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Northern Rhône 1990
As with many regions of France - and indeed much of Europe - vintage conditions in the Northern Rhône were close to ideal in this vintage. Spring was mild, flowering was early (important as this may permit earlier harvest before the rains come) and the summer was hot, although not bakingly so. The harvest was indeed earlier than usual, beginning in mid-September.
Although all the Northern Rhône benefited, but it is the wines of Hermitage than seem to receive most praise. The top cuvées from the most lauded producers will age for decades. There were great successes elsewhere as well though, not least Crozes-Hermitage, St Joseph, Côte-Rôtie and Cornas, although the latter two appellations were to see even greater achievements the following year.
Quote of the evening, made in anticipation of tasting the wines: "the Clape should be memorable". Obviously speaking from experience? (9/5/01)
Northern Rhône 1990 - Tasting Notes
Tasted in May 2001. Click
to locate stockists.
Jaboulet St Joseph Le Grand Pompée 1990:
Big, ripe, almost minty nose, with raspberries and toffee. Another richly
textured wine, with again prominent berry fruits on the palate. Tannins more
integrated, though, and overall the wine is much more ready. 17.5+/20
Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage
Domaine de Thalabert 1990: This is a legendary Thalabert, probably the best
Jaboulet has ever produced. An interesting nose to open the flight - beef
extract, tea and vegetal aromas dominate. There is some classic grilled meat
aroma which soon blows off, as well as hints of charcoaled oak. Quite a tannic
palate, but fat and rich, with some forward acidic berry fruit showing.
Definitely some barbecued meat notes here. Lovely wine, still on the way up.
18+/20
Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage La Guiraude 1990: A richly
fruited yet elegant nose here, with some nuances of smoke, barbecues and
charcoaled meats. The palate has a superb tannic structure, and is quite
big and a touch austere. Prominent strawberry fruit, good acidity, and
more barbecued meats. Delicious stuff. 18/20
Robert Michel Cornas Cuvée des Coteaux 1990: A hard, iodine,
beef extract nose. A little thinner than the previous wines. Acidic
berry fruits on the palate, with more iodine and smoke. A touch harsh on
the finish. Some typicity suggests Cornas. 14/20
Jaboulet Cornas 1990:
A hard and austere nose, with just a hint of smoked meats, and some strawberry
fruit. Moderate tannins on the palate, with some toasty new oak. Quite
vivacious, upfront fruit. Typically Cornas. 16.5/20
Lionnet Cornas Cuvée Rochepertuis 1990: A strawberry and
toffee nose. A medium bodied palate, with a soft and round texture.
Smoky fruit and more smoked meats. Quite gentle tannins.
17/20
Auguste Clape Cornas 1990: Aromas of big and alcoholic fruit
here. Some touches of mint and coconut. The palate is stunning and stops
me in my tracks, and my brain switches back on. A superb and delicious
wine, elegantly balanced, with excellent fruit. Fine tannins. Finishes
so cleanly. 19/20
Delas Côte-Rôtie Seigneur du Maugiron 1990:
This wine has a surprisingly obvious caramel, toffee and coconut nose. Packed
with fat fruit on the palate, with lashings of new oak. Low acidity, integrated
tannins. No typicity here. There's plenty of effort gone into making this wine,
but no elegance as a result. 12/20
Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie
1990: This has a perfumed orange peel nose, perhaps a little more suggestive
of Côte-Rôtie, although it develops some funky, vegetal notes in the glass. On
the palate, however, this is another soft and rich wine which doesn't have the
elegance of this appellation at its best. Soft tannins. 14.5/20
Albert Belle Hermitage 1990: This is another big wine, with
beautiful toffee and spice fruit on the nose. Some tasters (myself
include) detect a hint of TCA with this wine, but it is quite subtle.
Rich, finely textured and full bodied on the palate, good supporting
tannins and excellent quality of fruit. A marvellous wine. Reminds me of
the Belle Hermitage 1990 we had last year! 18/20
Chapoutier Hermitage Monier
de la Sizeranne 1990: A somewhat stinky, vegetal nose here. Then the stacks and stacks of new oak hit
me. A big, austere wine, with lots of body but no hard tannins. Firm texture,
lovely fruit. The oak doesn't seem to dominate the palate as it does the nose,
but it is still there. 16.5+/20
