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South African Cabernet

South Africa has a wonderful wine heritage, a fantastic climate, a host of dedicated winemakers, and even its own native grape Pinotage. One thing that has been lacking, however, is the sheer quality, although there are obvious signs that at the time of writing many winemakers are beginning to turn out some splendid wines, many based on Cabernet Sauvignon, but also some on Shiraz, Pinotage and even Pinot Noir.

This tasting looks back a few years at efforts from South African winemakers. I think it shows well how far South Africa has come, as many of these wines were disappointing. Taste more recent vintages of Neil Ellis of Plaisir de Merle, however, and the jump in quality is obvious. (21/5/00)

South African Cabernet - Tasting Notes

Tasted in May 2000. Click to locate stockists:

Plaisir de Merle Cabernet Sauvignon (Paarl) 1995: This wine has a red- purple hue. One of the darker wines in this flight. The nose has canned green vegetables and strange fruit smells. Oh dear! A soft, again well rounded palate, more body. Tastes better than it smells. Pleasant fruit, but marked acidity, some tannin. Unexciting. 12/20

Welgemeend Estate Wine (Paarl) 1992: A moderate red purple colour intensity. Nose of smoky, ripe fruit and crunchy berries. A smoky, medium-full bodied palate. Nice fruit, and those crunchy berries again. Fruit really shows through on the finish. 14/20

Douelle Welgemeend Estate (Paarl) 1994: Quite a dark wine. Nose of stewed fruit, with marmite/bovril aromas. The palate is thin-medium bodied, fruit is acceptable. 12/20

Veenwouden Classic (Paarl) 1997: A deep red-purple wine. Restrained oak on the nose, ripe black fruit. Opens out with time, to develop good clove aromas. Good body. Ripe and intense black fruit on the palate, with vanilla toffee oak. Some spice. A little complexity at last! Has potential to age. 17+/20

Kanonkop Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch) 1995: A dark red-purple hue. Ripe red fruit nose, with vanilla oak. The palate has nice weight, with blackcurrant fruit, obvious tannins and good acidity. Well balanced. 16/20

Kanonkop Paul Sauer Estate (Stellenbosch) 1995: Another dark red wine. Nose has toffee oak and some fruit. The palate has a beautiful weight of fruit, plenty of tannins, and lingering toffee oak provides length. 16/20

Rustenberg Estate Red (Stellenbosch) 1996: A deep colour. Delightful ground coffee beans on the nose, with very attractive brown sugar/caramel, cream, and vanilla oak aromas. Lovely! On the palate there is coffee again, with ripe fruit. A bit light on body, but finishes well with good length. 16.5/20

Neil Ellis Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch) 1995: An unusual appearance for cabernet - very pale, more like pinot noir! On the nose there is stewed fruit, with smoky aromas. On the palate it is soft, round and medium-bodied. Unimpressive fruit, reasonable tannins and balance. Drinkable.12/20