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Sauvignon Blanc Ambassadors 2011

It is now three years since I travelled to London to listen to Sam Harrop MW introduce the InterLoire Cabernet Franc Ambassadors for the first time. It was an instructive tasting, even if many of the flavour profiles I experienced on that day were gathered too closely together at the greener, more vegetal, tomato-leaf and celeriac end of the spectrum for my own taste. Despite my thoughts on the wines, I had no doubt in my mind that the project, which provided interested winemakers with consultation from an internationally-minded Master of Wine with the field experience to advise on harvest decisions and winemaking processes, was well-intended and much needed.

I was therefore glad to hear a year or so later of a sister project, again spearheaded by Sam Harrop on behalf of InterLoire, this time with a focus on Sauvignon Blanc. So was Loire courtier Charles Sydney who said at the time he welcomed "anything that makes growers think....especially if it makes them understand that no-one is obliged to buy their wines....they do actually have to make wines to please the consumer". Whereas the Cabernet Franc Project has a very open feel to it - not only does it allow in wines from a multitude of different appellations and vintages, but also wines not necessarily made from Cabernet Franc (there was a 100% Cot included in the tasting I attended!) - the Sauvignon Blanc Project is much more tightly defined. Not only does it focus only on wines from the Touraine appellations or vin de pays (so no Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, Menetou-Salon and so on), it also looks at a single vintage; it kicked off in 2009 with the 2008 vintage, and this year the project concerns 2010. It would also appear that no other varieties are included, so there is no Malbec sneaking in here!

Nevertheless, despite the project having run for three vintages, my experience of the Sauvignon Blanc Ambassadors has been, until now, non-existent. That was set to change when the four wines described below arrived on my doorstep, giving me an unsolicited opportunity to taste the Sauvignon Blancs - or at least a small sample of them - chosen by Sam and his team, and to get at least get a feel for the 2011 selection.

The 2011 Selection

This year's choices - all from the 2010 vintage - were selected by a team of tasters led by Sam, and his expert companions included Tim Atkin MW, Charles Metcalfe, wine consultant Jonathan Butt and buyers Christine Parkinson (Hakkasan Restaurants), Lucy Clements (Sainsbury's) and Cat Lomax (Direct Wines). Their remit was as in previous years two-fold; first, choose wines which reflect the quality and terroir of Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc in a range of styles, and second choose those which have the best chance of commercial success in the UK market. From a shortlist of 121 wines the Sauvignon-minded sextet settled on an impressively lengthy list of 28 wines which was released in April 2011, prior to their launch at the London International Wine Fair. I was unable to attend to take a look at the entire range, but as mentioned above I have been fortunate enough to have been sent a few bottles.

I have to say I was impressed by the four wines in question. Perhaps my expectations were a little low, but I was certainly ready for wines with much less panache and polish than these. All were clearly made from fully ripe fruit, with little of the raw, searing, mouth-numbing, heartburn-inducing structure that poor quality half-ripe Sauvignon can possess. Instead there were wines with bright flavour, appropriately balanced acidity and more than a hint of weighty substance to them. Assuming these four are representative then the list of 28 wines should provide a safe and happy hunting ground for those willing to look beyond the usual Sauvignon suspects, of which New Zealand - where Sam Harrop trained, with Villa Maria - is the obvious lead player. Sadly, those in the mood for hunting down one or two of these wines should probably get their skates on; this is perhaps the final run for Harrop and Project Sauvignon Blanc, which from the outset was only ever intended to be a three-year programme. I hope InterLoire sees fit to extend his contract; with over 3000 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc planted outside the famous appellations of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, and little demand for Touraine and vin de pays Sauvignon, the growers need to continue to work hard if they are to avoid going the same way as the many bankrupt vignerons of Muscadet. (29/9/11)

Sauvignon Blanc Ambassadors 2011 - Tasting Notes

Tasted in September 2011. Click to locate stockists.

Château de Quinçay Ante Vinum Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2010: Diam cork. An attractive, pale to almost translucent hue. The nose has some lovely ripe fruit, but with a classic Sauvignon Blanc gooseberry essence, with citrus notes. There is nothing vegetal here. The palate carries the same lovely depth of fruit with a midpalate texture that caresses just a little, counterbalancing the bright eye-opening Sauvignon character of the fruit and the acidity. Very attractive and certainly worthy of this accolade; I can think of many a lesser Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé which has been inferior to this wine, which has a nicely tingling presence, and yet is mouthfilling, with a more crunchy finish to keep you happy. A really good effort for the appellation. Alcohol 12.5%. 16.5/20

Vignobles des Vendeignes Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2010: A pale hue here, with the aromatics reminiscent of citrus oils with intriguing notes of pear skin and apples, and a trace of gooseberry acting as a firmer clue as to the variety in question, although I'm certainly enjoying the more forward orchard fruit this wine possesses. Very finely textured at the start, a prickling acidity coming through with a very appealing persistence, firm but integrated, through the middle of the wine. There is a lovely flesh to it, slightly stony and volcanic, becoming much more firm through the end and into the finish, where it shows a more crunchy-fruit style. Overall, this is bright, flavoursome and appealing. Alcohol 12%. 15.5/20

Domaine des Souterrains Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2010: An agglomerate cork. A very pale but clean hue here. Aromatically this is towards the bolder and more exuberant style of Sauvignon, with a very grassy, green-pepper, yellow-pepper character, although it is softened by an appealing face-cream suppleness running behind these overt aroma characteristics. A supple start at first, quickly revealing all the bold and exuberant green fruit, all kiwi and greengage alongside the peppers, but with a note of grass too, like that on the nose. Behind it all, there is quite an appealing substance to counterbalance the raw fruit character. Bright and in some need of a little polish, but with many attractive elements too. Alcohol 12%. 15/20

Domaine de Cray Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2010: Synthetic cork. Aromatically appealing, rich in gooseberry fruit with elements of lemon and grass too, and also a richer and rather lactic note perhaps suggestive of crème fraîche. The palate immediately reveals a fine and vibrant acidity, brilliantly vigorous and alive, and with all the green fruit elements seen on the nose. Impressive for the variety and appellation, there is also a denser streak of minerality here giving this wine a little depth behind the powerful Sauvignon fruit character. A good finish, grippy and grassy, firm and well defined, and with nicely polished edges. Alcohol 13%. 15.5/20