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Vintage Port 1983
Probably the two most important declared Port vintages of the 1980s are 1985 and 1983, although wise buyers should not forget 1980 and even 1982. I have already tasted a range of wines from 1985 in my Vintage Port 1985 blind tasting.
A good number of shippers declared the 1983 vintage, a pleasant outcome as conditions earlier in the year did not suggest that the vintage was to be a great success. The spring was damp and cool, resulting in coulure. Summer was warm and dry though, with just the occasional shower protecting the vines from dehydration stress. Conditions at harvest time were excellent, and the grapes were sweet, ripe and healthy. Elsewhere in Europe other vignerons also experienced a good harvest - see my 1983 Vintage twenty year on tasting and Bordeaux 1983 tasting for more relevant notes.
Although I have already written about my feelings on the quality of the 1983 and 1985 vintage - the latter has the edge in my opinion - the advantage of the 1983 vintage is that it remains undervalued even though a number of the wines are ready now. I have picked up wines from this vintage for half the price of that asked for the 2000 vintage despite the latter needing two decades in the cellar. (15/2/04)
Vintage Port 1983 Tasting
Tasted blind in February 2004. Click
to locate
stockists:
Fonseca Vintage Port 1983: A moderate colour. Quite an unusual, very tertiary
nose, with aromas of cabbage, cod liver oil and a hint of toffee. A very
harmonious palate on entry, with gentle, spicy tannins through the midpalate.
A lovely texture, elegant rather than lush, balanced and very fluid. The
tannins becomes more apparent on the finish. It seems much less complex and
developed on the palate than the nose would suggest, and there are still some
notes of black fruits. A moderate length. Drinking now. 17/20
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Calem Vintage Port 1983: This has a dense, glossy and youthful appearance -
very impressive for the age of this wine. Accordingly the nose is dominated by
a core of round, sweet, accessible fruit. What a lovely palate! Powerful yet
elegant, with a fine balance and fluidity. There's still quite a thick seam of
powerful tannin running through the wine, particularly on the finish.
And it has incredible length - this is great wine. Although it is accessible now,
this top effort will benefit from
another five to ten years bottle age. 18/20
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Warre's Vintage
Port 1983: I was desperate to try another 1983 Warre's after my recent
experience of a corked bottle (see below). This has a good depth of colour,
showing maturing colours but no sign of advanced age. An almost exotic nose,
with notes of woody musk, together with dark chocolate notes and an earthy,
animalistic scent. Attractively rich, sweet and mouth-filling on the palate.
Plenty of flavour, dark chocolate coated fruits with some toast, and just a hint
of the exoticism found on the nose. Underpinned by some fine tannins and extract
- you can almost sense the grape solids on the tongue. Good clean finish with a
little kick of alcohol. 18/20
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Cockburn's Vintage
Port 1983: Dominated by cork taint, underneath which I think there
was once a great wine. What a shame. Not rated.
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Tasted between July and December 2003:
Warre's Vintage
Port 1983: A lovely colour - dense and glossy, quite youthful. Fairly
characterless on the nose. It's corked. The palate is balanced, with lovely
weight, texture, sweetness and tannin. I think there was a lovely wine beneath
this cork taint - previous bottles of Warre's 1983 have been lovely. Not rated.
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Taylor's
Vintage Port 1983:
This is quite a pale colour for vintage Port, with a red, raspberry tinge to it.
On the nose it seems quite delicate and pretty, with some red fruits. On the
palate, however, it demonstrates more power, with a strong spicy character, firm
acidity, plenty of tannin through the mid- and end-palate, together with a lush
richness of fruit. A sweet, lingering finish. Drinking well now, but will easily
go another ten years. This was a very good vintage for Taylor's. 18/20
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Dow's Vintage
Port 1983:
Quite a dark hue to this wine, with dense, chewy fruits on the nose. Rich and
structured on the palate, which is reserved rather than lush or open. A huge
core of tannin, especially on the finish. Sweet and dense fruit, and lovely
extract. This is mouthfilling and savoury. Good length. Drinking well now
despite that tannin, but will benefit from another 5-10 years in the cellar.
18/20
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Graham's Vintage Port 1983:
This wine has an amazing colour for it's age - it looks barely ten years old.
The nose gives a similar impression, as it is still densely packed with lovely,
chocolate-tinged fruit. The palate is big and sweetly textured, with a
fantastic, harmonious structure, provided by a seam of ripe, integrated tannins
which never dominate. This is delicious stuff. Needs another 5-10 years.
18.5+/20
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