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Chateau Camensac
Although most of those estates ranked in the 1855 classification lie within the famous communes of St Estèphe, St Julien, Pauillac and Margaux, there are five (discounting the obvious exception of Haut-Brion) that do not. Perhaps most notable of these is La Lagune, the highest ranked of the handful, and the southernmost classed growth estate of all the Médoc. Then comes La Tour Carnet, a quatrième cru, another property which has been turning out some superlative wines in recent years. Down at the level of the fifth growths, however, there are three; the frequently good value Cantemerle, the rarely sighted Belgrave, and lastly Camensac. Although not the most furtive of wines, I have not encountered those of Camensac very frequently. A reputation for less than impressive quality, together with an isolated location west of St Julien (near Belgrave and La Tour Carnet), well away from the Gironde, have both helped to keep Chateau Camensac in obscurity.
The
modern era for Camensac began in 1964, when the estate was purchased by the
Forner brothers, who had plenty of experience in winemaking at Marqués de
Cacères in Rioja, which they also owned. The brothers proceeded to turn things
around at Camensac, with a program of extensive replanting of 85 hectares of
vineyard, renovation of the winery and procurement of the services of consultant
oenologist Professor Emile Peynaud. Even the chateau, a simple, single-storey,
18th Century manor house surrounded by outbuildings, has been fully renovated.
The quality of the wines improved, Peynaud subsequently giving way to Michel Rolland,
and during the 1990s they have been good value, worthy buys. Nevertheless, in early 2007
Rolland and Camensac parted ways (as he dropped twenty of his Bordeaux
consultancies to concentrate on his new venture, the Rolland Collection, a
company established with David Lesage, his son-in-law), and what will happen now
at Camensac remains to be seen.
The Camensac vineyards are on a gravelly elevation in the commune of
Saint-Laurent-Médoc, and the excellent drainage afforded by the deep, stony soil
is augmented by a system of field drains. The various plots, all entitled to the Haut-Médoc
appellation, are cared for on an
individual basis, and this process is carried through to the chai. The
vines are planted at a density of 10000 vines/ha, and are mostly Cabernet
Sauvignon (60% of the vineyard area), the remainder being entirely Merlot. The
vineyard treatments are applied in a rational fashion, with some use of natural
fertiliser, and control of yields using both pruning and a green harvest as
required. When the fruit is eventually harvested, the eventual yields are likely to
be in the order of
40-45 hl/ha. They are fermented in stainless steel with temperature control,
with a maceration frequently reaching 25 days, occasionally longer. The grand
vin is Chateau Camensac a blend of the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot
reflecting the proportions in the vineyard, aged in oak (up to 70% new each vintage, although as
little as 35% in some vintages) for as long as 20 months. The annual production
of this wine is typically 20000 cases, with half as much again for Camensac's
second wine, La Closerie de Camensac.
Whilst not the greatest wines in Bordeaux by a mile, I have found some pleasure in a number of bottles of Camensac over the years. A mini-vertical in 2003, curiously alongside a horizontal tasting of other wines from the 1990 vintage in Bordeaux showed that the estate certainly has promise; sadly the 1990 Camensac was corked, but the 1996 was as good as was hoped for. More recently, the 2005 has demonstrated some potential, the 2006 and 2003 less so. But perhaps my most fond memories of Camensac concern the 1998, spotted at a bargain price in a supermarket not far from Nantes. It made for a delicious, easy drinking alternative to the Muscadet and Anjou which was my staple at the time. (28/5/03, updated 13/6/07)
Contact details:
Address: Chateau Camensac, 33112 Saint-Laurent-Médoc
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 59 41 69
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 59 41 73
Internet: www.chateaucamensac.com
Chateau Camensac - Tasting Notes
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Chateau Camensac (Haut-Médoc) 2006: An intriguing nose, notes of smoky coffee and
liquorice-laced fruit. Rather light-footed, but it has texture, although it is
somewhat lacking through the hollow midpalate. A touch unfocussed. Well coated
structure, firm and ripe coating of tannins, and moderate acidity. Nicely
composed, just lacking impact. From my
2006 Bordeaux assessment.
13.5-14.5/20 (April 2007)
Chateau Camensac (Haut-Médoc) 2005: A dense colour, but very bright, with a
blue-purple rim. Ripe fruit on the nose, notes of cherries and blackberries.
Gentle attack on the palate. Seems a touch lean, lacking in the weight or
substance of some other wines. Good grippy tannins though, melded with some
sweet fruit on the finish. Good. From my
2005 Bordeaux en primeur
tasting. 15.5-16.5/20 (April 2006)
Chateau Camensac (Haut-Médoc) 1998: Plenty of youthful colour here.
Quite classic on the nose, with an abundance of fine, crunchy blackcurrant fruit
with a healthy dose of stony minerals. The palate has balance, medium body and a
nice tannic backbone. Plenty more of that stylish mineral fruit as well. Plenty
of pleasure here, for drinking now and over the next five years. 15/20 (August 2003)
Chateau Camensac (Haut-Médoc) 1996: A dense, inky darkly coloured wine, showing
it's youth with a pink, vibrant rim. Rich, ripe, plump blackcurrant fruit and
cream on the nose. Like the 1994, a rich, sumptuous mouthfilling wine, again
with good underlying structure. Fluid and structured, obvious firm tannins.
Quite a serious wine, and clear evidence of the improvement in quality that
this estate has seen over the last decade. Needs another three years in the
cellar. 16.5+/20 (May 2003)
Chateau Camensac (Haut-Médoc) 1994: A dense, much more youthful looking wine.
What a gorgeous nose, full of creamy blueberry and blackberry fruit crumble,
with a rounded, smoky, buttery character. A sumptuous, lush texture on the
palate, but underpinned by lovely structure. Still a touch of firmness and
some tannin showing on the finish. Lovely creamy quality and good length. Will
benefit from another year or two in the cellar, but drinking beautifully now.
An impressive effort for the vintage. 16+/20 (May 2003)
Chateau Camensac (Haut-Médoc) 1990: An attractive dark red with a
mature, mahogany tinge. It's not particularly expressive on the nose, and there
is the telltale note of cork taint. There are some notes of smoky blackcurrant
though. There's great structure and balance on the palate, quite fluid and rich.
Nice fatness. Undoubtedly corked though. What a shame, as there's plenty to
suggest this would have been a lovely wine. From a Bordeaux 1990
horizontal tasting. Not rated.
(May 2003)
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