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Domaine Cady

Philippe Cady has had a reputation as a rising star of the Loire Valley, but in my mind he is now firmly established as one of the regions most respectable producers. His wines are still, however, underrated, and therefore can be excellent value and relatively easy to find.

It's worth keeping an eye out for wines from Domaine Cady, as they often seem to turn up in unusual places - I have purchased the wines of Domaine Cady in both the high street and supermarket in the past. The straight Coteaux du Layon tasted here was available in a local supermarket for a ridiculously low price of £3.49 a short while ago.

Cady regularly turns out delicious bottles, from his basic Coteaux du Layon, right up to his top wines. The range includes basic Coteaux du Layon St-Aubin cuvées, a single vineyard cuvée Les Bruandières and a special cuvée Harmonie. The flagship wines include the Cuvée Eleonore, Cuvée Volupte and Cuvée Pierre Anatole. This latter wine is the top cuvée, made from a tri (one pass through the vineyard by the pickers, taking only the most suitable grapes) in St-Aubin, and it is priced accordingly. Philippe Cady's wines are, however, generally very affordable, and there are plenty to choose from, including basic Chaume and St-Aubin cuvées, as well as vineyard bottlings. (30/5/02)

Contact details:
Address: 49190 St-Aubin de Luigne
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 78 33 69
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 78 67 79
Internet: www.domainecady.fr

Domaine Cady - Tasting Notes

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Domaine Cady Anjou Blanc Cheninsolite 2009: This is barrel-fermented Chenin Blanc. Rather a light fruit character to the nose, overt evidence of new barrel though, coming through in that honeyed-buttery style that sings of barrel ferment. A supple style on the palate, polished and well rounded, with an appealing soft yellow-gold fruit flavour, but with a less obtrusive layer of oak than I had imagined. This comes through at the finish, where it really tightens its grip on the palate. Attractive elements here, but it would need time for that oak to fade - if it ever will. From a Loire 2009 tasting. 14.5?/20 (January 2011)

Domaine Cady Coteaux du Layon St-Aubin 2009: A much more classic character on the nose here, gently polished golden fruits coated with a little honey, sprinkled with the crunchy crystalline elements that botrytis can bring. A rich style on the palate, quite bold and broad, certainly quite functional, and all a little awkward and youthful at the moment, There is a creamy-oily substance to one side, and a good current of acidity on the other, but the two seem quite disparate at present. There is some beautiful orange and quince-tinged fruit too. It rolls up into a rather short finish though. Attractive if rather straightforward. From a Loire 2009 tasting. 16/20 (January 2011)

Domaine Cady Coteaux du Layon St-Aubin Les Varennes 2009: This wine majors on purity as far as the nose goes, showing a very precise combination of gentle, golden fruits with a fine minerality and wonderful crystalline, quince and herbal tea nuances. Very fresh on the palate, the mellifluous tones from the honeyed fruit slowly building and rising through the palate, coming up to meet the crunchy, botrytis, quartzy-minerally elements that also reside here. This is a real stunner with great elegance, but also a well honed and rich complexity; it will age beautifully, I am confident of that. From a Loire 2009 tasting. 18/20 (January 2011)

Domaine Cady Coteaux du Layon Chaume 2009: Perhaps not so expressive as some of the other wines, but there is a very fine core of rich honeyed fruit here, although it is also rather quiet and shows a very polished and solid style rather than the brighter, crystalline characters I might usually look for from Chaume. But the depth and the intensity is certainly there, and it comes through on the palate which like the nose does seem to have a rather subdued, soft-focus character to it. It has lovely style though, with a real minerally edge coming up as the wine warms in the mouth. This is very fine, but in a very rich style; there is a really firm core of acid here too, it just seems rather youthfully disparate at the moment. From a Loire 2009 tasting. 17-18/20 (January 2011)

Domaine Cady Coteaux du Layon St-Aubin 1997: A fairly rich golden colour on inspection, which was promising despite some reservations - when I last tasted this a year ago I recall it as being a fairly simple, sweet, undistinguished wine. Honey and herbal tea, quinine and quince on the nose, with some rich notes of botrytis and some fresh, yet slightly sour, green apple notes. Lovely texture on the palate, with a weight of sweet honey fruit, plenty of botrytis character and great acidity. This has taken on much more character since I last tasted it. Amazing value for money - a superb wine bearing in mind I parted with just £3.49 per 750mL bottle a little over a year ago, and I happen to know that price per bottle for a cellar door purchase was 45FF. 16.5/20 (May 2002)

Domaine Cady Coteaux du Layon St-Aubin 1997: A fairly delicate nose, with some quinine, citrus peel and herbal tea. A gently honeyed, rich palate, with quinine and white fruits. Has just sufficient acidity. Pleasant drinking. 15.5/20 (April 2001)

Domaine Cady Coteaux du Layon St-Aubin 'Harmonie' 1997: A shimmering, deep, yellow-gold colour when poured, a vibrant hue which suggests this wine has much in store. Indeed it does; although the nose starts off dominated by a high-toned volatility which swamps all other aromas, there soon emerges notes of botrytis with apples and pears following behind, a charming, scented array which is less exuberant than I remember, but no less fine. The palate has a pure and well defined character, which builds in intensity through the midpalate as does the texture, starting off light-footed and elegantly delineated which fits with my mental picture of the wine from when I last tasted it, in 2002, but soon opening out to reveal a more plush, opulent and dense consistency. There are fleeting nuances of caramel, but it retains a freshness like the bite of a crisp apple which gives it a lot of appeal. Overall, this is a very complete, beautifully composed wine which has proved itself yet again to be fabulous drinking and also great value for money. This was my last bottle I am afraid, but I suppose that is all the more reason to visit Domaine Cady next time I am in the Loire. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17/20 (August 2007)

Domaine Cady Coteaux du Layon St-Aubin 'Harmonie' 1997: A rich golden colour, and a delightfully full and expressive nose. Aromas of candied peel, quince , honey and herbal tea are present, all in abundance. On the palate there is a rich, honeyed texture, full bodied but with good structure. Smoke and mineral flavours, oaked citrus fruits with pepper and spice. Very nicely balanced acidity, through to a clean and spicy finish. Good length. Delicious stuff, with plenty of bottle age ahead of it. 17/20 (May 2002)

Domaine Cady Coteaux du Layon St-Aubin 'Harmonie' 1997: Despite a pale colour, this wine has a lovely nose of pineapple, quince and marmalade. There is clean and fresh acidity on the palate, with honeyed botrytis. Delicious, and all too easy to drink. 17/20 (April 2001)

Domaine Cady Coteaux du Layon St-Aubin Grains Nobles Les Bruandières 1997: A deep yellow golden colour. The nose is rich and full with pineapple, quince and herbal tea aromas. Similar favours on the palate, with a big, fat, impressive texture. In the past low acidity has always suggested to me that this is a wine not suitable for long term cellaring. The acidity seems a little more balanced this time, but is still on the low side, which means that this wine takes on an almost oily mouthfeel at times. This is delicious stuff - whenever I open a bottle I just can't stop drinking it. 16.5/20 (May 2002)

Domaine Cady Coteaux du Layon St-Aubin Grains Nobles Les Bruandières 1997: A rich nose of lemon and orange marmalade, botrytis and quince. Rich and lush on the palate, with very low acidity which throws the wine out of balance. Akin to drinking liquid marmalade, with nuances of quinine and herbal tea on the endpalate. Clean finish and a good length. 16.5/20 (April 2001)

Domaine Cady Sélection de Grains Nobles Volupté 1997: A rich and deeply coloured wine, with honey and mealy orange fruit. Earthy and mineral, and rather voluptuous (perhaps unsurprisingly given the name). Broad, sweet honeyed fruit with a good acid core, and a huge, fat, opulent style. Smoky minerals abound. Very attractive and certainly ready for drinking. From a Charles Sydney tasting. 17.5/20 (February 2009)