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A Visit to Pithon-Paillé, July 2010

No other region of France provides us with such a kaleidoscopic array of wine styles as that given to us by the Loire. From bracing and salty whites through richer barrel-fermented styles, early drinking reds and those meant for the cellar, sparkling wines and sweet, if you want it the Loire can give it to you. And there is perhaps no better microcosm of this than the wines of Anjou, a melting pot of styles where dedicated vignerons turn out divine and dry low-yield Chenin Blanc, heady and perfumed Cabernet Franc, fizzy Crémant de Loire and of course all the sweet wines for which the region is justly famous. And remarkably, it is not unknown for these wines to originate from vineyards that almost neighbour one another.

Affordable vineyards also mean the Loire is also a hotbed of new and emerging domaines, sometimes run by very young vignerons, freshly returned from the seemingly obligatory New World apprenticeships. The Pithon and Paillé families don't really fit this mould, Jo Pithon being one of the region's better known names, but Pithon-Paillé - a venture with his stepson Jo Paillé - is certainly a new start-up for them, a young business not long established. It was born from the remnants of the Pithon estate, a handful of vineyards held by Jo when he and his one-time financier Philippe Fournier went their separate ways. That was several years ago now, and aware that they were taking on new premises in St Lambert du Lattay (pictured above) I recently visited the domaine, not to reflect on the events of the past, but to see what was going on now - and what was planned for the future - at Pithon-Paillé.

The Domaine Today

I met up with Wendy Paillé (pictured below), Jo's wife and a South African by birth, who gave me a quick tour of the new premises before we headed out to the vineyards. Still in the process of moving in, Wendy, Jo et al had been busy transferring some of the just-bottled 2009 vintage from their previous home at nearby Château de Fresnaye, where they had been squatting - their description, not mine, and it was with the owner's permission they hastened to add - for the past couple of years. Perhaps the most surprising discovery they made upon exploring their new premises was a secret cellar, the entranceway hidden behind stacked barrels, where the previous owner stored any wines he didn't want to fall under the gaze of the local authorities. Suffice to say under Pithon-Paillé there will be no such goings-on, and the cellar has been opened up for use.

This whirlwind tour behind us, it was a short drive from Pithon-Paillé's new home to the Coteau des Treilles, a vineyard which Jo Pithon brought to the business, and on which I have already written in my Pithon-Paillé profile. But that matters not, as no quantity of words will ever be sufficient to describe this remarkable site, surely the most visually striking vineyard that I have ever set my sight upon in the Loire. The vines run uphill, the gradient sometimes as steep as 70%, and at the very western end I thought the dramatic outcrops of rock around which the rows of vines flowed were faintly reminiscent of those craggy projections that mark the vineyards of the Mosel. Indeed, at the foot of the vineyard lies a small road, and just opposite, visible through the trees, runs the Layon itself, an enigmatic river which served to only to complete this charming, miniature Mosel-pastiche. I had only been here a minute, but I had already fallen in love with this place.

We began our ascent up the slope aided by a small flight of stone steps, running past the aforementioned rocky crags, but our progress was halted momentarily by a wailing cry, the sound originating from a small ditch that runs up to the vineyard. The source was soon identified; an abandoned kitten, black and white, and very feisty despite his predicament. A rescue was duly attempted but he soon disappeared into the adjacent woods, displaying no shortage of energy and clearly in rude health. A plan was hatched to retrieve him later, and we continued up into the vineyard, even as the skies began to darken, and a fine drizzle of prickling rain began to fall.

The Coteau des Treilles covers 7 hectares of which 5 hectares could feasibly be planted to vines; of this, only 2.5 hectares are actually planted up, and even this includes some very young vines. The most recent episode of planting was in 2005, a hot year and thus the vines had difficulty getting established, and it is only now, five years later, that they are beginning to show true vigour and bear fruit. Before that there was a small plot established in 2003, using ungrafted vines; these are not fairing so well, and indeed viewing the vineyard from the other side of the Layon (as shown below, through the grey haze of a drizzly day) it is easy to pick out this section of the vineyard on the left, such is the mortality rate. I hope the Pithons and the Paillés are able to replant the more sparsely populated sections before too long; such a remarkable vineyard most certainly deserves its vines!

Leaving the Coteau des Treilles we drove along the foot of the vineyards, past the many rows of vines and then the giant kilns associated with the quarry that sits atop the slopes, eventually turning to cross the Layon and then driving back through the vineyards, skirting the edge of Les Bonnes Blanches, before returning to the premises at St Lambert du Lattay, where I was able to learn about some new plans for Pithon-Paillé.

The Domaine Tomorrow

As was the case at its inception, Pithon-Paillé remains part-domaine, part-négociant, the portfolio of wines originating not only from their own vines on the Coteau des Treilles and at Château de Fresnaye, but also from purchased fruit, adding a Savennières (which also includes a small volume from their own tiny plot of vines) and an entry-level Anjou to their list of wines for sale, as well as examples of Bourgueil and Chinon, the latter wines vinified in the cellars at Château de Coulaine in order to maintain the appellation.

But what of new developments here? I was particularly interested in any news of vineyard acquisitions, because I couldn't imagine that the team at Pithon-Paillé would be content with such a discrete portfolio of vines under their direct control for long. And indeed there have been developments in this respect. First up is a very small parcel of vines accounting for just 0.22 hectares of Quarts de Chaume, which they have been renting since 2008. Dissatisfied with the quality in that vintage the botrytis-free 2008 fruit was declassified into the négoce Anjou, but things are looking (and tasting - see notes below) much better with the 2009 vintage. Secondly, they have acquired a portion of Les Bonnes Blanches, which lies just across from the Coteau des Treilles, on the opposite bank of the Layon. This vineyard accounts for 0.57 hectares, although other than the 2009 (in which it yielded a dry Anjou) and 2010 vintages there will be no wine from this site for some time. The plan here is to uproot the vines, replacing them with grain for a couple of vintages before starting afresh with new vines and organic vineyard management once the soil has had time to rest. Their aim is to produce a dry Anjou Blanc from this site, with any botrytised fruit going into Les 4 Vents, a blended Coteaux du Layon, the name of which makes a reverential nod towards the old Pithon cuvée Les 4 Villages.

Not content with these new vineyards Jo Pithon also has plans to make a sparkling wine, and he has a very novel concept in mind. Reluctant to add sugar or yeast for a second fermentation, he intends to blend in each bottle a mix of 90% Anjou Blanc - he has three barrels of the 2009 put aside for this very purpose - with 10% of the must from the 2010 vintage. This should be enough, he thinks, to kick-start a second fermentation in bottle. I must confess that this method was not one I had ever heard of before, and I asked Jo if he knew of anyone else making sparkling wine in this fashion. Smiling, laughing in fact, aware that he is going out on a limb I think, he replied in the negative. But Jo is not one to shy away from experimentation and risk-taking, as he demonstrated with a wine I was to taste later, over lunch. But before that, it was time to taste the latest Pithon-Paillé cuvées.

Tasting the Wines

Wendy and I kicked off with the few remaining available wines from the 2008 vintage (many cuvées are now sold out) before moving onto those from 2009. Largely these were the cuvées mentioned above, many of which I have tasted before albeit perhaps not in this vintage, as well as the aforementioned Les 4 Vents. Then it was off to visit Château de Fresnaye, this time with Jo Pithon and Jo Paillé (while Wendy returned to retrieve the kitten, which has now been rehomed with friends). This impressive 16th-century château (shown left) was home to Wendy and Jo Paillé until very recently, the only other resident being - says Wendy - a friendly ghost. The property is magnificent even though it is in need of restoration; it is on the market, the asking price remarkably low considering the gravitas of the building, which sits behind its own moat and drawbridge. Any potential buyer should bear in mind , however, that repair work on a national monument such as this will not be an inexpensive affair!

In the Fresnaye outbuildings is the cave, complete with two vats of as-yet-unbottled wines from the 2009 vintage. The first is the Quarts de Chaume, from the aforementioned 0.22-hectare plot of rented vines, whereas the second is perhaps even more special. Christened Belargus, this cuvée has been produced from a late picking in the Coteau des Treilles vineyard, several weeks after the main harvest which gave birth to the dry Anjou already tasted. Sweetened and concentrated by botrytis, the fruit has given rise to a remarkably rich, concentrated and heady Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu.

Returning to St Lambert du Lattay I joined the Pithon and Paillé families for lunch, and enjoyed the spectacle of comings and going as we dined on ham, boudon noir and salad. We were joined by two other sons; one has left behind the world of the vine and is a pastry chef, set shortly to leave for a job in Orlando. The other, the much younger Jules, is a vigneron at heart I think; his vivacity, comedic sense and enthusiasm were evident, impressive characteristics for one fresh from a gruelling stage at Domaine de Juchepie with Eddy Oosterlinck during which (Eddy had told me the week before) Jules had hand-planted 2000 new vines. Then another winemaker arrived, this one a friend of Jo Paillé, and later an official from the local agency concerned with wildlife habitat. Lunch-time is a time for dropping in on friends, it seems! The wildlife officer is here because the area around the Coteau des Treilles - and the vineyard itself - is a site of special significance, being a breeding site for the rare Belargus butterfly, which has now also given its name to the vineyard's Coteaux du Layon as described above.

Over lunch we retasted the wines, together with some vinous treats and rarities, including a 1943 Bonnezeaux from Domaine de Terrebrune, once the domaine of René Renou, the first president of the National Wine Committee of the INAO, as well as the wine I alluded to earlier, a lunch-time mystery wine. Faced with a glass of something with a deep red-gold hue, with a shimmering-red core suggesting a faded Cabernet Franc, I was perplexed to find the texture and sweetness I would usually associate with a Coteaux du Layon or similar. I was dumbfounded and confused, unable to place the wine against the context I have built up during my years of tasting in the Loire. And that is no surprise, as this fascinating wine was indeed a sweet Cabernet Franc from the 1995 vintage, a wine concentrated by passerillage, an experiment which - judging by this tasting - turned out well, although it is not something Jo Pithon plans to repeat. "It was just to see if it could be done", he confessed, chuckling. There are certainly no plans to commercialise the wine (which does not have an appellation) so it was a delight to taste it at the domaine.

A Biodiverse Farewell

After lunch I concluded my visit to Pithon-Paillé with another drive out to the Coteau des Treilles, this time approaching from the top. Standing at the very crest of the slope afforded an excellent view not only down to the vines below, and to the Layon behind the trees, but also now over the treetops to the vineyards of the opposite bank (as shown below, with the church of St Lambert du Lattay in the distance), including the latest Pithon-Paillé acquisition in Les Bonnes Blanches. As Wendy and I scanned the magnificent panorama before us we could just make out Jo Paillé in his tiny red tractor, now hard at work in their new vineyard.

Although I was not fortunate enough to catch sight of the Belargus butterfly there was certainly a wealth of biodiversity all around us here, in this protected habitat, not least some giant grasshoppers and fat caterpillars, both a striking and vibrant green, the former in the process of egg-laying it seemed, the latter curiously leaf-shaped and not easy to spot. And surprisingly there were a large number of old vines too, growing wild, which Wendy identified as American varieties, once planted in abundance on the slopes in the first days after phylloxera. Small-leaved, no longer bearing fruit, and sadly spotted with mildew, these vines were poignant reminders of a difficult time in France's viticultural history.

But as I wrote in my introduction, this visit was not about looking backwards, but rather forwards. And with Wendy, Jo number one, Isabelle and Jo number two at the helm, the future at Pithon-Paillé looks just as bright as the rays of sunshine that were now beginning to break through the grey drizzle of the day, scattering light and perhaps even joy on the vineyards of St Lambert du Lattay before us. (31/8/10)

Pithon-Paillé, February & July 2010 - Tasting Notes

The wines below were tasted with Jo Pithon and Jo Paillé and family in February and July 2010. All my tasting notes on Pithon-Paillé's wines, including those below, are collated under my Pithon-Paillé profile. Click to locate stockists.

Tasted at the Domaine, July 2010.

Pithon-Paillé Anjou Blanc Mozaïk 2009: In 2009 the négoce Anjou cuvée has been christened Mozaïk. Perhaps a more significant development is the use of screwcaps for half of the production, the remainder set to go under cork. Pithon-Paillé have also introduced a lightweight bottle. Only just bottled the day before tasting. Floral on the nose, pear and sweet fruits, very typically cleanly aromatic young Chenin. Nice grip on the palate, good tingly acidity. 16-17+/20

Pithon-Paillé Savennières 2009: A blend of Pithon-Paillé fruit (2 barrels) and négociant fruit (23 barrels), a greater production than in 2008. Only just bottled the day before tasting. Sweet honey-tinged aromatic fruit on the nose, perfumed pear drops, with a lovely, flashy style. Good grip on the palate, appropriate structure and fine acids too. Good length. This has plenty of promise. 17-18+/20

Pithon-Paillé Anjou Coteau des Treilles 2009: Barrel-fermented, as is the case for all the white wines. A mix of barrels here, including some larger 350-litre barrels, and 15% new oak. Only just bottled the day before tasting. The oak shows on the nose, which has a very smoky, toasty, caramel-tinged quality at present. Good grip on the palate, plenty of good structure, with a touch of whisky mash which I recall finding in another Pithon-Paillé wine (2008 La Fresnaye on reviewing my notes). Judgement needs to be sensitive in view of the recent bottling. I think this should integrate and absorb the oak; I will reassess next year. 17.5-18.5+/20

Pithon-Paillé Anjou Rouge Mozaïk 2009: Only just bottled the day before tasting. Lots of colour here, reflecting the remarkable vintage. The nose follows on in the same vein, with a wealth of sweet and dark fruits, intersecting seams of spice and darkness. The palate is supple, full, lightly creamy, very much in keeping with my experiences of 2009 so far. Good length and texture. For Anjou Rouge, impressive. 16-17+/20

Pithon-Paillé Coteau du Layon Les 4 Vents 2009: This is Pithon-Paillé's new entry-level Coteaux du Layon, the name reminiscent of Pithon's previous cuvée, Les 4 Villages. This cuvée is also sourced from four villages, although St Aubin dominates. A mix of 50% botrytised and 50% ripe but non-botrytised fruit. Only just bottled the day before tasting. Nevertheless it shows well, a rich and golden hue, and a good honeyed, yellow peach sweetness tempered by notes of lemon zest, mint, sage and beeswax. Polished, with good honey elements intertwined with an appealing minerality. Fat but balanced. Very fine. 16.5-17.5+/20

Pithon-Paillé Quarts de Chaume 2009: A new addition to the portfolio, from 0.22 hectares of rented vines, tasted from vat at Château La Fresnaye. 130 g/l residual sugar. Overt botrytis on the nose here, lots of honey and apricot. Supple, fleshy, with plenty of sweet substance on the palate. Nicely poised, very rich, with a great finish. Will go into half bottles. Should be super. 17-18+/20

Pithon-Paillé Coteaux du Layon Belargus des Treilles 2009: This cuvée originates from the Coteau des Treilles, from the final tries of botrytised grapes approximately three weeks after the fruit for the Treilles Anjou has been picked. About 1.5 barrels in terms of volume. Residual sugar 150 g/l. Honey, sweetness, density on the nose, with fleeting scents of sage. Peach flesh on the palate, but also a little bitter grip hinting at peach skin. Lovely honey and beeswax elements, with floral, acacia nuances too, with moderate acidity. Very fine indeed, this may well just have the edge on the Quarts de Chaume. 17.5-18.5+/20

2008

Tasted at the Domaine, July 2010.

Pithon-Paillé Anjou Blanc 2008: The négoce wine, including non-botrytised Quarts de Chaume fruit in this vintage. Organic, half from schistous and half from limestone terroirs. A touch of honey on the nose now, still very attractive, a firmer style on the palate than I recall from previous tastings which I like. Good concentration, substance and acidity. 16/20

Pithon-Paillé Anjou Blanc La Fresnaye 2008: This cuvée which comes from Pithon-Paillé's own vines (there are 1.5 hectares of Chenin Blanc in Fresnaye, planted 1969) has a more honeyed intensity than the entry-level Anjou. Good impact, polished and substantial. Lovely character here, good fat substance at first, later followed up by floral and crunchy fruit. 17+/20

Pithon-Paillé Savennières 2008: A négoce wine but including fruit from Pithon-Paillé's tiny plot. The nose here has honey swirled with minerality, and a fine dry substance on the palate. Fat, serving temperature a little warmer than it should be, grippy though, with nicely attractive substance. Upright and appealingly substantial. 17.5+/20

Pithon-Paillé Chinon Vieilles Vignes 2008: From a single slope, 80-year old vines, fermented in tank with malolactic in barrels, vinified in Chinon before moving the finished wine to the Pithon-Paillé chai. Vinification includes pigeage by Jo Pithon himself. Fresh fruit on the nose, pretty but quite firm underneath. Supple, more so than expected, with a harmonious composition. 16.5/20

Tasted at the Dégustation Renaissance in Angers, February 2010

Pithon-Paillé Anjou Blanc La Fresnaye 2008: A return to this wine, which has now seen out 10 months in 2-5 year-old oak, and a partial malolactic fermentation. There is a tinge of whisky mash on the nose, surely oak-related, which should fade with time. Notes of peach stone too. The palate is quite structured, with some lovely fruit notes, culminating in a rush of orange peel swirled in cream on the finish. Elegant weight, firm, with a fine finish. Really lovely potential here, but needs a year or two to come together. 16.5+/20

Pithon-Paillé Anjou Blanc Coteau des Treilles 2008: Again this wine has had 10 months in mostly 2-5 year-old oak (10% was new), and has also been through malolactic fermentation. This was one of my favourite wines last year. Firm and honeyed fruit now, elegant nose, with a melange of citrus fruit and light cream. The oak has been absorbed well, although visible it does not dominate, being just part of the picture. Nice peach skin and tangerine notes. Quite a reserved, structured finish, more grippy through the middle. Fresh but on a grand scale. Lovely style. 17+/20

Pithon-Paillé Anjou Rouge La Fresnaye 2008: This is 100% Cabernet Franc. Pure, clean, red fruit character here, with good Cabernet aromatics. This is followed by a minerally-stony and floral palate, pretty and quite structured, with a good balance of components. A nice wine with some potential. 16+/20

Tasted at the Salon des Vins de Pays de Loire in Angers, February 2010.

Pithon-Paillé Anjou Blanc 2008: A négoce wine This cuvée comes from organically-tended vines, half on schist providing gras to the wine, half on limestone giving minerality and acid. It sees out 10 months in 3-4 year-old barriques. Lovely fresh fruit on the nose, gentle, mildly herbal too. Nice flavours on the palate, with a nice core of acidity and mineral freshness. This is very good; note it also includes the Pithon-Paillé Quarts de Chaume fruit (non-botrytised) in this vintage. 16/20

Pithon-Paillé Chinon Vieilles Vignes 2008: A négoce wine This cuvée comes from 80-year old vines currently undergoing organic certification on a clay-limestone terroir. The nose shows some finely tuned fruit with a light, daintily textured character. There are some good elements of structure beneath it though, with a more solid base beneath reflecting the wine's calcaire origins. Overall though, a Chinon in a lifted and aromatic style. 16+/20

Pithon-Paillé Bourgueil Graviers 2008: A négoce wine. Obviously this wine originates from a gravelly terroir, just below the village of Bourgueil, from 20-year old certified-organic vines. A glorious and glossy colour, a moderate depth of hue. Smoky and sweet fruit on the nose, with a stony-mineral edge. Fresh, gently textured, fresh and mineral with a sweet red fruit character. An attractive, easy-drinking wine. 15.5+/20

Pithon-Paillé Bourgueil Coteau 2008: A négoce wine. A clay and limestone terroir, the fruit here is vinified in barrels at least 2 years old. The nose is more fragrant than that of Graviers, it having a much more typical Cabernet Franc perfume. Nicely textured on the palate, with a little substance to it and certainly some good structure. A nice wine which will benefit from a little time in the cellar I think. 16+/20