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Southern Rhône 1994
As with the Northern Rhône in 1994, in the south what initially promised to be a great vintage turned into something much more damp and miserable. A baking hot summer came to a fairly abrupt end after the first week of September, when cool weather breezed in over much of France, bringing persistent rain with it.
In the Northern Rhône many growers harvested between the showers, but in the south the vintage is usually a little advanced compared to their more northerly cousins, and so here it is those that harvested early, rather than in careful fits and starts, that produced the best wines. Those that delayed found themselves working with swollen grapes and dilute wine. Chateauneuf du Pape, in particular, has been responsible for a good number of high quality wines in this vintage. (12/2/02)
Southern Rhône 1994 - Tasting Notes
Tasted in February 2002. Click
to locate stockists.
Domaine Les Pallières Gigondas 1994:
A tawny hue shows this wine is maturing rapidly. The nose has dense,
gamey and meaty character. The palate disappoints, however, with an
imposing bitterness and disjointed, peppery acidity. Some spicy notes
can't detract from the drying tannins. Drinkable, but teetering on the
brink of a rapid decline. 14/20
Chateau de Beaucastel
Châteauneuf du Pape 1994: This is a youthful looking red-purple wine. The
nose is at first quite medicinal, but this blows off to leave gamey, animalistic
notes. With time the sweet Grenache fruit also shows well. The palate is big,
soft and round, lush even. The tannins are integrating well, but show through
the midpalate and finish. A high-toned acetone note to what little fruit is
showing in the mouth, but some nice peppery acidity suggests this wine will go
the distance. 17+/20
Chateau Fortia
Châteauneuf du Pape 1994: This richly coloured red-purple wine has just the
barest hint of tawny at the rim. Aromas of toffee oak and burnt Grenache fruit
dominate the nose, but there are pleasing nuances of chocolate and spice, and
with time some animalistic notes. A big wine, with tannins fairly prominent on
the palate, there is also plenty of alcohol, with sweet and oaky fruit. This is
another wine with some development ahead of it. 17+/20
Domaine du Pégau
Châteauneuf du Pape 1994: A densely coloured wine, also with a tawny
tinge. The nose is very expressive, with lots of classically sweet,
round Grenache fruit. There's some well applied oak, cigar smoke and
black pepper complexity. The palate is full and round, with lovely
fruit, powerful tannins and plenty of acidity. This wine has balance and
all that is required for further ageing. 17+/20
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe
Châteauneuf du Pape 1994: Together with the Beaucastel this is one of the
two most youthful looking wines in this flight. The nose is packed with smoke,
plenty of fruit, game, spices, pepper and sensibly applied oak. Sweet and round
fruit on the palate, with ripe though prominent tannins. There is some strong
acidity destined to carry this wine into the future. Clearly a wine on the way
up. 17+/20
