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New Producers, New Wines
These are notes from a tasting of 'new' wines, either new cuvées from old favourites such as Jaboulet, new vignerons, or in some cases wines from long established producers that I have simply never tried before. (16/1/01)
New Producers, New Wines - Tasting Notes
Tasted in January 2001. Click
to locate stockists.
Jaboulet
Crozes-Hermitage Domaine Raymond Roure 1996: Rhône
drinkers will be familiar with Jaboulet's
Crozes-Hermitage from Domaine de Thalabert, but a more
recent acquisition is the Domaine Raymond Roure. This wine has a dark, deep
purple hue. Caramel oak on the nose. A rich mouthfeel on the palate, with big,
sweet, spicy fruit. Another wine with too much toffee oak for me at present, but
it may integrate with time. 17+/20
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Chapoutier
Crozes-Hermitage Les Varonniers 1995: This is
Chapoutier's second vintage of his top Crozes-Hermitage cuvée, the first being
1994. A red purple hue, with a massive amount of fruit, some toffee oak and
smoky notes. A little austere on the palate, lots of toffee oak but with an
equal abundance of fruit. Very tannic, it needs more time in bottle.
18.5+/20
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Dumazet Cornas Cuvée Charlemagne 1996: Here is a wine with which we were
all unfamiliar - a Cornas from Pierre Dumazet, a Condrieu
grower with an excellent reputation. A dark red-purple
wine. A wonderfully aromatic nose of cloves, with smoky,
medicinal and oil of orange notes. On the palate the wine
is quite elegant, with a medium bodied, supple texture.
Lots of alcohol and some sweet, floral fruit. Still quite
tannic. A sweet, elegant finish with good length. 18+/20
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Thierry Allemand Cornas Les Chaillots 1996:
Since 1990 Thierry Allemand has split his production into two cuvées, this and
the Reynard. An intense, opaque, purple-black wine. Compost, smoke and cordite
on the nose. A very, very tannic palate, with big, black fruit and a lovely
texture. Big, oaky finish. Very backward. 17.5+/20
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Thierry Allemand Cornas
Reynard 1994: Allemand's other cuvée, produced from vines purchased from
Noël Verset. Also a deep purple hue, but less opaque. Blackberry fruit nose,
followed by a richly fruited palate. Lovely, firm tannins, although quite
prominent and still to integrate fully. Some notes of cloves and oil of oranges.
A lovely wine. 17.5+/20
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Jaboulet Cornas Domaine de
St-Pierre 1995: From the St-Pierre estate, which
lies behind the Reynard and Les Chaillots vineyards, and which was purchased by
Jaboulet in 1993. This wine has big, black fruit and oak on the nose. The palate
is rich in fruit and spice, with smoky, charred aromas. Tannins are integrating
nicely. 17/20
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Burgaud Côte-Rôtie
1995: A long established producer, but not one we
taste regularly. A floral element to the nose, with some
toasty oak and grilled sausage aromas. Spicy, floral,
sweet black fruit on the palate, with a rich mouthfeel.
Lots of fruit on the finish. A delightful, elegant wine. 18+/20
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Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie 1995: As with Burgaud,
a well established producer that we simply don't taste very often. The nose here
is laden with toffee and vanilla oak. Big sweet fruit on the palate, with more
oak. This needs a lot of bottle age if it is ever to absorb all this wood.
15.5+/20
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Delas Hermitage Les Bessards
1996: This is the top cuvée from Delas, produced only in great vintages such
as 1990 and 1991. Deep purple colour. Sweet berry fruits on the nose, with lots
of oak. A similar profile on the palate, with lots of tannin, and a rich yet
elegant mouthfeel. This wine needs a lot of time, but has a lot of potential.
18+/20
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Domaine Bois de Boursan
Châteauneuf du Pape 1995: Although long established,
Jean Versino has made a significant improvement in
quality at this estate only in recent years. Despite
this, it has previously not been a regular wine at my
tastings. With a red-mahogany colour, it is the slightly
darker of the two wines in this flight. The nose has
curry spices and a touch of rubber. Sweet red fruit on
the palate, quite floral, with good peppery alcohol. A
sweet finish with a pleasant length. 16/20
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Domaine Font de Michelle Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée
Etienne Gonnet 1996: Again, a
well established name, but the Etienne Gonnet Cuvée is not one I had tasted
before. There is good reason to, however, as it is regarded by some as one of
the top wines of the appellation. A less dark, purple red colour. A liquorice,
toffee and caramel nose. The palate is big and sweet, with summer berry fruits
and bags of toffee oak - too much for me at present. A luscious and full
texture, oaky, with a big, fruit laden finish. I would have to leave this in the
cellar in the hope that oak may integrate a little more. 16.5+/20
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