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Pithon-Paillé Update, January 2011
Pithon-Paillé
This update relates to wines tasted in
January 2011.
For more on this domaine, including all my relevant tasting notes, see my Pithon-Paillé profile.
One of the must-visit domaines in Anjou is Pithon-Paillé, now firmly settled in their new accommodation - which I first saw when I visited last summer - in St Lambert du Lattay. A few months ago I met up with Wendy Paillé once again, this time to taste the latest releases from the 2009 vintage (which were all bottled between July and November 2010), and one interloper from 2008. The range includes not only the now-familiar cuvées of Anjou Blanc, such as the Coteau des Treilles featured yesterday and the Bonnes Blanches, but also sweet wines, both Coteaux du Layon and Quarts de Chaume.
We kicked off with the dry white wines, Anjou Blanc and Savennières, a mix of négoce wines and also those sourced from Pithon-Paillé's vines. The Mozaïk wines are négoce, whereas the Savennières is a blend of négoce and home-grown as the Pithon-Paillé plot of vines, 0.25 hectares in the Clos Pirou lieu-dit, is too small to warrant its own cuvée. The site-specific Anjou Blancs are produced from their own vineyards in entirety, and it makes sense (to me at least) to work backwards from here. The 2009 Coteau des Treilles (below left: wild fennel and rocks at the summit of the vineyard) had a delicious quality, very close to the level of the 2008 which I have always enjoyed, and thus I am filled with optimism for this cuvée; I shan't shy away from popping a bottle or two in the cellar should any come my way, and with the ongoing work on this site - explained in more detail in yesterday's Coteau des Treilles update - we can look forward to many future vintages of this cuvée.
As for its Bonnes Blanches counterpart (above right: Bonnes Blanches seen from the summit of Les Coteau des Treilles), I am less familiar with it; this vineyard lies on the opposite bank of the Layon to the Coteau des Treilles, and was acquired by the Pithon and Paillé families very recently. As a consequence this is the first vintage for this cuvée, but I am happy to report that I found it to be of a similarly high standard to the Coteau des Treilles. Also of note are new developments on this side of the Layon; Pithon-Paillé are planting here, outside the Bonnes Blanches vineyard, a mix of Chenin Blanc and Grolleau, the former for a dry Chenin (although botrytised grapes will go into the 4 Vents cuvée) whilst the latter will be a vin de pays. They are planting this week, so don't expect any sign of these wines for a few years yet.
Unfortunately the négoce wines did not show so well on this tasting. Now in bottle, the 2009 Mozaïk - which showed lovely fruit and grip when I tasted it last summer, when it had been in bottle for only one day - displays, on the basis of this sample at least, an obvious streak of oxidation. As a consequence this didn't appeal, and I found the same character in the 2009 Savennières, again a wine which seemed so much fresher when tasted last year (again, when it had only been bottled the day before). A review of my notes from my visit last year shows that these two cuvées were full of promise, especially the very attractive Savennières, so if these two samples are representative - and I have no reason to believe otherwise - then this development is particularly heartbreaking. Happily there was no such problem with the 2008 Anjou Blanc, which has been consistently good on every tasting [Footnote: see my piece on Humble Pie with Pithon-Paillé for more on this issue].
The Chinon and Bourgueil cuvées (always négoce wines) tasted here were as classically restrained as ever, and showed nothing of the problem that seemed to be afflicting their white counterparts. Sadly, however, I must report that 2009 is the final vintage for the Vieilles Vignes Chinon cuvée. The Pithons and Paillés have decided that they require the entire domaine, home-grown or négoce, to be 100% organic, and the vigneron who provides them with their Chinon fruit is reluctant to certify even though his vineyard methods are very appropriate. Nevertheless, regardless of how appreciated some of these wines may be, for me the big news is the arrival of the sweet cuvées under the Pithon-Paillé label, as I would like to recapture some of the joy that used to come from the old Jo Pithon wines, such as the 1997 Coteaux du Layon-Beaulieu, for me an appellation banchmark. There are three cuvées, a 4 Vents Coteaux du Layon (akin to the old 4 Villages Pithon cuvée), a sweet cuvée named Belargus from the Coteau des Treilles and a Quarts de Chaume. These all show great promise and I hope I will be able to track some down - especially the latter two - for the cellar and future tastings. (10/5/11)
Pithon-Paillé Update, January 2011 - Tasting Notes
The wines below were tasted with Wendy Paillé in
January 2011. All my tasting notes on Pithon-Paillé's wines, including those below, are collated under my Pithon-Paillé profile. Click
to locate stockists.
Pithon-Paillé Anjou Blanc Mozaïk 2009:
A négoce wine.
This sample from under screwcap - this closure accounting for half of
production. The terroir here is half-schist, half-limestone. Fermentation
half in 60-hectolitre foudre and half in neutral barrels. This is dry and
restrained on the nose, showing a vanilla polish. This element comes through on
the palate too. But there is also a light showing of oxidation- which I didn't
see when only just bottled last summer - running through the wine here . It has
a substantial palate, and is clearly not an easy-going Anjou Blanc. Nice acidity
to it. But the oxidised character doesn't appeal. Footnote: subsequent
assessment of a fresher sample was much better - see my
Humble Pie update. 13/20
Pithon-Paillé Savennières 2009:
This cuvée is a blend of Pithon-Paillé fruit (just 2
barrels) and négociant fruit (23 barrels). Following on from the Mozaïk
this also shows a lightly oxidised style on the nose, again not a trait I
detected when tasted last summer, when it had been in bottle one day.
Nevertheless there is lovely flesh on the palate, the robust fruit showing
through here. A nice substance to it, although it is rather bold. Good and
grippy, but for me the oxidation spoils this. Footnote: subsequent
assessment of a fresher sample was much better - see my
Humble Pie update. 13/20
Pithon-Paillé Anjou Bonnes
Blanches 2009: Barrel-fermented, as is the case for all the white wines. I
last tasted this last summer when it was still showing some post-ferment
character. It was bottled at the end of November. The terroir is schist
and quartz. There is purity and minerality showing here on the nose, all bright
and clean. This is certainly much more appealing now. It seems even a
touch honeyed. A bright and defined style, full, sappy and slightly fat. And
there is a fine mineral and acid backbone though showing in the midpalate. This
is more like it - I could certainly drink this. 17/20
Pithon-Paillé Anjou Coteau des Treilles 2009:
Barrel-fermented, as is the case for all the white wines. A mix of barrels here,
including some larger 350-litre barrels, and 15% new oak. The terroir here is
carboniferous with pudingues stone. This has an appealing honeyed
character on the nose, rich and yet reserved, very full and grippy, with a racy
mineral and acid core, with some nice fatness to it. Lots of substance here,
with more mineral character at the finish. Fresh and stylish, golden but cleanly
defined, with just a little seductive softness to it, and plenty of good grip
coming in underneath. 17.5/20
Pithon-Paillé Anjou Rouge Mozaïk 2009:
A négoce wine. This is sourced from vines half planted on schist, half on
limestone. It has some bright and rather perfumed fruit on the nose, with a
raspberry and blackberry character. This continues on the palate which has
attractive fresh summer fruits with darker tinges on the side. It is supple,
composed, certainly not a massive style, with a more well-poised character. A
tiny tinge of reduction here which doesn't trouble me. It is more reassuring in
the mouth than it is aromatically. Good effort. 15.5/20
Pithon-Paillé Chinon Vieilles Vignes 2009:
A négoce wine.
From a single slope, 80-year old vines, fermented in tank with malolactic in
barrels. This is the only non-organic wine and is the last vintage as
Pithon-Paillé aim for a 100% bio range. The usual fresh style on the
nose, with crunchy fruit, and I find the same on the palate which is softly
fruited with a crunchy edge to the texture. Lightly tannic with crisp acid core.
A good and very classic example of the appellation. Not for keeping though.
15.5/20
Pithon-Paillé Bourgueil Graviers 2009: A négoce
wine. This cuvée has a richer hue, and a warmer, riper style than the Chinon
Vieilles Vignes on the nose. Quite a supple palate follows, with rather velvety
tannins here, and a lightly chewy character to it as well. It has a softly
poised finish. Overall, and attractive and approachable style. 15.5/20
Pithon-Paillé Bourgueil Coteau 2009: A négoce wine. A clay and
limestone terroir. A more crunchy style of fruit here, and aromatically
it seems a touch reduced also. Supple fruit, although with a good structure
behind it. It has freshness, opening out with a little time to reveal a touch of
perfume, but there remains a crunchy, bright edge to the fruit above all.
Overall, attractive. 15.5/20
Pithon-Paillé Coteau du Layon Les 4 Vents 2009:
The fruit for this cuvée is mainly but not exclusively sourced from the vines at
La Fresnaye. The soils are pebbles and clay, and there is 50% botrytised fruit
in this, giving a residual sugar of 110 g/l. The nose is just spot-on - it has
beautiful purity, plenty of evident botrytis even at this early stage, and yet a
very clean and defined sweet-golden style. Supple fruit on the palate, quite
golden but with a bold style to the substance behind it. Great substance running
into the finish, and a solid wave of savoury texture here too. Good acid
underneath, very broad and fat at the moment, but there is fresh structure here
too. Good. 16.5/20
Pithon-Paillé Quarts de Chaume 2009:
A new addition to the portfolio, from 0.22 hectares of rented vines which have
been pruned hard to bring them under control. Some have been replanted. The data
on residual sugar has been revised and is 150 g/l on this tasting. This is from
100% botrytised fruit. Golden fruits on the nose here, with a lemony freshness.
A lovely very polished style on the palate, much more refined than expected,
sweet and with a good acid core. This has a lovely presence. Ripe and missing
the extreme quartziness that comes with the best cuvées from the 2007 vintage,
nevertheless still delicious. 17.5/20
Pithon-Paillé Coteaux du Layon Belargus des Treilles 2009: This cuvée
originates from the Coteau des Treilles, from the final tries of
botrytised grapes approximately three weeks after the fruit for the Treilles
Anjou has been picked. About 1.5 barrels in terms of volume. Vinified in new
oak. Will be bottled mainly in halves, with 24 magnums and a few 750ml bottles.
The figure on residual sugar here has been revised to 180 g/l. A rich golden
hue, from the 100% botrytised fruit. Aromatically it opens out to reveal nuances
of orange and peach. A very bold style, rich in fruit, lots of yellow
peach and orange on the palate too, also rather floral. A supple mineral seam at
the back, a very rich and sweet style, with a soft and fading finish. There is
just a little oxidative streak to it but I don't find it distracting at this
level, in this style of wine. Good. 17.5/20
Pithon-Paillé Anjou Blanc 2008: The négoce
wine, including non-botrytised Quarts de Chaume fruit in this vintage. A
polished, cleaner, more direct style on the nose than the 2009 equivalent tasted
alongside. Lightly polished, with a supple style on the palate, and a little bit
of fatness here. Low level acidity, sitting behind the fruit, giving it a rather
rounded feel, although with a nice minerality to it. Good. 15.5/20
