gimonnet and Drappier, if I remember correctly), a favourite tipple for Michel. The drive back to our hotel included a high-speed diversion along the track at the foot of Les Greffieux, finishing up in Le Pavillon, within Les Bessards, towards the western end of the hill, as described in my Sélections Parcellaires tasting report. The following morning, as we recovered from the excesses of the evening before, we took a walk across the crest where the famous chapel sits on the hill of Hermitage. As I attempted to photograph the aerial ballet being performed by a helicopter that was spraying the vines, the pilot - of military training and highly skilled, I am reassured - decided to take a minute off from his work to buzz us, swooping down incredibly low upon us. As detailed in my Portfolio tasting report I did more than walk on the hill of Hermitage that day - I bit the dirt too, as I involuntarily dived for cover. Above, I summed up Michel's character with reference to his boundless energy and enthusiasm; the best way to sum up two days in his presence might be as a trip into Chapoutier World, a whirlwind roller coaster ride of fun, peppered with classic Chapoutierisms as he expounds his philosophies of viticulture and life in general.

Unfortunately such helicoptery shenanigans were the last straw for my trusty camera which always accompanies me on any wine visits I might make. Developing a mind of its own it seems, it decided that rather than continue on with me on my apparently foolhardy adventure deeper into Chapoutier World, including an extensive Portfolio tasting, it would instead hook up with some American tourists who had a much more sedate itinerary. Having momentarily laid it down in Chapoutier's cellar-door shop in Tain l'Hermitage, by the time I had realised it was missing it was already enjoying a cruise up the Rhône with its new friends, Bert and Ethel from Ohio, who had mistakenly picked it up when they were visiting the shop. Well done to the Chapoutier team for tracking my camera down; fortunately Bert and Ethel were honest sorts, who returned the camera to Chapoutier....but not until they had finished their cruise, of course. It was another two weeks before I was reunited with my Canon Ixus, and of course all the images that this profile contains.

Chapoutier: A Brief History

The history of Chapoutier begins many centuries ago, in the Ardeche where Michel claims to have his roots, his farming ancestors only coming down to settle in Tain l'Hermitage some time during the 18th century. This individual may well have been Polydor Chapoutier, or perhaps one of his immediate forebears; having taken up work with a local négociant Polydor worked his way up the ranks until in 1808 he was able, with the help of a partner, to buy out the firm. And so the Chapoutier family business was born. It was subsequently passed from father to son and in the mid-20th century it was Marc Chapoutier, Michel's grandfather, who was at the helm. Although he handed control to his son Max in 1977 Marc, the Chapoutier doyen, remained involved and interested right up until his death in 2000. For this reason he was on hand as the relationship between his son Max, and grandson, the redoubtable Michel, began to deteriorate. Things came to a head in the late 1980s when Michel, apparently no longer able to work alongside his father and perhaps only too aware of the aforementioned debts, announced he was leaving.

It was at this point that Marc stepped in to suggest, according to Michel, that Max should cede control of the family business to his son. This solution did not sit well with Michel, however, who foresaw decades of hard graft turning round a failing business only for too many family members, all shareholders, to profit without even lifting a finger. No, said Michel; he would only take over if he had complete autonomy, the sort that can only be ensured by complete and independent control. With his grandfather's blessing he bought out the rest of the family, and Michel became sole proprietor of the Chapoutier négociant house.

Michel's brother Marc, credited with work on the administrative side of the business in the early days, soon faded into obscurity. During the 1990s he left France for the West Indies, and although today he is back in France he is not actively involved in the wine business, and it is Michel who runs the family firm, with the support of his wife Corinne. Thus, these days Michel Chapoutier effectively is Chapoutier, a one man brand. Or should that be firebrand?

Michel Chapoutier

Indeed, in the early days Michel had a reputation for being something of a firebrand, and a difficult firebrand at that. Doubtless his attitude won him few friends, but it was probably this determined, no-nonsense approach that saved the business that he had taken on. If it wasn't for this particular character trait I suspect there would be no longer be a Chapoutier associated with the vines of Hermitage and the Rhône Valley. These days I feel he has this aspect of his character under control, I suspect because - in part at least - with an undeniable success story on his hands he has no further need to prove himself. Nevertheless, there is still a great depth to his character. Work hard and he will reward you; a trusted employee, for example, was the recipient of his own vineyard as a wedding gift. But he has, I suspect, no time for coasters and parasites, who no doubt receive their notice with little fanfare.

Michel lives in the countryside outside Tain l'Hermitage, in a house which he suggests - in a typical Chapoutierism - was perhaps the summer residence of Pontius Pilate. Despite having many thumbs in many different pies he still finds the time to run a small farm here, on which he raises livestock and poultry, and grows vegetables tended with the same biodynamic care he affords many of his vines. On the evening of our meal together, at his property atop the hill of Hermitage, much of the produce that we ate came from his own garden. Eggs and joints of meat appear regularly at the cellars, and thus the staff - who are served lunch by Michel's personal chef each day - reap the rewards of his farming bounty. But Michel can also reveal his more maverick tendencies through the donation of his produce, harking back to his more 'difficult' days perhaps. The Christmas bonus is often a bird suitable for the roasting tin, the only complication that it is delivered live.

Some employees despatch the bird themselves, although I am told some - especially the men - hand it over to their mothers to do the deed. Gifts of poultry have been very useful to Michel over the years it seems; once, many years ago, to combat the vicious upwards cycle of one-upmanship he was experiencing in the circle of posh children's birthday parties his daughter was attending in Tain l'Hermitage he sent along as a gift for the children a clutch of freshly-hatched, fluffy golden chicks. The children squealed with delight, whereas the parents - the French bourgeois equivalent of the 1980s yuppie with children too, perhaps - were horrified as their offspring cradled their new pets. Michel's objective had been achieved; he and his daughter were out of the party network.

The Vineyards and Wines

As we should expect with a Rhône négociant, Chapoutier produces wines both from his own vines, and also from purchased fruit. And it is also far from unexpected that the portfolio of vineyards should take in all of the leading Rhône appellations, from Côte-Rôtie and Cornas in the north, down to Gigondas and Châteauneuf du Pape in the south. What is unexpected, however, is the sheer quality of some of the owned vineyards, especially with reference to the hill of Hermitage. Today the Hermitage appellation boasts 131 hectares of vines, of which Michel Chapoutier owns a remarkable 34 hectares, the largest individual holding and one which reflects the lengthy association between the family and the hill behind the town, an association that stretches back to Polydor's day. Also unexpected is that Chapoutier has considerable ownership of more distant vineyards; since taking control, securing quality of the finished product through acquisition of vineyards has been a priority for Michel, so no wonder that some (but by no means all) of the lower level wines are of such good quality. But it is not just in St Peray and St Joseph that Michel has been buying land; he has also acquired footholds in Roussillon, with Domaine Bila-Haut, and in the Ardeche too. He has a propensity for granite terroirs, and seems to be interested wherever this particular rock type comes to the surface, whether the land be in Alsace, or even England. Michel revealed during our meeting in 2011 that he was in the process of buying land for planting in England, but the exact location is not yet to be revealed, I am afraid. And looking much further afield, he has several partnerships in Australia.

This mix of vines French and foreign, sometimes owned and sometimes yielding purchased fruit, complicated by differing methods of viticulture, biodynamic, organic and more conventional, makes for a very intricate matrix of wines. Without doubt the most relevant to this profile are those from the Rhône, and the most interesting (and I suspect closest to Michel's heart) come from the little hill of granite that sits behind Tain l'Hermitage. It seems right to deal with these wines in most detail, and I will do so within the Chapoutier quality framework, beginning with the Sélections Parcellaires.

One of Michel Chapoutier's triumphs has undoubtedly been the creation of the Sélections Parcellaires. Long has it been held by many - with some justification, it has to be said - that the greatest expression of Hermitage is a wine blended from any number of climats, each individual plot of vines bringing something unique to the finished wine. Some might bring power, some elegance, some structure, and others perfume. Nevertheless, very early on in his tenure Michel elected, alongside the continued production of his blended white and red cuvées of Hermitage (which come under the Prestige heading, below) to also bottle single-climat wines from five different Hermitage vineyards. The concept expanded and now also takes in wines from appellations along the length and breadth of the Rhône Valley.

As I have already discussed in my Sélections Parcellaires tasting report, there is one notable curiosity in the nomenclature here, as two of the appellations - Ermitage and Crozes-Ermitage - seem to have each lost an important consonant. According to Michel, this reflects the distinct and singular origin of the wines, each one sourced from a specific plot on the hill. Wines which are blended across many lieux-dits - as is often the case with Hermitage, for the reason given above - are eligible for Appellation Contrôlée Hermitage (the same is true for blending within Crozes-Hermitage). Whereas those sourced from a single lieu-dit - including names familiar to any committed drinker of these wines, such as Le Méal, Les Greffieux or Le Pavillon - apparently have the option to be Ermitage (or Crozes-Ermitage) instead.

The Ermitage Sélections Parcellaires open with L'Ermite (or L'Hermite as it is known outside Chapoutier World), a climat which runs roughly west-east behind Les Bessards and Le Méal, with just a finger projecting down the slope, interjecting between these two vineyards. L'Ermite is notable for the iconic chapel, owned by Jaboulet, which nestles among the vines near its western end, and like many of the vineyards it affords excellent views down to the Rhône (both shown below). The soils vary a little from one end to the other, with plenty of granite especially towards the west, more loess towards the east. Chapoutier has 3 hectares of Syrah and 0.5 hectares here, with fruit destined for Sélections Parcellaires cuvées, but it should also be noted that there are more vines here than this 3.5 hectares; another 3 hectares of Marsanne constitutes a large proportion of the blended Chante Alouette cuvée (see below). Move down-slope from L'Ermite and the chapel and we have Les Bessards, and Chapoutier's parcel within this climat is Le Pavillon, vines nearer the eastern end of the vineyard which encompass - as the name suggests - an old pavilion. The soils here are granitic, mirroring the granite of L'Ermite above, with a decomposed topsoil, and Chapoutier has 4 hectares of Syrah planted, giving rise to a single impressive red cuvée of grand, upright tannins carved by these granite soils, tannins which can carry this wine into a magnificent old age.

One of the grandest and best known climats is Le Méal, perhaps second only to Les Bessards in this respect. The Méal vines run along beneath L'Ermite, and at the summit if the vineyard sits the tiny house where I had dinner with Chapoutier. Here the soil is less granitic than in Pavillon, and marked more by rounded stones of glacial origin, and also clay. Chapoutier has a mix of Syrah and Marsanne here, 2.2 and 2 hectares respectively, and the style of wine is warmer and richer, but without the defining granitic tannins of Le Pavillon. Completing the quartet of climats at the western end of the hill is Les Greffieux, which as already indicated runs along the foot of the slopes, below Le Méal. The soils are variable, and here the granitic components are joined by areas of glacial deposit and even limestone. The vineyard is mostly red, and this is reflected in Chapoutier's holding which amounts to 3.5 hectares of Syrah, giving a brighter and more elegant style than other wines at this level.

Further to the east, on the other side of the ruisseau de Beaume which has carved a boundary valley down the slope of the hill, lies Les Murets, and within this climat are the vines which give rise to De L'Orée. The soils are largely glacial deposits, and combined with old vines planted in the 1920s the resulting wine has a warm yet structured richness. Finally, there is also Chapoutier's famous Vin de Paille, which is only produced in suitable vintages and is sourced from the vines in L'Ermite, including those that might otherwise give rise to the Chante Alouette cuvée. The fruit is dried for 45 days before pressing and fermentation in new oak.

As indicated the cuvées are unified not by terroir, which despite Michel's self-confessed preference for granite is in fact very varied, but by viticulture, which is at least organic or biodynamic in every case. This extends to the Sélections Parcellaires from beyond Hermitage. These include in the northern Rhône La Mordorée (Côte-Rôtie), sourced from 3 hectares of Syrah vines planted on both the Brune and Blonde slopes, the occasionally stunning Les Varonniers (Crozes-Ermitage), from 3.2 hectares of Syrah planted on granite, and Les Granits, in St Joseph. In the case of the latter it should come as no surprise to learn that the terroir here is granite again, and there are 2.5 hectares of Syrah and 2 hectares of Marsanne planted; the latter I have found particularly impressive. Finally, in the south, two cuvées are fashioned from the Châteauneuf du Pape vineyards, Barbe Rac and Croix de Bois, both being exclusively Grenache.

Whereas the Sélections Parcellaires are produced exclusively from Chapoutier-owned vines, at the Prestige level the wines are much more likely to be an assemblage of home-grown and purchased fruit, although it should be noted that in some cuvées the contribution from owned vines can be very significant, or indeed in one or two cases it accounts for the wine in its entirety.

Maintaining my focus on Hermitage, this being Chapoutier's forte I feel, there are two cuvées of particular interest here. The first is the well-known Monier de Sizeranne, the most widely distributed example of Hermitage from Chapoutier, and once Chapoutier's flagship wine. That was before the creation of the Sélections Parcellaires of course, so today it does not quite have the caché it once did, and effectively acts as Chapoutier's entry-level to this appellation. It is one of the few wines that comes entirely from Chapoutier vines rather than purchased fruit, not that surprising perhaps as the hill of Hermitage is long established, the land valuable and mostly in the hands of big name négociants such as Jaboulet (the next biggest after Chapoutier with 25 hectares), the Tain co-operative (who have about 20 hectares) or notable independent producers such as Chave (14 hectares) or Ferraton (4 hectares). There isn't a ready supply of fruit to be bought!

The volume produced is considerable, close to 30,000 bottles per annum, although this figure is down compared to the volume produced before the Sélections Parcellaires were separated out. The Chapoutier vines that yield the fruit for Monier de Sizeranne are largely in Les Bessards, with some in Les Greffieux and Le Méal. Vinification is in wood, with temperature control, followed by élevage in oak, of which one-third is renewed each year, for up to 20 months.

The white wines from Chapoutier are of superlative quality, in a number of cases the most striking examples of some northern Rhône appellations. They are all Marsanne, from the Sélections Parcellaires down to the workhorse wines, and this is just as true of Chante-Alouette as it is at any other level. The fruit is sourced from Marsanne vines in L'Hermite, with some from Les Murets where the Sélections Parcellaires De L'Orée also originates. The fruit is fermented in vat for two-thirds, in oak demi-muids for one-third, of which one-third is renewed each year (as for the red). The wine is bottled after about ten months, around the time of the next vintage. As with the Monier de Sizeranne, Chante-Alouette seems to have coped with the paring out of the Sélections Parcellaires fruit, and today seems to me to be a superlative example of white Hermitage.

Beyond these wines, quality can be more variable perhaps. Recent years have seen the acquisition of vineyards for the Condrieu Invitare, so there should be continued improvement here, although the style - in my limited experience - is influenced by oak and malolactic and will therefore not be to everybody's taste. The Côte-Rôtie Les Bécasses is largely produced from purchased fruit and includes a little Viognier, the Cornas Les Arènes is also mainly purchased fruit although Chapoutier does own a small plot near the St Pierre chapel. As for the Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonniers, this includes a large percentage of Chapoutier fruit (perhaps 30%) in the red, although the white is almost exclusively bought in.

I will not explore the other quality levels at Chapoutier in any great detail, suffice to say that the Tradition range includes a number of wines, representing a wide variety of Rhône appellations, made solely from purchased fruit. So this is the true négociant arm of the business, and it includes such widely distributed labels as the Crozes-Hermitage Petite Ruche, the St Joseph Deschants and the well-known Côtes du Rhône Belleruche. The discovery range includes a very admirable array of wines from Chapoutier's outpost in Roussillon, Domaine de Bila-Haut, and well as from the Ardeche and a number of different Australian ventures in partnership with Ron Laughton among others. The Specialities range is notable mainly for a number of digestifs, as well as Banyuls and Coufis, an interesting if rather intense straw wine from the Ardeche.

Viticulture and Vinification

With such a broad array of quality levels and styles many comments on how these wines are fashioned are likely to be little more than sweeping generalisations. Having said that, there are some generic truths worth expounding, both in relation to the vineyard and the cellar.

First up, in the vineyard, Michel is one of the great modern-day exponents of biodynamics. An early convert, his own vines are almost exclusively tended along biodynamic or at least organic lines. I find this approach admirable, nevertheless having sat at the foot of the hill of Hermitage, near the railway station, and watched the aforementioned helicopter spraying all manner of herbicides or pesticides over the vines beneath (the other major négociants - Jaboulet, Guigal and Delas - club together to pay for this service) I do wonder to myself just how valid claims of biodynamic viticulture are in this circumstance. Elsewhere, especially in Roussillon, the approach has not worked well. Although widely described by merchants listing the wines as a biodynamic estate, the Domaine de Bila-Haut - which began the conversion to organics when acquired by Chapoutier in 2000 - lost its certification in 2004. A particularly prickly infestation was running riot and chemical treatments turned out to be the only solution; and although the rest of the domaine remains organic, one particular section is managed using non-organic lines even today. Clearly, eschewing chemicals for the good of the soil and the wine has not been an easy path for Michel Chapoutier. But then, has it ever been easy for anyone?

Another peculiar aspect of viticulture here is Michel's approach to vine grafting, in which the French Vitis vinifera vines are grafted to American phylloxera-resistant rootstocks. In an evening dripping with Chapoutierisms, he expounded the value of growing naturally fertilised seeds from scratch, obtaining thick, phylloxera-resistant rootstock as a result, which once in the ground and established can have the required Vitis vinifera plant grafted on top. The approach is novel; whereas most vignerons would purchase ready-prepared vines from the local nursery, grafted creatures with American roots below and French spurs, stems and leaves above, Michel prefers to plant his American rootstock in the ground first, letting it establish, before he has workers graft on the French vines in situ. It is a curious process that means the vines can need 7-10 years before they yield any fruit, but nevertheless it is one he favours.

Planting density obviously varies across such a broad dominion, but it can be as high as 10,000 vines per hectare on the hill of Hermitage, with vines planted in a regular 1m x 1m grid, wide enough to permit the passage of the horse (there are two resident equine employees) and plough. I took a walk in the vines just below Chapoutier's hilltop property, at the very top of Le Méal, and the planting density here was in fact 8000 vines per hectare, using a 1.2m x 1m gris, but down on the flatter parts of the vineyard it might be reduced to 4200 vines per hectare to facilitate the passage of machines for picking and other vineyard tasks. Picking is generally late, achieving maximal ripeness.

Any words on fermentation will be similarly broad, and I have already made some specific comments on the Sélections Parcellaires and other wines above. Broadly speaking, there are wooden vats for the wines from Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage, and the fruit is destemmed prior to fermentation with automatic pigeage. Temperatures are generally maintained about 30ºC, and the fruit may be macerated for as much as four to six weeks. Concrete vessels are used for the other appellations, with délestage - when the vats are emptied and refilled to mix and submerge the solids - is used over pigeage.

You Are Now Leaving Chapoutier World

Perhaps more important than such broad and non-specific statements on the winemaking are some comments on quality. I remember reading, perhaps more than a decade ago now, comments from Jacqueline Friedrich in Food & Wine on Chapoutier's reputation for "honourable if somewhat rustic, rather lacklustre wines." Happily, at many points within the portfolio, this statement certainly no longer applies. At the very top end, the Sélections Parcellaires are superb, supreme examples of the Hermitage (or Ermitage) appellation, and from beyond the hill others - in particular the St Joseph Les Granits - also showed some real nerve. Michel deserves credit for this development, which is his doing and his alone.

Elsewhere in the portfolio, yes there are some very good wines. Most of the whites, in fact, are very strong, none less so than the Hermitage Chante-Alouette which I personally found quite enticing. Others, looking more intently at the red wines such as the Hermitage Monier de Sizeranne, can delight or disappoint it seems. And, it has to be said, Friedrich's description is even today not totally invalid; there are still some gaping holes in the Chapoutier armour in my opinion, with a number of the négoce wines in particular showing tired and rather rustic characters. Happily, one sip of the 1991 Le Pavillon, or even the 2007 De L'Orée, will more than make up for these indiscretions. The only problem, of course, is financing the purchase. (10/2/04, updated 9/8/11)

Contact details:
Address: 18 avenue du Docteur Paul Durand, 26600 Tain l'Hermitage
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 75 08 28 65
Fax: +33 (0) 4 75 08 81 70
Internet: www.chapoutier.com

Chapoutier - Tasting Notes

The notes below are on all Chapoutier wines, regardless of their origin. I have ordered them by vintage first, as is the case with all my profiles, and then according to region or country of origin, northern and southern Rhône Valley first, then other French regions including Roussillon, Provence and/or Ardeche as appropriate, then the Australian wines from Domaine Tournon and others. Click to locate stockists.

Ardeche & Roussillon

Domaine des Granges de Mirabel Viognier de l'Ardeche 2010: From vines planted at an altitude of 350m, on volcanic soils, tended biodynamically. Some is fermented in barrel, but most is managed steel. Bottled in spring. A perfumed style but here softer, than some comparable wines, with a soapy, perfumed nose. There is only moderate intensity in terms of fruit character, but there is lots of bright structure to it, and certainly some minerality here. There's a good frame to this. Overall, really appealing. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 16/20 (May 2011)

Domaine de Bila-Haut Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Blanc (Côtes du Roussillon) 2010: A blend of Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Maccabeu, grown on granite, chalk and clay, fermented in stainless steel. This has a soft, feminine style of perfumed fruit on the nose, although it is very young. A minerally tinge, and a soft volcanic edge to it provide some interest. Quite a fresh and vigorous style on the palate though, minerally and rather grippy. Fresh, with decent acids despite that soft fruit character on the nose. Still rather spritzy on the palate. Quite a reserved fruit character overall, more stony than I expected. In the end, a really nice wine. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 16/20 (May 2011)

Northern Rhône

Chapoutier Condrieu Invitare 2009: From a granite terroir. A small amount of the wine has undergone malolactic fermentation. Not all that expressive on the nose, despite Condrieu's reputation as an aromatic variety. A touch of butter here though, diacetyl from the malolactic perhaps, giving the wine a milky edge. Rather polished feel to it as well though. Slightly disparate on the palate, with a bigger substance to it than I expected. And surprisingly an appealing core of acidity at the middle. Overall rather a broad style, long too, composed but with a focus away from the aromatic Condrieu fruit. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 16.5/20 (May 2011)

Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage La Petite Ruche 2009: An example of this appellation at a level below the Varonniers and Meysonniers bottlings, this sees no oak at all, with both fermentation and élevage in concrete. Fresh, crunchy cherry fruit on the nose, with a beautifully clean character. This fresh style continues on the palate, which is lifted and bright. The structure is light, with a fine and elegant composition. This is all wrapped up in an attractive and very appealing, fruit-orientated style. Good value for money I would think. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 16.5/20 (May 2011)

Chapoutier Saint Joseph Deschants 2009: This wine, sourced from 7.5 hectares of Syrah around Tournon and Mauves, comes in at a declared 13%. The fermentation is in concrete, but there is some use of oak for the élevage. It has attractive if rather restrained nose, and on the palate it shows an appealing, gentle, quite elegant structure, with just a light seam of tannin. Quite a crunchy style. Polished and stylish although with a very light frame. An attractive wine with a fresh and bright substance. Good, albeit in this lighter style. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 15.5/20 (May 2011)

Chapoutier Saint Peray Les Tanneurs 2009: Chapoutier own 1.5 hectares of vines here, and may also buy in for blending with their own produce. The terroir is limestone and granite, and the blend essentially 100% Marsanne, although there may be a little Roussanne depending on the vintage. One-quarter of the wine has seen some old oak. A bright fruit style on the nose, with just a lightly vegetal tinge to the fruit, giving it a sagey, herby character. Bright, fresh, quite coolly structured, fresh, balanced, open and relaxed. The same herby elements coming through on the palate, leading into an attractive spice and grip in the finish. This is good. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 16.5/20 (May 2011)

Southern Rhône

Chapoutier Gigondas 2009: This is 100% Grenache. I don't find it to be that expressive on the nose, although with a little time it does open out to reveal some supple fruit, quite restrained and stylish. There are some notes of perfumed cherry and raspberry. It has quite a fresh structure to the palate, appropriate for the wine's appealing, light-footed style, with crunchy fruit underneath. It does have a rather tight, burnt fruit finish though. It is attractive, but maybe not what Gigondas lovers really want? From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 15/20 (May 2011)

Chapoutier Côtes du Rhône Belleruche 2009: A widely distributed, entry-level cuvée. This has some sweet and spicy fruit on the nose, with more than a touch of medicinal cherry. Nevertheless, it has quite an attractive palate, showing freshness and some poise. Here the cherry fruit takes on a more burnt note, and lots of spice and grip, slowly becoming less medicinal and fresher in style with some air contact. A fresh, stony edge to the fruit. This is surprisingly attractive overall, and offers decent value at the sort of price this is knocked out at. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 14.5/20 (May 2011)

Roussillon

Domaine de Bila-Haut Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Rouge (Côtes du Roussillon-Villages) 2009: From several plots, of gneiss and granite terroirs. A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan. This has a rather furry-fruit character here, with a touch of toffee sur-maturité too. It is sweetly textured at the start although more firm, structured and savoury through the middle. A supple substance to it, good flesh and grip, and plenty of vigour here, although the fruit seems a little less fresh than I would like. The finish is grippy and bright. You can sense the warmth here though, and I see that the alcohol is 14.5%. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 14/20 (May 2011)

Australia

Domaine Tournon Shays Flat Vineyard Shiraz (Pyrenees) 2009: This has sweet fruit on the nose, with a touch of toffee. Dark fruits, scents of black liquorice, still a touch of saddle leather too though. Quite perfumed in a way despite that. Sweet and pure, with new oak around the edge. The palate has a nice density to it and there is concentrated fruit, still a lot of oak all around though. An attractive, very solid style. Gently long. A good wine, but one that needs time for integration of the oak. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 16.5/20 (May 2011)

Domaine Tournon Landsborough Valley Shiraz (Pyrenees) 2009: This is rather floral on the nose, showing some fresh fruit, with a lightly smoky character. The palate is certainly seductive, polished, quite refined in fact. A lovely frame to this fresh, open and evocative wine. This is approachable and cleanly balanced through into the finish. And it has some length too. Overall, this is very impressive. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 17/20 (May 2011)

Northern Rhône

Chapoutier Hermitage Chante-Alouette 2008: Tasted at dinner. Biodynamic, sourced from a section of vines within L'Hermite. This vintage has an appealing array of very polished golden fruits on the nose, showing a lightly matchsticky character betraying a reductive philosophy, but overall this is clean and evocative, not reduced. A good tension on the palate, fine with lots of acid and grip, although the open character found on the nose does not wholly translate through onto the palate. Broad yet fine, and full of potential, although I think the 2007 pips it for me. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 17/20 (May 2011)

Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonniers 2008: This is 13%, and produced from old Syrah vines, a mix of Chapoutier and purchased fruit. Both oak and concrete fermentation vessels are used. Surprisingly a rather pale hue for the variety. And it is not very expressive, showing some unexpected calcareous, seashell elements, and it also seems a touch vegetal. There follows a very lean palate, with a pretty sharp character. The structure and substance does build in the middle though. It don't find the necessary fruit to fill this out properly. Although showing a peppery freshness it lacks character and seems rather flat in terms of affect. Having said that, some fellow tasters really liked it, so there must be something here. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 14/20 (May 2011)

Southern Rhône

Chapoutier Châteauneuf du Pape La Bernadine 2008: This comes in at 14%, officially declared at least, and is predominantly Grenache. There is really rather fresh and bright fruit here, albeit with a toffee coat, and this is soon joined by touches of nut and raisin too. On the palate it has a polished substance, a stony fruit ball, showing some meaty and spicy elements alongside. Overall I find this to have a hot, baked, raisin and nut character, and it is clearly not made with my palate in mind. A very warm climate wine...with a touch of oxidation too? From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 13/20 (May 2011)

Roussillon

Domaine de Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem (Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Latour de France) 2008: From a gneiss terroir. Latour de France is a regional village designation, not just marketing! This sees 50% oak. A slightly meaty and gamey aspect to the fruit here, along with some rubbery elements also. A polished start on the palate, quite supple, bitter and grippy, but then it clearly display that firm rubbery element again. Quite a rustic style overall, with big tannins and a drying feel to it. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 13.5/20 (May 2011)

Domaine de Bila-Haut Lesquerda (Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Lesquerde) 2008: This cuvée certainly has a fresher feel than the Occultum Lapidem. This sees just 10% oak. A much cleaner character on the nose, quite perfumed in fact. Quite polished and fresh, a cleanly framed wine, with great acidity here backing this up. There is also some lovely fresh fruit vibrancy in the end. The style here is much more convincing and to my taste. Long and crunchy. Good wine. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 16.5/20 (May 2011)

Domaine de Bila-Haut VIT (Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Latour de France) 2008: The VIT stands for Visitare Interiore Terrae, it seems. A lovely bright colour in the glass, with a concentrated and perfumed character aromatically. Polished fruit on the palate, with a slightly sweet style. Rather a supple composition, nicely integrated, with good grip to it, and piles of welcome, forceful acidity too. There is a lot of structure here behind this gently polished facade, composed of ripe and slightly grainy tannins. Ripe and long. Quite a substantial wine, in need of cellaring I think. The alcohol is declared as 14.5%, yet this doesn't come across at all. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 16.5/20 (May 2011)

Australia

Domaine Tournon Shiraz (Victoria) 2008: A very lightly gamey nose here, with a touch of saddle leather too, along with brighter notes of orange zest and cinnamon. On the palate it has a fresh start, quite tingly with acid in fact, but with a supple weight behind it. It is grippy, freshly structured, but with a leathery edge to the fruit. Firm and solid, rather than bright, but nevertheless there is something appealing here. Good. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 15/20 (May 2011)

Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier Shiraz Viognier (Victoria) 2008: Dark and smoky, but with a lifted and lightly floral streak as you might expect from the inclusion of the Viognier. Quite intense but with a light-footed feel to it. It shows a fresh style at first, then it goes quite smoky and a little fatter though the middle, showing a lot of grip and a rather disparate character, with crunchy tannin at the finish and a rather sharp, incisive feel to it. There is surely some potential here, but it needs time. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 15/20 (May 2011)

Northern Rhône

Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie Les Bécasses 2007: This cuvée is mostly Syrah, with a 3% dash of Viognier. It is predominantly made using purchased fruit, usually with a small amount from Chapoutier's own vineyards thrown into the mix. It is rather smoky and vegetal, with hints of angelica, giving it a sweet but not fresh feel. The palate is polished and grippy, with full and bright fruit coming through in the middle, and there is an appealing and long substance to it. There is a roasted, burnt earth character which I find suggestive of the appellation, but the vigour and integration I want just isn't here. Attractive, but lacking in excitement. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 15/20 (May 2011)

Chapoutier Ermitage De L'Orée 2007: An intense nose, very suggestive of minerally depth, with a taut and concentrated style behind the dried-fruit character. Rather serious, matchsticky, slightly reductive, and a peach-skin substance. The same character comes through on the palate, with a great tension running through the middle of the wine, along with a mineral vibrancy. Showing great substance in the finish, a touch creamy, although the underlying structure keeps it taut and focused. And it is very long too. Excellent. From a Sélections Parcellaires tasting. 18.5/20 (May 2011)

Chapoutier Ermitage Le Méal 2007: Fermented in 600-litre demi-muids, with 10-12 months in barrel before tasting. A more substantial nose here, a more concentrated substance to it, without the vibrant, taut, mineral suggestions of the De L'Orée. Then more creamy fruit nuances come to the fore, with notes of vanilla and face cream over the dried-candied fruit sweetness, and again here we have a matchsticky element. Much more sweet and broad on the palate than I expected, the structure here better hidden, but at its very core there is a tingling, needling minerality and acidity. It the finish, very substantial and full of spice, and it is very long. Classic style here. From a Sélections Parcellaires tasting. 18/20 (May 2011)

Chapoutier Ermitage L'Ermite 2007: The nose here is expressive, open, suggesting fruit vibrancy and freshness, but with the same density that the preceding wines have shown. A lovely supple character on the palate, quite tense at its core but with a relaxed layer of fruit around it. A good bitterness to it too. Plenty of this bitter grip to it in the finish, rolling along and giving it a lot of length. It shows much more density and substance with time, a deeper and different character even, with nuances of complex, bright tropical fruit and a spicy white-pepper edge. It does have a more relaxed feel than this note suggests though. From a Sélections Parcellaires tasting. 18/20 (May 2011)

Chapoutier Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne 2007: This cuvée is the largest volume wine from Hermitage in the Chapoutier portfolio, and is sourced largely from Les Bessards, with the possible addition of Les Greffieux and Le Méal. A reasonably dense fruit character on the nose here. There is an attraction here on the palate; the fruit character has the density and solid character of Hermitage, and there is a supple character which is more seductive than the preceding two wines. Aromatically, there are scents of lightly roasted fruit which are at least convincing. Better composition and vigour here, with a good structure to it. Overall, the structure is well covered, and the wine has balance. Attractive. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 16.5/20 (May 2011)

Chapoutier Hermitage Chante-Alouette 2007: Biodynamic, sourced from a section of vines within L'Hermite. Rather a golden hue here. A rich nose, with lightly honeyed fruit, certainly an aromatic profile that suggests a good amount of stuffing here. Concentrated on the palate, with a good fruit essence but a serious structure. It shows quite a substantial presence at first, revealing a greater grip in the middle, and also some bright acidity here. There is a lovely substance to this, and long, firm, grippy and substantial finish. Very attractive. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 17.5/20 (May 2011)

Chapoutier Cornas Les Arènes 2007: From a small plot of Chapoutier vines close to the St-Pierre chapel, a granite terroir, plus purchased fruit of course. This example of this famed appellation has some dense and smoky fruit on the nose, although alongside I also detect a slightly green and vegetal edge. It has a grippy style on the palate, with a nicely rounded fruit quality, polished and imposing. Nevertheless it does also have some green flavours reminiscent of green peppercorn. This seems substantial, with a deeper grip than expected, but also a suggestion of elegance. An attractive wine in itself, but not one that I find to be very typical of the appellation. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 15/20 (May 2011)

Chapoutier St Joseph Les Granits 2007: Lovely honeyed, dried fruit character aromatically. Some interesting organic complexity here. Rather toasty, some notes of coffee to it too, certainly an expressive wine. Lovely substance on the palate, quite some weight to it but it remains fresh, with fine acidity running down the core. A really rather good vigour to this despite its textural impression. Exciting substance to the finish. Really quite a thrilling wine for the appellation. From a Sélections Parcellaires tasting. 17.5/20 (May 2011)

Australia

Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier Malakoff (Victoria) 2007: This is dark and very smoky, showing little else other than oak on the nose, with a very intrusive burnt and toasty feel. There is a sense of chocolate to it as well, and yet also a lifted freshness behind. But it is the stewed fruit, hot mint and chocolate that wins out aromatically, and I get the same on the palate. Overall this feels rather baked and over-worked. From a Chapoutier Portfolio tasting. 13/20 (May 2011)

Northern Rhône

Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie La Mordorée 2006: This has a dark and youthful hue. The fruit profile on the nose has a rather juicy character, chewy and a touch sweet, with a perfumed edge that is particularly striking. The palate is very coolly reserved though, clean and structured, surprisingly feminine in its composition but also still very grippy and upright. In its slightly awkward youth I find this a little difficult to assess. Nevertheless, there is certainly some stony substance and potential here. From a Sélections Parcellaires tasting. 16?/20 (May 2011)

Northern Rhône

Chapoutier Condrieu 2002: A delicate nose, with floral peach and apricot fruit. Quite a firm entry, with good acidity, but some slightly confected apricot fruit. Overall a lightweight wine. 15/20 (November 2003)

Northern Rhône

Chapoutier Ermitage De L'Orée 2001: This is very different in style to the much younger white wines tasted earlier. Here we have more evolved notes on the nose, nuances of honey and gingerbread, and honey-toffee pineapple, all jostling to express the richness of the wine. Despite this, there is also a firm minerally-stony theme to it, giving the wine a fresh and bright frame. On the palate, a very fine and substantial wine, cool and quite grippy, with a huge structure tightening down on the wine at the end. Overall, with its huge depth and evolved complexity, this is a very seductive, gorgeous and supple composition. I do feel, however, that this grandeur will be eclipsed by the 2007s given time. From a Sélections Parcellaires tasting. 17.5/20 (May 2011)

Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon 2001: This wine has an admirably rich hue, and admittedly a slightly reduced character on the nose. But there is some attractive fruit behind, showing some early evolution, it is just that there is also a slight rubbery tinge to it all, although thankfully it is not sufficient to really distract from the wine. Despite this aromatic profile it is very clean on the palate, with broad substance, sitting within a cool and fresh frame. Long, structured and spicy finish. Overall this is firmly composed and certainly in need of more cellar time yet. Good potential here. From a Sélections Parcellaires tasting. 17.5/20 (May 2011)

Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonniers 2001: This has sweet, liquorice-edged black fruits on the nose. The palate is a touch lean, but has some nicely rounded black fruits. Plenty of tannic structure but a hollow midpalate. Lacks flesh. Perhaps it will fatten out in bottle. 15+/20 (November 2003)

Chapoutier St Joseph Deschants 2001: There is more style here than in the Meysonniers. Black fruits on the nose. Elegant, balanced palate, rich in fruit, and with some good ripe tannins. Fleshy texture and moderate acidity. For drinking now, and enjoying. 15.5/20 (November 2003)

Northern Rhône

Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie La Mordorée 2000: A maturing nose here, very gamey, with some hints of undergrowth amongst the mature roasted fruit. There are some notes of rubber too suggesting reduction here. Despite this it is much brighter and fresher on the palate than I expected, showing a gentle substance. It doesn't have the vigour of the white wines that preceded it, but there is a soft substance to it. Not so well defined, rather cool and stony, signs of freshness despite the gamey tinges, and with more time in the glass it does seem to take on more vigour. There is some Brett here though; nevertheless with time in the glass this rather animally wine does grow on me somewhat, although more via the palate than the nose. From a Sélections Parcellaires tasting. 15/20 (May 2011)

Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie Les Bécasses 2000: Not a lot on the nose here. Some roasted, red and black fruits on the palate, with elegance and balance. No great typicity though. Decent tannins, firm acidity. Needs three to five years. 16+/20 (November 2003)

Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie Les Bécasses 2000: Moderate depth of colour. Buttery edged fruit on the nose. Good balance and fruit, pleasant texture, spicy tannins. No length. Tasted alongside wines of the subsequent vintage in a Northern Rhône 2001 tasting. 16+/20 (January 2003)

Chapoutier Ermitage Le Méal 2000: This is certainly more interesting than the Crozes-Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie that preceded it. Smoky, reserved and restrained fruit on the nose, with a tinge of reduction here as well. Quite meaty, some evolution here, but it gives a sense of tautness and definition. Much greater form to this wine, stone-tinged fruit, really well formed on the palate, grippy and taut. A fine construction on the finish, defined and well-framed, with a polished substance, well balanced extract and tension, with bright and well-judged acidity. A great wine, very true to the appellation, a massive step up in terms of quality. In the finish it remains taut, grippy and spicy, and there is good length. Delicious. From a Sélections Parcellaires tasting. 18.5/20 (May 2011)

Chapoutier Ermitage L'Ermite 2000: There is a surprisingly fresh and lifted, floral nose here, with scents of chalky fruit, beautifully fresh and evocative, very floral and expressive, like "summer rain on a hot stone" says Michel Chapoutier and I can see his point. The palate follows on in the same style, showing a more substantial character in the midpalate, but maintaining an finely granitic, stony substance to it. And yet despite this stony backbone it has a defined character, lifted, broad, not fleshy but reserved and honestly textured. A very impressive wine which speaks very clearly of its appellation, I feel. From a Sélections Parcellaires tasting. 18/20 (May 2011)

Chapoutier Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne 2000: Restrained nose. Lovely texture and weight on entry, leading into a creamy midpalate. Rich in dark black fruits and ripe tannins, with roasted nut flavours alongside the fruit. This has really fattened up since I tasted it in January 2003 when I hardly rated it at all. 16.5+/20 (November 2003)

Chapoutier Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne 2000: A better colour. Soft, round buttery fruit on the nose. On the palate, some aromatic fruit with a fair amount of tannin and acidity. Lightweight. Tasted alongside wines of the subsequent vintage in a Northern Rhône 2001 tasting. 15+/20 (January 2003)

Chapoutier Hermitage Chante-Alouette 2000: A restrained nose, but some hints of honey richness. Good weight and grip on the palate, and plenty of honey and nut mineral flavours. This is a big, powerful wine, with plenty of potential for improvement. 16+/20 (November 2003)

Chapoutier Crozes-Ermitage Les Varonniers 2000: This seems really very closed down on the nose, showing rather a lot of reduction, along with some gamey tinges. Chapoutier finds some graphite minerality in the wine, but what I find more prominent are the gamey-meaty notes, along with a little greenness. An easy going palate, quite relaxed, but through the middle showing more tension and lots of crystal-tinged fruit, as well as an awful lot of spice here and though into the finish which also shows some rather sharp structure. Substantially through the middle it is pleasing but the rather spiky structure dominates more towards the end. From a Sélections Parcellaires tasting. 15/20 (May 2011)

Southern Rhône

Chapoutier Croix de Bois Châteauneuf du Pape 2000: This is sweet, with an interesting nose, quickly opening out to reveal a fine and savoury substance, with tinges of leather, dried fruit and touches of orange zest. This all seems very promising, aromatically at least. Sweet and liquorice-tinged flavours in the mouth but despite this overall quite a reserved palate, fresh and keeping a bright character throughout, with an upright poise as well. On the whole, an attractive wine for the appellation. From a Sélections Parcellaires tasting. 16.5/20 (May 2011)

Chapoutier Châteauneuf du Pape La Bernadine 2000: A sweet, fruity, Grenache influenced nose here. Good density and richness on the palate here, with some sweet, exotic roasted fruits, and a touch of liquorice. Rounded, appealing texture, soft acidity. 16+/20 (November 2003)

Chapoutier Coteaux du Tricastin La Ciboise 2000: A dark, ruddy coloured wine, although not very dense. Very rustic nose, with some macerated plum fruit. Fairly light on the palate, maybe even a touch dilute. Has a low level of somewhat aggressive tannins and warming, spicy alcohol, both of which show on the finish. Seems a little disjointed. Nice roasted plummy fruit though. The colour suggests a little barrel ageing has occurred, unsurprisingly for Chapoutier, and this would be supported by the mouthfeel. 14/20 (May 2003)

Provence

Chapoutier Domaine des Beates Coteaux d'Aix en Provence Terra d'Or 2000: Wonderful colour. Dark, black crunchy berry fruits with a cigar box edge. Full texture on the palate, rich in depth of flavour, balanced, with buttery oak. Sharp but correct acidity and moderate tannins. Tasted alongside wines of the subsequent vintage in a Southern Rhône 2001 tasting. 16.5+/20 (January 2003)

Provence

Chapoutier Domaine des Beates Coteaux d'Aix en Provence Terra d'Or 1999: Again a great colour. Closed on the nose I think, with just a hint of ripe fruit. Certainly closed on the palate - all texture and little in the way of fruit at present, but this will change. Plenty of spicy tannins. Some interest on the finish. Tasted alongside wines of the 2001 vintage in a Southern Rhône 2001 tasting. 16+/20 (January 2003)

Northern Rhône

Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage La Petite Ruche 1998: A vivacious purple colour, and an enticing nose of raspberry and blackberry fruit, with a suggestion of jammy richness. Not at all jammy on the palate however, rather good extract, a delicious mouthfeel, summer berry fruit flavours and sharp, fresh acidity. Finishes cleanly, the overall impression being greatly superior to that of the 1997. 15.5/20 (June 2000)

Southern Rhône

Chapoutier Châteauneuf du Pape La Bernadine Blanc 1998: An attractive white fruit nose, with a smoky edge. Round, moderately rich fruit. Fat texture, good weight. From a Portland Wine tasting. 15/20 (December 2000)

Northern Rhône

Chapoutier Condrieu 1997: A delightfully aromatic nose of peaches, pine kernels and lemon sherbet. A lean, elegant palate, with nutty complexities, apple and apricot fruit. Nicely balanced. From a Portland Wine tasting. 16.5/20 (December 2000)

Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage La Petite Ruche 1997: Decent red-purple colour. Nice nose of raspberry and blackberry fruit, and Syrah pepper. On the palate it is quite light, with some attractive fruit, pepper and spice. Soft tannins, acceptable balance. Pleasant, but uninspiring. 15/20 (June 2000)

Northern Rhône

Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie 1996: Lovely bright red-purple hue. Good fruit on the nose, with an attractive, perfumed edge. A medium, elegant weight, some very soft but not quite fully integrated tannins, and good fruit. Really should be given more time. From a Portland Wine tasting. 16+/20 (December 2000)

Chapoutier Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne 1996: An attractive hue, dusty but certainly not mature, claretty with a tinge of oxblood, and a pale rim. The nose has none of the off-putting chemical notes found last time, and given appropriate time in the decanter it shows a gently expressive character, well reined in, with a very savoury flavour, with a little woody element in the background. There is none of the blackberry-bramble notes I enjoyed previously, this is all more tightly packed now, with a little game to it. There is a nice edge to it too, an unpretentious aromatic definition. The palate is supple and polished, nicely structured behind the substance, fresh too. Quite rounded and mouth-filling, with a gently chalky backbone of tannins and nicely balanced acidity. It all comes across as well judged, and although not exploding with flavour it certainly has an appealing presence in the mouth. Good grippy length with bite; this will go some time in the cellar yet. Not a patch on so many other Chapoutier wines I have tasted this year though; it really does seem to me that the négoce wines really are several steps below the wines from Chapoutier's own vineyards. From my 1996 Vintage Fifteen Years On tasting. 16/20 (December 2011)

Chapoutier Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne 1996: An attractive, meaty-mature aroma from the bottle immediately it is opened, but when poured into the glass for tasting more awkward volatile notes dominate, with lots of ethyl acetate and vinyl-like aromas. But there is good Northern Rhône character, with a meaty, beefy note together with the sweet but restrained blackberry-bramble jelly note of Syrah fruit. The palate is rather firm, masculine perhaps, still a little abruptly presented rather than being a wine full of feminine wile. There is grip and structure, although perhaps with a rather transparent texture and lack of concentration of flavour, lending it a rather obvious backbone of alcohol. I think I am being very critical. Good wine, though. From a 1996 vintage ten years on tasting. 16+/20 (December 2006)

Chapoutier St Joseph Deschants 1996: Nice colour. A smoky Grenache nose, with hints of tobacco and tar. Medium bodied, with good fruit, and obvious tannins. Needs more time. From a Portland Wine tasting. 15/20 (December 2000)

Roussillon

Chapoutier Banyuls Vin Doux Naturel 1996: A cherry red hue, with a marked tawny colour belying a decent amount of wood ageing. Nose has spicy cloves, a medicinal note, some Grenache fruit and an orange-lemon hint of acidity. The palate has good body and more medicinal fruit. Perhaps a little lacking in acidity. Nice warming finish. 15/20 (June 2000)

Northern Rhône

Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Les Varonniers 1995: A dark, inky, serious looking wine. Fantastic, expressive nose, loaded with dark, smoky fruit. Seems a touch light on entry, but it quickly fattens up through the midpalate. A big, structured wine, well integrated and balanced, although there is a firmness to the acidity. A weight of smooth, glossy fruit. Approachable now but really needs time - three years in the cellar. Even more impressive than my last tasting. From a 1995 Northern Rhône blind tasting. 19/20 (March 2003)

Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Les Varonniers 1995: This is Chapoutier's second vintage of his top Crozes-Hermitage cuvée, the first being 1994. A red purple hue, with a massive amount of fruit, some toffee oak and smoky notes. A little austere on the palate, lots of toffee oak but with an equal abundance of fruit. Very tannic, it needs more time in bottle. From a Rhône blind tasting. 18.5+/20 (January 2001)

Chapoutier Cornas 1995: A moderately dark, clearly maturing wine. Notes of smoke and meat on the nose, with a cinder toffee character denoting the use of new oak. Quiet ungiving on the palate. Rock-hard tannins and firm acidity, although there is a healthy presence of sweet, ripe, creamy fruit. Hard, tannic, drying finish. It may come together quite well I feel. Needs three to five years in the cellar. From a 1995 Northern Rhône blind tasting. 16.5+/20 (March 2003)

Southern Rhône

Chapoutier Châteauneuf du Pape La Bernadine 1995: Less dense than the previous wines. Roasted fruits on the nose. Balanced and even elegant on the palate. Sweet, burnt character on the palate. Possibly a little dilute though. Ready for drinking now. From a 1995 Southern Rhône tasting. 15/20 (February 2004)

Chapoutier Gigondas 1995: A good, mature-red hue. Not giving too much on the nose, although there is some herby fruit. On the palate at first it seems quite firm, but soon fleshes out to show a sweet, rounded texture. A good structure, with lovely ripe tannins underpinning the fruit. A sweet, herby flavour. A complete wine. From a 1995 Southern Rhône tasting. 16/20 (February 2004)

Northern Rhône

Chapoutier Cornas 1994: A purple wine, also with some tawniness to the hue. This has toffee fruit and some floral notes on the nose. A big and full wine on the palate, with plenty of ripe tannins. A great texture is backed up by ripe black fruits, oak, and strong acidity. A lovely wine set to improve. From a 1994 Northern Rhône blind tasting. 17+/20 (February 2002)

Northern Rhône

Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon 1991: A remarkable wine, served blind, and clearly now fully mature. Once the label is revealed we learn it was harvested at less than 10 hl/ha, and the fermentation vessels were one-third chestnut. Great substance on the nose, evolved and slightly undergrowthy, but still with a very convincing showing of fruit alongside. A supple and well-polished palate, fresh and light-footed, fine rather than roasted, beautifully cool and expressive. Very long in the finish too. There is structure and grip underneath it all, so there is no rush to drink this, although it certainly is delicious right now. From a Sélections Parcellaires tasting. 18.5/20 (May 2011)

Chapoutier 'Gauntley's of Nottingham Reserve' Cornas 1991: Here's another wine which isn't quite what it seems at first glance. Although it bears the easily recognisable Chapoutier label, and has clearly been bottled for UK merchant John Gauntley, I have it on authority that the wine was sourced solely from the vineyards of Louis Verset, brother to Noel. Acidic fruit on the nose, but with blackcurrant and small berry fruits. Somewhat fuller on entry, and quite well balanced. Smoky, mature, and full of ripe tannins and rich fruit. A creamy mouthfeel, but a shorter finish. From a 1991 Northern Rhône blind tasting. 17/20 (November 2002)

Northern Rhône

Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie 1990: This has a perfumed orange peel nose, perhaps a little more suggestive of Côte-Rôtie, although it develops some funky, vegetal notes in the glass. On the palate, however, this is another soft and rich wine which doesn't have the elegance of this appellation at its best. Soft tannins. From a 1990 Northern Rhône blind tasting. 14.5/20 (May 2001)

Chapoutier Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne 1990: A somewhat stinky, vegetal nose here. Then the stacks and stacks of new oak hit me. A big, austere wine, with lots of body but no hard tannins. Firm texture, lovely fruit. The oak doesn't seem to dominate the palate as it does the nose, but it is still there. From a 1990 Northern Rhône blind tasting. 16.5+/20 (May 2001)

Northern Rhône

Chapoutier Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne 1988: A fairly pale, red-tawny wine. There are some high toned aromas, matched by plentiful acidity on the palate. Nevertheless, it has a rounded, creamy texture, and a powerful tannic kick on the endpalate. Good fruit. From a 1988 Northern Rhône blind tasting. 16/20 (July 2002)

Chapoutier Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne 1988: A small amount of light sediment on decanting. A rich, red-purple hue, fading to an orange-pink rim, with no tawniness at all. The nose initially has smouldering charcoal and then grilled Cumberland sausages, but after five minutes in the glass gives off a blast of classic, Northern Rhone rubber. The nose then really closes up, leaving just rich, smoky fruit and a touch of that rubber. On the palate, sweet, spicy black fruit sits with black pepper and smoke, with fine, integrating tannins and balanced acidity. A rich mouthfeel. Finishes with a slightly hot, spicy note. Good length. Although ready for drinking, this wine is just reaching peak and will last years yet. 17/20 (December 2000)

Ardeche

Chapoutier Le Coufis (Vin de France) NV: Tasted at dinner. Not vintage designated, but Lot: 2007 makes clear when the fruit for this straw wine was harvested. Chapoutier does not refer to it as a vin de paille, reserving that terminology for Hermitage, but that is what it is. A golden hue in the glass, with an intense, fruit-pastille aroma. The palate carries the same characteristics, very intense, sweet and textured, perfumed and grippy, but with oil-sweet fruit dominating. Interesting but not imbued with the complexity or nervosity I look for in sweeter wines. 14.5/20 (May 2011)