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Fifty Great Portuguese Wines 2011 Part 2

The Portuguese Top 50 Tasting has always been dominated by red wines (I would love to see a 50/50 selection, but doubt that will ever happen!), and the 2011 tasting was no exception. Although in previous years I have found wines of quality to pop up from every region, this year I felt the selection from the Douro to be far and away the strongest. There were particularly strong showings from Alentejo, in the shape of the 2007 Pera Manca Tinto and the 2007 Malhadinha Nova Marias da Malhadinha, and also from the Dão, which was represented by the 2008 Dão Sul Cabriz Reserva, but these regions were put to shame by the Douro, which firmly stamped its supremacy on this tasting. Here, names such as Quinta do Vallado, Niepoort (would any Portuguese tasting be complete without something from the ever-experimenting Dirk Niepoort?), Chryseia (a joint venture involving the Prats family of Bordeaux, and the Symington family of Portugal), Quinta do Portal, Quinta da Romaneira and one wine which I am increasingly familiar with, Pintas, from Wine & Soul, perhaps better known as husband-and-wife team Jorge Serôdio Borges and Sandra Tavares da Silva.

There were, it has to be said, a couple of wines expressing some problems on the day. The 2001 Quinta das Bagueiras Garrafeira, decanted from a rather imposing magnum, was undoubtedly the most troubled; I know from seeing reports on the London tasting that some really appreciated this wine (and perhaps it was showing better in London) but here in Edinburgh the first taste was riddled with oxidation and lacked appeal, and although the second freshly-opened magnum was less overt it was definitely walking the same path. Another going the same way was the 2004 Quinta da Falorca Lagar Reserva, which on first taste was oxidised, whereas the second seemed cleaner in this respect, but still struggled with freshness and fruit profile. But these problems are to be expected of course. If you were to pull 50 wines from up and down the Loire from my cellar, I am quite certain you would not find 50 wines in pristine condition.

Hmmm....now that's an idea. The 50 Top Loire Valley Wines Roadshow. Who can I induce to sponsor that? And how can I guarantee I get to go first? And how do I persuade Domaine Huet to submit the 1947 Le Haut Lieu Moelleux? Questions, questions...

I will begin making my plans immediately. In the meantime, here are my notes on the red wines from the 2011 Top 50 Portuguese line-up. Of note, one wine seemed to be missing from the tasting, the 2007 Vale da Mata Tinto Reserva, a blend of Aragonez, Syrah and Touriga Nacional from Lisboa. Otherwise, my notes below complete my report on the tasting. For my opinions on the white wines in Tom Cannavan's 2011 selection, please see part one. The notes are presented as per the order of tasting. (23/6/11)

Portuguese Reds 2011 - Tasting Notes

Tasted in Edinburgh in June 2011. Click to locate stockists.

Henrique Uva Vinhas da Ira 2006: This blend of Alfrocheiro, Aragonez, the red-fleshed Alicante Bouschet and Touriga Nacional has rather a soft and sweet fruit presence on the nose, with a smoky, burnt-butter tinge. There is a somewhat baked, burnt-jam character to it as well, and with the little pastry (oak related?) notes coming in it does seen rather redolent of a home-baked jam tart. Underneath it all there is a fresh lift though, reminiscent of herb butter, and a bright, red-fruit crispness which suggests raspberry. Rather an oak-polished start to the palate, a solid middle, quite some grip here, with soft and somewhat plump fruit sitting on top of some very bright acidity. It has freshness despite that baked jam character on the nose. An attractive wine, despite the short, crunchy, oak-tarred finish. 15.5/20

Quinta Donna Maria Tinto 2004: This is 100% Alicante Bouschet. The fruit here has a rather gamey edge to it, with a rather dense and solid feel, redolent of blackcurrants with a wild, feral rather than fresh character. There is also a rather floral, brighter element to it in the background though. The palate has a very gentle start, showing rather a hollowed out substance, but it builds a little within moments and maintains a rather elegant stance through the midpalate, the tannins ripe and crunchy but nicely tucked in underneath the substance of the wine, only really showing their bite at the very end. Overall, attractive. 15/20

Pera Manca Tinto 2007: This rather pricey wine is a blend of Aragonez and Trincadeira. A very restrained aromatic profile here, with suggestions of wild and gamey fruit, but it is well polished down, and alongside there are pretty although also restrained floral elements. You get a sense the edges have been rounded off here with some old oak, although there is nothing intrusive. It feels quite evolved, despite its youth related to some time in wood, perhaps? Also there are some darker elements coming in, more substantial, opening out in the glass. Black fruit notes, and then with more time overt notes of toffee sprinkled with rosemary and freeze-dried raspberry. The palate is very elegantly polished, fine and well defined, with a gentle seam of fruit slowly building through the middle into a more layered, complex structure. Certainly a delicious substance and structure to it. Fine fruit density, but very well-honed, and overall balanced. Some length too. This needs some time to come together but it has really interesting potential. 17.5+/20

Terrenus Reserva 2007: A field blend of old bush vines, this is rather more dense and glossy than some of the opening wines. This has a very 'international' feel to it on the nose, showing a warm and open fruit profile, sweet and concentrated fruit, with nuances of cardamom, all underpinned by a layer of oak with an undeniable warm, golden, honeyed feel signifying some fairly new wood here. The same character comes though on the palate, sweet fruit with polished oak, with quite a fair density to it, and not a hair out of place. An appealing wine, with some interesting nuances, but for me the supple new oak plays too much of a role here. Certainly nicely composed though, with a fine seam of ripe, well concealed tannins. 15.5/20

Scala Coelli Tinto 2007: We have moved on to Touriga Nacional here. This has rather a sweet, sugar-dusted plum-skin fruit on the nose, with a smoky edge, rather reminiscent of fried fennel seed with notes of dill coming in too. Suggestions of hot, smoky, sun-baked stones follow on, and then there are little notes of toffee coming in, as well as a curranty edge. Very polished and yet light start on the palate, showing perfumed red fruit character, fresh and feminine, with some powdery substance appearing in the middle along with some substantial tannins. The toffee-tinged depth to the fruit shows through in the middle too. A rather appealing, elegant presence, although there is an obvious seam of grainy tannin beneath. And a firm finish with some length. This could go some distance I think. 16/20

Mouchão Tinto 2006: A blend of Trincadeira and Alicante Bouschet. A really distinctive aromatic profile to this wine, rather high-toned, certainly bright and lifted, with hints of coconut, mint and dark chocolate, and a much firmer seam of black liquorice. Also a touch of rubber here, although this seemed to blow off in the glass. Quite a substantial start to the palate, showing a rather creamy presence, and it brings all the coconut and mint with it. Then, from underneath the creamy substance, a broadside of youthful tannins and spicy grip, with some high-level defining acidity. An impressively hewn wine which clearly needs some time, but it has a fascinating and rather challenging composition which I like. 16/20

Solar dos Lobos Grande Escolha 2008: This wine, a blend of Alicante Bouschet and Touriga Nacional, has dark fruits on the nose, singing in a very bright and clear voice, the aromatic profile defined and lifted, with a firm, sweet plum-skin character. Enveloping it at present though there is a dark seam of oak, but the fruit wins out, suggesting a rich concentration. It has a very ripe, plump feel despite that initial clarity. A youthful, glossy, lightly creamy palate, with a very supple feel to it. Underneath there is quite a core of tannins and plenty of bright grip, and fine acidity, but the fruit sits over the top in a rather youthful, disparate style at present. An attractive wine, although it does seem a little modern and obvious. 15.5/20

Malhadinha Nova Marias da Malhadinha 2007: This is a blend of Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet Sauvignon. The colour here is a little more faded than many of the more youthful looking wines present here, although this is no pensioner. The nose also comes across as evolved and elegant, although with perhaps no shortage of substance. There is a faint high-toned edge to the fruit, which has balsamic and sweetly floral nuances. The palate starts off with a defined elegance as the nose suggested, and although it develops a good substance through the middle, with a building tannic spice, happily this feeling never fades. Even on the finish, the finely honed fruit sits with the grippy tannic backbone, I like the feminine style shown here. Really rather delicious, and capable of some fine development with time in bottle I am sure. 17/20

Quinta do Francês Tinto 2008: A multinational blend of Aragonez and Trincadeira, as well as Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Really concentrated dark fruits on the nose here, with a little feral and wild tinge to them, along with a dark and charcoaly feel. It has a brooding, chewy, sense to it that seems strangely familiar and I'm not surprised to see that this wine originates from a schistous terroir. The palate has a very featureless, polished feel at first, with a soft pillowy shell of fruit with no immediate sense of anything within. This feeling is reversed on the midpalate though, when the obvious schisty substance becomes apparent. Bold spicy fruit, meaty, a structured wine. Rather appealing in terms of its substance but there crunchy, crystalline elements on the finish which do seem a little incongruous. 15.5/20

Luís Pato BTT 2009: I think BTT relates to the varieties here, which are Baga, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Cão. Quite a distinctive nose here, with black cherry fruits first but it also shows such an intense mentholated and perfumed nature that I don't know whether to think first of soap or toothpaste. Certainly it has stony suggestions, of light pumice stone especially. The palate seems a little unbalanced, with overly soft and supple fruit and a thin spear of acidity trying to cut through it in the very centre of the wine, and not really managing. Soft, creamy, with a rather clunky finish, and more of those green minty elements seen on the nose. A wine for the bathroom? This doesn't appeal. 13/20

Quinta das Bagueiras Garrafeira 2001: A cuvée from old-vine Baga. This comes in an impressive-looking magnum, and has been decanted. The first sample I tasted showed a maturing hue in keeping with its age, but there was a rather overt seam of oxidation on the nose, giving it an overly warm, raisined and baked-fruit character, with more than a suggestion of tawny port. The palate is soft and similarly oxidised, with a spicy character to it. A twist of rubber here too, and no shortage of tannic structure and grip, and a dry and woody finish. Having requested a second taste from a new magnum, this shows a much better character, the mature, undergrowthy, elements here are very reminiscent of a fading claret. There is a very faint suggestion of oxidation coming in here in the aromatics, but more tolerable than the first wine. There is no denying that rather chewy, toffee-tinged character on the palate though. Full and substantial palate, just with a slightly raw structure, but it is going over here more than it was on the nose. For my palate, this is dead. If you decide to buy any drink immediately, maybe on the way home from the wine store. 12/20

Quinta dos Termos Selecção 2007: This blend of Trincadeira, Rufete and Touriga Nacional shows some sweet and bright fruit, but there is also an overt layer of oak, as well as a very floral element here, and a little gaminess too. The crunchy raspberry fruit is laced with less appealing toffee notes. A rather solid and clean palate, not so expressive here, light-footed although there is certainly substance to it, but also an elegant balance with fresh acidity and a fine tannic grip. A rather short finish, although there is a pile of tannin here to fool the unwary. This seems competently made but it doesn't seem to be saying an awful lot. But the composition is nice - it may develop into something quite interesting given some time in the cellar. 15.5/20

Quinta dos Roques Touriga Nacional 2008: Pure Touriga Nacional here, aromatically really attractive, concentrated, dark and defined, this is a wine that gives the sense of brooding fruit, but it is all well tucked in, bright and well formed. There is a little suggestion of a savoury character around it, a slightly warm-earth nuance, with a fruit-skin intensity too. As it opens up it shows some dark, smoky, crackling embers and roasted meats. A really lovely substance on the palate, starting off quite creamy and them showing a more crunchy element through the middle, as well as a building presence. This is youthful and unintegrated but I sense some promise here. Rather a powerfully grippy finish too, with just a little astringency of fruit here. 15.5/20

Quinta do Lemos White Label 2007: A blend seemingly led by Touriga Nacional, with some other undisclosed varieties. Bright fruit here, with elements of tomato leaf and strawberry, and a fairly concentrated red-fruit compote underneath it all. It is not the most expressive of wines though. It has a rather dry and hollow start, then in the middle a crunchy-grainy seam of tannins really starts to dominate, bringing a peppery attack to the wine, along with a lightly creamy substance. Lots of white pepper in the finish. A crunchy structure beneath a velvety cloak. It needs time to integrate. 15/20

Fontes da Cunha Munda Touriga Nacional 2008: Pure Touriga Nacional here, bright and stony, with a real sandy, primrose and chalk feel to the lightly aromatic, perfumed red fruits. Lifted, gently mineral, but it is the floral strength that is most striking, with rose petals and peony to the fore, all backed up by appealing notes of charcoal and graphite. Slightly smoky too. An appealing composition on the start of the palate, very defined and with some weight despite that pretty nose, and a very harmonious layer of tannins within the wine. Again though they do take on a peppery quality towards the end of the palate. It certainly holds some appeal though, aromatically at least. One of the more convincing wines in this selection. 16.5/20

Quinta da Falorca Lagar Reserva 2004: This is a blend featuring Touriga Nacional, Aragonez and Alfrocheiro, although other undeclared varieties also play a role I think. The nose here is rather inexpressive, and strangely there are traces both of rubber (although it is subtle), suggesting reduction, as well as a rather faint toffee and nut suggestion of oxidation, which seems unusual! It feels rather dry and woody. The palate has a rich seam of slick maturing fruit, but it is oxidation that is most apparent here, much more evident here than it was on the nose. A second bottle requested clearly has a cleaner style; there is still a very dense, slightly gamey fruit character though, and it still seems rather rubbery too. Is it reduced or oxidised? Notes of smoked meats. A fresher palate, cleaner fruit, rather perfumed in fact, with a chalky red fruit character. Quite a grippy style in the finish. A substantial wine. I can't be too confident with the way these two bottles are showing though. 14?/20

Dão Sul Cabriz Reserva 2008: This is Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro and Tinta Roriz. It has a seam of rather warm, soft, alcohol-macerated fruits here, showing a gentle maturity in the form of decaying undergrowth, with a little wild and foxy twist. Rather minerally and perfumed along with it too. The palate is soft and supple, rather pleasingly seductive, with a very gentle and broad feel, but nevertheless one that really seems to connect with the palate. And there seems to be a well-integrated seam of grainy tannin, gently integrating, within the wine. Overall I really like the way this feels on the palate, as it shows a vivid, charming vivacity, and some real energy in the finish. Even if it does have a rather wild nose. 17/20

Quinta Do Corujão Dão Reserva 2007: A blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Jaen and Trincadeira. Another rather warm and open nose here, showing a bright layer of fruit but with a subtly dark, savoury, gamey and meaty element running alongside this. It also seems a touch smoky, spiced with paprika. A creamy start on the palate, where it seems quite detached, with a fresh and bright fruit profile though, it is just the substance of the wine that seems a little solid. Rather a peppery spicy finish - quite a raw structure to this one. Some very attractive points here. It is just in the finish that the somewhat raw astringency shows. 15/20

Lavradores de Feitoria Meruge 2008: Simply described as 'old vines', so a field blend of varieties here I think. Rather burnt, smoky, cola-tinged fruit here, which I always interpret as under-ripeness, and indeed there is a firm vegetal element to the nose. The palate is soft and rather featureless, with a really appealing crunchy grip and acidity which at least brings the wine some vigour. But overall I don't find much appealing here, thanks to that aromatic profile which is immediately suggestive of a wet and cold vintage. It reminds me of some 2007 Touraine reds. I also wonder if there isn't a little bit of rot here. Was it a wet vintage? 11/20

Quinta do Vallado Adelaide Douro Tinto 2008: Another 'old vines' blend. A warm, ripe and expressive nose here, packed with a well-judged black fruit concentration, framed with a very appropriate seam of honeyed oak, and alongside there is a finely judged layer of savouriness. A fresh and appealing style on the palate, despite the obvious weight of the wine; there is a firm core of tannin within the wine, grainy, with a very bright acid backbone too. Around this there lies a very perfumed and fresh fruit layer, combining both substance and freshness. It seems quite open and diffuse at the start, but as the structure comes though it seems rather more integrated and begins to evolve a very silky presence on the palate. And in the finish it has energy and a little power. And it is long too. A really interesting wine which certainly has cellaring potential, although appropriately decanted it would be difficult to resist a bottle now. 18/20

Jorge Nobre Moreira Poeira 2008: Again, 'old vines'. A very seductive fruit character here, dark and very ripe, with a well-polished fruit cream on the nose, showing a concentrated density, but it retains its freshness despite this. A substantial palate, starting off rather creamy as the nose perhaps suggested, but then showing more crunchy elements from the acidity, and also a reasonable seam of tannins. The texture is very fine, cottony, certainly elegant, and yet there is a structure which clearly indicates time in the cellar is warranted. Lovely fruit concentration here. Another very fine selection. 17.5/20

Niepoort Batuta 2008: This is a blend dominated by Tinta Amarela. It has a very stylish aromatic profile, perfumed and polished, and with a plentiful fruit character on the nose, accompanied by hints of balsa wood, green olive, borderline-ripe cherries and smoke. The palate seems softer than I expected for Batuta, but it builds very nicely through the middle to develop a harmonious substance, albeit not a very prodigious one. This is more about gentle elegance, based on just ripe fruit and a slick and silky texture, backed up by some firm tannins, rather than anything more powerful. Don't be fooled though; there is some real meat to this wine underneath these superficial layers, and it will undoubtedly improve with time in bottle. 17.5/20

Prats & Symington Chryseia 2008: A 50-50 blend of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca here. Wow - this has a really characterful nose, very fragrant, with rose petal tobacco, strawberries, toast and a darker seam of charcoal. If an aromatic profile can speak of elegance then this is it. The palate is just beautiful, loaded with substance and also expressive fruit character, a myriad of summer and crunchy forest fruits along with perfumed, spicy wood notes. There is a coat of vanilla oak here, giving it a raspberry ripple ice cream feel, but this will fade with time and leave a more savoury and appealing substance I think. Really very attractive, undoubtedly a very modern but restrained and elegant wine. The palate is freshly composed, cottony and yet with powerful tannins hidden beneath. An excellent wine. 18.5/20

Quinta do Portal Touriga Nacional 2009: Pure Touriga Nacional here, giving us rather an intense and raw fruit character on the nose, showing meaty red fruits with a high-toned edge. Interesting but pervasive in terms of character, rather than suggesting anything more elegant. The palate is very soft and polished, with a very soapy, perfumed, red fruit, chalky and feminine character. The freshness comes through it the shape of flower petal tobacco, floral aromatics with a sweetness, candied red fruits and a soft, rocky minerality. There follows notes of plums, spices, so there is certainly some flavour complexity here, but it remains all very bright and defined, over a supple texture. An interesting and worthwhile wine. 17/20

Quinta do Noval Douro Tinto 2008: A blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Cao. Dense, concentrated and well defined on the nose, with dark fruits overlaid by notes of smoke and vanilla cream. The fruit has a fine, defined density on the palate, showing good concentration at first, then relaxing in the midpalate to allow in some more balanced structural elements. There is a very fine, well judged composition here. This is a very impressive, substantial and stylishly formed wine on the palate, with a well-polished and creamy style. An imposing wine with very high potential for giving some really appealing drinking. 17.5/20

Quinta da Romaneira Douro Reserva 2008: This is Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Cão. Lovely character here, with dark forest fruits, offset by a seam of savoury nuances, delicious, bright and defined. Rich and broad in terms of style, with a perfumed and lightly floral element. This seems very beautifully harmonious but also expressive. The palate starts off very cool, with a fine and substantial character, and a fresh and lively substance. There is a grainy edge to the tannins, and a very fine composition to it through the midpalate. Lovely finesse here, great savoury intensity, and a wonderfully perfumed expression. Very impressive and with plenty of promise for future development; although I could happily drink this now, it will certainly cellar well. 18.5/20

Wine & Soul Pintas Douro Tinto 2008: Back to the field blend of 'old vines' here, which gives us fruit with a very bright and perfumed style, crisp and crunchy and red in character, with a very firm charcoaly backbone to the aromas. But the fruit is pink-red and perfumed, not dark as this might suggest. The palate is rather creamy, full and broad, with a delightful underlying substance. This is principally down to the deliciously ripe and velvety grain to the tannins here, underpinning a very bright and crunchy element to the fruit. Supple, yet with a brooding power within, but overall a very elegant composition. This is remarkable. Although approachable now, such is its silky integration, I am sure this will cellar well. 18.5/20

Quinta do Vale Meão Douro Tinto 2008: More old vines, declared to be mainly Touriga Nacional. Aromatically this is less expressive than some of the other wines up for tasting, but the fruit quality is enticing. It is just that it seems rather subdued, although it is being judged alongside some stiff competition I guess. There is a warm and smoky feel to it, with soft and ripe forest fruits. The palate is supple, pillowy and full of ripe and polished fruit. The style is attractive but very modern and a touch straightforward. It is sweet, bold and pleasing. 15/20

Quinta de Tecedeiras Douro Reserva 2008: Another 'old vines' cuvée. This has a notably dark fruit nose, smoky with notes of smouldering embers, and a firm and savoury character. Rather an attractive palate, although it is soft and lacks form. There is a layer of plump fruit on the top, and underneath some crunchy tannins, but the two seem quite disparate. There is a fresh and crunchy edge to it giving it a touch of vigour, and this seems especially prominent in the finish. Attractive, also rather appealing, but more straightforward than I hoped. 15.5/20

Quinta do Infantado Douro Reserva 2008: A blend of Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional. Warm, animally, bright and interesting fruit profile here, with a dense but soft and relaxed character. Attractive, supple, gently crunchy fruit style on the palate, with a rather firm, hot and spicy flavour profile here. It seems rather feral and animally but there are perfumed elements alongside. Supple, but with a massive, sinewy density underneath it, with really very substantial tannins. Dense, rather solid, meaty, and stylish, although it has a firm rather than an easy-going character despite that perfumed fruit. Overall, an interesting wine. 16.5/20

Afros Vinho Verde Vinhão 2009: This is made from the red-fleshed Vinhão (also known as Sousão in the Douro), the principal grape for red Vinho Verde. Produced from biodynamically-tended vines. Served chilled, from an ice bath. Black cherry and liquorice notes on the nose here. Very cold in the mouth, unsurprisingly, with an interesting bright-fruit character. The texture is gently supple, the fruit stony and fresh, and this is of course exacerbated by the serving temperature. Cheerful and certainly an interesting wine to include in a Top 50 tasting. 14.5/20

JM Fonseca Hexagon 2007: This complex blend features Touriga Nacional, Tinta Franca, Tinto Cão Trincadeira, Shiraz and Tannat. A really attractive, evolved nose here, with sweetly maturing fruit, cedary wood, dense and meaty but also suggestive of some elegance. The palate is bright, fresh and lively, with soft and supple substance, and with an underpinning grip of tannin and acid. The palate seems a touch more rustic than the finesse of the nose suggested, but there is still a good harmony of substance here, although with a very firm seam of tannin beneath. An attractive wine with a hint of perfume against the gamey fruit too. Interesting. 17/20

Vale D'Algares Selection 2008: This is Touriga Nacional and Petit Verdot. Dense and spicy notes to the nose here, the fruit slathered with a layer of new oak which has an undeniable aromatic presence. The palate itself has a very taut and tense fruit character, underpinned by a firm seam of ripe, sinewy tannin which has real appeal. Lots of substance in the finish, showing charcoaly fruit with some fine meat to it. Very appealing, simple but distinctive and seductive. Good value too, looking at the price, which seems favourable compared to some of the more expensive wines here. 16/20

António Saramago Dúvida 2005: A blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira and the curiously named Grand Noir. The nose here is very aromatic, with balsamic notes alongside the dark and spicy fruit. Big, sweet, polished and fleshy style on the palate, with a hot and even more balsamic-influenced style here than even the nose suggested. This is certainly distinctive but for me the flavours, although intense, lack freshness. Merely interesting. 13.5/20

• See part one for my notes on the white and sweet wines.