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The Wines of Navarra Part 2

My second and final instalment of this look at the wines of Navarra brings the spotlight to bear on the red wines. One might suppose that this is where Navarra's strength really lies, even though it has long been seen as a major source of thirst-quenching rosado. Nevertheless, despite the work of the local research unit EVENA which was established in Olite (the onetime capital of the Kingdom of Navarra) by the local government, and the arrival of foreign and not-so-foreign investment and expertise at a number of bodegas, such as Bodegas Ochoa (part of the Pol Roger portfolio) and Bodegas Valcarlos (part of the Faustino group) I feel there is still much to be achieved with the red wines.

To my palate the problem afflicting a large number of the reds on show was a lack of freshness to the fruit profile, with many of the wines displaying a rather muted fruit character very often with furry, feral, animalistic scents alongside. I suspect it may have much to do with the warm climate and the handling of the fruit after harvest, although I am by no means certain of this. I did find it telling, however, that two of the fresher, more attractive wines were from Bodegas Innurrieta, a new winery established in 1999 no doubt dripping with modern cellar equipment, and they were sourced from cooler vineyards at 400 and 500 metres above sea level. In addition, although historically the more southerly Ribera Baja (see my map of Navarra in part one) has been the most important region, in more recent years much of the new planting has been in the cooler vineyards in the more northerly regions.

I was also surprised to see how many of the wines featured large percentages of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, despite Garnacha accounting for something like 85% of the vineyard. I suspect much of the latter goes to making rosado, and with a push to increase quality it is not surprising to see these varieties, emulating Rioja to the south and west, and Bordeaux to the northeast, coming to the fore, from newly planted vineyards in some cases. Nevertheless variety alone is not sufficient to guarantee quality as my notes below should indicate. Get it right, though, as at Innurrieta and also Chivite, and the wines can make attractive and good value drinking. There is certainly much untapped potential in this region.

See part one for my notes on the white, rosado and sweet wines.(7/1/09)

The Wines of Navarra Part 2 - Tasting Notes

Tasted in November 2008. Click to locate stockists.

Red Wines

Bodegas Ada Minotauro Azul 2004: This is 50% Garnacha, 30% Tempranillo and 10% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It has an interesting nose of herby fruit, with a somewhat burnt edge. The palate kicks off quite cleanly, although fairly lean at first, but with some fairly full, ripe, solid tannins at the periphery. Slightly crunchy fruit, and a fresh finish with a bite of tannin and acidity. A decent wine. 15/20

Bodegas Ada Minotauro Rojo 2004: A blend of equal parts Garnacha and Tempranillo. A very different character on the nose here, all sweet fruit, mint and chocolatey oak. The palate is perhaps unsurprisingly soft and plump, with a ripe and chewy bed of tannin, and plenty more chocolate and tannin. Nevertheless there is a fairly taut, firm acidity. This is a very ripe style, but with some backbone. Interesting wine. 15.5/20

Bodegas Ada Minotauro Negro 2004: This wine, made fro the fruit of old Garnacha vines, is less open on the nose than the Rojo. It has a slightly meaty, complex nature, with rather more withdrawn fruit. It is also quite reserved on the palate, with a little flesh which fails to flatter. Underneath, however, lots of spicy grip, fairly bare tannins and a furry fruit character. Rather firm. Perhaps it needs more time. 15.5/20

Bodegas Camilo Castilla Montecristo Crianza 2005: A blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon, this has a nose of deep, rather feral fruit. Lean and furry on the palate, animalistic, with a fair concentration. There are some mildly chewy tannins beneath, and subtle acidity. But I find it lacks freshness and purity. 13/20

Bodegas Camilo Castilla Montecristo Reserva 2001: A blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon, but obviously with some bottle age here. This is evident on the nose, which has a maturing, roasted meat and black pepper nose, with notes of decay. In truth I find it somewhat appealing. The palate is gentle and composed, with a touch of chalky tannins and correct acidity. Rounded, soft, with some harmony, this is certainly drinkable. 15.5/20

Bodegas Campos de Enanzo Tempranillo 2007: This varietal wine has slightly tarry, feral fruit on the nose, characterised by crunchy blackberry but with a touch of smoky plumpness. Soft and rounded on the palate, with gentle, chalky tannins. Nice tannins giving a decent grip, and a soft feral-smoky flavour to the fruit. Fairly good, but again lacking freshness and definition. 14.5/20

Bodegas Campos de Enanzo Crianza 2003: This is equal parts Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose offers and interesting fruit profile, with plenty of lean and chalky redcurrant and raspberry character. There is some nice texture on the palate, with fresh red fruits that match the nose backed up by a fleshy texture and some fairly firm acidity. A touch chewy and certainly a substantial style, firm with some grip here. This is simple but certainly quite appealing. 15/20

Bodegas Campos de Enanzo Reserva 2002: Tempranillo accounts for 60% here, with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot. There is still some oak evident on the nose, but also some fairly well-lifted maturing fruit, with just a slightly diffuse style to it. Rounded, feral, mature fruit on the palate. This is quite substantial, showing a lot of tannic grip especially towards the finish. This is one that may develop with further bottle age I think. 15.5+/20

Bodegas Chivite Gran Feudo Crianza 2004: This is 70% Tempranillo with 25% Garnacha and a 5% splash of Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a lean and really rather steely nose, and doesn't seem to be showing a lot of fruit character today. The palate is unsurprisingly clean, straight up and really rather lean. There is more fruit character here than seen on the nose, and it has a fairly fresh character with just a touch of fur. Behind, soft tannins, and a little chewy at the finish. Overall, rather mean. 13.5/20

Bodegas Chivite Gran Feudo Reserva 2003: Tempranillo accounts for 80%, the rest is Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Again, not a lot being given away on the nose here, just a little dense, roasted, slightly meaty fruit. A very rounded substance at the start, denser, more spicy and chewier than many other wines, with lots of grip in the midpalate. Dense, chewy-cherry fruit through to the finish. Moderate acidity. An attractive wine. 15.5/20

Bodegas Chivite Gran Feudo Viñas Viejas 2003: A blend of 75% Tempranillo, 25% Garnacha and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot sourced from vines planted in the 1940s. This has a more interesting nose, of brighter and more perfumed fruit. Better definition on the palate too, clean and balanced, but still substantial. An attractive, well-rounded wine with good acidity which would repay a little cellaring. Good. 16+/20

Bodegas Chivite Colección 125 Reserva 2004: A blend of Tempranillo with Cabernet Sauvignon. Rather reserved fruit on the nose, with a little touch of rubber. Dense and more creamy in style, composed with sweet-savoury fruit. Nicely textured with ripe tannin, good grip and a full and appealing style. This is an attractive wine which should age nicely. 16.5+/20

Bodegas Inurrieta Mediodía 2007: This cuvée is pure Garnacha, and this shows through a little in the nose which first offers some meaty, red fruits, but there is also a very firm, smoky, flinty, gunpowdery element which is most unusual. There is some nice character on the palate, which has a little fat substance despite the overbearing stony-minerality. An interesting wine. 14/20

Bodegas Inurrieta Norte 2005: This is half Cabernet Sauvignon, half Merlot, which has seen five months in oak after fermentation. There is some dense although rather herby fruit on the nose. The palate has a good texture, creamy and full but also fresh. Underneath there is soft acidity but some good grip, especially in the midpalate, and on top of it all there is some nicely lifted berry fruit. A good wine. 15/20

Bodegas Inurrieta Sur 2005: Garnacha dominates here at 75% of the blend, with the remainder Graciano. It sees five months in French and American oak. The nose has some high-toned fruits, with a bright, berry-plum character, with just a slight animally taint. A nice flesh, quite creamy, with a good depth of dark fruits on the palate. Good grip, in fact a rather firm structure. 15/20

Bodegas Inurrieta Cuatrocientos 2005: A change in style here; this is 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, a selection sourced from a vineyard at 400m altitude and raised in oak from twelve months. Reserved and creamy fruit on the nose, rather dense but with a bright, cream and vanilla richness. The palate is quite attractive, stylish ripe fruit, soft but underpinned by a good tannic grip. Ripe, firm flavours, and a big tannic finish. An attractive wine. 16+/20

Bodegas Inurrieta Altos 2004: In a similar vein this is a selection of 50% each Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from a vineyard 500m above sea level. It is dense and organic on the nose, showing perfumed fruit, violets and some signs of early evolution. And appealing palate, bright raspberry and cherry fruit, with a dense and creamy midpalate. This is an attractive wine, and perhaps just has the edge on the Cuatrocientos. 16-16.5+/20

Bodegas Ochoa Garnacha Tempranillo 2007: Tempranillo dominates a little, with 60% of the blend. This young wine has a fairly subdued nose, with a slightly feral character. On the palate there is sweet raspberry fruit, a touch of confection, and some hard and chalky tannins and very firm acidity. Overall it has a coarsely rustic composition. Perhaps it will come together with a little more time? 13?/20

Bodegas Ochoa Graciano Garnacha 2005: A blend of equal parts. This has some good blackberry fruit on the nose, with a slightly creamy edge. Full and creamy on the palate, sweet and soft, with a nice depth of fruit. Bright, with a firm tannic structure underneath perhaps derived from the Graciano rather than the Garnacha. Ripe but with some nice acidity. A good style here.16/20

Bodegas Ochoa Tempranillo Crianza 2005: An attractive nose here, bright fruit, quite full and dense, reminiscent of blackberries and tar. Full but nicely balanced, creamy but bright, dense and tarry fruit, with the perfume of rose petals on the palate. This is appealing and really quite individual. It has a short finish, but is nevertheless certainly a good wine. 16+/20

Bodegas Ochoa Reserva 2001: Tempranillo 55%, Cabernet Sauvignon 30% and Merlot 15%. This has an obviously mature hue. The nose is really rather appealing, with some elegant, rusty, perfumed fruit presented in a quite pure fashion. The palate is lovely, fresh, gentle and also elegant, well composed, and still in possession of a little midpalate grip. Underneath, good grip and firm acidity. Overall a very attractive wine. 16.5+/20

Bodegas Prínipe de Viana Crianza 2005: This is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 20% Tempranillo. The nose has some rather dense and slightly rubbery fruit. The palate is very soft, not well defined, with low acidity and a few chalky tannins. Overall this feels unintegrated and disparate. 13/20

Bodegas Prínipe de Viana Reserva 2003: Here we have 60% Tempranillo, 25% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, which has seen 12 months in French and American oak before 24 months in bottle. The nose shows some dense fruit but overall it seems fairly withdrawn. The palate is soft, ripe and rounded, with a fairly dense structure beneath. The fruit is sweet, rich but rather one-dimensional, and the tannins rather chewy, but surely this has some potential for further development. Could be very good. 15.5+?/20

Bodegas Prínipe de Viana 1423 Reserva 2003: A special cuvée named for the year in which Charles III founded Viana. More Tempranillo here, 75%, with the remainder Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Garnacha. It sees 18 months in French oak then 24 months in bottle. There is a more elegant, perfumed edge to the fruit on the nose, although like the preceding wine it still has good fruit density. It is quite soft and diffuse on the palate, although there is clearly a lot of substance here. Rather chewy tannins, chalk-edged, ripe and rich. This also needs a little time. 15.5+/20

Bodegas Valcarlos Fortius Tempranillo 2006: This has a fairly pale, rather gentle hue and on the nose the suggestion of soft, plump fruits. The palate has strawberry fruit character, with a background presence of soft , round, peppery and slightly chewy tannins with a decent backbone of acidity. It has a nice little touch of grip. Simple, and for current drinking. 14.5/20

Bodegas Valcarlos Fortius Crianza 2004: This crianza is actually 100% Merlot, and this is reflected by the nose which has diffuse, soft and plummy fruit, with a rather mature, fruitcakey, macerated-dried fruit edge. The palate has a soft superficiality, which is quite attractive with nice acids and some grip, but underneath there is a coarse structure and a hot, slightly chewy finish. 13.5/20

Bodegas Valcarlos Fortius Reserva 1999: This wine, nudging ten years of age, is a blend of 70% Tempranillo and 30% cabernet Sauvignon. The nose is unsurprisingly mature, showing some fairly dense, evolved, meaty fruit characters. Polished fruit on the palate, which has some substance, and which has some firm acids underneath. Overall a nice backbone and good, grippy finish. Nice wine. 15/20

Bodegas Valcarlos Fortius Gran Reserva 1999: The same blend as the Reserva, despite the age this wine still has a lot of red pigment with maturity only evident at the rim. A somewhat furry-feral fruit character on the nose, a little baked too I think. The palate is quite gentle, with a nice flesh and substance to it though, with some good grip towards the end. Attractive, but the fruit here seems to lack the freshness seen on the Reserva. 15/20

Vinos y Viñedos Dominio Lasierpe Crianza 2005: This is 60% Tempranillo and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. An unusual nose here, a combination of toffee, burnt fruit and a lean and stony edge. The palate is soft, with bright, confected red fruits, although it shows some substance in the midpalate. A chewy structure here, peppery and slightly feral fruit, with more grip than expected. Interesting. 14/20

Vinos y Viñedos Flor de Lasierpe Garnacha Viñas Viejas 2005: this has dense fruit on the nose, a little rubber too. On the palate it has a soft and fleshy entry, a little cream later, and some midpalate spice. There are some chalk-edged berry fruits with plenty of firm acids at the core, at rather chewy tannins at the end. This is obviously a wine made with serious intent, and overall it is fairly nice. 16+/20

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