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Rioja

Rioja is Spain's most famous wine region, with a history that stretches back centuries. There are a number of quality levels, ranging from easy drinking Crianzas and some Reservas, to the Reservas and Gran Reservas of the top estates which may cellar and improve for decades. Much of the style of Rioja depends upon the prolonged ageing in American oak to which the Gran Reservas and, to a lesser extent the Reservas, are exposed.

The grape of note is the Tempranillo, although there are some plantings of lesser grapes, including Garnacha Tinta (known as Grenache in France). Rioja is divided up into three regions, by far the most important of which is the Rioja Alta (which is also the name of one of the top estates). Slightly to the east are Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Baja, the former producing some drinkable wines, the latter less so. See my Spanish wine guide for more on Rioja and other wine regions.

This tasting was an opportunity to assess a range of Rioja styles, of which some are doubtless far too young for current drinking, especially the wines from Marques de Riscal. Nevertheless it is still useful to open these bottles to assess the wines potential for future development. (11/7/02)

Rioja - Tasting Notes

Tasted in July 2002. Click to locate stockists:

CVNE Monopole Rioja Blanco 1997: A pale golden colour, and a promising nose of tropical fruits and buttery, barrel ferment character. Superb texture has developed on the palate, with great yet elegant fruit, candle wax and bitter almond complexity, and a background hint of woody tannin. Correct acidity. A honey and herbal tea edge to the finish, and a full and persistent length. This is one of the finest, and yet also most affordable, examples of barrel fermented white Rioja of which I am aware. 16.5/20

Cosme Palacio y Hermanos Rioja 1995: A very youthful, promising colour, red-purple, fading to a pink-red at the rim. No hint of tawny at all. On the nose there's a great depth of fruit, with tar and liquorice overtones. Great weight and a creamy texture on the palate, with good fruit as suggested by the nose, and a spicy, vanillin edge. There's plenty of tannin still, and strong acidity. A flourish of raspberry fruit and dry toast on the finish. Delicious, new wave Rioja (Michel Rolland has been involved with this bodega since it was purchased by a Seagram executive in the late 1980s), and great value. 16.5/20

Miguel Merino Rioja Reserva 1994: An appealing, almost glossy, red-purple colour. The nose is very expressive, full of dense, dark, macerated summer fruits, and hints of chocolate. There's some toasty, spicy oak, the aromas suggesting a combination of both French and American - modernism and traditionalism combined. Full and round on the palate, and very youthful, packed with fruit and backed up by soft, ripe yet plentiful tannins, and firm acidity. Great wine, with bags of potential. It's early days for this family-owned bodega, but they have made a great start. 17+/20

Muga Rioja Reserva Selección Especial 1996: A dense ruby-red colour. The nose has aromas of dense, leathery fruit, with a hint of cigar smoke. There's plenty of spicy, vanillin American oak as well. The palate seems thin on entry, and is medium-bodied at best through the midpalate. Good flavour, with strawberry fruit, but seems a touch dilute, and there's a significant presence of oak. A shame, as the tannic structure is good, and there is plenty of acidity, as well as a pleasing, rounded texture just on the finish. I suspect this needs more time to flesh out in the bottle. 16+/20

Marques de Riscal Rioja Reserva 1996: A deep red-black colour, fading to a red-purple hue at the edge. No signs of age from the colour. There's deep pile fruit on the nose, creamy blackberries, blueberries and raspberries, with charcoal, French oak and animalistic, sticking plaster, bretty notes. Mouthfilling on the palate, with a creamily edged texture. Structure comes from some ripe tannins, which dominate the endpalate. Powerful, sweet, peppery fruit, more of that medicinal-sticking plaster character, chocolate and butter oak influences. Sweet tannic finish. There seems to be a touch of brett in this wine, but it is low level and doesn't spoil the experience. Enjoyable now, but is on the way up. 17+/20

Muga Rioja Gran Reserva Prado Enea 1991: I've been looking forward to trying this wine for a long time, as I've had a few bottles making a nuisance of themselves in the cellar for a number of years, and I've heard a few negative comments about it during that time. It has a lovely colour, a dark, maturing red, fading to a pink rim. Blackberry and raspberry fruit on the nose, with faded notes of oak, animalistic aromas, grilled meat, leather and spice, and some volatile acidity. Medium bodied, with tannins in the background giving some good structure. Good savoury edge to the restrained, peppery fruit. Drinking well, although there's plenty of acidity which should help this wine keep for a few years yet. 18.5/20

Montecillo Vina Monty Gran Reserva 1991: A moderate intensity of colour, fading out to a tawny orange rim. Leather armchairs on the nose, with a baked fruit edge. Medium bodied, with somewhat problematic, disjointed acidity. Still has a trace of fruit, with that baked, pruny character, and also some tannin. It also has a pleasant, rounded texture. I much preferred this wine two years ago, when I described it as "on the way up". Seems like I caught this bottle on the way down over the other side of the hill! There has also certainly been some bottle variation, as I recall trying this in a restaurant, also about two years ago, when I enjoyed it even more. With this tasting, however, I can only recommend that you drink up. 14/20

La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904 1989: Considerable development since I last tasted this wine. The colour has taken on a tawny hue, but is still deep and predominantly red. The nose has aromas of tanned leather, animal fur and spice, but still hints at a fading youth with black cherry and coffee nuances. Richly textured on the palate, with fine balance, although still quite a body of tannin. Flavours mirror the nose, with leather, game, spicy oak and fading fruit. Quite some evolution since the last bottle in November 2000. Perhaps there is some bottle variation here also, as these seem to be quite dramatic changes over such a short period of time. 18.5+/20

Marques de Riscal Gran Reserva Rioja 1994: A lovely colour, and a nose rich with fruit, liquorice and spicy American oak at first, leading into a powerful, tannic palate full of potential. With about five hours in the glass there is some appreciable development, with an attractive, almost floral, perfume developing on the nose, with hints of caramel and smoke. The palate takes on an elegant stance, and although the tannins are still very apparent they do not dominate. There is lovely fruit and correct acidity. This wine is still very much on the way up. 17.5+/20