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New Producers, New Wines

These are notes from a tasting of 'new' wines, either new cuvées from old favourites such as Jaboulet, new vignerons, or in some cases wines from long established producers that I have simply never tried before. (16/1/01)

New Producers, New Wines - Tasting Notes

Tasted in January 2001. Click to locate stockists.

Crozes-Hermitage

Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Domaine Raymond Roure 1996: Rhône drinkers will be familiar with Jaboulet's Crozes-Hermitage from Domaine de Thalabert, but a more recent acquisition is the Domaine Raymond Roure. This wine has a dark, deep purple hue. Caramel oak on the nose. A rich mouthfeel on the palate, with big, sweet, spicy fruit. Another wine with too much toffee oak for me at present, but it may integrate with time. 17+/20

Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Les Varonniers 1995: This is Chapoutier's second vintage of his top Crozes-Hermitage cuvée, the first being 1994. A red purple hue, with a massive amount of fruit, some toffee oak and smoky notes. A little austere on the palate, lots of toffee oak but with an equal abundance of fruit. Very tannic, it needs more time in bottle. 18.5+/20

Cornas

Dumazet Cornas Cuvée Charlemagne 1996: Here is a wine with which we were all unfamiliar - a Cornas from Pierre Dumazet, a Condrieu grower with an excellent reputation. A dark red-purple wine. A wonderfully aromatic nose of cloves, with smoky, medicinal and oil of orange notes. On the palate the wine is quite elegant, with a medium bodied, supple texture. Lots of alcohol and some sweet, floral fruit. Still quite tannic. A sweet, elegant finish with good length. 18+/20

Thierry Allemand Cornas Les Chaillots 1996: Since 1990 Thierry Allemand has split his production into two cuvées, this and the Reynard. An intense, opaque, purple-black wine. Compost, smoke and cordite on the nose. A very, very tannic palate, with big, black fruit and a lovely texture. Big, oaky finish. Very backward. 17.5+/20

Thierry Allemand Cornas Reynard 1994: Allemand's other cuvée, produced from vines purchased from Noël Verset. Also a deep purple hue, but less opaque. Blackberry fruit nose, followed by a richly fruited palate. Lovely, firm tannins, although quite prominent and still to integrate fully. Some notes of cloves and oil of oranges. A lovely wine. 17.5+/20

Jaboulet Cornas Domaine de St-Pierre 1995: From the St-Pierre estate, which lies behind the Reynard and Les Chaillots vineyards, and which was purchased by Jaboulet in 1993. This wine has big, black fruit and oak on the nose. The palate is rich in fruit and spice, with smoky, charred aromas. Tannins are integrating nicely. 17/20

Côte-Rôtie

Burgaud Côte-Rôtie 1995: A long established producer, but not one we taste regularly. A floral element to the nose, with some toasty oak and grilled sausage aromas. Spicy, floral, sweet black fruit on the palate, with a rich mouthfeel. Lots of fruit on the finish. A delightful, elegant wine. 18+/20

Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie 1995: As with Burgaud, a well established producer that we simply don't taste very often. The nose here is laden with toffee and vanilla oak. Big sweet fruit on the palate, with more oak. This needs a lot of bottle age if it is ever to absorb all this wood. 15.5+/20

Hermitage

Delas Hermitage Les Bessards 1996: This is the top cuvée from Delas, produced only in great vintages such as 1990 and 1991. Deep purple colour. Sweet berry fruits on the nose, with lots of oak. A similar profile on the palate, with lots of tannin, and a rich yet elegant mouthfeel. This wine needs a lot of time, but has a lot of potential. 18+/20

Châteauneuf du Pape

Domaine Bois de Boursan Châteauneuf du Pape 1995: Although long established, Jean Versino has made a significant improvement in quality at this estate only in recent years. Despite this, it has previously not been a regular wine at my tastings. With a red-mahogany colour, it is the slightly darker of the two wines in this flight. The nose has curry spices and a touch of rubber. Sweet red fruit on the palate, quite floral, with good peppery alcohol. A sweet finish with a pleasant length. 16/20

Domaine Font de Michelle Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Etienne Gonnet 1996: Again, a well established name, but the Etienne Gonnet Cuvée is not one I had tasted before. There is good reason to, however, as it is regarded by some as one of the top wines of the appellation. A less dark, purple red colour. A liquorice, toffee and caramel nose. The palate is big and sweet, with summer berry fruits and bags of toffee oak - too much for me at present. A luscious and full texture, oaky, with a big, fruit laden finish. I would have to leave this in the cellar in the hope that oak may integrate a little more. 16.5+/20