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Northern Rhône 1988
The years 1988-1990 were a triumvirate of successful vintages for the Northern Rhône although, as with Bordeaux, 1988 now stands third in line when analysing overall quality, trumped by 1990 and then 1989. Growing conditions were excellent and, other than hailstorms which pounded some of the vineyards of Côte-Rôtie, there was little to worry many of he winemakers.
Even with these difficulties the vintage produced some splendid Côte-Rôties. Other appellations also turned out excellent wines, although many vintage reports for the Northern Rhône 1988 vintage often criticise the wines for an excess of tannins. Certainly on tasting a number of wines of the 1988 vintage many do show, at fourteen years of age, some firm tannins still. But many - particularly the wines of Cornas and Hermitage - simply need much more time in bottle. (31/7/02)
Northern Rhône 1988 - Tasting Notes
Tasted in July 2002. Click
to locate stockists.
Jaboulet St Joseph Réserve Personelle
1988: A remarkably youthful, dense, red-purple appearance. Toffee oak on the
nose is a mark of this producer, but there is also plenty of raspberry fruit.
Plenty of fruity acidity on the palate, with lots of extract and tannin. Big and
lushly textured. 17/20
Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage La Guiraude 1988:
A slightly paler wine with a tawny hue. Some youthful characteristics on
the nose, with coffee and toffee aromas, alongside a floral and vegetal
seam. The palate, however, exhibits refined maturity, together with a
wonderful, creamy texture which has a silky edge. Firm fruit, peppery
acids and some good tannins. 18/20
Marcel Juge Cornas Cuvée 'C' 1988: This wine has a good colour, with a tawny hue.
Gloriously scented on the nose, with plentiful fruit, but also green
bell peppers and a touch of iron. Big, backward and tannic on the
palate, although with time in the glass it opens out to reveal powerful
fruit. The tannins are still packed in. Needs time. 17+/20
Alain Voge Cornas 1988: A red
wine, with just a tinge of tawny. Toffee and raspberry fruit on the
nose, with a tart, green edge typical of Voge wines. Plenty of acid on
the palate, which is medium bodied and has good fruit. Integrated
tannins. Nicely rounded. 16/20
Noel Verset Cornas
1988: A vibrant red hue. Pure fruit with a hint of toffee oak on the
nose here, with floral, aromatic, rose petal notes. Medium bodied on the
palate, and firm, although with a touch of sweetness and fat. Nicely
integrated tannins and good acidity. 18.5/20
Delas Côte-Rôtie Seigneur du Maugiron 1988:
Red wine with a tawny tinge. It still has plenty of fruit on the nose, with a
burnt edge and some treacle toffee notes. Full bodied on the palate, with plenty
of acidity. Lots of structure, nice tannins and good fruit. 16.5/20
Emile Champet Côte-Rôtie
1988: A very similar colour, perhaps a touch paler and a touch more
tawny. There's plenty of fruit on the nose, with aromas of rubber and
tar. Full and sweet on the palate, packed with fruit, and with a rich,
rounded and creamy texture. There's plenty of tannin and good acidity. 17.5/20
Jamet Côte-Rôtie
1988: A deep, youthful red-purple wine. A big and intense nose, with
coke and charcoal, fruit essence and toffee aromas. This is a massive
wine. The palate confirms this - massive, ripe, succulent tannins, with
liquorice, coal and rose petal flavours. Super acidity and plenty of
fruit. Fat and round, yet balanced. This is brilliant, amazing stuff. 18.5+/20
Guigal Hermitage 1988: A lovely depth of pure, fairly youthful colour
here. A classic nose, full of grilled meats and black fruits. Powerful yet
harmonious. A similar profile on the palate, which although still quite tannic,
has plenty of fruit, good acidity and a fat, rounded texture. This is lovely
stuff. 18/20
Chapoutier Hermitage Monier
de la Sizeranne 1988: A fairly pale, red-tawny wine. There are some high toned aromas, matched by
plentiful acidity on the palate. Nevertheless, it has a rounded, creamy texture,
and a powerful tannic kick on the endpalate. Good fruit. 16/20
