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Northern Rhône 1995

The 1995 vintage was a relief for the winemakers of the Rhône Valley, following on from four difficult vintages as it did. As I often say regarding this wine region, north and south are really two fairly distinct regions in their own right, and are best considered separately. This is demonstrated well in 1995, a year in which the vintage was extremely successful in the south, with the producers of Châteauneuf du Pape in particular turning out some excellent wines in need of cellaring, but in the north the vintage was not so straightforward.

The season started with coulure (failure of the fruit to set properly) and millerandage (failure of some young grapes to develop normally, on an otherwise healthy bunch). The result was some uneven development requiring care in the vineyard, and an inevitable reduction - a significant 20% - in the eventual crop. The vintage progressed well, however, with some lovely weather, warm but with just enough rain. In September, as the harvest neared, however, the weather began to dampen. Showery rainfall began one week into the month, and persisted for the next ten days. Wines that seem acidic and dilute may reflect grapes harvested during this time, as the winemakers panicked, fearing a repeat of 1994, when the entire month of September was wet. Those who delayed, however, were rewarded with warm weather throughout the remaining part of September and into October. Grapes harvested at this time were more concentrated, ripe (both with respect to sugars and physiology, ie. tannins) and the wines are much more successful as a result.

In short, this vintage should have provided many lovely wines. Tread carefully, though - like 1994 this is a vintage where the vignerons were troubled by harvest-time rain. The result will be a number of underperforming wines as a result of the conditions described above. Purchase after tasting, or taking advice, is my suggestion. (19/3/03)

Northern Rhône 1995 - Tasting Notes

Tasted in March 2003. Click to locate stockists:

Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage La Guiraude 1995: Corked. Not rated.

André Perret St Joseph Les Grisieres 1995: A garnet red hue, quite vibrant, but showing just a touch of maturity. Aromatic nose, with roasted fruits and violets. Richly bodied on the palate, full but fluid and balanced. Soft, integrated tannins and correct acidity. Lovely length. A surprise when the identity was revealed. Clearly punching above it's weight, and therefore good value. An impressive showing considering I thought this to be somewhat tired a year ago. 17/20

Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Les Varonniers 1995: A dark, inky, serious looking wine. Fantastic, expressive nose, loaded with dark, smoky fruit. Seems a touch light on entry, but it quickly fattens up through the midpalate. A big, structured wine, well integrated and balanced, although there is a firmness to the acidity. A weight of smooth, glossy fruit. Approachable now but really needs time - three years in the cellar. 19/20

Chapoutier Cornas 1995: A moderately dark, clearly maturing wine. Notes of smoke and meat on the nose, with a cinder toffee character denoting the use of new oak. Quiet ungiving on the palate. Rock-hard tannins and firm acidity, although there is a healthy presence of sweet, ripe, creamy fruit. Hard, tannic, drying finish. It may come together quite well I feel. Needs three to five years in the cellar. 16.5+/20

Jaboulet Cornas 1995: Good colour, a garnet red with a touch of maturity. The nose is full of spice and peppery fruit, but is not lush or overblown. Very fresh on the palate, with good acidity, although still somewhat backward, with firm tannins which come to dominate through the endpalate. Nice red fruits. Needs three years at least. 15.5/20

Jaboulet Cornas Domaine St Pierre 1995: A glossy and vibrant red-purple hue. A gorgeously aromatic, gamy nose, with a high-toned edge giving it a lift. There is a slight raisined, over-ripe quality to the fruit aromas. Like the basic bottling this too is very fresh on the palate, with good acidity, and it is still tannic, although there is enough substance to match. There is more texture, with a rounded, creamy quality, and sweet, slightly raisined fruit. Luscious and enjoyable but would benefit from two to three years in the cellar. 17.5+/20

Thierry Allemand Cornas Reynard 1995: A dark red-black hue. Sweet and intense fruit on the nose, with an edge of dark molasses and fine cigars. On the palate it shows real class, cool and balanced, with rich, macerated summer fruits. Fresh, correct acidity contributes towards the wines' handsome structure. Tremendous length. A massive, top class wine here. Has the substance to improve for at least five years in the cellar. 18.5+/20

Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie 1995: A fairly pale red colour, no great intensity, fading to a pink rim. Cinder toffee and vanilla notes on the nose surely denote the heavy use of new oak here. Doesn't have the substance on the palate to carry it off. Quite light, with red fruits, slightly prominent acidity, no tannic structure. Soft finish. A surprise, and a disappointment, when the label was revealed. It's character suggests it was harvested during the wet period, but Rostaing (who I met at the Bibendum 2001 Rhône tasting only last week) has a reputation for success in this vintage. 14/20

Gilles Barge Côte-Rôtie Cuvée du Plessy 1995: Showing clear maturity, with an earthy tinged rim around the deep red centre. Lovely nose. Very aromatic, perfumed, with violets, game and good fruit. An approachable structure, with soft tannins and fresh, harmoniously balanced acidity. Lovely texture. Drink now or hold. 17+/20

Jamet Côte-Rôtie 1995: A denser wine, yet still vibrantly coloured, but some fading maturity at the rim. Closed at first, but opens to reveal aromatic, rose petal nuances and lovely fruit. On the palate there are fresh, red fruits, correct acidity and good extract. A touch light on entry but develops weight through the midpalate. Clean and balanced. Short length. Starting to drink well. 17.5+/20

Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1995: Another impressive looking wine. A dark, glossy, black wine, fading to a deep-red mahogany tinge at the rim. The nose has luscious, smoky, game and meaty fruit. Massive weight on entry, sweet and rounded texture. Packed with fruit. Plenty of tannin, serious and balanced. Correct, firm acidity. This wine will go the distance. Needs five years in the cellar, at least. 18.5+/20