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Northern Rhône 2001
The recent Bibendum Rhône tasting was an excellent opportunity to make an initial assessment of the vintage. As the Rhône is best considered as two distinct wine regions, I commence my write-up with the wines of the northern appellations.
The northern appellations, in my opinion, have faired less well than their southern counterparts, but there are still many lovely wines to be found. The appellation leaders (such as Thierry Allemand in Cornas, and Jamet in Côte-Rôtie) have clearly made great efforts, and their wines were interesting and in the case of Jamet quite exotic. These wines clearly demonstrated the necessary structure for future development.
Many wines were good/very good, however, and this is my general view of the 2001 vintage for the northern part of the Rhône Valley. This is not 1999 over again. Many pleasing and worthy wines were made, which should not disappoint those who have purchased, but those who have not need not rush in. Only the top tier of producers have produced truly excellent wines. (12/3/03)
Northern Rhône 2001 - Tasting Notes
Tasted in March 2003. Click
to locate stockists.
Robert Niero Condrieu Les Ravines 2001: An aromatic, floral
nose, which also belies this wines exposure to oak (Niero matures a significant
proportion of this wine in oak, although admittedly not new oak, so its
presence is not overpowering). Full, soft, fat even, on the
palate, with some sweet almost tropical fruit. Correct acidity. Seems a touch
confected and awkward at present, but I suspect this may settle down with time
in bottle. Not really my style of Condrieu. 15/20
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Rene Rostaing Condrieu La Bonette 2001:
Moderate lemon
yellow. Fat yet floral fruit on the nose. Similar impression on the palate, with
rich characterful fruit, although somewhat low acidity. Not my style of Condrieu.
14.5/20
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Gilles Barge Côte-Rôtie
Cuvée Duplessy 2001: Not a huge depth
of colour. Also blackberry fruit, with a more spicy character, opening out to
offer roasted notes, herbs and a chewy edge. Quite some tannin on the palate,
with nice texture and weight. 16.5+/20
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Yves Cuilleron
Côte-Rôtie Terres Sombres 2001:
Better depth of colour here. Dusty, cherry fruit nose, with a roasted
character. Lovely fruit on the palate, some typicity, with a rounded texture and
good balance. Peppery finish. 16+/20
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JP & JL Jamet Côte-Rôtie 2001: Amazing colour, deep youthful
red. A powerful nose of smoky, macerated fruit. Served a little too cool, but
the structure shines through, as does the massive abundance of fruit. Smoky
edged complexity. Ripe tannins and correct acidity, all well balanced. 17.5+/20
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Robert Niero Côte-Rôtie 2001:
Moderate depth of colour with a
vibrant hue. Meaty fruit on the nose, which seems open, full and sweet. Good
fruit on the palate, although tannins and acidity are low. Overall it seems
soft, open knit, bordering on unstructured. 16+/20
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Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie 2001: Moderate depth
of colour. There's good typicity on the nose, which demonstrates the floral
Viognier-derived elements well. Full and round on the palate, with an excellent
depth of fruit. Decent tannins. Very good length. 17+/20
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Thierry Allemand Cornas Les Chaillots 2001:
An attractive glossy colour. Lovely depth of fruit on the nose although it
quickly closes down in the glass. It is rich yet balanced, elegant even, not the
powerhouse I expected. Nevertheless it is full with sweet fruit, ripe and spicy
tannins and firm acidity. 17.5+/20
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Thierry Allemand Cornas
Reynard 2001: A somewhat deeper colour here. The nose has great interest,
offering aromas of beef extract before it closes down. Big palate, with plenty
of sweet fruit, backed up by spicy tannins and matching acidity. This has the
necessary elements for development in bottle. Lovely firm finish. 17.5+/20
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Gilles Barge St Joseph Clos des Martinets 2001:
Moderate
depth of colour. Quite open and evolved on the nose, with ripe buttery,
fruit-crumble richness and vibrant blackberries with a slightly cooked edge.
Medium weight, appropriate tannins, acidity on the low side. Pleasing, for early
drinking. Value for money. 15+/20
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JL Chave St Joseph Offerus 2001:
Good depth of colour. A slightly plush character to the fruit on the nose. Sweet cherry and spice with a
confected edge, and a note of liquorice. Rounded texture and depth of fruit on
the palate, and little length. 16+/20
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Yves Cuilleron St Joseph Les Serines 2001:
Vibrant red hue but no great depth of colour. Cherry fruit on the nose.
Nicely balanced on the palate, bright cherry flavour, although overall somewhat
lean. 14.5+/20
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Yves
Cuilleron St Joseph L'Amarybelle Vieilles Vignes 2001:
Bright, garnet red hue, again no great depth. Chewy, slightly confected
cherry nose. Balanced, and some pleasing fruit. Lacks a bit of fat or texture.
15+/20
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Domaine de Colombier
Crozes-Hermitage Blanc Cuvée Gaby 2001: Good presence of white fruits on the
nose here, with fresh lemony notes. Full, soft and rounded on the palate. Some
cinder toffee notes on the finish indicative of some time in barrel. The acidity
is just sufficient and I would drink sooner rather than later. 15.5+/20
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Domaine de Colombier
Crozes-Hermitage Rouge Cuvée Gaby 2001: Nice depth of colour. A lovely nose,
evolved and open, full of fruit, with a perfumed edge. Soft and rounded texture
on the palate, with good fruit, and like the white acidity is just sufficient.
Should make pleasing short term drinking. 16+/20
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Philippe Desmeure
Crozes-Hermitage Blanc Cuvée Christophe 2001: A pale yellow wine, with a
vibrant hint of green. Pleasant white fruit with a hint of smoke and toffee.
Soft, full and ripe on the palate, nicely textured, with balanced acidity. 16+/20
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Philippe Desmeure
Crozes-Hermitage Rouge Cuvée Christophe 2001: A good depth of colour for the
appellation. Evolved and spicy nose, with plenty of fruit. Fairly tight on the
palate, with evident structure. Clean finish and a bit of length. 16+/20
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Domaine de Colombier
Hermitage 2001: Good colour. Full, rich and spicy on the nose, with evident
fruit. More structure and depth on the palate, with full body, vibrant fruit and
correct acidity. Moderate tannins will provide some staying power. 16.5+/20
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Philippe Desmeure Hermitage
Blanc Cuvée Emilie 2001: A deeper, lemon-yellow hue. Smoke and cinder
toffee nose. Served a little too cool, but evidently well made, with clean
structure and plenty of ripe, weighty fruit. Prominent acidity. Destined to
improve in the cellar. 16+/20
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Philippe Desmeure Hermitage
Rouge Cuvée Emilie 2001: A good colour, with moderate depth and a glossy
appearance. Smoky, macerated fruit on the nose, with a sweet, chewy edge.
Nevertheless it is full, balanced and elegant on the palate, with lovely berry
fruit and some typicity. Correct acidity, just on the firm side, and will
improve in the cellar. 17+/20
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