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Fifty Great Portuguese Wines 2010 Part 2

Although it would be foolish to think of Portugal as having only one style of red, the diversity is less stark than that found in the whites, the wines forming a smooth and more continuous spectrum of styles than the striking variety offered in white. Quality in this selection was high, the wines clearly well chosen. For a hit of something genuinely Portuguese there are many options here, although I was really taken with the 2004 from Quinta do Zambujeiro, a blend of Touriga Nacional with Aragonês, Alicante Bouschet and Castelão, the 2005 Alves de Sousa Abandonado Tinto and 2007 Quinta do Crasto Vinha de Ponte, both complex and diverse blends, as well as the 2007 Redoma from Portuguese guru Dirk Niepoort. These were merely the tip of the quality-iceberg, however, with many more delicious wines on show than this short list suggests.

With a rich diversity of autochthonous varieties to choose from it would be a great shame if Portugal were to be dominated by the more international varieties but happily I can report - based on this tasting at least - there doesn't seem to much risk of this. And why should there be, when one of those indigenous varieties is Touriga Nacional? This grape seems to bring structure, substance and perfume to any wine it should happen to grace, and so it is perhaps no surprise to see it feature in many of the blends on offer. But that does not mean we should ignore those wines making use of 'foreign' varieties, which in this context usually means Syrah, which played a role in a handful of the wines on show. Having said that, on reviewing my notes these wines did not make the same level of impact as those using Touriga Nacional, Baga, Alfrocheiro and the like. Perhaps the most impressive was the 2006 Monte d'Oiro Reserva, a blend of 96% Syrah with 4% Viognier made with advice from the Rhône Valley's Syrah-guru Chapoutier.

My notes on these many and varied red wines are presented here. For my opinions on the white wines in the 2010 selection, please see part one. (25/8/10)

Portuguese Reds 2010 - Tasting Notes

Tasted in Edinburgh in June 2010. Click to locate stockists.

Quinta das Vinhas de Areia Fundação Oriente Ramisco 2005: This is 100% Ramisco. Moderately pale hue. Rather warm, sandy feel to the nose, red-black fruits spiced with sandalwood, with more subtle nuances of tar and liquorice. A very similar feel to it on the palate, very soft in terms of mouthfeel although there is a good grip right at the very bottom of it all, and this comes through in the midpalate to give some grip. Rather pithy fruit character in the finish, with a soft and warm length. Interesting and appealing. 15.5/20

Monte da Casteleja Maria Selection 2007: A blend of Alfrocheiro and Bastardo. A moderate depth of colour and a dusty hue here. A really interesting nose, dominated by red fruits - raspberries and cranberries - with a very slight baked edge to them, tinged with complexities of orange peel and cinnamon. The palate has a soft feel, fresh fruit, supple and gently polished. Quite broad despite this, with firm tannins which suddenly dominate the finish, giving a nice, sappy feel here. 15.5/20

Monte d'Oiro Reserva 2006: This is 96% Syrah, 4% Viognier, 40% new oak, with consultation from Chapoutier. Slightly glossy hue, and a gorgeous nose, with lightly creamed but still savoury dark fruits, with suggestion of coffee grounds and still a little toffee from the oak perhaps. Very polished feel to it at the start, creamy but not blowsy, quite polished and well-formed, with balanced, savoury, tannins behind the appealing fruit. More grip in the finish, with waves of fruit flavours and little toasty, Maillard, roast-meat-like nuances. Really fine potential here and although some will love it now I would opt to leave it in the cellar for a few years yet. 17.5+/20

Quinta dos Currais Reserva 2003: This is 50% Touriga Nacional, 25% Castelão and 25% Aragonês. Savoury, roast-meat fruit here, although reserved in style, with a dry, rocky character rather than one of plush softness. Certainly not mean though. Actually opens out into something a little more generous than the first impression from the nose suggests. Quite a soft feel to the palate which is polished, fairly broad, with quite a peppery spice coming in through the middle with a good-going core of tannins showing here too. These dominate the finish with some chilli spice. Good, lightly chewy, tannin-infused end to it all. 15/20

Filipa Pato Lokal Silex 2008: This is 85% Touriga Nacional and 15% Alfrocheiro Preto (information from ViniPortugal says otherwise, but this is from the label). The colour is deep, youthful purple with a blue rim, and the nose is remarkable, absolutely crammed with juicy fruit but with a very fine stony definition apparent behind the sweetness; although the fruit profile doesn't quite fit the analogy, this paradox reminds me of some of the very best examples of ripe Saumur-Champigny. It gives the suggestion that this will be a dry and stylishly savoury wine, and yet on the palate it starts off with a warm, ripe, slightly sweet-fruited style, although it does become a little more restrained, showing the stony style I expected, through the middle. A lovely character, with exuberant fruit, brimming with character. Beautifully defined tannins. A wine with great elegance; this is very impressive. 17.5/20

Luis Pato Vinha Barrosa 2005: This is 100% Baga from a single vineyard. Great savoury fruit on the nose here, meaty and bright, seemingly quite firm in character. Good substance at the very start, opening out into something a little more gentle than expected, with an appealing, perfumed, red fruit character, with a gentle texture, although underneath it all there is undeniably an admirable core of chalky tannins. Fine and rather elegant in terms of composition, this has great potential. The tannic substance seems quite prominent at times, lending the wine a little austerity in the middle of the ripe fruit, but overall it works very well indeed. 17+/20

Dão Sul Encontro 1 2007: A blend of 50% Touriga Nacional and 50% Baga, this wine has a very open and exuberant nose, showing savoury fruit with a toasty and liquorice-tinged edge, and notes of predominantly black berry fruits although there is a little blueberry fruit here too, also some fresh vanilla-tinged wood. Very gentle at the beginning, broadening out to reveal more of its substance and even some power in the midpalate, This is impressively structure, firm and fine grained tannins dominating the middle, with a well-honed although substantial fruit presence and a very fresh, well-defined feel to it all. Very savoury and polished. Ready to go now - or very soon at least. 17.5+/20

Quinta da Dona Bairrada 2004: Another pure Baga wine, this has a rather more reserved nose than some of its peers, with a rather calcareous character to the fruit, stony red in character with a deep and savoury edge, and touches of roasted plum mixed with earth and tobacco complexities. A very firm style on the palate, rather tight in terms of structure, loosening up in the middle. A very polished and savoury feel to it, with piles of slightly baked plum and cherry fruit, mixed with all these brown spice notes. Lots of grip coming through on a second taste too, an intense laser of tannin highlighting the finish, with a little wisp of high-toned fruit character. Good, but it needs a few years to soften up I think. 17+/20

Quinta Vale das Escadinhas, Quinta da Falorca T-Nac 2007: An incredibly youthful and vibrant sweet red-crimson hue to this pure Touriga Nacional, with an incisive nose, loaded with rose petals, tobacco leaf, bright sugar-crusted cherry fruit and more. A very clean and floral style here. Similarly clean on the palate, showing very direct, snappy fruit with a little hint of soft chalkiness at the edges but overall it is bright, defined and fresh. It shows more suppleness with another taste, also a little hot structure too, with more weight of fruit and grip than expected. Punchy finish. Nice style. 16/20

Dão Sul Quinta de Cabriz Colheita Seleccionada 2007: This is Alfrocheiro, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. The colour has the suggestion of dusty maturity despite the wines youth, but it is the nose that really fascinates here; it shows some fruit, but in a rather dried style, and it is overshadowed by the rich complexities that come with it, with notes of tobacco, smouldering wood and charcoal, perfumed flower petals, cloves and probably much more that I just can't put my finger on. A softly styled palate, seductive, nicely structured in the middle though, structure which prevents the wine disappearing into soft inconsequentiality. Slightly tart-fruit style here, an impression which is carried by the acidity right through the finish into its considerable length. A fascinating wine which has a lot to give if you look for it. 17/20

Quinta da Pellada Tinto Reserva 2006: This is a mix of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. Great colour in the glass, and a rather heady nose, a melange of sweetly perfumed fruit with a chalky edge along with the notes of smoke and fire embers no doubt representing the oak that must have been used here. Lovely character on the palate, following on from the nose very nicely, with a slightly plump feel to the fruit, which is provided a frame by a gentle layer of tannins and also fresh acidity. A lovely bright substance to it, with such a pure definition it is remarkable. A great savoury substance too, before a welcome, tightening, tannin infused finish. This is delicious stuff which is ready to go now, but which will sit happily in the cellar for a few years. 17.5/20

Vinha Paz Reserva 2005: A blend of 80% Touriga Nacional, with Tinta Roriz and Alfrocheiro. A lovely style on the nose, smoky fruit, again showing its oak, this time with a more honeyed character to it, although it still sits very well with the stylishly ripe fruit. Gentle and supple and perhaps slightly sweet on entry, as perhaps was expected, but holding up well in the midpalate, a mix of savoury fruits with gentle acidity and a rich core of rather spiky tannins. The fruit covers this as best it can...and it does a pretty good job. 16/20

Quinta dos Roques Garrafeira 2003: This is 65% Touriga Nacional, 15% Alfrocheiro, 10% Tinto Cão and 10% Tinta Roriz, made by Luis Lourenco. Quite an intense nose here, with suggestions of pine needles with more restrained, backward fruit hiding behind it. A firm character, substantial, slightly roasted in style, quite savoury. Good substance on the palate, gently polished feel to it, supple, showing more powerful structure through the middle although it remains well covered by some finely textured fruit throughout. Good slightly juicy style to it, fresh and lifted despite the intense structure lurking beneath. Great acidity, and a wonderfully savoury finish. A classically structured wine that still demands time in the cellar for this palate. 17+/20

Quinta de S Jose Colheita 2007: A Douro blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca, young vines, 50% oaked in 2-3 year old barrels. A very fresh and glossy hue, with a moderate depth of colour, a raspberry-crimson red. Wonderful nose, totally different to the other DOCs tasted so far; there is a plushness to the fruit here, velvety character even, along with a dark, savoury, incisive mineralliness. A plush start, very ripe in style, with lots of lovely fruit substance. A little suggestion of alcohol showing through at various points here, which don't sit that well with the savoury promise offered by the nose although I guess it goes with that ripe, plush, sweet and velvety character. A nice effort with freshness despite the grip and ripeness. 15/20

CARM Quinta do Coa 2007: This is Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz again, organic viticulture, all from a schistous terroir between 130 and 300 metres. Another crimson-red hue, a little paler perhaps, with gloss again. And sweet charcoal-tinged fruit character here, creamed and swirled with notes of vanilla. The composition on the palate is slightly disjointed, showing texture in one place, structure here, acidity underneath it all, with a sweet plumpness that doesn't quite bind it all together. Lots of good flavour though, with a savoury tannin character, and sweet spice in the finish. 14.5/20

Quinta do Noval Cedro do Noval 2007: This wine from Christian Seely at Quinta do Noval sees Syrah (about one-third of the blend) added to the usually mix of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz. An attractive nose, plenty of perfumed Syrah lift, floral berry fruit mixed with some darker, gritty fruits. A nice substance on the palate, although with an open and rather diffuse character, but with good sweetness of fruit. Plainly grippy, tinged with toffee richness, with a soft and chewy vein running through to the finish. It has some promise but I would suggest a little cellar time to see if this comes together better. 15+?/20

Quinta do Noval Labrador 2007: A slightly dusty appearance to this pure Syrah, which has a nose of fresh, sweet, just-pressed berry fruits, although with subtle hints of wild garrigue and herbs, and little elements of toffee. A really nicely structured palate, this being where this wine really shines, the wines showing a fine presence of fruit, well-defined and nicely judged in terms of intensity and flavour. Sweet but not over the top, and nicely balanced with gentle structure, all hanging together very well through to the finish. A very good effort. 16.5+/20

Niepoort Redoma 2007: A pretty well known wine for Portuguese fans (and those less familiar with the country as well), this is Dirk Niepoort's blend of Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela and Tinta Cão, 60% aged in 228-litre barrels and 40% in 2-hectolitre vats. The colour is very uniform, with good concentration out to the rim, although the nose impresses more with its very polished layer of fruit, savoury and elegant, gently creamed but not soft or blowsy, well-honed and with good lift. The palate shows similar restraint, at first reserved and rather subtle, before it reveals more of its finely-honed structure behind the supple fruit through the midpalate. Really fine, with a controlled grip of tannin that only really comes out on the finish. Very impressive wine which is approachable now but this will only get better with further time in bottle. 18+/20

Quinta do Passadouro Reserva Tinto 2007: This wine, a blend of Douro varieties, carries gloriously fresh and open fruit on the nose, with very dark and yet crunchy fruit character alongside warmer elements of smoke, schist and dark, floral, tar-tinged elements too. The palate has a very soft and warm and sweet character, although with a good definition of grippy tannins and acid at the core. This gives a really bright, slightly spiky character to the midpalate, cutting through all the soft fruit. Just a little toffee here too, which I would like to see resolve. A wine that will benefit from some cellar time I think. 16.5+/20

Lemos & Van Zeller Curriculum Vitae 'CV' 2007: Another blend of diverse varieties from a field blend, sourced from vineyards filled with a mix of different vines. A lovely slightly glossy hue, with a very fine and expressive nose, the fruit character crisply defined and just leaping from the glass. There is a little sense of warmth to it as well, a plushness, and this character comes through on to the palate where somewhat plump and sweet, glossy fruit sits with tinges of oak, grippy tannins and crisp acidity. A good sappy substance on the finish, and a good tannic length, so this is a wine that should do well in the cellar. A lovely sappy style here. Very good. 16.5+/20

Quinta do Crasto Vinha de Ponte 2007: This wine, which is a blend of more than 30 different old vine varieties from a single vineyard, only made in select vintages (the last one being 2004), just cries quality on the nose, It has a uniform hue, moderately concentrated in colour out to the rim, with a red-crimson character, but it is the aromatic profile that first defines the style of the wine. It has a sweet, creamy, vanilla-infused style, with elements of honeysuckle, berry fruits, wild herbs, tar and flower petals. The palate is soft, open, quite creamy again, with plush fruit well reined in by a gentle core of sweetly ripe tannins and appropriate acidity. It won't be to everyone's taste, such is its polish, but there is certainly a strong style here. I like it. 18/20

Quinta Macedos Pinga do Torto 2005: This is an intriguing blend of 50% Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca with the remaining 50% a field blend of very old vines. The nose sings of young and exuberant fruit, slightly stony and reserved but not short of character, The palate is soft and open, with a warmth of character and a slightly brown-sugar sweetness to the fruit at the start, before becoming rather more intense and structure, grippy in fact, through the midpalate. It does maintain that soft fruit plumpness though. Certainly characterful, but a touch raw in terms of composition. 14/20

Alves de Sousa Abandonado Tinto 2005: Another undeclared blend of all sorts of varieties, from plantings over 80 years old, this wine certainly has an interesting nose, quite unique in this line up , marked by notes of smoke, eucalyptus and sweet-savoury, bright but tightly presented fruit. The nose, which has a little high-toned balsamic edge to it, leaves me somewhat uncertain, but the palate is more impressive, with a very fine presentation in terms of structure, composition and weight, all of which combine into an elegant poise in the mouth, Along with this there are fine savoury fruit elements, which are very linear and appealing. A deliciously styled wine here, with fine substance, brilliant presence, and a crisply rounded finish with composed tannins and bright, savoury grip. A fine effort. 18+/20

Quinta do Crasto Reserva Vinhas Velhas 2004: A blend of varieties, from vines more than 30 years old in the Cima Corgo. A lovely nose, full of bright fruit, slightly smoky but sweet and rich too. Very nicely-framed fruit on the palate, fleshy, quite well composed, not too sweet, savoury even, with spice and substance to it. Good quality grip, good substance in the finish, all the components sitting quite well together. This offers attractive quality for the price, which is pretty favourable compared to many of the other wines tasted here. 16/20

Quinta do Vale Dona Maria 2004: From a 50 cl bottle. Another wide-ranging blend here, from more than 25 varieties, again from the Cima Corgo. The nose here is smoky and minerally, with elements of calcareous seashell alongside; this latter element may well reflect the wines maturity. The palate is polished and round, with a sweet substance but with a very dry character, the restrained fruit showing great style. There is an impressively elegant element to it, with gently fading tannins at the very core, with soft fruit all around. Nice wine although not the tightest in terms of composition. 15/20

Herdade dos Grous 23 Barricas 2008: This is Syrah and Touriga Nacional, made with consultation from Luis Suarte. A very finely polished character on the nose here, rich in fruit along the lines of raspberry, blueberry and blackberry, all lightly sprinkled with black pepper, and then swirled with generous helpings of vanilla ice cream. Soft, creamy, impressive in terms of its gentle structure, but all very gentle and reserved, perhaps a little too loose and easy. Good grip underneath it all though, and nice acidity. It just doesn't hang together that well for me today. With time in the cellar perhaps it will knit more tightly together? 16+?/20

Terrenus Tinto 2007: A blend made from mixed bush vines, aged between 80 and 100 years, the varieties Aragonês, Trincadeira and Alicante Bouschet. I don't find this very expressive on the nose, rather quietly spoken fruit the main characteristic to be found, with a very subtle suggestion of burnt sweetness. The palate has a similarly svelte character to the last wine, supple if not rather plush fruit, sitting over and above a core of charcoaly tannins and fresh acidity. Again it all feels a little disjointed, but it comes together with a sudden flourish of bright and integrated fruit and tannin at the very end. Nice length. Another wine that needs time perhaps? 16+?/20

Herdade de São Miguel dos Descobridores Reserva 2007: This is Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional. A dark colour evident in the glass, on the nose this has a firm but reticent style, with concentrated but rather compact fruit with a hint of smoke and perhaps oak. A gently-styled palate, fleshy with sweet fruit at first, staying quite plump and straightforward through the midpalate, with soft tannins and acidity beneath. This is attractive and easy drinking although without great depth or character otherwise. 14.5/20

Herdade do Esporão Private Selection Garrafeira Red 2007: A blend of Alicante Bouschet and Aragonês, this has an enticing nose, rich in dark fruit, with a slight hint of cream, although the aromas are more suggestive of a compact and well-defined style than loose blowsiness. There is a hint of cream to it though, but this is counterbalanced by the toasty smoke. Dry and fresh on the palate, with flesh and sweetness to it, but with a cool composition, fruit-rich and ripe but with a savoury, dry layer of tannins beneath. And there is nice acidity too. The fruit does have a creamy edge to it but it doesn't dominate. An impressive style, with a structure and savoury finish. Overall this is a very nicely composed wine. 16.5+/20

Herdade do Rocim Grande Rocim 2007: Pure Alicante Bouschet here, and it has that nose (which I have found once or twice in the Loire before now) of sweet but tightly coiled fruit mixed with roasted, slightly feral meat. It seems to be the sort of character Alicante Bouschet gives when in isolation. Rather soft and warm on the palate, full and with a good core of tannin, with good acidity to match too. Just a little loose-knit at present, it would be better if it were just a little more 'together' on the palate. Still very interesting wine though which I suspect will be fine with a year or two in bottle. It is worth noting though that returning to the bottle later in the tasting it showed better and seemed rather more focused. Good wine. 16.5/20

Herdade da Malhadinha Nova Malhadinha Tinto 2007: This is a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Aragonês, Touriga Nacional and Alicante Bouschet. The nose is really quite elegant and seductive, full of finely composed fruit character with lightly savoury tones to add balance. Freshly styled on the palate, very supple, lightly textured with a very well integrated tannic backbone and some delightfully fresh, slightly high-toned fruit. Fresh, stylish, savoury, lifted and not without substance which shows very nicely at the end, this is a very good effort. 17/20

Herdade de Mouchão Tonel 3-4 2005: Pure Alicante Bouschet here. This wine has a glossy hue although the colour is fading and dusky, in keeping with the wine's age. The nose is full of high-toned fruit with elements of crispy bacon, black olives and fine minerality. A lovely style on the palate, dry and cool on entry, then revealing in tandem a layer of sweet and bright fruit alongside more savoury meaty elements, all offset by savoury and stylish tannin together with good acidity, Lots of structured substance here. Overall a fine effort which would certainly do very well in the cellar, although its sensual components would probably have me opening it now. 17.5+/20

Quinta do Zambujeiro 2004: This is 48% Touriga Nacional, 24% Aragonês, 24% Alicante Bouschet and 4% Castelão, from a schistous terroir, the vineyards dry-farmed. Nicely concentrated colour right out to the rim, and the nose is divine, with purely presented creamy red fruits swirled with cream, tobacco leaf, smoke and more. The palate doesn't disappoint; although not the richest of wines it does have an admirably pure and coolly presented style, full of grip and substance, with plenty of dry and savoury fruit presented on top of a very well judged texture. Seductive, but in a very sensuous, elegant rather than flashy manner. This is an impressive wine which would age well yet further, although it is drinking beautifully now to my palate. 18+/20

Quinta do Mouro 2004: A blend of 50% Aragonês, 25% Alicante Bouschet, 20% Touriga Nacional and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. This has a very crunchy style of fruit on the nose, with elements of sweet cranberry and smoke along with white pepper. The palate has a rather supple substance, quite soft and broadly fleshy, but yielding now with a few years bottle age, showing a meaty and chalky layer reflecting this. Appealing substance, nicely composed tannins providing some grip, coming together very nicely at the end. Nicely done although it has a rather rounded, shell-like structure, the fruit within, rather than the direct and well framed composition I prefer. Good though. 16/20

• See part one for my notes on the white and sweet wines.