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Vintage Port 1985
It is now nine years since I first published my mini-review of the 1985 vintage for Port, nine years that seem to have passed very quickly! Realisation of this fact prompted me to recently take another look at some examples of this vintage, although I must confess I was also stimulated to do so when I read again Richard Mayson's comments on the wines, thoughts which I have already alluded to in my brief review of the vintage. In particular his comments on excess volatility, a feature which has marked one or two bottles I have tasted during the years since my tasting at the turn of the Century; the most notable was the 1985 Niepoort, which has been very good despite this side to its character.
This tasting looked at just five wines, three of which were wines I was
revisiting having previously tasted them in 2000, whereas the other two were
wines first encountered since that event. Some showed very consistently, others
not so. Most impressive was Fonseca, the last in the line-up, which
showed density, vibrancy, perfume and also freshness. The wine from Warre's
was also very good, seemingly a touch more mature than the Fonseca, but also
with an attractive, violety perfume. Without doubt these two wines were in a
class apart from the other three, and I'm happy to have another bottle or two of
these in the cellar.
Quinta do Noval and Delaforce, whilst both in possession of some charm, were rather more tired than the two wines above. The wine from Noval was fading but figgy on the nose, although there was sweet fruit and flesh in the mouth. The effort from Delaforce was good but in context perhaps a little disappointing, as I have enjoyed previous bottles much more; is it just fading, or is it bottle variation? The corks are certainly worthy of comment, each time I have noted a buttery softness to them; are they still effective as seals in this state? Finally, and pointedly now that we are on the matter of corks, there was the wine from Niepoort. The first bottle was really quite undrinkable, and I suspect the cork here had failed in its appointed task. The next bottle opened as a replacement was better, although again not equal to my expectations based on previous experiences. And this was the wine that also showed Mayson's volatility most overtly, as it has done in the past. But also, even in this second bottle, there was also a little oxidation.
I won't be looking at this vintage in any detail again, although I suppose with a few bottles of Warre's, Fonseca and Delaforce I may make a very limited return visit sometime in the future. If considering buying any 1985s at auction, as always - as I reiterate in my tasting note on the Niepoort - caveat emptor. This is a vintage of variable quality, and as Richard Mayson has indicated there is certainly volatile acidity to be found in some of these wines. (6/3/09)
Vintage Port 1985 Tasting
Tasted in March 2009. Click
to locate stockists.
Warre's
Vintage Port 1985: This has a maturing hue, bricking red, with a moderate
density of colour. The nose has elegance, with firm violet perfume, black pepper
and strawberry lea. Delicious substance on entry, firm but full and sweet, with
rich, rounded character. There are plenty of tannins and acidity behind it, but overall
it has a perfumed, feminine character altough it is I suppose a little spirity at first. Later,
with some exposure to the air, this seems less of a problem; it has delicious, juicy, perfumed violet fruit, fine definition, freshness
and acidity. Good depth, integration and balance too. Still a good substance here, although
in a very feminine style. Ready now. 18/20
Quinta do Noval
Vintage Port 1985: A pale hue, a mature fading red, and a touch
cloudy too, despite being stood upright for the day. On the nose, sweet
maturity, notes of violet-perfumed fruit, flowery but also peppery, but also
figgy and woody, and at the side occasionally a little spirity. Nicely broad
and quite well fleshed out on entry and through the midpalate, but
underneath good and fairly firm tannins, and also fairly punchy acidity too.
But there are also some attractive flavours, and attracive dark fruits, Although
this wine displays a fading character, there is still substance, flesh and a
little sweetness here, and overall this is attractive. For drinking now. Very good. 17/20
Niepoort Vintage Port 1985: Sadly the first bottle of this showed
obvious notes of oxidation, and this wasn't surprising as there was also some
evidence of seepage around the capsule. It also released a huge tidal wave of
volatile armas when opened, and I suspect these wines were offloaded for
that very reason. Having said that I have had one very good bottle before, and so
I moved onto another here, which certainly showed better than the first. It has a nice
depth of colour, a maturing, red-walnut hue. Although also showing penty of
volatility the nose is sweet and spicy,
predominantly figgy, with elements of medicated cherry, cloves and a sweet,
burnt toffee character. A good weight on the palate, with good sweetness, a firm
structure and plenty of spicy grip. Lots of roasted fruit here, and also at
first little traces of oxidation, although with time these notes dissipate, and
this remained the case when I returned to the wine the subsequent day. Certainly
this has appeal, but it is not in perfect condition, and my score today
doesn't match my previous opinion perhaps for that very reason. Caveat emptor
with old wine, as always. 16/20
Delaforce Vintage Port 1985: The corkscrew goes through the cork as if
it were attacking butter - a similar experience to my last bottle. My previous
note on this wine from more than three years ago describes a bright and vibrant
colour, which is the first sign that this wine might be something different;
here we have a fading mahogany-pink-red wine, which displays a lot of
transparency. The nose, although initially reticent, does yield some attractive
aromas with time; violets, sweet and spicy leather and chalky rock with a perfumed
edge. The palate is sweet yet firm, perfumed yet tannic, grippy and spicy, yet
ultimately gentle for a vintage Port with nearly 25 years under its belt. It has
a nice, fading, savoury-sweet and peppery finish. Overall I like it - although
it is a different wine to the one I scored rather higher in September 2005. Very
good. 17/20
Fonseca Vintage Port 1985: This wine has a beautiful and vibrant
colour, showing little sign of age unlike some of its peers here. The nose
throws out a sequence of fleeting delights, moments of violets and flower
petals which return intermittently, perfumed and crunchy black fruits, blackberries
and raspberries. It has a chalky freshness, and a bright and fresh character. It
has a fabulous confidence, and this is shown very nicely on the palate which has
a defined structure, broad, rich, fleshy and sweet, but framed by excellent
acidity. Firmly composed, and although a touch spirity at first this soon
settles to leave a really good, maturing Port with a fine, savoury length. Still
on the way up, for sure. 18.5+/20
