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Fifty Great Portuguese Wines 2010 Part 1

Portugal continues its march of eccentric esotericism blended with commercial appeal in 2010 with yet another well-chosen selection of wines for the annual Top 50 Portuguese Wines roadshow. This year the wines have been selected by the palate of Sarah Ahmed (pictured below, delivering an impassioned presentation on the wines during the tasting), a fellow judge on the Loire Decanter World Wine Awards who clearly also has a very knowledgeable Portuguese string to her bow. The eccentric esotericism in her choice of wines comes predominantly from the fabulous array of indigenous varieties Portugal boasts, not only more familiar names such as the iconic Touriga Nacional but also the much less commonplace Alvarinho, Maria Gomes, Bical, Fonte Cal and Síria, to name just a random handful. The commercial appeal, meanwhile, comes from the easily-appreciated deliciousness of many of the wines, with their well-judged textures, rich flavours and fresh acidities.

Perhaps the big 'story' this year was the explosion of white wines in the selection. It is too easy, looking on Portugal from afar, to think of it only as a red wine country, an outdated opinion biased by knowledge of its long history of Port production (I should acknowledge that some Port is white, of course, but the vast majority is red). But there are some very fine whites to be found here too, it seems. Last year Jamie Goode listed five such wines, dominated by four from Vinho Verde and a singular example of Minho. This year, however, the number of whites included has almost trebled, and the range is much broader, with examples not just of Vinho Verde but also representatives from Bairrada, Tejo, the Douro and more besides. And the quality is much more consistent too, with just two out of the fourteen wines failing to impress in one way or another; that's a very high hit rate. Stylistically there was a very broad range, running from vibrant Muscadet-lookalikes such as the 2008 Soalheiro Primeiras Vinhas Alvarinho, to richer and more polished wines like the 2008 Niepoort Reserva Redoma Branco, a wine more redolent of an ageworthy Savennières or Hermitage than anything else (I hope vinous Portuguese savants aren't offended by my likening these wines to benchmarks which are, to me at least, more familiar).

I kick off my tasting notes below with my thoughts on these fourteen white wines, as well as two sweet wines - both white - included in the line up, and I continue with the red wines in part two. (24/8/10)

Portuguese Whites 2010 - Tasting Notes

Tasted in Edinburgh in June 2010. Click to locate stockists.

Quinta do Chocapalha Arinto 2008: This is 100% Arinto. A fine and bright lift on the nose, aromatic with fresh, slightly juicy citrus fruit elements. Crisply styled, fresh and punchy, structurally very well defined and impressive, most similar to a dry Riesling from a warm climate. So bright and fresh, with herby nuances, but it is the wonderful substance and punch that gives the wine real lift and character. 16/20

Quinta de Ameal Loureiro 2008: This rather soapy-nosed wine is made purely from Loureiro, from biodynamic vineyards. It certainly has a perfumed, lemony, face-cream style to the nose, with the suggestion of volcanic minerality behind it all. Rather soft entry but immediately displaying a rather attractive tingly acidity, although the perfumed and feminine character found on the nose undoubtedly comes through here. An attractive style although it would not be for everyone. Nice mineral-tinged finish. 15/20

Anselmo Mendes Contacto Alvarinho 2008: This is the traditional Vinho Verde variety, Alvarinho. The nose of this wine - which sees some skin contact, hence the name - has a character which does belie this technique I think, with suggestions of ripe, golden fruits. An attractive, and slightly honeyed style too. Good substance on the palate, plenty of depth in terms of structure, composition, and good acidity to keep it all buoyant to. Lovely skin contact fruit character, rather reminiscent of many of those Slovenian wines I tasted last year, where this technique is not uncommonly practised. Really impressive wine which should be a real crowd-pleaser. 16.5+/20

Quinta do Louridal Poema Alvarinho 2007: Another Alvarinho, aged on its lees (and I like that - it does wonderful things in Muscadet). The nose is wonderfully wild, a melange of feral white fruits, wild herbs, furry peach skin, apricot, chalk, pine nuts and more. The substance on the palate is just what I was hoping for; lovely richness and texture, but not over the top, well controlled, with bright acidity and great vivacity, with the honeyed but very fresh and bright fruit sitting very well with a fine, stony, acid core. This is wonderful! 17/20

Soalheiro Primeiras Vinhas Alvarinho 2008: Yet another delightfully scented Alvarinho here, pure and elegantly mineral, rich in gently golden fruits. Bright, clean, crisp, with impressive minerality reminiscent of volcanic rocks and a lightly herby character. Lovely structure on the palate, fine boned, bright acidity, mouth-filling substance, a wine just full of vigour, flavour and appropriate flesh. Savoury, full of gorgeous fruit, this is a superb effort. 17+/20

Vale d'Algares Seleccion White 2008: A blend of 55% Viognier and 45% Alvarinho. Obvious honeyed oak on the nose here, suggestive of barrel fermentation, this masking the fruit a little at the moment. Lovely substance on the palate, fine and full-bodied, although the flavour profile is dominated by the oaky characteristic that comes through on the nose, rising to the point of bitterness through the very middle of the palate. I much prefer the fruit-dominated wines here. 13.5/20

Quinta das Bágeiras Vinho Branco Garrafeira 2007: This wine is a blend of the little-known Maria Gomes and Bical varieties. The nose here is unique; I don't think I have ever experienced a wine quite like it before. We have a very light minerality, a steely-stoniness, mixed with scents of lemon juice and lime leaves, and a quinine-tonic character too. What is unique is its very loose, open character which is difficult to describe. It comes across like this on the palate too, but through the midpalate it comes together much more, with the slightly feral not-quite-musky white fruits carried forward very nicely by a raft of fine acidity. In terms of distinctiveness it wins hands-down. 15.5/20

Quinta do Cardo Síria 2008: This wine, produced from Síria, was served incredibly cold. Despite that it is possible to sense the wine's fine, citrus-tinged fruit, along with a very gentle minerality. There is a little edge of perfume to it as well. The palate opens up to reveal lovely bright fruit as the nose suggested, a very gentle edge of perfume, and a supple, chalky edge to the fruit. Lots of nice substance, good flesh, fresh and balanced, brilliant acidity too. Lovely character with just a little hint of the wild to it. 16.5/20

Quinta dos Currais Colheita Seleccionado 2007: A blend of 50% Fonte Cal, 25% Síria and 25% Arinto here. The nose is divine, a blend of gently honeyed fruit with a defining minerality and a raw, wild, pithy edge to it. On the palate it comes across with plenty of character although perhaps not the style shown by the nose. But there is intense and grippy fruit and great feral substance. What put me off is the strong reductive-sulphurous element to it; whether a naturally occurring complexity or indicative of added sulphur I'm note sure, but this did rather domineer the palate. But alongside there is much that is good here, so those less sensitive to this characteristic may find this wine as lovely on the palate as I did on the nose. 13/20

Quinta de Saes Reserva Branco 2008: Here we have a blend dominated by Encruzado. A very light character on the nose, bright and fresh, but not a great intensity in terms of aroma or depth of character. The palate shows a more impressive substance though, with pure and lively honeydew melon fruit, fresh and packed to the rafters with juicy acidity, with the substance and character to match. A deliciously fresh and lively wine, remarkably subtle on the nose, belying the quality offered by the palate. 17/20

Poeira Pó de Poeira Branco 2008: A wine from Jorge Moreira, a blend of 65% Alvarinho and 35% Gouveio, with a pale hue and a finely characterful nose, full of delicious minerality and gently-honed fruit. Fresh, lightly herby, and full of lift, this is a nose that promises much. The palate has a lovely substance that does not disappoint, a wealth of finely sweet fruit countered by great acidity, grippy substance and fresh minerality as the nose suggested, this latter aspect really coming through on the finish. Good length. Wonderfully fresh and full of desirable, punchy vigour. 17/20

Niepoort Reserva Redoma Branco 2008: Dirk Niepoort's white, an assemblage of Rabigato, Codega, Donzelinho, Viosinho and Arinto - as well as a few other varieties. The nose is certainly full of style, with elements of fennel to the fore, ahead of a layer of fine-boned fruit. Supple palate, there is evidence of oak here but it adds rather than dominates, elements of vanilla and fennel alongside the crisp white fruits, with notes of peach skin, pine kernel, apricot stone and more. Lovely substance, elegantly framed and controlled, Fine and gently fleshy character, this is an impressive grand vin to rival any such wine from Burgundy or even Savennières. 17.5-18+/20

J. Portugal Ramos Vila Santa Branco 2008: This pale golden wine is a blend of Antão Vaz, Arinto and Verdelho, and placed between two much more expensive whites in the Portuguese Top 50 tasting it more than held its own. The nose has honeyed fruit character, restrained and tight rather than blowsy. The palate follows on from this aromatic impression, the broad and polished fruit found here reflecting the honeyed nose. Savoury, with some grip in the finish, this is an impressive wine which would be fine with roast chicken or pork. 16.5+/20

Adega da Cartuxa Pera Manca White 2007: The final dry white is a blend of Antão Vaz and Arinto, and on the nose this pale golden wine shows a really honeyed, nut-tinged style with the savoury richness of a very fine wine. The palate has all the substance of a grand wine, with polished fruit, gentle grip, fine concentration and good acidity. This is very impressive stuff which I suspect will do well in the cellar, although it is entirely approachable now, and gives plenty of pleasure. Pricy, but you do get a great label for your money! 17.5+/20

Quinta do Portal Late Harvest 2007: This is 50% Rabigato, 45% Moscatel and 5% Viosinho. A very typical nose for Muscat which dominates aromatically in quite a heady fashion, admirably sweet and perfumed, as good Muscat should be, tinged with orange pith and chalky minerality, Lovely flesh, soft and welcoming, orange sweet fruit here, low acidity but there is still plenty of character. All in all a very appealing wine in terms of typicity and sweetness, although not the composition - especially the acidity - for my palate. 13.5/20

Quinta da Bacalhoa Moscatel de Setúbal Roxo 1999: Pure Moscatel Roxo. An intense and very rich gold character here, and the nose is certainly equally full of character too. The style is clearly based on more than simple fruit sweetness as I was perhaps expecting, as here on the nose we have aromas of baked earth, roasted oranges, Brazil nuts and a very light suggestion of toffee. The palate is warm and welcoming, fresh and polished but also with the broad warmth of spice, sandalwood, roasted fruit and of course alcohol. This has a seductive character, despite the very 'traditional' style which I find more reminiscent of spiced Madeira than of anything from mainland Portugal. I must confess I find this remarkably appealing. 17/20

• See part two for my notes on the red wines.