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Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, 2010
Domaine de la Taille
aux Loups
This update relates to wines tasted in February and July 2010.
For more on this estate, including all my relevant tasting notes, see my Domaine de la Taille aux Loups profile.
At the 2010 Salon des Vins de Loire I devoted most of one day to Vouvray, with a variety of different purposes. With some estates it was an opportunity to taste the latest vintages and, in the case of Domaine Huet, it sparked a substantial overhaul of my profile, whereas with others - namely Vincent Carême - the domaine in question was entirely new to me. But with many of them it was the perfect moment to reacquaint myself with domaines which I simply haven't managed to visit and taste in a while, with François Chidaine, Catherine and Didier Champalou and Bernard Fouquet of Domaine des Aubuisières all high on my hit-list. And alongside this trio I would also place Jacky Blot of Domaine de la Taille aux Loups.
Having said that, as with my recent 2010 Huet update the tasting notes below in fact originate from two tastings, not only the aforementioned meeting at the Salon in February 2010, but also a flying visit to the domaine just a few months later in July. The contrast between the two tastings was extraordinary; at the Salon I tasted right across the range, from sec through to the sweetest moelleux cuvées, and also the sparkling wines of course. The focus was on the embryonic 2009s, followed by the 2008s, with a handful from the 2005 vintage. The tasting was comprehensive, exhaustive even, the standard of wines very high, and the quality and vivacity of the samples very admirable. It is strange then that this apparent commitment did not translate through to the tasting at the domaine, where only a handful of samples were shown, some of which were clearly out of condition.
Of the eleven wines poured at the domaine, three were in no fit state to be tasted or drunk. One showed a very mouldy, musty nose, rather reminiscent of an off bottle of Sociando-Mallet I tasted at the domaine a few years ago which a fellow visitor pointedly and appropriately described as having le nez de torchon. Two of the final wines, which should have been exemplary examples of the moelleux style, were instead more marked by the baked-earth character of oxidation. The fact that each bottle contained only a centimetre-or-so of wine clearly indicated why this should be; these were both very tired tasting samples. I must confess I found it surprising that with such fastidious attention to detail in the vineyard and cellar, and such a professional pouring of high quality samples at the Salon, that visitors to the domaine don't seem to be treated to tasting samples of a standard that actually reflects the quality of wines produced here.
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups - 2009, 2008, 2005
But what of the wines that were up to scratch? Starting with 2009 quality is very high and this seems to run right across the range, with a selection of delicious dry wines and also some seductive sweet cuvées. The four dry wines tasted made an interesting quartet for assessing the quality of the vintage, with two wines from each of the two principal appellations of Vouvray and Montlouis, each commune giving us a premier trie and a deuxième trie cuvée. Each of the four wines showed very well, suggesting to me that there was consistent quality of fruit across the board, a very positive feature of the vintage I think, and retasting Les Dix Arpents at the domaine in July only served to confirm this impression.
From the sec cuvées we jumped straight to moelleux, there being four wines on show, generic cuvées from both sides of the river as well as a Clos de Venise (weighing in at about 105 g/l) and also the crème de la crème, Romulus, made from the Montlouis vines in only the most favourable vintages. This dominates the sweeter end of the spectrum, its intensely focused intertwining of flavour and texture carried along by a prodigious level of residual sugar, approximately 200 g/l. This is a very impressive wine which will be a fabulous addition to the cellar of any sweet wine fanatic.
Moving onto 2008 the dry cuvées tasted were again four in number, although the composition a little different, the premier trie Les Caburoches this time being replaced by the deuxième trie Clos de la Venise. The wines showed very nicely, bright and flavoursome in character, although they don't possess the delightful impact of the 2009s. Perhaps because demi-sec is where all the action is at in 2008, and there is indeed just such a cuvée from the Montlouis appellation from Domaine de la Taille aux Loups; note though that this particular example possesses just 15 g/l residual sugar, a level comparable to that of the sec cuvées from Huet. I revisited this particular demi-sec at the domaine in July, and reaffirmed my opinion that like many such cuvées in 2008 - not just those from Huet across the river or Blot's neighbour François Chidaine but from a number of other domaines also - this is an admirable wine.
Finishing off, a number of wines from 2005 were tasted, including a rather reticent Montlouis Moelleux, followed by the delightful Cuvée des Loups and Clos de la Venise, before winding up with Romulus again. The Cuvée des Loups was tasted only in February, but the other three wines were assessed both in February at the Salon and in July at the domaine. The entry-level Montlouis Moelleux would perhaps offer the best value, an opinion formed largely when tasting at the domaine, the sample presented in February coming across as a little surly and aloof. The Clos de la Venise possesses more than twice the level of residual sugar and is also - as we should expect - much richer in terms of flavour and complexity. But at the top of the tree sits, unsurprisingly perhaps, the exalted Romulus cuvée once again; this is a wine I have tasted several times in this vintage, each encounter providing another moment of self doubt as I question why I have not yet purchased this wine for my own cellar. It is, I assure you, merely a question of time and money, because the quality certainly merits such a purchase.
My tasting notes, for all the wines mentioned above as well as new notes on Jacky Blot's latest releases of his Triple Zero and Brut Tradition cuvées (which are based on the 2008 vintage), and also a fascinating taste of a mature Triple Zero (based on the 2000 vintage), are included below, with my notes as per the order of tasting. My notes do not include any comment on three wines tasted at the domaine, these being the 2008 Montlouis Rémus Plus (not corked, but a very mouldy-mushroomy nose), the Montlouis Cuvée des Loups 2003 (a touch mouldy, certainly off with some notes of oxidation) or Montlouis Romulus 1990 (plainly oxidised). (7/9/10)
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, 2010 - Tasting Notes
The wines below were tasted in February and July 2010. All my notes on the wines of Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, including those below, are collated under my
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups profile.
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Wines tasted at the Salon des Vins de Loire in Angers, in February 2010.
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Pétillant Triple Zero NV: The usual
Triple Zero recipe here, no chaptalisation, no sugar in the liqueur de
tirage, dosage with dry wine. Almost a green hue in the glass, dry
and powdery-chalky on the nose, with a volcanic element. Creamily textured, very
bright and vibrant, with notes of stones rather like those volcanic elements on
the nose. Fresh and quite lovely. 17.5+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Les Dix Arpents 2009: This is from
the first pass through the vineyard, fermented in 4-5 year old barrels and aged
for six months before bottling. Bright and intense on the nose, fresh pear
fruit. Pure, with a vibrant acid core, the fruit here as fresh as the nose suggested. A
very defined style with plenty of vigour. Excellent potential here. 16.5-17.5+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Vouvray Les Caburoches 2009: This cuvée is effectively the Vouvray equivalent of Les Dix
Arpents, the fruit from the first pass through two parcels of vines (Venise and
Bretonnière) in the Vouvray appellation. This has a mineral nose, stony, a
straight and restrained character. A vibrant style on the palate, rich with
acidity, a gentle shell of fruit around the core, still very primary, with notes
of pear and flowers. A touch fatter in the midpalate, with intense minerality.
This is very good indeed. 16-17+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Rémus 2009: This is the second pass
through the Montlouis vines fermented in new and nearly-new oak. Harvest of the
2009 vintage began in September. A pure and linear nose, restrained, preceding a finely
composed palate. Intense minerality here, very precisely tuned, with a brilliant
vibrancy coming from some fine acidity. gently textured, very straight and
composed at present, but with an incredible presence in the mouth. Super wine.
16.5-17.5+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Vouvray Clos de la Bretonnière 2009: This is
the second pass through the vines of this 3.5-hectare vineyard. The nose here is
very refined, subtle and lightly mineral. A fine palate, very flavoursome, rich
in perfumed nuances of stones and flowers, and there is a little autumnal
quality to it as well, with notes of soft, ripe and sweet dessert apples.
Laser-like acidity which I like very much, giving it an elegant but vigorous style.
16.5-17.5+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Vouvray Moelleux 2009: In suitable years there
may be a moelleux cuvée from the Vouvray vines, and 2009 is one such vintage.
Residual sugar approximately 70 g/l. Sweet dessert apples on the nose, very
aromatic pears too, followed by a beautiful purity on the palate. A very rich
style in terms of flavour, autumnal again, dried fruits, all painted on a broad
but beautifully defined canvas, with the welcome tones of acidity. Fine vibrancy
to the cuvée despite the fulsome fruit character. For an 'entry-level'
moelleux this is delicious. 16.5-17.5+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Moelleux 2009: In suitable years
there may be a moelleux cuvée from the Montlouis vines too, and this is the case
in 2009. Residual sugar also approximately 70 g/l. A slightly softer, riper, more
appley style here, the fruit showing a very sweet character although with green
skins. Intense and yet elegant, gently composed, with a fine texture from some
tangible extract. Overall, a really fine composition here. 16.5-17.5+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Vouvray Clos de la Venise Moelleux 2009: A
sweet cuvée from this 1-hectare plot which has a favourable aspect. Residual sugar
here is 100-105 g/l. Honeyed apples on the nose, intense and sweetly aromatic, with a vibrant acid
core. Very linear style, although around the edges there is a fine body of
intense apple and pear fruit. Softly done, but with a superbly defined finish,
and great length. Delightful wine. 17-18+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Romulus 2009: This is the
crème de la crème for this domaine, an old-vines and botrytis-fuelled cuvée
produced only in favourable vintages from the Montlouis vines. The last vintage
was 2005. Residual sugar in 2009 is approximately 200 g/l. Still has a cloudy
appearance and a fine golden hue in the glass. Surprisingly not very expressive
on the nose, but there is wonderful character on the palate, where notes of
honey and dried-fruit-botrytis swirl around one another, trailing a little ripe
fruit volatility behind them. Despite all that richness this cuvée actually
feels very tense and wound, structured and concentrated, clearly just brimming
with potential. A true vin de garde in the making. 18.5-19.5+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Les Dix Arpents 2008: Just one year
since I last tasted this entry-level Montlouis cuvée. It has a green-gold hue,
and a very restrained nose, with some elements of green fruit. A very light
texture on entry, with a gentle fleshiness, quite subdued in style. Lightly
mineral; in fact it has a style somewhat reminiscent of that of
Champalou.
Good but not compelling. 16+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Rémus 2008: This is the second pass
through the Montlouis vines, one step up from Les Dix Arpents. Very dry,
residual sugar just 2 g/l. Much more appeal than its little brother, honeyed with a
creamy stone character. Gently defined, quite fleshy though, much more
flattering in terms of texture and composition. Overall, a very good wine.
17+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Vouvray Clos de la Bretonnière 2008: This is
the second pass through the vines in this Vouvray climat. The nose here
has lovely minerality, almost like quartz, and there are honeyed elements too, even
though it is vinified down to sec level. Great flesh on the palate, a
fine style, defined, lovely clean white fruits, just gently honeyed. Apples and
pears, lots of minerals and fine acidity. A long finish too. This is very
impressive. 17+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Vouvray Clos de la Venise 2008: This is the
second pass through the vines in this Vouvray climat. Residual sugar 3
g/l. This wine has a lovely, quite evocative but delicate nose here, a fine and
elegant style. Very flattering on the palate, with smoothly polished fruit and
elegant
balance. There is plenty of grip too though, especially towards the finish. Great defining
acidity here. Long as well. A fine effort and I just prefer it to the
Bretonnière today.
17.5+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Rémus Plus 2008: A grand name for
the top sec cuvée, a cellar selection aged in a mix of new and nearly-new
barriques for 18 months. A delicious nose, smoky golden fruits, quite
beautiful style, very pure, fine and appley. A grippy-sappy backbone to the
palate, a gentle texture laid over the top, and a fine seam of acidity cutting
through to the finish. This has fine potential but of course is not yet bottled.
17.5-18+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Demi-Sec 2008: A vintage with an
excellent reputation for demi-sec of course. Residual sugar here is
approximately 15 g/l. Sweet and honeyed white fruits on the nose, pears and
flowers, certainly this is very open and expressive. A lovely, sweet and gentle
style on the palate, with good minerality which builds through the middle of the
wine, which becomes more flashy and textured as it does so. A very nice seam of
acid here, a vivaciously composed wine, lots of potential here for sure.
17.5+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Moelleux 2005: This wine is an
entry-level moelleux before the Cuvée des Loups and Romulus cuvées.
Residual sugar 45 g/l. Not very expressive on the nose. Good weight on the
palate though, finely textured with good acidity. Not a lot of distinctive
character at present to be honest. Certainly some elements of honeyed richness
on the palate, showing more sweetness and mineral fruit towards the finish.
Clearly a good wine but being rather reticent today it seems. A hedged score
with that in mind. 16.5-17.5+?/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Cuvée des Loups 2005: I last tasted
this super moelleux cuvée one year ago, when I was told it had 90 g/l
residual. Today the figure seems to be 100 g/l; one of them is probably right! Either way it is clearly a very
richly styled wine, showing an amazing golden colour here today, obviously
botrytised, the honey-apple fruit showing a very strong character on the nose
but with a linear edge to it all. A compact, very defined palate, sweet but with
good substance too, rich and ripe but well framed. An impressive wine which
makes an impact with its rich depth and breadth rather than any fine nervosité.
Still lovely though. 17.5+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Vouvray Clos de la Venise Moelleux 2005:
This has 100 g/l residual sugar. A rather reticent nose here, perhaps this wine
and the straight moelleux are both sulking a little today. It has a fresher style than
the Loups cuvée, with a more vibrant acid backbone and a fresher, brighter
minerality, as well as some lifted herbal elements. A superbly styled wine,
perhaps more precise in its composition than the Cuvée des Loups, characterful
and long. A fine effort although it does need time in the cellar. 18+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Romulus 2005: The absolute
crème de la crème here, with 150 g/l residual sugar in this vintage. Very open on
the nose unlike the two preceding sweet wines from this vintage, with notes of
honey and beeswax, presented in a clear and bright fashion. I wonder if there is
just too much packed in here for this wine to close down? A beautiful texture,
pure with elements of quartz, minerals and golden fruits. A huge depth on the
palate, dense and incredibly impressive, but not just in terms of power but with
its balance also. An amazing substance and rounded extract here. Brilliant.
19+/20
Wines tasted at the domaine in Husseau, near Montlouis, in July 2010.
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Pétillant Triple Zero NV: Tasted once at the domaine, and
once subsequently. Although not commercialised as a single vintage wine this cuvée is
based entirely on the 2008 vintage. No sugar added at fermentation, tirage
or dosage, hence 'triple zero'. A pétillant style, light and fresh on the
nose suggestive of vanilla ice and freshly cut, watery-juicy apple. Great
flavour here, plenty of fresh apple-tinged characteristics, apple sorbet with a
full, ripe, crisp character. A gently prickling mousse. Dry, flavoursome and
very good. 17.5+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Pétillant Triple Zero NV: An interesting comparison with
the younger wine, as this cuvée is based on the 2000 vintage, so has about
eight years of bottle age on the first wine tasted. It shows some really appealing
development on the nose, with a crystalline, honey-fruit character. The palate
though is less easily described, and displays a rather medicinal quality.
Its initial aromatic appeal doesn't translate well onto the palate for me. Certainly an instructive wine to taste though. 14.5/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis
Brut Tradition NV: Tasted once at the domaine,
and once subsequently. Again, like the Triple Zero, although not commercialised
as a single vintage this cuvée is based entirely on the 2008 vintage. A more
smoky nose here, and a big presence of very ripe fruit. The palate is fresh,
stylish, with a good creamy mouse, filling out in the mouth in an admirable
although very elegant and controlled fashion. An attractive style here. 16.5+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Les Dix Arpents 2009: This
wine is behaving like a very youthful cuvée today,
with a sweet fruit pastille-intensity on the nose. The palate shows good
substance in keeping with this style, with a fresh and bright character. Sweet
fruit as suggested by the nose, intense apple and pear juice. An attractive wine.
17-17.5+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Demi-Sec 2008: This is a great vintage of
demi-sec in this region and this seems to show through in this cuvée, which has
a delicious and well-defined presence of pear fruit on the nose. The palate has
a good substance to it, a fine and fleshy character in keeping with the residual
sugar, all backed up by a crisp acid backbone. Gently honeyed fruits abound. An
elegant and well-framed wine. Very good indeed. 17.5+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Moelleux 2005: This has 45 g/l residual sugar,
and displays an attractive layer of crisp and crunchy fruit. The palate has a
good character, although there is a slightly vegetal note alongside the fruit in
this particular bottle. Good sweetness to it though. A warm and appealing
vintage. I'm not sure if this completely typical but I have included my note
anyway, although I am continuing to hedge my score. 16-17+?/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Vouvray Clos de Venise Moelleux 2005: This has 100 g/l residual
sugar, with lovely bright fruit on the nose, again showing a sweet and crunchy
character despite the warmth of this vintage. And on the palate it has a
remarkably fresh character, with a good seam of minerality. Lifted, fresh and
attractive, certainly showing more expressively than it did in February when it
seemed a little sullen aromatically. A good wine. 18+/20
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Romulus 2005: It is always difficult to know
what to write of this cuvée, one of the best examples of the style to come from
the appellation, in this vintage possessing 130 g/l residual sugar. An intense
nose, full of rich and toothsome sweetness, with notes of honey and beeswax.
Great breadth and richness on the palate, a cuvée destined to spend a long time
in the cellar, if you have any. Excellent. 19+/20
