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Vintage Port 1997
The 1990s saw two widely declared vintages, 1997 and 1994, with something of
a split over the 1991 and 1992 vintages. Many houses declared the former, but a
few houses, most notably Fonseca and
Taylor, preferred the 1992 instead. The
1997 vintage saw a warm spring bring on early flowering. This was fortunate as
there was a cool summer, but the fine weather did at least persist through into
harvest time.
At this stage it is years before the top wines will be ready for drinking, so I taste only two wines here, from Sandeman and Cockburn's. The Vau Vintage Ports from Sandeman are intended for drinking young. Many vintages from Cockburn's over the past few decades have been rather soft offerings for early drinking. (19/2/03)
Vintage Port 1997 - Tasting Notes
Tasted in February 2003. Click
to locate
stockists:
Cockburn's Vintage Port 1997:
A deep colour, more earthy in appearance than the subsequent wine.
Somewhat hot and alcoholic on the nose, with some stalky elements. Fat,
rounded texture on the palate, with sweet molasses, and earthy, vegetal
complexity which calls to mind the lighter 1991 vintage. There's still a
pile of unintegrated tannins and alcohol. I don't know if this has the
substance to go the distance. 16/20
Sandeman Vau Vintage Port 1997: A
cuvée intended for the American market, if you believe the blurb, where
Vintage Port is often consumed in its youth. A deep purple black colour,
with sweet black fruits on the nose. This is mirrored on the palate,
which has rich, chocolate-edged fruit. Still plenty of tannin but with
so much sweet substance and nicely balanced alcohol it does seem
approachable now. 16.5+/20
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