Domaine de l'Oratoire St Martin Côtes du Rhône Cairanne Cuvée Prestige 1995: This is dense and appears more youthful than some of the other wines. Good animal and spice aromas on the nose. Balanced richness on the palate, with plenty of texture and tannin. Good fruit and structure combine to make a lovely wine. Very impressive for the appellation. 16.5/20

Domaine Rabasse Charavin Côtes du Rhône Cairanne Cuvée Pigee les Amandiers 1995: This wine looks a touch more mature than some others. Obvious caramel-toffee oak on the nose, with herby-strawberry fruit. Firm and more restrained than the Domaine de l'Oratoire. A touch hard even. The sweet burnt toffee oak comes through on the palate, mixed with some tannin. 16/20

Domaine Le Clos des Cazaux Gigondas Cuvée de la Tour Sarrazine 1995: A moderate density of colour and some maturity here. It's quite open on the nose, slightly spirity, with some bright red fruits. Notes of liquorice and a leafy edge. On the palate it is a bit light, spirity and disjointed. Somewhat confected. Firm acidity and tannin. Slightly bitter finish. 13/20

Chapoutier Gigondas 1995: A good, mature-red hue. Not giving too much on the nose, although there is some herby fruit. On the palate at first it seems quite firm, but soon fleshes out to show a sweet, rounded texture. A good structure, with lovely ripe tannins underpinning the fruit. A sweet, herby flavour. A complete wine. 16/20

Clos St Jean Châteauneuf du Pape 1995: A fairly pale, mature wine. Quite dense, sweet roasted cherry fruit on the nose, although there are green notes of old vegetables. The palate has structure, balance, quite a bit of tannin. It has fruit but lacks texture. Drinkable though. 15.5/20

Versino Châteauneuf du Pape 1995: A maturing wine with a brown rim. A sweet, herby, Grenache dominated nose. Balanced palate, with good structure underpinning roasted herbaceous flavours and some texture. Overall though it lacks body and is a little feeble. 15/20

Chateau Fortia Châteauneuf du Pape 1995: A mature colour. A burnt caramel and toffee nose. Full, almost lush on the palate. Rich and structured, with roasted herb and cherry fruit. A big, full, Grenache-dominated wine. Lovely intensity. Ready for drinking now. 17/20

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape 1995: A densely coloured wine right up to the rim. A complex array of aromas on the nose - the coffee and minty aromas of youth, but also compost, rotting broccoli and a touch of acetone. The palate is lovely, full of cloves, spicy fruitcake spices and dense fruit. Good structure and balance. This wine needs time, a year or two perhaps. 17.5+/20

Chateau de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape 1995: A dense, rich yet maturing colour. A very unusual nose - an aroma of polystyrene cement which is off-putting to say the least. Iodine and red fruits in the background. Good structure on the palate - although the unusual flavour makes it difficult to drink at present. It has firm tannins and a lovely balance. Needs time to come out of what is hopefully just an awkward phase. A couple more years in the cellar required here. 17.5+/20

Clos des Papes Châteauneuf du Pape 1995: This has quite a youthful, dense colour. Meaty, red fruit and strange plastic nuances on the nose. On the palate this is structured, dense, and seamlessly put together. Soft tannins and meaty, acetone-laced fruits. I like this wine - but then I did buy a case at the domaine in 1997. 17/20

Chapoutier Châteauneuf du Pape La Bernadine 1995: Less dense than the previous wines. Roasted fruits on the nose. Balanced and even elegant on the palate. Sweet, burnt character on the palate. Possibly a little dilute though. Ready for drinking now. 15/20